Chao Ban Vietnam!!

Hanoi, the land between the rivers, may yet live up to its old name as given to it by King Ly Thai To: he called it the ascending dragon, and if anything, this city is certainly on the rise. Here are some ways to optimize your stay here:

a) Stay in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, as nearly everything you need is there, or within walking distance. Its famed 36 streets are the anchor of the quarter, each with its own special products . But this is not all; here you will find quaint hotels, some of the greatest eateries, and endless rows of galleries, all of which are so inviting without their doors, or with doors open.

b) Spend time around Hoan Kiem Lake. If you get up early enough, you can catch the "tai chi" klatsch. But there is so much more: fabulous restaurants such as City View Café , and Kim Quy, are both within a stone’s throw; the Thang Long Puppet Theater will delight all viewers with its legendary puppetry and the walk on the bridge which leads to the pagoda on the lake is just lovely.

c) If you are seeking a French atmosphere, then head over to the Le Malraux any time of day or night; the food is fabulous, the ambience even better, and they play awesome music at all times. Within a couple of blocks is "La Brique", which also caters to expats and tourists alike. If this isn’t sufficient, head over to the Metropole Hotel, where they are now offering cooking lessons daily. The hotel sits across the street from the prestigious Hanoi Press Club , where the food is fabulous, and the ambience very European. Chuck and I had the good fortune of meeting with the GM of the Press Club, Kurt Walter, before heading to Ha Long Bay for the most romantic cruise on earth. This area has been designated a World Heritage Site, and it is something extraordinary. Imagine navigating eerily calm waters, surrounded by mega monoliths (about 1900 of them, some with grottoes)that seem to hug the bay in a sheltering mode. Ha Long Bay is about a 3-hour drive from Hanoi, and if you have extra time, do not cheat yourself out of this experience.

Quick Tips:

Vietnam is still traditional despite its giant leaps forward. Please try to observe the following:

· Leave the cut-offs at home; dress modestly, and women should avoid plunging necklines.

· Don’t touch anyone on the head, children included.

· Don’t do anything with your left hand, which is considered dirty (lefties, I have no advice for you). · Don’t give white flowers; any other color is okay.

· If you’re going out to dinner, communal dishes are shared by all.

· When eating, don’t rest your chopsticks on top of the bowl, but rather to the side.

· Don’t cross your legs when sitting on a chair.

· Don’t point (I have this terrible habit!!).

· If you wear a hat, remove it for elderly, monks, and ladies.

· Don’t tell people you are not married (if you are single, they will pity you; if you are living together, talk about your children).

· Don’t give children money, sweets, clothes, or any medicine.

· Appropriate gifts are pictures: you, your family, your country, the community; I had some fridge magnets with New York and the U.S. flag, colored markers that delighted the kids.

Best Way To Get Around:

Take cabs everywhere; they are inexpensive, fast, and can get you to most destinations for under US unless you’re going out of town. If you are a very experienced motorbike rider, you may want to give it a try, but do keep in mind you are taking your life in your hands, literally. This journal has not yet begun to cover the depth of our visit to Hanoi. There are distant places that are must-see aside from Ha Long Bay, which I’ve already talked about. For instance, Chuck and his photographer friends took a day trip to an authentic fishing village on the coast, southeast of the city. In that case, you must have a car and someone who knows where they are going.

. Forty-five minutes from the city is Bat Trang, and I’ll be posting raves about this place soon, I hope. This village is "it" as far as pottery goes. Save your dongs for this visit! There are bus tours that will take you, and your hotel concierge can make the arrangements. Two to three hours should be ample time to do the damage.

So damn lucky to get this hotel. Our itinerary was jam-packed, and Vietnamstay.Com was of invaluable help to us.

Though moderate by Western standards, this hotel gets 4 stars from me.

A number of things differentiate it from others in the category:

1) It’s in the Hoan Kiem District, where you want to be.

2) Rooms are huge , with balconies where you can reap sights and sounds of Hanoi any time.

3) They have DSL connections in the rooms!! Trust me on this one, this is luxury. No laptop? Then run to the lobby for checking email.

4) They serve the best free breakfast of any "moderate" hotel from 6am to 10am. Choose from baguettes, Vache Qui Rit cheese (the cow is big in Vietnam, a present from the French), omelettes, fried eggs with bacon and sausage, pancakes (these are exquisitely thin French crepes served with lemon and honey or sugar), cornflakes, poached or boiled eggs, baked beans on toast, or the traditional Vietnamese pho - the divine noodle soup derived from the French consommé. Juice, tea or coffee crowns the offerings.

5) They do laundry on the premises, for a song!! Luckily for me, I also found an extremely capable seamstress who altered four garments for me for $3.50. If you hand in clothes in the morning, they have them back to you the same day around 5pm.

6) Daily supply of fruit (usually bananas), hot tea, and sweet wafers.

The bathroom, by all criteria, is modern and spacious; there is no such thing as conditioner in Vietnam, so bring your own. However, every hotel supplies you with toothbrush, toothpaste, cotton swabs, soaps, shampoo, bath gel, and perhaps a comb. So, even though American hotels are very pleased to oblige you with these amenities, should you have forgotten them, the Vietnamese are ahead: the stuff is already in your room.

Furnishings are laden with lacquered cherry wood which underlines the Chinese influence present in so many things Vietnamese. Our deluxe room had a king-size bed and a lovely mirrored desk with wood carvings that continued onto the armchairs. An immense armoire with shelving and hanging space balanced the arrangement.

A moderate-sized refrigerator is standard in most rooms and always filled with a minimum of two bottles of water, usually the La Vie brand. Since beer is cheaper than water here, there will be four cans of it, and Coke, 7-Up, Orangina, and ginger ale make up the balance. The charges for each are so nominal, but water is even cheaper on the streets. Beware of rebottled water and never drink tap water. The cable TV has some of the best programming, including BBC, TV5 from France, and CNN World

It is no accident that the Hanoi Press Club lies directly across the street from the Metropole Hotel. If you did nothing but combine your time between the two, you’d never know you were in Vietnam.

The General Manager of the Press Club, Mr. Kurt Walter, extended an invitation to experience the Emeraude Ha Long Bay Cruise, and we had come to meet with him this afternoon.

