South Carolina: Battleground of Freedom

South Carolina was the scene of over 200 Revolutionary War battles, some of which are considered to have been the turning point of the war, causing the British to surrender. Many colorful characters, such as Francis Marion, Thomas Sumter, and Andrew Pickens became legends here. They proved to be too much to handle for Great Britain's Lord Cornwallis and Major Banastre Tarleton. Because of the state's role in the war, Mel Gibson's movie "The Patriot" was filmed exclusively in South Carolina.

My tour of South Carolina's Revolutionary War sites extended from Beaufort at the southern tip of the state, to Ninety-Six in the northwestern corner. Not only is this state chock-full of history, it also has some fine natural scenery. While you are discovering the exploits of Patriots, Tories, Continentals, and Regulars, enjoy the ride. Fortunately for you, it should be much more pleasant than the visit that Cornwallis and Tarleton had, over 220 years ago. This journal is the first of a two-part series. It covers sites located in South Carolina's lowcountry, or the part of the state that is south and southeast of Columbia. Part 2 will cover the upcountry.

Quick Tips:

Please give yourself at least 2-3 weeks to thoroughly enjoy this tour. You could actually spend much longer than that. Check out www.discoversouthcarolina.com for additional information on all sites. All state welcome centers have adequate information on accomodations, and can also provide you a good road map, which will be essential for this trip. Car rentals are available at major airports in Greenville, Columbia, and Charleston. Before making the trip I suggest reading the following books: The Road to Guilford Courthouse by John Buchanan and Touring South Carolina's Revolutionary War Sites by Daniel Barefoot.

Best Way To Get Around:

This trip cannot - I repeat, CANNOT - be done without a vehicle. Most all sites, however, will require some amount of walking to thoroughly enjoy them. You may consider doing this trip in an RV. South Carolina has an excellent state park system whose campgrounds all have full hookups (electric and water). There are campgrounds located near most all sites on this trip.

Construction on this old church began in 1745 and was completed about 10 years later. It was originally known as Prince William's Parish Church, and many of the prominent local planters were members. As the colonies began to rebel against England, many of the same men became very loyal to the patriot cause. After the war began, they used the church as a storehouse for gunpowder and weapons to be used against the British. In 1779, a group of local Tories (American colonists loyal to England) got word that the church was being used for this purpose and burned it. It would not be rebuilt until 1826. Unfortunately, when Sherman and his Union troops made their way into South Carolina in 1865, it was burned again, never to be reconstructed.

Today, all that stands of the old church are four brick columns and four exterior brick walls containing arched windows and doors. It stands as a true testament to the hardships and warfare that this state has experienced over its 300-year history. The cemetery contains the graves of those brave men who stood for freedom and independence, as well as many others who later followed their example. Several of the tombstones date to before 1700, making them some of the oldest in the state.

This site is just ruins now. However, on a clear morning, when the sun's ray burst through the large, moss-draped live oaks and illuminate the old church, you will not find a more beautiful sight to behold anywhere.

It's a little out of the way, but well worth the drive. Just park across the road and enter through the wrought iron gate. This is a really nice place for a picnic, but even if you forgot your lunch, a visit to this place is always awe-inspiring.

From the town of Jacksonboro, travel 2 miles north on SC-64 and look for a historical marker on the right. Turn right onto a dirt road, and you will see the tomb on Isaac Hayne. Hayne served as a South Carolina senator from 1778 to 1780. After the British captured Charleston in 1780, Hayne pledged allegiance to the British to avoid separation from his sick wife. When the British tried to force him to take up arms against his countrymen, he refused and rejoined the patriot army. Unfortunately, he was soon captured by the British and hanged in Charleston on August 4, 1781. His friends and compatriots buried him at this site, near his home, and vowed to avenge his death. Thus, Hayne became a martyr for the patriot cause.

After visiting Hayne's Tomb, continue down the dirt road until you see the ruins of an old church on your right. This is Pon Pon Chapel, also known as Burnt Church. John Wesley once preached at this church, originally constructed in 1726. The church burned twice, however, the second time the damages proved too severe to repair.

Continue down the dirt road a short distance further, the Edisto River comes into view, and you can see what remains of some old earthworks. These are believed to date from a battle fought here on August 30, 1781, when British cavalry attempted to destroy a supply depot here. They were unsuccessful, as Francis Marion's troops defeated them and chased them back toward Charleston.
This site may be difficult to locate. Locals in the area are very friendly and will know exactly what you are talking about if you ask.

