Winter 2005 & 2006 at Tremblant

The pedestrian village at the mountain is incredible—lots of hotels, condos (some ski-in ski-out), shops, restaurants, bars, and plenty of apres ski. But, of course, you are here in winter to ski, and there is wonderful skiing for all abilities. There are three sides developed on this mountain—so you can follow the sun, find the snow, and hide from the wind. It is rated number one in the Northeast, and reminds us of a mini-Whistler in B.C.

The village of St. Jovite, about 5 miles away, is charming. There are many quaint shops and less expensive restaurants.

Scandinave spa is so wonderful, it is built along a river with such care of ecology. Plan to spend at least an afternoon in the hot Jacuzzis, cold pools, steam rooms, and saunas—you can even swim in the river. Take a look at "Spa at Scandinave" , and see for yourself.

Dog sledding is so exciting. You need prior reservations, especially during vacation periods. You can make them at this website - "Dog Sledding at Tremblant" - and make sure to dress warmly—you may even be lucky enough to get to be the driver.

Quick Tips:

Skating is free on Lac Moore, and the rink is kept well lit, but they do not have rentals.

Lunch at the top of the mountain at Manitou Lodge (another write-up in 2004) is wonderful—far better than our New England mountain fare. Pastas, hot soups, pizzas, sandwiches, and my favorite  Poutine french fries covered with brown gravy and cheese. You may even run into Michael Douglas, Catherine Zetta-Jones and their family, as we did, they've just built a home on the Lake there.

 

Best Way To Get Around:

Tremblant is about an hour from Montreal. There is public transportation via bus, but a car is definitely a plus—unless you plan to stay exclusively at the mountain. If you go to this website there is a shuttle schedule with prices - Bus transportation from Montreal to Tremblant

There is a shuttle that operates between the mountain and the village for .00, but you have to wait in the cold and be on their schedule.

Walking in the pedestrian village with lightly falling snow is memorable—there are slippery steps and stairs and the walkways are cobblestone, so you must take care. Lakes and mountains everywhere make it all so picturesque.

Marriott Residence Inn at Tremblant is in a perfect location—at the center of the pedestrian village at the foot of the mountain. This is an all-suite hotel with studios and one- and two-bedroom units on four floors. Our one-bedroom suite was perfect for two. At 700 square feet, with a small balcony, fireplace, and fully equipped kitchen with even a dishwasher and a view of the outdoor seasonal pool and slopes, we were every satisfied with our choice.

The living room/dining room combo had a table seating four, a pullout sofa, and a gas fireplace. High-speed Internet access is complimentary, but the connection was behind the sofa, making it awkward to use. The computer had to be set on the lamp table instead of on a desk. The TV stand had drawers for extra storage. The queen room was very inviting, a white duvet covering a down-like comforter and a choice of down or fluffy polyfiber pillows making for a good night's rest. A second TV and phone line were very convenient. The tiled bathroom had access from both the bedroom and living room. Plenty of fluffy towels, storage under the sink, a powerful hair dryer, great water pressure, and good lighting make it a pleasure to use.

As with all Residence Inns, the lobby is nondescript, but the staff is very friendly and bilingual. Adjacent to the lobby is a large room with sofas, a TV, and a fireplace. Part of this room is set up as a buffet service area for a complimentary breakfast served daily from 7am to 10am. Scrambled eggs, roasted potatoes, sausage patties, and either pancakes or baked beans are the hot offerings. Make-your-own waffles; a toaster for bread, bagels, or English muffins; hot and cold cereals; fresh fruit; donuts; muffins; and juices will have you making a few trips for refills before your day of skiing. There is plenty of seating in a glass room overlooking the courtyard. It's entertaining to watch the "Cabriolet," and open gondola, taking people from the parking lots to the base of the mountain.

From 4 to 5pm, in this same room, a "snack" is served. Although the website calls it a "hospitality hour," each Residence Inn has their own version, and I've never found one to have alcoholic drinks, as they don't usually have a liquor license. We had chicken soup with French bread, chili on another afternoon, and broccoli soup with cheese. Fresh fruit and coffee are available all day.

The hotel has indoor parking (free) and ski lockers with locks that you can take to the mountain, and the hotel is ski in, ski out. It's definitely a treat to stay in the village, with all the ambiance, restaurants, bars, and shops within a few steps. I can't wait to return. The hotel's website will give you lots more info.