My first impression of the Press Club is that it is a venue for the cognoscenti to come and gorge themselves silly on sinfully good food. That week, they were paying homage to French cuisine, buffet-style, for lunch. It was happening at the upstairs restaurant, an impeccably arranged eatery dressed in white-linen tablecloths and napkins and sporting the correct number of drinking vessels and tableware for each setting. The salad bar had me at "hello!" with offerings of Da Lat lettuce (Da Lat is in the central region of Vietnam), carrots, cucumbers, shredded cabbage and cauliflower, blanched broccoli, cherry tomatoes, and a grilled-vegetable assortment. You could drop a number of condiments on your salad, including marvelous capers, olives, gherkins, chives, and five different dressings. I simply could not resist a sliver of pate; after all, how French was this going to be without pate?

One could continue with soup, as well as a selection of crudités and a salade russe with hard-boiled eggs. Moving right along, make room for two main courses: braised beef bourguignon, roasted spatchcock (spring chicken) - yes they were serving fowl despite the shrieks from the US State Department regarding the avian-flu epidemic. If there was more room on your plate, you could fit the mashed potatoes and fresh-cooked vegetables. Wash it all down with fresh fruit, and then try to get off your chair!!

Essentially, the whole thing appeals to the gastronomic and nostalgic urges we all have and feel when we are away from home, and the Press Club manages to give you a mini trip back without the miles. If the upstairs restaurant did not appeal to you, then you could scarf something down at the deli on the main floor, walk right into the adjacent patisserie, and go into a diabetic coma just perusing at their offerings. I’ve included a picture of some of the desserts to put you in the mood. So, where are all the reporters you ask? If they’re not eating, then they’re reading leisurely while they’re eating. The Hanoi Press Club bills itself as a first-class event coordinator, a harbinger of all good things that are classic and timeless, European style. It publishes its very own periodical in both Vietnamese and English. Their chef, Marcel Isaak, comes directly from Switzerland. If you want any sort of information for your business or event, you can contact deputy General Manager, Brenda Ho, who has a wealth of information at her fingertips.

This wonderful café/bistro quickly became our favorite hang-out. It earned exceedingly high marks with us, as it was the only place which had the most aromatic Earl Grey tea in Hanoi. Le Malraux sits on the corner of Hang Trong and Nha Tho streets, which is a brisk five-minute walk from our hotel. We favored it as the spot to relax, listen to international jazz (Chuck bought his first CD from them), and read magazines they keep on hand for their patrons. It was here that I discovered "Time Out", Vietnam Discovery , and multiple copies of the Vietnam Economic Times – The Guide/Almanac 2005" ; I kept the latter.

The menu is undeniably French, with a sprinkling of this and that; we tried the Nem, of course, which are those heavenly spring rolls, but they were a bit on the dry side. Nothing on the menu is over $10, and a typical day’s servings look like this:

· Soupe a l’oignon (onion soup)
· Soupe de legumes (vegetable soup)
· Salade de tomates (tomato salad)
· Spaghetti Bolognese/Carbonara/Napolitaine
· Nems (spring rolls)
· Filet Boeuf (beef steak)
· Boeuf sauté aux nouilles (noodles with sautéed beef)
· Poule aux champignons (chicken and mushrooms)
· Cotelette de porc (pork cutlets)
· Crepes au fromage, crepes sucres (with cheese, with sugar)

What I absolutely loved about this place were the conversation areas, anchored by huge sofas and armchairs. Center coffee tables facilitate the service of food. Round and square tables with chairs are in the center and the bar is in the rear. A straw-matted ceiling secures the overhead fans and faux hanging lampshades. Table candles add a romantic mood that goes well with the music. An étagère displays some local art, and I immediately spotted a rather old, black and white photograph of Andre Malraux next to the bar.

For those not familiar with Malraux, he was a writer, a poet and a politician despite himself. Incidentally, his book, The Royal Way, is being adapted in an upcoming film which will start shooting in Vietnam this fall, making it the first U.S. movie to be filmed in the central highlands of Hoa Binh. Malraux served as ex-President De Gaulle’s ambassador during the American war with Vietnam. In fact, he had been one to suggest the North and South division of Viet Nam to the Chinese. The proposal was instantly repudiated, and China declared its support in the struggle against the United States.

It is apparent to me by the presence of the picture on the wall that the Vietnamese were fond of Malraux. He died in 1976.

We had been walking around Hoan Kiem Lake most of the day, and as usual, I was attracting all the hawkers who wanted me to read The Quiet American. If I refused to read that one, they would quickly produce another, and another. The last resort would be a heap of postcards, and the price would lower as time would pass. I almost always refused politely, shook my head, and said "no" in as many ways as I knew how. These kids are persistent! Had I given into my impulses, our trip back from Vietnam would have included air cargo. Chuck always amused himself photographing these moments and would remind me later of my predicaments through the snapshots.

The area around the lake is replete with restaurants, and as we glanced up, we saw the Kim Quy (literally means golden turtle). Enthusiasts of elevated outdoor dining, there was no hesitation between us, so up we went. There were not many diners at this hour, but no matter--they found us a perfect spot on the balcony, with eagle views of the lake, the traffic circle below with the water fountain (ah, visions of Paris, Rome, La Reforma in Mexico), and the building across the street, which later became a fusion of neons in the starless Hanoi night. As we sat, our host unfolded the napkins on our laps and silently disappeared. The view was so engrossing that for a few moments, we forgot why we had come. As the camera clicked away, I watched the insanity of bicycles, motorbikes, buses, and the occasional cars going straight into each other and avoiding any bloodshed. There is a picture below illustrating exactly what I mean. Let’s get down to the food!

Kim Quy has an extensive menu of Vietnamese and French foods, together with a well-stocked liquor cabinet. We both had fish drenched in white sauce with boiled vegetables that were softer than al dente, but quite tasty. Chuck decided on a huge coquille St Jacques--and I do mean huge--that was topped with a béchamel sauce so delicious that I ended up eating it. I must admit, it was very difficult to pay attention to our food since there was so much life happening below us--some of it a bit dangerous, and the rest so vibrant, restless, and teeming with all things moving.

Sunset caught us still sitting at our table, absolutely refusing to move; to prolong the delicious evening, I ordered a white coffee. Thinking I had mastered the coffee thing, I was mortified when it arrived, because it was not at all what I had imagined. White coffee is a very common term in Saigon, but it's apparently not used in Hanoi. The floor manager came to the rescue with superior English and eventually understood what I had asked for. Case solved. Great eatery.