This park, managed by the South Carolina State Park Service, preserves and interprets the ruins of Dorchester, a colonial village. Settled by Congregationalists from Dorchester, MA, this village was once the third largest town in South Carolina. Because of its proximity to the Ashley River and to Indian trade paths, Dorchester prospered as a trade and distribution center. Some merchants became wealthy here by trading downriver to Charleston. The town was also home to many craftsmen, such as carpenters, tailors, and blacksmiths. St. George's Parish Church was constructed in 1752, and its large bell tower became the town's most recognizable landmark. A tabby (cement made from sand and oyster shells) fort was built to protect the village from hostile Indians and French and Spanish invaders from the south. By the time of the Revolution, the frontier has shifter farther inland, better roads were built to connect the backcountry to Charleston, and the area's soil had become less fertile. Because of this, many of Dorchester's residents moved south into the Savannah area.

In 1775, Francis Marion had a powder magazine built inside the wall of the tabby fort. The British captured the fort in 1780, but Nathaniel Greene forced them to abandon it in 1781. While the British were retreating, they destroyed most structures in the town. All that remains of it today is the St. George's bell tower, the fort's tabby walls, and a log wharf in the river, which is visible at low tide.

The 325-acre park offers an interpretive trail with wayside kiosks detailing the history of the village. A gift shop offers visitor guides and other materials relating to the colonial period. Picnic shelters are available, as is a nature trail that meanders along a small creek. Living history programs and reenactments are held here on a regular basis. Visitors may also assist staff in archaeological digs during weekend programs. The park is open daily from 9am to 6pm. Admission is $2/adult. For more information, go to www.southcarolinaparks.com.

Constructed in 1741, this is the home of the Middleton family, prominent rice planters. Henry Middleton was President of the First Continental Congress, and his son, Arthur, was a signer of the Declaration of Independence. Middleton Place is also the home of America's oldest landscaped gardens. They are modeled after the formal gardens of Europe from the 17th century. It took 100 slaves over 10 years to complete the gardens. The site features landscaped terraces leading down to the Ashley River, butterfly lakes, a rice mill, and pond, stableyard, and wide assortment of plants and trees, including azaleas, camellias, and live oaks. One live oak in particular is the Middleton Oak, which is over 1,000 years old. In the stableyard, living historians demonstrate various crafts, and domesticated animals such as sheep and chickens roam free.

African-American plantation life is also detailed at Eliza's House, a former slave cabin where some of the ex-slaves continued to live for many years after they were freed. The Middleton House was burned by Yankee soldiers in 1865; however, the south wing was spared. The family resided in this structure after the war, and it still stands today. Guided tours of the house are given daily. Inside, visitors will see silver, china, furniture, artwork, and various other momentos belonging to the Middletons. Among these is a silk copy of the Declaration of Independence which belonged to Arthur Middleton. Arthur is buried in the gardens, and his tomb is part of the self-guided garden tour. Middleton Place was also a filming site for The Patriot.

A restaurant located on the property serves traditional lowcountry dishes. It's a little pricey but very good. It takes about 2.5 hours to thoroughly take in the whole place. The grounds are open daily from 9am to 5pm. Adult admission to the gardens and stableyard is $20 for adults but only $5 for children (7-15). The house tour is an additional $10. You can get a good value by purchasing a combination ticket, which includes both Middleton Place and the Edmonston-Alston House (located downtown on the Battery). For more information, visit www.middletonplace.org.

Located a few miles downriver from Middleton Place on 125 acres is Drayton Hall, home of the prominent Drayton family. Constructed in 1742, this Georgian Palladian treasure is now owned by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. John Drayton, who built the house, was a member of England's Royal Council. However, his son, William Henry, became a radical revolutionary and ardent supporter of independence from England. He would rise to become a powerful congressman and Chief Justice of South Carolina.

On March 29, 1780, British soldiers and Hessian (German) Jagers would sail down the Ashley River and come ashore at Drayton Hall. From this approach, they would lay siege to Charleston and occupy the city, taking over 3,000 patriots prisoner.

One of the finest examples of colonial architecture in the United States, Drayton Hall is the only Ashley River plantation to survive the Yankee Invasion of 1865. According to legend, John Drayton told Union soldiers that the house was serving as hospital for smallpox victims. They believed him, and the house was spared.

