48 Hours in Reims

Travelers often tend to have an overly romanticized vision of France, and while it does indeed possess charms such as striking historical architecture and vineyards gracing rolling hills, its cities are also subject to city things like trash and dog poo on the streets and less comfortable neighborhoods. Don't get me wrong - it's easy to get swept away in the ritzy champagne houses and the remarkable history of Reims, and if you appreciate fine dining and luxurious accommodations, there are certainly options to satisfy expensive taste. Be sure to visit at least one champagne house (Piper-Heidsieck has a very visitor-friendly tour on a little roller-coaster-style car through the caves) and peek into the cathedral to get a wholesome history lesson. Also, the Musee de la Reddition is worth the short walk around the train station, where you can see Eisenhower's map room where the Germans signed their surrender on May 7, 1945. Just be prepared to see a few street beggars, dodge McDonald's, and watch your step on the sidewalk.

Quick Tips:

The tourist information office is located right next to the cathedral on rue de Coucy. Although many brochures are printed in French, the office offers plenty of maps and various information, and the people there are helpful and friendly. If you're interested, they can arrange appointments at champagne houses that do not offer general tours. Local event listings are available in a few different publications generally found in most hotel lobbies. The CIS (see accommodation entry) offers bike rentals. Be sure to note the opening times of champagne houses and museums, as most are closed during mid-day and sometimes on Mondays.

Best Way To Get Around:

I always prefer to walk in foreign cities, and this was no exception, although the clerk at the information centre suggested I take a bus to some of the farther champagne houses since it was cold and raining. Luckily, I had an umbrella, but for those less adventurous, the bus system seems quite efficient. Also, if you're on the quest for champagne, you may also be interested in taking a train to nearby Epernay (20 minutes) for a day or half-day trip. While you're there, visit the king of champagnes, Moet & Chandon, and sip some more bubbly.

Although the front desk mixed up my reservation, it worked to my advantage, since I ended up in a single room with free breakfast to compensate. I paid 13.30€ a night, with shared facilities. The room was spotless and bright, and the staff was friendly and spoke English well. The breakfast was good, worth the extra 3.30€, especially for the fantastic coffee machine! The location was pretty good, just about a 5- to 10-minute walk to the city centre, with some easy food options and grocery stores just across the bridge from the hostel. My only complaint was that the showers were cold--consistently cold the first morning and alternating from lukewarm to cold the second day. Their website provides helpful information at http://www.cis-reims.com.

Notably different from its neighbor Piper-Heidseick, Taittinger takes a more traditional approach to the champagne-house visitor experience. I had a fantastic personal tour since it wasn't very busy at the time I arrived. My guide was very personable and informative, and the chalk caves where the champagne is stored were interesting, if a little chilly (definitely bring a light jacket, even in summer). I was especially impressed with the history involved in the caves-- some were dug out by Romans in the 1st century. The information presented about the process of creating champagne is equally as interesting for the average curious visitor and the wine-savvy. The tour cost 7€ and lasted approximately 1 hour, with a tasting at the end. For more information, visit the website at www.taittinger.fr.

A beautiful rebuilt cathedral, although it's a shame the original didn't survive WWII bombings. Worth a walk through, especially the Chagall stained-glass windows on the back (or front?) wall. Also note the famous smiling angel statue on the exterior of the cathedral. A visitors booth inside the cathedral offers some information and various souvenirs.

After sipping all that champagne, I figured my visit to Reims needed some good old-fashioned education, and I was genuinely interested to see the room where the Germans signed their surrender at the end of WWII. Follow the signs and then head for the international flags to find the museum. Admission is free for students with a valid ID, and adults are charged about 3 to 4€ (I think--I still have my college ID, so I didn't pay).

First, I watched a short video with some good WWII-era footage and background info, and then I headed upstairs to the main museum. It was spacious, clean, and well organized, and I enjoyed looking at the photos and artifacts. The war room itself was also impressive, especially when you consider the gravity of the events that took place there. It is definitely an attraction worth visiting, whether as a history class refresher or a counter to too much champagne.