Island Life, Relaxing on Caulker

My arrival at Caye Caulker corresponded with Easter Sunday, and the island was full of weekenders from Belize City. This had the advantage of making the island much livelier than normal, though some of the trippers had clearly had been partying a little too heavily, as a few arguments were breaking out in shops, some with other tourists.

By nightfall, however, a large number had returned home, and the island began to take on a much more laid-back feel. Thus, the true nature of the island was revealed. You come here to relax and partake in the wide variety of water-based activities on offer. This is not a party destination, although a quite lively crowd hangs out at Herbal Tribe at weekends or at the Barrier Reef Sports Bar during the week. Take a coffee in the art gallery opposite and admire the fine, original work on offer. (Try the Bizarre I and I Reggae Bar, where there are no bar stools, just swings.)

This is a small island just 7km long and 800m wide, with no natural beach, though it is perfectly possible to relax on the sandy strip where most of the boat jetties are based. There are no cars here, and if transport is required at all, locals use bikes or beach buggies to get around.

There is wide choice of restaurants in the village. I particularly liked Bamboo, where they were kind enough to cook up a large fish a friend had caught earlier in the day, and served it with a delicious coconut rice. For breakfast, there is nowhere like Glenda’s, a beautiful Belizean house. You may have to wait to share a table, but it’s a great place to meet people.

Snorkeling opportunities were limited by a strong wind when I was there. Carlos’s tours came highly recommended, and I would have joined them, but trips were off on the day I planned to go.

The Island has its fair share of characters. Local artist Popeye, no connection with the restaurant of the same name, produces some quite offbeat work, which makes a nice souvenir. Another Rasta guitarist circulates with his hopelessly out-of-tune guitar. It does not diminish his enthusiasm. It’s all Caye Caulker: unique, peaceful, and utterly charming.

Quick Tips:

You can get to the island by water taxi from Belize City ( single) or even fly from Belize International if you want to arrive in style ( single, but it saves a taxi to the port).

Best Way To Get Around:

Simply walk. It will take approximately 10 minutes to walk from one end of the village to the other. The airport is another 10 minutes south.

This highly recommended accommodation, a 5-minute walk from the centre of the village, does not disappoint. Situated 1 block back from the sea, it is a lovely place to relax and chill out.

This is defiantly not a party place, as Owner Doris likes her guests to be quiet and respectful to others. Consequently, you are guaranteed to have a peaceful stay. Party animals go elsewhere please. There is a nice garden area where guests can mingle before venturing out on the town and an Internet facility, and you can receive Doris’s expert advice on the area always at hand.

Rooms are spotlessly clean and well furnished, with a fridge, good bathroom, and cable TV. The suites, though, would have benefited from a food preparation area to assemble a packed lunch or two.

As the rest of the property was sold out, I paid extra for one of the spacious suites on the top floor. It was worth the extra for a couple great views and your own private balcony to enjoy the sunsets.

See the website at http://www.treetopsbelize.com/contact.html

This is a classic wooden Belizean home. You eat in one of three small dining rooms after having placed your order with the kitchen. Open for breakfast from 7am. (closes 3pm, after lunch). Choose from homemade fresh juices, coffee, cinnamon rolls, and egg staples with ham or bacon.

It's a lovely atmosphere, and you will end up sharing a table with others as the owners try to squeeze as many people in as possible. You will soon be exchanging ideas and experiences with other travelers.

The pick of the breakfast options.