The mansion remained the property of the Drayton family for seven generations. It has never been modernized with electricity, plumbing, or other modern conveniences. It appears exactly as it would have 200 years ago, albeit without furnishings or artwork of any kind. The tours here focus on the architecture of the house. The plasterwork and molding, mostly done by slaves, are very impressive. One thing I found interesting outside of the house is the pond, which sits about 100 yards in front of it. If you look at the pond from just the right angle, you can see a reflection of the house. Give yourself at least an hour to enjoy the house, grounds, and gift shop. Drayton Hall is open daily from 10am to 4pm. The house tour is $12. Admissions for the grounds is only $3, but I would not recommend missing out on the wonderful house tour. For additional information, visit www.draytonhall.org.

This fort, originally made of palmetto logs, was built in 1776 to defend Charleston Harbor against the British. The fort, named after its first commander William Moultrie, was not yet completed when the British attacked on June 28, 1776. The palmetto logs proved to be impenetrable, as the British shots were simply absorbed into the spongy wood. The outnumbered patriots were well-protected by the fort's walls, while returning continuous rounds of fire that were devastating to the British ships. After a nine-hour siege, the British were unable to capture the fort or advance closer to Charleston. Discouraged British commanders decided to take the fight back to George Washington in the north. They would not return to Charleston for four more years. This was one of first decisive patriot victories of the American Revolution.

Because of its contribution to the victorious battle, the patriots began employing the palmetto tree into the design of the South Carolina flag. It would also later become the official state tree.

The present structure, the third on the site, was constructed in 1809. It played an important role in the Confederate defense of Charleston Harbor during the Great Yankee Invasion. I was surprised that the fort was still being used as a coastal defense station, as late as World War II. It was also interesting to learn that Edgar Allen Poe was once stationed here (I didn't know he was ever in the military) and wrote "The Gold Bug" during his stay.

Today, the fort stands as a monument to the memory of those brave patriots who repulsed the British in 1776 and a great place to learn about 18th and 19th Century coastal warfare. The fort's 15-foot walls surround 1.5 acres, and its full armament was made up of 500 men and 40 guns. A visitors center houses exhibits about the fort's history and shows a brief film. The fort is open daily from 9am to 5pm. Admission to the Visitors Center is free, but it costs $3/adult to enter the fort itself. For additional information, check out www.nps.gov/fomo.

This National Park Service property is the site of Snee Farm, developed in 1698 as part of a royal grant. In 1754, the 700-acre property was purchased by the wealthy Pinckney family. Indigo, rice, cotton, and vegetables were grown here, and the plantation was staffed by a large number of slaves.

Charles Pinckney was one of the early residents of Snee Farm. At the age of 22, Pinckney was elected as a member of the South Carolina General Assembly. He served bravely as an officer in the Continental Army during the Revolutionary War. Pinckney would also go on to serve four terms as governor of South Carolina, four years as U.S. Ambassador to Spain, as well as seats in the state and national legislatures. However, he is best known by far as a drafter and signer of the U.S. Constitution.

Today, only 28 acres of Snee Farm remain. The house, which serves as the Visitors Center, was built in the 1820s, after Pinckney had sold the property. Interpretive displays tell about the history of the farm, the Pinckney family, the daily working of an 18th-century plantation, and the African-American slaves who lived at Snee Farm. Archaeological remnants of some of the original brick structures are still visible. The park is open daily from 9am to 5pm. Admission is free. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/chpi.

Located on the banks of the Santee River, this former rice plantation encompasses 322 acres. Constructed around 1735, it is home to several prominent families, such as the Horry, Pinckney, and Rutledge families. Originally consisting of only six rooms, the house was expanded several times. Notable additions included a large, two-story ballroom and several large bedrooms. During the Revolution, this house served as refuge for many of the area's residents.

Much like Drayton Hall, the house is unfurnished and tours focus on the architecture and construction of the house. The grounds feature camellia gardens and the remains of old rice fields. Famous 18th-century visitors included George Washington, Francis Marion, and Marquis de Lafayette. The white facade and columns of the house must have been extremely impressive to 18th-century visitors, much as they are to tourists today. The last resident of the house was Archibald Rutledge, poet laureate of South Carolina. Upon Mr. Rutledge's death, he deeded the property to the state of South Carolina so that its history could be preserved for many more generations.

The park grounds are open free of charge Thursday through Monday from 9am to 6pm. Guided tours of the mansion are given Thursday through Sunday from 1pm to 4pm. Admission to the mansion costs $3/adult. For more information on Hampton Plantation, visit www.southcarolinaparks.com.

Constructed in 1740, Hopsewee is located directly across the Santee River from Hampton Plantation. Built from local black cypress, its white clapboard siding, black tin roof, and black shutters give it a unique appearance.