How would you like your camel cooked? Al dente? With or without humps? How many dongs are you carrying? Seriously, for VDN60,000 (about $3.80), you can enjoy fried camel with… a side of mushrooms. Not engaged? Okay, let’s try something else. Fried perfume snail, perhaps? It’s not certain what kind of perfume goes in there, but take a chance!! Here’s a good one: " Sort of Crab"; well, what sort? Some folks are really particular, aren’t they? These are just a few of the tantalizing offerings from the City View Café in Hanoi, most likely the best positioned restaurant this side of Hoan Kiem Lake. DAMN, what a view! We are on the fifth floor (you can walk up, but take the elevator; it’s faster!), and this is tantamount to skyscraper status. For the first time in days, the sun was shining and the Old Quarter was beaming along with it. Chuck and I were doing a waltz around this building, as we had seen it when we had dinner at Kim Quy , which is directly across the street and a lot lower. We entered through a main door on one side and found ourselves browsing in a block-wide superstore selling household products, snacks, toiletries - something like one of our super drugstores here in the States, only larger. Presumably, there could have been an entrance to the multi-level restaurants we had seen, but that would be too easy.

The entrance and the elevators that take you to the various floors is practically hidden, and were it now for an ambitious young recruiter on the ground level, we’d never find the place. It’s all timing they tell me.

As it turned out, we would have the entire balcony to ourselves for most of the meal. We opted for a table facing the lake, and it was impossible to sit still and not run around the three corners of the open space to "see what I could see."

Fear not, for the menu at City View Café has several pages of savory entrées, and you can go continental if you wish. What I did notice during this culinary exploration is that spaghetti is on almost every menu I’ve seen. And they do a great job with it, especially the Bolognese variety. So, we both ordered it. I had my usual lemon juice (which is actually heavenly limeade), and Chuck skipped the oats and had a coconut shake instead. The grated cheese elicited some laughter from us both, as it was Kraft and the rest was in Chinese.

The service was wonderful, and there are not enough adjectives to describe the view. See the pictures. I even stopped worrying about the traffic circle below.

Some other choices on the menu: curried chicken or seafood, Thai style; steamed crab meat; grilled oyster clam; Singapore noodles (beats me); fried beefsteak with pepper, and grilled beef, Hungarian style.

Evenings in Ha Noi are a wonderful time to walk and explore; it is mercifully cooler than Saigon by at least 10°F and slumming around proved exciting, even if we would see some parts of it again. You’ve probably learned or read in other journals about Ha Noi’s Old Quarter, and I do try to write about that which hasn’t been beaten to death. You know Ha Noi’s 36 streets and how they all represented a specific trade/merchandise, and that the word "hang" means shop, and that’s why it’s found in most street names. The quarter itself is a bit wacky frankly, as oftentimes a street will pick up a new name at random. Sort of like Boston if you know what I mean.

We did make some a great discovery on the evening we were leaving Ha Noi for Hue and had to kill a few hours.

The Lucky Hotel drove us a bit crazy that night, as they wanted us to pay 90% of the room rate for a couple of hours.

Along Hang Bong, a street we had practically exhausted, but what the heck…I was startled by some very colorful signage, and the word TEA made quite an impression in my brain. After all, one does not expect nourishment on Hang Bong, nor does one get it. So, naturally, I stopped.

Let me introduce you to Zhen Zhu Tea, the cutest little tea bar in Ha Noi who has "made in Taiwan" on their menus and their business cards. So what did that mean? Zhen Zhu means pearl milk, and with tea, it is concocted with many different flavors. I realized that this concept had reached Boston University’s community several years ago, as my daughter insisted we stop and enjoy "bubble tea," which she thought originated in Japan. East is East. However, this is Taiwanese and has made its way around the world for me to find it in Ha Noi.

I was so taken with the menu and the shrink-wrapping system they have (imported from China) that is so much more convenient than the caps we put on our plastic cups here. The straws, which are served along with your drink, serve to "impale" the plastic cover in one quick thrust and you’re set.

Let me entice you with some of the offerings, please! Aside from green and black tea mixtures, you can have it with jelly, taro, coconut, or strawberry, iced or hot. Naked tea can be had with plum or with honey. Or you can have "Tiny Ice Juice" in an apple, lemon, coffee, or mango variety. I wanted one of each. Not fanatical about tea? How about juice (not tiny): egg honey, lemon egg, orange egg, dark plum, watermelon, papaya, or fresh apple. I had been seduced by coffee, so I could have golden, caramel, cappuccino, ovaltine (yes!), UFO, or "flesh" milk with fruits.

Familiar landscapes of Vietnam suggest rice fields, planting and harvesting, working the soil with oxen, caring of children, and fishing and perpetuating traditions established by ancestors.

Historical testimonies demonstrate that water puppet performances happened before the Royal Court at the onset of the 11th century, at which time it was already well structured. It is therefore assumed that prior to that period, this type of entertainment had previously been in widespread use in the villages.

The Thang Long Water Pupper Theater boasts a famous troupe of puppeteers that has been all over the world. The "action" takes place on a water stage, whereby various puppets are introduced to recreate Vietnamese rural life and its dependence on the agricultural cycle. We witness mythical figures, like dragons, expertly dancing and plunging in and out of the murky water; basket boats appear with their load to transport food from one place to another. There are children at play and ducks lined up in a row doing their own dance on the water.

The majority of rice farmers’ rituals are always manifest by the fixation of an awful harvest: thus, the ritual invocation of rain was particularly important. Water would always play a major part: washing of the pagodas with water and ablution of the Buddha statues and scholars, bathing the elders, releasing of fish and other marine animals, swimming competitions, and water puppets…

The actual theater is a very unassuming structure, which we almost missed, as in this particular instance, our taxi driver was not quite certain as to where he was heading. It’s on the right hand side of Dinh Tien Hoang Street, and a long and narrow tower bears the inscription of the theater’s name. You cannot assume that you will get seats for the next performance: as in the old days, seats are assigned and adhered to quite strictly. You may choose from first-class seats for VND40, 000 (about US$2.55) or second-class seats for VND20, 000 (about US$1.25). The first class-section was sold out until the following night, so we purchased advanced tickets.

No one is permitted to enter the upper level of the theater until everyone from the previous show has left. The theater is not that large, so if you have purchased second-class tickets, you can still get a fairly good view of what is going on. They have an introduction in English, French, and Vietnamese; lights are dimmed and the musicians and singers on the side of the stage begin to chant, actually recounting a story. Most of the instruments are percussion, which produce more grandiose and extraordinary sounds – large drums, cymbals, castagnettes, rattles… and let’s not forget the fireworks for the grand finale.