Club Privilege was a disappointment to us. Last year we exchanged at La Voliere. Both were available as exchanges this year, but we chose Club Privilege, managed by La Voliere. We were assured that the unit was new. Since construction was taking place last winter, we thought that this was another division of La Voliere. It was a misunderstanding due to language translation. The units had been refurbished and were a new purchase for La Voliere.

Club Privilege is 2 miles from La Voliere. It is a three-story apartment building with 12 units, six of which are RCI, and the other six house full-time local residents. The RCI units are on the second and third floors and there are no elevators. The building is old but the units have been refurbished - on a budget!! They are clean but in need of some maintenance: the oven temperature not reliable, the refrigerator was propped on a piece of tree branch to balance it, etc., etc. The two bedrooms each have a queen-size bed. It's a mattress on a very low platform with no headboard, and therefore the bedspread drapes on the floor. The guest room had two mismatched nightstands, no mirror, one lamp, and no clock. The unit in general looked sparse since it had no curtains, valances, or wall décor, except one needlepoint picture on the living room wall. The sofa and chair, although new, resembled Salvation Army leftovers and seating only for four in the living room.

There are two bathrooms, but only one has a tub/shower combo. The guest bathroom has no shelving or cabinets for storage - only a pedestal sink and toilet. There's a good supply of towels and a washer/dryer on the first floor. No housekeeping is provided, but a change of linen, extra towels, and midweek cleaning is available for a fee.

The grounds border a forested area and has a pool, wooden glider, and lots of birds around, and we even saw deer feeding. Club Privilege is comfortable enough for a week's stay but makes you feel isolated. What I missed most was the ambience of being at a resort and the energy sensed when vacationers are around. We did attempt to call RCI to move to another resort, but none were available in the area.

The most elegant accommodation at Tremblant is Quintessence, an intimate lakeside boutique hotel at the mountain resort on Mont-Tremblant. Only 30 luxury suites—all overlooking the lake, with balconies, stone fireplaces, and hydrotherapy tubs—this is luxury and understated!!

Quintessence sits at the foot of the pedestrian village at Tremblant on the edge of the lake. From the moment you enter, you know you will be pampered. A valet greets you at the door. You check in seated at a desk in the elegant lobby, fireplace aglow, flanked by leather sofas and microfiber-covered chairs, bamboo-style plants, and forced forsythia blooms that soften the elegant lobby. A view of the lake beyond, you immediately feel the stress leave your body from the day of travel.

In your suite—the smallest is 700 square feet—there is a foyer as you enter, Berber carpeting, and a large closet with robes, slippers, and a safe. This entrance opens to a large area with a view of the lake. There is a king-size bed with leather-trimmed headboard, so comfy looking with a down-filled duvet and fluffy pillows. There is soft lighting, with a sofa and chair set in front of a stone fireplace; tables, woodwork, and doors are dark-stained wood, all very "natural" looking. And then there's more: behind wooden folding doors is the claw-foot hydrotherapy tub with temperature controls and aromatherapy spa products. Open the doors and bathe with a view of the fireplace and lake—the ultimate in relaxation and romance!

Behind the tub is the marble bathroom with twin sinks, dark-wood cabinets, oversize framed mirror over the sinks, and separate shower and toilet—luxury at its best.

It is definitely a special place, and within walking distance of the lovely Tremblant village and skiing. Want to see firsthand? This is the link to the Quintessence Resort web page.

Le Vieux Four sits in the middle of the St. Jovite area of Mr. Tremblant, about 7 miles from the mountain. In this area, you can shop in small, attractive boutiques or practical super stores; have a quick bite to eat; or enjoy a gourmet dining experience in one of the many fine restaurants.

We were attracted to Le Vieux Four because of the pine trees beautifully decorated with hundreds of tiny white lights. As we neared the restaurant, we saw that they had French doors opening onto a patio for summer nights - and noticed that their specialty was wood-burning oven pizza. We're going in!!

We were led to a table for two by the French doors. The wood-burning oven is at the rear of the restaurant near the cocktail lounge. This area is reserved for smokers. The decor is rather modern, although the restaurant is attached to older buildings, some nicer than others. The renovation with the patio and French doors gave it a clean, neat "city" feel. The tables have placemats, not tablecloths, but the atmosphere is more resort casual than diner-like.