Hopsewee was the home of Thomas Lynch, a South Carolina delegate to the Continental Congress who played an important role in creating the Continental Army in 1776. His son, Thomas Lynch, Jr., a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born at Hopsewee on August 5, 1749.

The interior of the house is furnished with 18th- and 19th-century antiques. Among the very impressive interior architectural features are the staircase and the mouldings. This house is rare in that it is a preservation instead of a restoration. It has never been allowed to fall into disrepair and appears much as it would have when the Lynches lived here. Also, unlike many historical houses, every room is open to the public, including the attic and the cellar.

There are a couple of slave cabins on the grounds with information about the African-Americans who lived here, as well as a nature trail that goes along beside the river. If you choose to explore the grounds, please make sure you wear insect repellent. This plantation's location near the river makes it a prime spot for mosquitoes, deer flies, and no-see-ums. When we were there, we were nearly eaten alive!

The plantation is open Tuesday through Friday from 10am to 4pm. A $5/vehicle parking fee is charged for the grounds. House tours are an additional $8/adult. For more information, call 843/546-7891.

Born in the South Carolina lowcountry to a French Huguenot family, Francis Marion would become one of the Revolutionary War's greatest heroes. Known as the Swamp Fox, Marion revolutionized warfare, using guerilla tactics that he learned from the PeeDee Indians.

Francis Marion served under William Moultrie during the Cherokee Indian wars of the mid-1700s. After the Revolutionary War began, he served under Moultrie again. He was present at the Battle of Charleston Harbor in 1776, when the British were repulsed by the garrison of the palmetto log fort. In 1780, when the British captured Charleston, Marion fled into the backcountry. He gathered up friends and neighbors from throughout the lowcountry to help protect the area from the invaders. He became a thorn in Cornwallis' side, often disrupting British supply lines by leading surprise attacks from the swamps. Marion became a legend among both the British soldiers and the colonists. Many British soldiers swore that he was some sort of apparition. Both dashing and daring, Marion was never captured, nor was his hideout at Snow Island discovered. Mel Gibson's character in The Patriot is loosely based on Francis Marion. A historical marker and monument now stands on the site of Marion's tomb, located near his brother's plantation, Belleview.

Born in Virginia, Thomas Sumter moved to South Carolina in 1750. At the outbreak of the American Revolution, he rallied patriots in the Santee region to defend their homes against the British. Earning the nickname of "The Gamecock", Sumter became a tough foe for the British regulars. He played a prominent role in most of the major battles fought in South Carolina. After the war, he served as both a Congressman and Senator for the state. He also founded the village of Stateburg, where he lived, hoping it would be made the state capital of South Carolina. Columbia was chosen instead. A monument honoring Sumter is located near his tomb in Stateburg. Nearby, High Hills Baptist Church (ca. 1770) is the second-oldest Baptist congregation in the state. The Borough House, a private residence built in the 1750s, served as headquarters to both Lord Cornwallis and General Nathaniel Greene at different points in the war. It is not open to the public.

Established in 1711, Beaufort is the second-oldest city in South Carolina. It has a very large downtown historic district, known as Old Point, which includes several structures predating the Revolution. This wonderful historic city is a quieter and less crowded alternative to its neighbors in Charleston and Savannah. This area has flown under several different flags. The Spanish first settled here in 1520, naming their settlement Santa Elena (present-day site of Parris Island Marine Base). Then came the French in 1562, and finally the British, in the late-1600s. Walking tours and carriage tours of the historic district are available. With its nice sea breezes and crooked streets, shaded by ancient live oaks, this city makes you feel like you have travelled backwards in time. Scenes from Forrest Gump, among many other movies, have been filmed here.

The Beaufort Museum, housed in the 1799 Arsenal building, contains two brass cannons which were seized from the British in 1779, among other Revolutionary War artifacts. It is located at 713 Craven Street and open Monday through Saturday from 11am to 4pm. Admission is $2/adult.

St. Helena's Episcpopal Church was founded in 1712, but the present structure was not constructed until 1724. It is one of the oldest churches in America. Among the graves in its cemetery are those of two British officers, killed at the nearby Battle of Port Royal. St. Helena's is open for tours Monday through Friday from 10am to 4pm. Tours are free.

Beaufort has quite a few very nice bed-and-breakfasts, housed in historic structures. Nearby Hunting Island State Park has year-round camping and provides beach access, hiking trails, and rental cabins. A 19th-century lighthouse, available for climbing, and an interpretive center, with displays about natural aspects of the area, are also in the park. Beaufort is known for its thriving seafood industry. Shrimp boats in the local creek have become synonymous with the area. Many local restaurants offer fresh seafood, as well as local fare, such as lowcountry boil and frogmore stew. For more information on Beaufort and its surrounding areas, go to www.beaufort.com.