The puppets themselves are quite comical in appearance, and one can purchase from shops in the area those puppets that have been retired in favor of newer models. The protagonist here is Teu, the farmer, who is somewhat of a buffoon.

If there is only one museum you can see in Hanoi, make it this one. The splendor of it will hit you with the recreation of authentic housing of the communal tribes, which make up Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups. And just when you think you’ve really seen the richness of the various cultures, you enter the main building, and then you will be totally bewildered. Guided tours are available, and group tours can be booked in advance by calling (84-4) 756-2193.

The Museum was dedicated in 1997 by French President Jacques Chirac as a testament to the ethnic tribes and their lifestyles and habitats. The building itself is constructed as a two-storied, semi-circular structure, prefaced by a huge marble-floor lobby bearing a plaque of the dedication, as well as several wall tapestries reflecting the art of the different cultures. I found the upstairs portion absolutely mesmerizing and couldn’t tear myself away from the descriptive plaques (in English and French) that accompanied each and every display. If you want some order in your visit, start downstairs, and from the lobby, head to your left, where you will get an introduction. We never do anything in an orderly manner, but it has always paid off.

We started our journey outside, walking alongside a replica of a boat from Thanh Hoa Province that was used to transport people and goods across the Ma River. We first visited a Cham dwelling, which consists of five buildings, the most important, the Thang Lam, being where the family’s most precious valuables are held. Simple and colorful straw mats with pillows make up a bed, and there is usually a hold for the various pottery, cooking vessels, brooms - much like a pantry closet. Construction materials include mud, bamboo, straw, tapa, akuh, and barmuth. The model is 100 years old.

Much time is spent in the next exhibit, which is called the Long House (see photo below); getting up there is half the fun, as we have to climb an unusual wooden ladder, since the house floor is about 1m off the ground. Historically, some houses reached 200m in length, and size equated wealth. Matrilineal in nature, the Long House accommodated the families of the daughters and granddaughters who descended from the same mother. Whereas dozens of families would share the dwelling, chores, and food, the eldest woman managed the property. What disturbed me most were the two separate entrances, the rear reserved for the women.

It was not likely to imagine that the next construction was actually a burial place; prominent wooden carvings of sexually explicit men and pregnant women surround the high wall that surrounds the building. Other more commonplace carvings of animals, together with dishes, bottles, and tools, would ensure that the deceased was well provided for in the afterlife. It had an Egyptian pharaoh footprint to it somehow. The tomb came from the Mrong Ngo village in Gia Lia Province.

It is not possible to do justice to the Museum of Ethnology, no matter how many segments one chooses to write. First, let me share with you the vivacity of Vietnamese children: they, too, were visiting and never neglected the opportunity to practice their English with us. Words like "hello" and "bye" provoked thunderous claps of laughter; frantic waving ensued by a group of boys that were having lunch as we walked by them, and they watched us with incredulity while we remained motionless to capture a photo of a frog. All of them love the camera, no matter how old. Let’s go inside now.

In Part 1, I left you inside the circular entrance without mentioning the focus, which, for lack of a better word, looks like a decorative totem pole. However, it’s much fancier and sports a tail at the top that hangs back down with a half-square motif at its end. See the photo please.

Upstairs includes an exhibit of Tai textiles, which is supported by the Rockefeller Foundation: I can’t stress enough how proud I felt that we made a contribution to this magnificent place. The exhibition attempts to chronicle the importance of the skillful techniques employed by Tai women (Laos, Vietnam, China, and Thailand) in textile design and application and the role it plays in maintaining tradition while exploring modernity at the same time. An explosion of color several feet high of paper banners, animal, and toy shapes, pierced paper, and decorative objects will greet you as you enter. For sanity’s sake, try to follow an orderly path, lest you lose your wits, as I almost did. Your eyes will want to devour everything as your mind unconsciously clicks away at the lifelike displays that surround you. If you don’t make it to Sapa, this museum is a fabulous consolation prize until the next time.

You can start with the "Brocade Art" segment, where clear details are given on the art and technique of the weave. Stunning garb brings to life the wooden mannequins with gold ringlets, red tassels, and harmonious blends of color. Continue on to the Pathen people, whose specialty is agriculture, wooden utensils, basketry, and metalwork. The decorative motifs of women’s clothing are particularly unique, as they use lots of reds, favored as good luck by the Chinese.

By contrast, the Tibeto-Burmese women, La Hu, Lai Chau , wear a great variety of colors and signal their social status via a black headdress and a chignon piled on top of the head. The Khmer groups in the North share similarities with the Lanna of Thailand, having long lived together in the same regions. They inhabit stilt houses, cultivate rice, and raise livestock and fish. They use advanced techniques for basketry. Finally, the Hoa are most populous (numbering almost a million) around Saigon and descend directly from the Chinese. With them, they bring the art of calligraphy, papermaking, lacquered woods, pottery, and incense production.

Hoa Lo means coal oven; this prison was also known as "Maison Centrale" in 1901, when the French built it. During the American War, it acquired the name of "Hanoi Hilton". Interestingly, in 1954 and prior to 1965, the citizens of Hanoi used the facility as a temporary rehabilitation for delinquents. You will not see significant and unusual answers here about the American War. Much of that section has been demolished in favor of the Hanoi Central Tower, built in 1997. No need to fret however, as you will come across novel approaches to torture.

The doorway is not in any way a preview of what is to come; in fact, it looks more like the entrance to a hotel. Until you get inside. Those who can read French will be smacked in the face with the following notice posted at regular intervals throughout the prison: "Hoa Lo Prison – A Crime by French Colonialists toward jailed Patriots and Revolutionaries". There goes la grande histoire d’amour between the two! Horrific were the renditions and actual leg iron clamps to which the prisoners were confined, days at a time. Another wonderful French invention, the guillotine, made its way into the prison, and was used for most executions. There was a particular record of the beheading of certain Vietnamese patriots by the names of Nguyen Thai Hoc, Pho Duc Chinh (both in 1930) and between 1930 and 1932, Nguyen Duc Canh , Ho Ngoc Lan and Nguyen Hoang Ton.