Once we looked over the menu, we decided to indulge in a three-course prix-fixe meal instead of pizza, but it did look appetizing with its thin, crisp wood-burned crust with choices of toppings. Maybe for lunch next time or to share as an appetizer, but the menu was too enticing to settle for pizza.

It's mostly Italian interspersed with French and continental dishes. Each entrée on the long Table d'hote menu has a separate price, ranging from C$19 to C$27, unlike the menus I'm used to in the US that offer a choice of three entrées for one price.

Appetizers include salads, soups, escargot, or pâtés. We enjoyed New York sirloin and veal stuffed with prosciutto and Mozzarella with pink cream sauce over linguine. For dessert, we chose the apple tart and crème brulee. Opt for the crème brulee. The meal cost C$45, plus wine, a good value.

It’s best to get there between 7 and 8:30pm. By 9pm, you'll have your own private dining room. Le Vieux Four is a return to casual, comfortable dining in the lovely resort area. Save a night for this one.

On a snowy weekday evening, we were driving through St. Jovite with a few restaurant recommendations in hand - fortunately for us, most places were near-empty (or we wouldn't have continued on) until we drove up the hill just outside of town to L'Escalloppe--the parking lot was full! This must be THE place.

We were warmly greeted by the friendly owner, who offered us a table in "La Verriere" - the glass house (solarium) if we waited a few minutes. Perfect.

L'Escaloppe is divided into four areas. There's a small room for smokers - probably a former living room - a main dining room, a porch area, and the solarium.

This is a casual restaurant with a mix of local folks and vacationers - lots of chatter and laughing. You're immediately comfortable. The tables are covered with double plastic cloths in floral design - yuck - and the waitstaff is busy - all are biligual, friendly, and experienced.

All meals include soup or salad bar, main course, dessert, and tea or coffee. A few appetizers could be ordered a la carte (extra charge), such as escargot or fried calamari. The salad bar was endless and included even mussels and seafood salad.

Pork, chicken, or veal is prepared a number of ways over pasta, steak, and either shrimp or langutines to mix and match as a surf-and-turf entree and some "game" featured as a special.

We chose very flavorful, creamy mushroom soup and home-baked rolls to start. A special of game stew (bison, venison, caribou, and wapati) in puff pastry was very good. A heaping portion of shrimp, scallops, and lobster with cream sauce topped with cheese, surrounded by mashed potato, filled a large scallop shell - somewhat resembled the well-known French Coquille St. Jacques. A rich chocolate cake with whipped cream rounded out a very satisfying meal in a great setting - especially with the snow falling and covering the solarium ceiling.

Definitely a come-back-to restaurant - casual, affordable, friendly, comfortable, and great food. Can't wait 'til next year.

Once you've checked into the hotel and relaxed it's time to dine... The restaurant and beautiful cocktail lounge are accessed via a wrought iron railed winding staircase to the lower level. This level has access to the lawn leading to the lake. In summertime, the French doors are opened, and breakfast and lunch is served outdoors on teak tables with place mats overlooking the lake.

Tables are elegantly set with beautiful crystal stemware shimmering in the candlelight. Seating is widely spaced apart and all tables have views of the lake. On quiet nights dinner is served in the cocktail lounge - no less elegant. It's dimly lit with a beautiful bar, grand piano, wood-burning fireplace. There are sofas for cocktails and tables with elegant leather or microfiber covered arm chairs for dinner service. Both the dining room or cocktail lounge are equally elegant to dine in - in fact, you do feel more comfortable in the cocktail lounge when there are fewer diners.

Dinner is a serene and romantic experience. Servers are well trained and experienced. The continental menu is well prepared and elegantly presented. The chef is a master with execution and the presentation is flawless. Service is unobtrusive but attentive and paced so as to allow you an evening of dining pleasure.

There is a choice of three prix-fixe menus - either three, four, or five courses. There is a large selection of fish and meats with a surcharge for some items. The wine list is extensive with an enormous, viewable wine cellar seen from the bar area. During high season, live piano music is featured on Saturdays and holidays - otherwise a nice selection of piped in music creates the mood.

To preview a menu you can click on Quintessence and follow the link to their restaurant and wine-bar. Definitely a special place for a special occasion!