Settled during the late 17th century, Charleston served as South Carolina's colonial capital. The state's oldest and best-preserved city still retains much of its 18th-century character, as a large number of structures from that time period are still intact. One of America's largest cities and busiest ports during the colonial era, Charleston became very involved in the movement for independence from England. Charlestonians violently protested the Stamp Act, Tea Act, and others passed down by British parliament. Like the more famous one in Boston, Charleston had its own tea party. However, instead of dumping all of the tea into the harbor, the savvy Charlestonians sold the tea and later used the proceeds to fund the war effort against England. The tea was hidden in the cellar of the Exchange Building (ca. 1771). The Old Exchange, known as South Carolina's Independence Hall, was the site of many protests and where the colony elected delegates to the First Continental Congress, as well as declared independence from England. After the British took control of Charleston in 1780, they used the cellar of this building as a dungeon to imprison patriots, such as Isaac Hayne. The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon is open daily for tours from 9am to 5pm. Admission is $7/adult. Check it out at www.oldexchange.com.

St. Michael's Episcopal Church (ca. 1751) is located at the intersection of Meeting and Broad Streets. Its 186-foot-tall steeple has been a very recognizable part of Charleston's skyline for over 250 years. The clock tower and chimes have been active since 1764, except for a short period during the Revolution. During the British occupation of the city, the bells were taken down and sent to England as a war prize. After the war, they were returned. The interior of the church is very elaborate and well worth a look. It's free, so why not? The Heyward-Washington House (ca.1772), at 87 Church Street, was home to Thomas Heyward, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. However, the house's major claim to fame is that George Washington stayed here during a visit to the city in 1791. The house still includes many of the original furnishings made by 18th-century artisans right here in Charleston. The original kitchen is also still intact and housed in a separate building (to prevent house fires), as are the servants’ quarters. A formal garden includes plants that would have been found here during the 18th century. House tours are given Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm. Admission is $8/adult. For more info, visit www.charlestonmuseum.com.

The Old Powder Magazine (ca. 1712), on Cumberland Street, stored munitions for the city's defense against French, Spanish, Indians, and pirates. It is one of Charleston's oldest structures and is preserved by the Historic Charleston Foundation. During the Revolution, it served both the patriots and the British, depending upon which occupied the city at the time. Various artifacts from the 18th century, such as clothing, furniture, and weapons, are displayed. Built of stuccoed brick, its red tile roof reminds me of Spanish Renaissance architecture. A wrought iron fence surrounds a courtyard with colonial-era British flags. Open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm. Admission is free, but there is a donation box at the door. Visit www.historiccharleston.org. For more information on the beautiful historic city of Charleston and its surrounding areas, visit www.charlestoncvb.com.

Founded in 1729, Georgetown is South Carolina's third oldest city. I find it ironic that the town was named after King George II, but would become a hotbed for rebellion against him during the Revolutionary War. Located on Winyah Bay and the Sampit River, it made an ideal port for shipping rice and indigo to England. During the war, its port was blockaded by British ships. Somehow, Marquis de Lafayette and Baron de Kalb were able to land at North Island in 1777 anyway. These Europeans would both go on to make significant contributions to the patriot war effort. In 1780, the British captured and occupied Georgetown. However, they were never able to live comfortably, as Francis Marion was constantly harassing them, staging daring raids from the swamps outside of town.

Today, the town is still an important port, but steel and paper have replaced rice and indigo as the main exports. A large historic district includes several dozen pre-Revolutionary structures, and many 18th-century rice plantations still exist in the outlying areas. The Rice Museum, located in the old clock tower on Front Street, includes dioramas and artifacts about the history of these plantations and their impact on the town's development and culture. It is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 4:30pm.

The Kaminski House, overlooking the Sampit River, was constructed in 1769 by Paul Trapier, a leader of the local patriot movement. It contains a large collection of 18th- and 19th-century antiques and only costs $2/adult for a tour. Prince George Winyah Episcopal Church was built in the 1740s and named for the Prince of Wales, who later became King George II. The church, located on Broad Street, was made from materials imported out of England. The stained-glass window behind the altar was English-made. The box pews are typical of the era. Several Revolutionary War soldiers are buried in the cemetery. The church is open to the public, Monday through Friday from 11:30am to 4:20pm. There is no admission fee. For more information on this historic port city, visit .