You will find photographs and scale models of the original structure which was quite ambitious in size; as you weave through the rooms and in and out of courtyards, an actual part of a sewer and its door are on display; in 1951, more than a dozen death row inmates escaped through it, some of which were able to join the resistance movement against the French. Also outdoors are oversized bronze carvings depicting violence against the prisoners, showing some tied to chairs with heavy ropes, others tied to ladders with ropes around limbs and torso. Look up, and you’ll understand the reasons for underground escapes: the walls are exceptionally high and copiously crowned with shards of broken glass.

Let’s move on to the American section, albeit small, but the exhibit might elicit a chuckle or two. Several photographs of captured soldiers are featured, with an emphasis placed on John McCain’s personal and military apparel that earned a separate glass case. What is impossible to swallow though is yet another photograph of American G.I.’s cooking chicken, looking as if they were guests of Emeril Lagasse. Another showcase delineates all the items given to the prisoners for their comfort and well being. Though some of the translated material leaves much to be desired, it wishes to convey that the North Vietnamese not only treated their prisoners humanely, but also with special leniency as they were released from Hoa Lo in February of 1973. This is a must-see.

I began collecting cards from the shops I visited and ones of the better restaurant experiences we had. This happened almost immediately after I became quite ill in Saigon. From this information gathering, I thought putting together a directory of important to great places to visit could be quite helpful. So here it is, ready to be downloaded for your next visit to Ha Noi.

The first address I recorded prior to my departure was the American Embassy in Vietnam.

United States Embassy
7 Lang Ha Street, Ba Dinh District
Tel: 84-4-7721500

In the event you become ill enough to warrant medical attention, don’t pay attention to any of these guidebooks I read, which tell you about emergency medical evacuations. That’s enough to scare anyone to death, and it’s not warranted. As long as you are willing to pay for your care, there is excellent treatment to be given. Keep a couple of these numbers and addresses on hand:

Vietnam International Hospital
Phuong Mai Road, Ha Noi
Tel: 84-4-574-0740
Attending physicians are usually foreigners with Western medical training.

Serious Shoppers, see below (all references are located in Ha Noi):

Kim Do Gallery
48 Hang Trong
Notes: Oil on canvas (reproductions of famous art), silk painting, embroidered art, and framing

Viet Silk
61 Hang Trong

Tropical
66 Hang Trong and also at
65 Hang Gai

Sapa Shop
65 Hang Trong
Notes: Drown yourself in silk and more silk. I couldn’t resist and bought a handbag that had lovely embroidery on the front. Scarves, shawls, and clothing are all handmade. The shop enjoys a corner location, so you can’t avoid it.

Ha Noi Gallery
17 Nha Chung
Notes: This was unusual because it featured posters and paintings of old communist propaganda. Perhaps a collector’s fetish?

Hoang Thanh Shop
3 Hang Bong
Notes: art, hand embroidery, silk shop.

Nia Nia
63 Hang Bong

Minh Tam
2 Hang Bong
Notes: This is one of the most artistic shops for lacquer ware, and if you think you’ve seen lacquer, think again. Most shops carry the same items from the same manufacturers, but this shop featured the owner’s work.

Van Loi
87 Hang Gai
Notes: Hang Gai Street is the Fifth Avenue of Ha Noi. This shop has another location on 83 Ly Nam De. They specialize in wood furnishings, lacquer ware, and accessories.

This next one has been talked about in many guidebooks, as it deals directly with the artists:

Craft Link
43-45 Van Mieu

If you need a bank for services other than instant cash:

ANZ
14 Ly Thai To

and also try:

Vietcombank
198 Tran Quang Khai, or 108 Cau Go

Internet Cafes

A-Z Hanoi Spirit Club
50 Hang Be

Jackson Café
72 Ba Trieu

Julian’s
32 Le Thai To

We had been in Vietnam for close to 2 weeks now, and each day brought exhilaration and discovery beyond what we could visualize. As every trip has its high points, I had studied Ha Long Bay prior to arriving here, together with some of our other anticipated stops. If Vietnam were a woman, then Ha Long would be its little black dress. For all who are contemplating this magnificent country as your next destination, do not forego one of UNESCO’s most glorious World Heritage Sites.

However, covering the 180km from Hanoi to the bay is an adventure in itself. We had a driver from the Press Club come to pick us up at our hotel at around 8:30am. Since this cruise includes a night onboard, you should be prepared to have a change of clothing, toiletries, etc., whatever it is you need to carry you through till the next morning. If you arrange for the cruise through an agency prior to arriving here, which is recommended, they will similarly organize your transportation from Hanoi to Ha Long. As suggested earlier, do look up VietnamStay.Com , as they do promote the Emeraude Cruise and have a host of affiliations with various hotels and resorts throughout the country.

The van was fairly comfortable, though the best seats had been entirely appropriated by two women who were also going on the cruise. One of them was the creator of the Bonjour Paris! website, and the other was a photographer who was still using her trusted 35 mm camera. The day was London foggy, and it was difficult to see the famed limestone formations. Despite weather conditions, 18 people were expected to participate in the cruise. We had learned from Kurt Walter, general manager for Emeraude Cruises, that the ship has 39 cabins and can hold upward of 78 people, which is greater than any of the other vessels that ply the same waters and offer an overnighter.

We were getting away from Hanoi’s maddening traffic and onto a highway, but it is impossible to escape the kamikaze cyclo drivers and motorbikes. It’s a national hazard, this whole bike and traffic thing, as no one really obeys any law and rarely are there traffic lights. It is horrifying at first, but it does become routine after awhile, and you’ll start walking right into traffic like everyone else. That particular day, we witnessed two motorbike accidents; they occur daily.

I was riveted to the window, trying to capture with my mind’s eye the great dichotomy between brand-new, exquisitely colored, mahogany-door/window housing with dilapidated, haphazardly assembled shacks sharing the same sidewalk. This type of seesaw landscape is very common in both Hanoi and Saigon. It is also not unusual to see very elaborate gravesites, either in groups or stand alones, at very frequent intervals. Most families who live in rural areas are extended families and can span all of nine generations. The colorful tombstones they build for their deceased are an integral part of their life and tradition; since these are costly by relative standards, after a period of 3 years, the bodies are exhumed, the bones are washed, and they are re-interred into a smaller space so that the larger plot can be re-used and so on.

