Big D

Sure, you're going to hit Dealey Plaza, where President Kennedy unfortunately was assassinated, and the Sixth Floor Museum, which is dedicated to that tragedy, and you're going to go to the cavernous malls that are plentiful. You might even venture out to the suburbs and visit Southfork Ranch, home of J.R. Ewing. But there's a lot more to Dallas than this. It also boasts a world-class symphony in one of the most acoustically perfect and beautiful symphony halls (the I.M. Pei-designed Meyerson Symphony Center); a vibrant arts scene in the SoHo-like Deep Ellum district; outdoor fun sailing on or biking/rollerblading around White Rock Lake; a vibrant independent cinema community; loads of places for live music (seriously, better than Austin's); the largest Ferris wheel in the Western Hemisphere and the largest collection of Art Deco buildings in Fair Park; and food, food, food. Dallas is a dining mecca, with more restaurants per capita than New York City. But once you see that famous skyline, you're sure gonna start humming the theme from "Dallas." I lived there for 20 years; I still do.

Quick Tips:

As you might expect, it's going to get hot in the summer time. My suggestion: Don't go in August. But Dallas in the spring and fall is gorgeous -- temperatures are warm and pleasant. October is a great month to visit, as you can visit the State Fair of Texas, the largest state fair in the country, and perhaps take in a football game -- the universities of Texas and Oklahoma duke it out at Fair Park each October, and of course there's the world-famous Dallas Cowboys (and their cheerleaders) in the fall. In the spring, there's the great Dallas Blooms festival at the Dallas Arboretum featuring gorgeous flowers and plants and live music from the Dallas Symphony.

The best place to find out what's going on is GuideLive from The Dallas Morning News, which you can find at www.guidelive.com. In addition, pick up the free Dallas Observer tabloid at various locations around town for band listings, art shows, cinema, etc.

Best Way To Get Around:

For the most part, you're going to need to rent a car. There is public transportation (Dallas Area Rapid Transit, or DART), including an extensive bus system and a great light-rail system, but there is so much to do in Dallas -- and in the larger metropolitan area -- that having your own wheels would help greatly. If not, you can still get to some major sights via light rail, and even to downtown Fort Worth via the Trinity Railway Express commuter train. (See www.dart.org for more info.)

What can I say about Chef Chris Ward that many of the nation's critics haven't said already? Ward's creative cuisine has been tickling Dallas taste buds for awhile, and everyone else is catching on. Chris Ward is a hot property in Dallas cuisine, but he still starts every day at this, his first restaurant.

It's easy to miss The Mercury Grill, sitting there in its nondescript strip mall in northern Dallas, wedged between a Starbucks and a Tuesday Morning discount store. But don’t be fooled by its austere location – this is a five-star dining experience. It opened to insanely good reviews about 7 years ago – it was named Restaurant of the Year in 1998 – but, luckily, the quality has not suffered as the spotlight has waned.

Ward’s cooking is New American and informed through his childhood in the American South, particularly some of his mom’s recipes – be sure to try "My Mother's Wedge of Romaine." For appetizers, the crisped fois gras is one of Ward’s specialties. You won’t go wrong with any of his entrées, but I would recommend the pork tenderloin with mushroom ragout (if it’s currently on the menu; he rotates often) or the pepper-crusted tuna mignon.

I’ve always been impressed by the level of service at this restaurant. Somehow, the waiters have a sixth sense about them – they know just when to come by and check on you and just when to leave you alone to enjoy your meal and company.

I can’t say enough about The Mercury Grill – hands down, it’s one of the best places to enjoy a meal that I’ve ever experienced.

When I lived in Dallas, this was my neighborhood bar. You could find me there every Sunday afternoon on the patio sipping on a Shiner Bock. Alas, I don't live there anymore, but when I'm in town, you bet I make a beeline for "the P." (It was originally called the "Stoneleigh Pharmacy," until The Man cracked down.)

It's the site of a former pharmacy, hence the wall decorations. The wait staff is very friendly, and in a short time, you'll all become friends (if you go, say hi to Lisa for me and tip her well). There are a lot of regulars who frequent this joint, and if you go, you'll see why. They have cheap beer, strong drinks, and a killer jukebox. On the weekends, there's live music. And there's a magazine rack for your reading pleasure. Yes, they sell them.

The P has one pool table and only one television, along with one pinball machine -- so a sports mecca it ain't. It's just a place to sit and drink with friends. And the food's good, too -- the Stoneleigh P Burger is phenomenal, a patty with served with provolone cheese, garlic mayo, and Creole mustard on a pumpernickel bun. Mmmmm! The nachos leave a bit to be desired, but I'm particular about my nachos.

The P can get crowded on weekend nights, but during the day, it's a nice place to relax and unwind. I've been there midday for brunch, for happy hour, and at night -- sometimes all in the same day.

It's on Maple Avenue at Wolf, across the street from the Stoneleigh Hotel. There is a limited parking lot attached to the building, but it's on the bus line, too.

Website: www.stoneleighp.com

My first trip to the Sixth Floor Musem was, eerily enough, on July 16, 1999 -- the same day John F. Kennedy Jr. was killed in a plane crash.

No doubt that added to the emotions and the experience of visiting this museum that is dedicated to the life and tragic death of his father, President John F. Kennedy.

Dallas has always had a scar across its name because of the events of November 22, 1963. But the city has rebounded and accepted its place in history. No better place showcases this than the Sixth Floor Museum.

The museum, which is housed in the old Texas Schoolbook Depository where Lee Harvey Oswald allegedly perched to shoot the president, is more than just a museum about Kennedy's assassination. You'll see exhibits on the social and political situation in the early 1960s and the reasons behind his ill-fated trip to Texas in 1963.

The highlight of the tour is the "corner window," where Oswald stood. It has been made up to look like it probably did that day in November. Also, you can see a scale model of Dealey Plaza that the Warren Commission used in its investigation.

Audio tours are available (in English, Spanish, Japanese, French, German, Italian, and Portuguese), or you can just walk through. Group tours for more than 20 can be arranged.

The museum is located in the West End historic district, which is accessible on DART's light rail (red and blue lines, West End Station) and the Trinity Railway Express (Union Station).