Ninety minutes had passed, and I suddenly noticed something different about our driver: he never honked his horn. For the last 2 weeks, every cab driver we have had seemed to be drawn to his horn beyond his own will; the constant honking can drive you mad at times, as it is totally unnecessary. Especially if you are occupying a lane that rightfully belongs to the other side of the road!!

We stopped at Dong Trieu Pottery Village to stretch our limbs, and I’d say you can look, but don’t purchase. The prices are determined in US dollars, the first indication of a tourist trap; the second is that you’ll find other tourist buses stopped here as well. At this point in our journey, I had seen too much pottery, lacquer ware, and embroidered art and knew my price ranges. Everything here was either triple or quadruple the prices we had seen in other places. If you are really set on pottery, the best place to go is the Bah Trang Village, which is about 25 minutes out of Hanoi and totally amazing.

We all took different directions, and I went to examine rows and rows of unfinished pottery; it was actually much more handsome than the finished pieces, as I could imagine how I would paint it or adhere papers to it and give it a personal touch. Most of the action was happening inside a huge showroom, and toward the rear section were young people, whom we were told were handicapped, working hard at the art of embroidery. This amazing art has been a Vietnamese specialty for ages, and I will tell you exactly where you need to go to get the most breathtaking pieces. We happened to stumble on the very center that produces it in Nah Trang. More on that later.

It is interesting to note that less haggling takes place in the north than in the south of Vietnam. It’s an interesting dynamic that has a lot to do with socio-economic conditions and cultural background.

We climb back into our van and pass through several villages before emerging into the city of Ha Long. I feel a chill inside as I peer at the limestone formations jutting out of the land; I had seen the photographs countless times, but was now driving on a road flanked by those incredible land formations, every one of which had a different shape and size. Some looked forbidding, while others gently sloped into the land and softened their appearance through rounded peaks. Banana trees shot out in clusters and would then disappear.

A phenomenal amount of construction is in progress around the bay; it is obvious that investors are banking on this area becoming a major draw for the tourists pouring into the country. Hotels and resorts are being built, and if I had to run a bed-and-breakfast, I’d love to do it here. Ha Long does boast a few four-star hotels, among them the Heritage Ha Long, the Bach Dang Hotel, the Plaza (no relation to the New York Hotel), and the Vuon Dao Hotel, which sits right on the shore. For alternative lodgings, please check this chart. From the water, the coastline could easily be mistaken for the French Cote d’Azur, with pastel-colored buildings, a kind of cornice by the waterfront, and souvenir shops alternating with photo-developing services. Kodak makes its mark here in Vietnam. I was really astonished to spot what looked like a group of the "bateaux-mouches," which are so popular on the Seine in Paris, anchored at bay when we arrived. Have a look at the photo below and see what I mean.

Making it to the pier from the van has its trying moments; prepared to be assailed by street hawkers with a zillion postcards, necklaces, T-shirts, embroidered napkins, and whatnots. I must look like easy prey, as I am always the one in the group that is surrounded by them, and no matter how many times you say, "no thank you," it’s always, "Madame, postcards, really cheap, one dollar" and an "okay, how much you pay"-type deal. We are held all in a small area, where they take a head count for the cruise and match folks to their luggage and their cabin number. From there, there is a long pier to be negotiated, at which end is a launch that will transport us all to the Emeraude, which we can see from shore. The day is yet full of promise.

The Emeraude is a product of one man’s quest into history who was so intrigued and fascinated by the beauty of the boats he had seen in Hai Phong harbor that he embarked on a two-year search which took him to the French Maritime Museum, where he was able to locate the family that had built the original vessels. This man is Eric Merlin, and indeed, his vision has enabled the replication of the original "Emeraude", which, along with its sister ships, Perle, Saphir, and Rubis, transported passengers through the enchanting waterways of Ha Long Bay.

Without getting too historical, let’s recall that the early part of the 20th century saw the entirety of Vietnam under French Colonial Control. Long before, a Bordeaux family by the name of Roque left the Old World in search of fame and fortune and found it in Indochina. The Roques were the engineers of the charming steamers, which so captivated the mind of Eric Merlin.

Painstaking measures have been taken to recreate the authenticity of the original vessel; French architects were commissioned to fashion the boat based on original photographs housed in the Paris Maritime Museum. Two million dollars later, it is safe to say that the Emeraude reigns alone as the largest steel craft in Ha Long Bay, fitted with current safety measures and evoking an historic and romantic past. Its maiden voyage was in December of 2003, and it has sailed daily since that time.

Cruising the breathtaking Ha Long Bay aboard the Emeraude is unlike any other experience, as mood, furnishings, architecture converge to recall the grandiose era of one of France’s most prized colonies. The serenity and limpid waters of the bay clasp 1969 limestone monoliths, half of which have been named by the Viet Namese according to their likenesses. Their majesty tend to take one’s breath away, whether espied from the Sun Deck, which is the uppermost on the ship, or your cabin’s porthole. Nature splendor is offered in an almost equally luxurious floating habitat, and what better way to experience the Bay of the Descending Dragons?

You may select the only suite on board, or any one of 38 deluxe cabins: within each are en suite private bath with shower; individual temperature control system, separate sink area with hot running water opposite which you can find your closet and shelving areas for your wardrobe. The beds are made with crisp white linens and sport reading lights (as if you’ll have time to read!); blankets are provided together with plush towels and toiletries. Cabin walls are covered in grass cloth and adorned with photographs of the times. Soft music, evoking the 1920’s era, can be heard throughout the ship. A small souvenir shop of local arts and crafts, as well as honorary "Emeraude" sweatshirts and caps, can be found on the main deck.

There are other enticing amenities which make this the cruise of choice: a 6 am Tai Chi class on deck, which will not only relax you and ready you for the day ahead, but also avail you of the most captivating sunrise of your earthly life. Onboard massages which can be delivered to your room, and believe you me, you will slip into something between bliss and a comatose state after you’ve succumbed to the hands of the seemingly guiltless masseuse. If you spared yourself the massage, join the others in a joyful kayak romp as the Emeraude drops anchor for a while. Can’t boil water? Heck, you can learn how to make tomato roses, among other delicacies, if you avail yourself of the afternoon cooking class. Everyone’s invited, including children.

Best of all the extracurriculars is the visit to the Sung Sot Grotto, which the French dubbed "Grotte des Merveilles". The name describes the reactions of visitors as they enter the 3 chambers of the grotto, which was discovered in 1911.

Last but not least, is the food. Chef Lien, originally Chinese, has an impressive resume of prestigious Hanoi based restaurants and hotels. He brings that expertise to the Emeraude, in constant cooperation with the Press Club, which assists in training and delivery of foods. On your cruise, you will enjoy three delectable meals: lunch and dinner on the first day, and a European breakfast on the next day. An entire journal can be devoted to the flavors and aromas of these meals.

Thus your itinerary on the classic cruise looks something like this:

DAY 1 HA LONG ARRIVAL - OVERNIGHT CRUISE (LUNCH/ DINNER)

12pm: Arrive at Emeraude Pier, Bai Chay – Ha Long City.
12-1pm: Welcome cocktail and check in on the Sundeck, presentation of the trip.
1-6pm: The Emeraude cruises through Ha Long Bay towards Bai Tu Long Bay, Tip Top Island and other scenic locations including Yen Ngua, Con Coc Mountains and a floating fishing village.
1-3pm: A Vietnamese lunch based on fresh seafood is served between 1pm and 2:30pm in the Emeraude restaurant
3-4pm: Optional excursion to Sung Sot Grotto (Grotto of Surprises) , weather and tide permitting. We provide French and/or English speaking guides to escort you. For those wishing to spend a relaxing afternoon, surrounded by this unique landscape, the Sundeck and its bar is the perfect location. Afternoon tea with pastries on the sundeck or in the restaurant and an aperitif before dinner for pre-booked of minimum group of 15 people.
4-5pm: The Emeraude cruises to the Trinh Nu (Drum Cave) & Hang Trong (Virgin Cave) grottoes, where we anchor for the night
5-7pm: As soon as the cruise anchors down, swimming is possible from the back of the boat. Rental kayak is available and allows you to visit both grottoes.
7-9pm: Vietnamese dinner is served in the Restaurant. After dinner, the Sundeck is waiting for those looking for an unforgettable, romantic evening.
Accommodation and overnight on board.

DAY 2 HA LONG SUNRISE CRUISE - DEPARTURE (BREAKFAST)

6:30am: Tai Chi Class on the Sundeck
7am: The Emeraude sets sail once again, heading toward Tuan Chau Island, passing the islands of Dinh Huong, Ga Choi, Dau Nguoi , through the breathtaking scenery of the bay leading for Halong City
7-8:30am: European breakfast is served at the Restaurant

To see more photos of the Emeraude, please click on this link

Is it with puzzlement or a bit of envy that we look at ex-pats? Actually, there isn’t much difference between an ex-pat and an immigrant, except that oftentimes, an immigrant arrives to a designated country by design rather than by choice. In our travels over the last few years, I had met them from all corners of the globe: they had intended to just come on vacation, or had been assigned a short tour of duty or some such thing. Here in Hanoi, and subsequently in Ha Long, I had the pleasure of interviewing two gentlemen, on separate occasions, both of West European origin, who willfully settled in Vietnam. In an attempt to draft you with the magic of Vietnam, I am transcribing the two dialogues below.

My first queries were directed at Kurt Walter, General Manager of both the Hanoi Press Club and Emeraude Cruises, during a most pleasant lunch we shared at the Restaurant on the premises of the Press Club. He is a fairly young, handsome and dynamic chap who is married, for the second time, to a native Vietnamese.

I: How long have you been here?

KW: It’s about eleven years now; this is the right time to be in Vietnam. I don’t want to hop around anymore.

I: Why the right time now?

KW: Tourism is expected to double in the next two years; this is home to me now. Hanoi is the "real" Vietnam", whereas Saigon has been too westernized, first by the French, then by the Americans.

I: So you prefer Hanoi

KW: It’s very crowded as you have seen; also, now people are buying more cars. It costs about US$8,000 to purchase a small Daewoo.

I: What did you do before joining the Press Club?

KW: I was Food & Beverage Manager from 1994 to 1996 at the Saigon Floating Hotel

. (Ed note: Saigon Floating Hotel was a barge that had been towed all the way from the Great Barrier Reef in Australia to the banks of the muddy Saigon River)

I: We were frankly a bit concerned at first about coming to Vietnam, with a bit of a scare regarding the avian flu epidemic.

KW: The US blows everything out of proportion….(pause)

I: How do you recruit non-managerial staff at the Press Club and Emeraude?

KW: We are involved with an organization called KOTO , which essentially helps underprivileged kids so that they may be intergrated into meaningful jobs in luxury hotels, for instance.

I: Who comes here for lunch? Or dinner?

KW: Everyone can come here anytime; we are now having a special springtime in Paris at the Restaurant right here; downstairs is mostly deli food. Our Chef was at the Hilton for sixteen years. He and I collaborated on a book called "The Food of Vietnam", providing financing and the photography.

I: Impressive.

KW: Last year, the Press Club won the prize for "Best International Restaurant" in Hanoi. We appeared in the Vietnam Investment Review. We have offices which are available for rent for businesses; we hold banquets, do catering, have party events.

I: Who owns the Press Club?

KW: Two French brothers own the Club; it was also designed by a French woman, and I don’t remember her name at the moment. In 1910, the original steamer that cruised Ha Long Bay was built by the French. We are inviting people to publicize our activities.

I: Did you attend the recent New York Times Travel Show in early March?

KW: No, I was not aware of this show. Please do send me the information about it.

I: How has the "doi moi" policy changed Vietnam in your opinion?

KW: Well, first of all, there are many more landowners than are reported; capitalists are everywhere, but they still represent a small percentage of the populace. But more people are coming to Viet Nam than ever before.

I: Tell me what sorts of people take the "Emeraude Cruise"?

KW: Predominantly French people; middle-aged and retired. And Australians. We go out no matter how many people are booked for the cruise, except when we prepare the boat for dry dock. We have 39 cabins and can accommodate 78 people.

I: Do you think people are discouraged because of the visa restrictions coming into Vietnam?

KW: Well, I don’t find it very easy, nor are U.S. customs very friendly to me when I come to the U.S. At least here, they are friendly. It has become such a hassle to come to the States.

The next day, aboard the Emeraude, I met Captain Dominique Malet. He was gracious enough to give me a few minutes of his time before we left the shore. To facilitate dialogue, I spoke to Dominique in French

I: How long have you been here?

DM: 30 days; I got the job through the Internet.

I: Wow.

DM: I’d like to introduce you to the real captain of this ship, Captain Tuan Long. ( TL and I shake hands; I learn that in order to obtain official registry for the ship, you must have a native captain on board.)

I: What is the greatest depth at Ha Long Bay?

DM: About 30 meters.

I: The music is so 1920’s, isn’t it?

DM: It’s done on purpose.

I: Is your family here with you?

DM: no, they are still in Lyon, but they’ll be joining me soon.

(We continued this the next day, as it was time to depart.)

I: Dominique, this cruise is too short

DM: they are planning to have yet another cruise that will do Hanoi, Nah Trang and Ho Chi Minh City.

I: I can’t wait that long, Dominique, seriously.

DM: No, no, no, this could happen as early as 2006, but it will require a different type of vessel, of course.

I: Of course.

I: Do you miss Lyon?

DM: Oh, no! This is a dream--imagine, at my age, being able to do this! Great weather, great food, great job. Oh, no!

Folks, mark your calendars!

Romance is a very subjective issue at times, particularly when it comes to trains. I have always loved traveling on the rails, perhaps ever since I was introduced to Tokyo’s bullet trains some years ago. Foreseeing this journey, we had booked our tickets for the Ha Noi/Saigon return by train with a couple of stops in between through VietnamStay.Com who had the wisdom to advise to fly north and train it south; they also disabused me of my folly that I’d be able to do Sapa and Da Lat in addition to planned stops in Hue and Nha Trang. It’s good to dream, isn’t it?

The rail system was built by the French and spans some 1100 miles north to south; parts of it were destroyed during the hostilities, and a week prior to our arrival, we had heard of a derailment. I don’t think dynamite could have stopped us. The station (Ga , borrowed from the French gare) in Hanoi is crowded since almost everyone heading south over some distance uses the train. You will want to take the Reunification Express "E", first class tickets, and try to book the lower berths, though they cost slightly more than the upper. Expect to pay five times more than the locals for the tickets you purchase. If you are doing Hanoi/Saigon all the way, it will take you about 40 hours. Do Not lose your ticket after you board: you will need it as they come around to collect them, and give you some plastic card which makes you legit until you get off, at which point, the ticket is returned to you. Since we had more luggage than a circus troupe, we had help from a number of people who wait just for these kinds of situations. Our cabin always seemed to be in the 10th car, and numbered 27 or 28. Have a look at the photo so you can assess the arrangement. If you like complete privacy, then purchase the upper berths as well as the lower, but we wanted to get "real", so our co-travelers included an American hippie mother and her son, a newly married couple from Australia, and two business men from Taiwan. The stories are unique and inimitable.

Depending upon the time of your departure, you will be allotted two bottles of water, lunch and/or dinner, clean bedding, including a sheet, pillow, and blanket (neatly folded on the berth). If you’re tired enough, as I was, you’ll sleep. If not, bring reading material, or a camera, and get busy. It’s not a smooth ride, but the glimpses caught from the wide window more than make up for any inconvenience. You will traverse immense fields of rice, and appreciate the enormous labor that goes into working the land for this crop. Corn will also pop up, as will farmers, oxen, chickens, hovels, colorful grave sites, and the ubiquitous conical hat. Early morning will greet you with piped in Vietnamese music, which really made me feel out worldly. A cart eventually comes around and serves coffee, corn nuts, chips; skip everything but the coffee and wait for the next cart which will have sweet bread with "built-in" jelly, pho, and cookies, which I found more suitable for the morning hour.

Now what about the rest of the train, the bathrooms, the "dining car", second-class and miscellaneous items such as bringing your own toilet paper? We had the luck of the Irish every time, since there was a Western toilet right next to our cabin; make sure you have toothbrush, toothpaste (there is ample soap, so pass on that), wet towelettes, and either toilet paper or tissues, because chances are, there will be none in the toilet. The washbasins are in a separate compartment, and actually, there are two sinks, side to side, to allow for more than one person to go through the ritual. Squat-style toilets are more prevalent in the train, and though we didn’t use them, we took pictures of them. If you are sensitive to odors, bring Lysol or some such thing. As these are air-conditioned cars, the train staff was not thrilled to see us opening the windows in the hallway; however, Mr. Photographer, Chuck, was shooting like mad at 40 miles per hour, and I must tell you, he caught some breathtaking countryside. As I cannot do it justice here, please go to link . Scroll down the page and hit the Vietnam word. Please also note that all the pictures are subject to copyright laws.

I found it relaxing to stick my head out the window and drink in the scenery; I was still at the stage where I was occasionally pinching myself.

First class is quite a distance from the dining car, and if you don’t mind walking through the corridors and the car connectors, opening and closing doors, and having the entire Vietnamese population staring at you, then do what we did. Go for a walk. Businessmen usually occupy the first-class car, or well-to-do families (such as the one we met in Hue, but that’s another journal). Second-class cars usually emit that unmistakable ngoc mam, which takes the credit for the marvelous taste it imparts to most dishes. However, when in concentrated form, a whiff of it might make you wish you could stop breathing. In second class, the berths are not as padded as the ones in first class, and open doors will let you glimpse entire families occupying a cabin, feasting on a meal, slumped on each other, trying to sleep, or reading. There were also three cars that had reclining armchair seats with ample legroom, for those who either must economize or are doing a shorter distance. Finally, the dining car, which is what I called the true "Orient Express". Despite posted signs requesting "no smoking", some folks just can’t seem to exist without a cigarette dangling from their lips. Here, people come for coffee (heavenly with condensed milk), pho, bun cha, and an assortment of pre-packaged snacks. This is also the area where they store your journey’s lunches and dinners. The seats are wooden, as are the tables; and for lack of space, we sat side-by-side sipping our coffees. Another word of advice: don’t attempt to walk back with your food or drinks; the movement of the train is such that you may arrive with nothing at the bottom of your cup.

We were getting off at Hue, and this is where one appreciate the advice of traveling lightly: they don’t give you a heck of a lot of time to get off! Forget anything you know about orderliness; there are travelers waiting to get on, and they will barrel right past you to get seated. I almost did not make it off the train, as I couldn’t get to the exit. Thankfully, one of the staff spotted me and dragged my luggage and me in the opposite direction.

Don’t expect trains to be on time. If they do announce a delay, such an announcement may not be repeated, even though there could have been a revision in the original time. If you don’t have the luxury of time, as in number of days, the train ride may not be for you. However, it afforded us an intimate look at the daily life of Vietnamese outside of the major cities, and after all, isn’t that what we all want to capture?