A Southern City

Wading in the James River was one of the best parts of my trip. It seems amazing that you could do that in a city the size of Richmond, but it demonstrates the kind of natural balance that exists there. Driving along Monument Avenue and around The Fan is also a lot of fun. There is a lot to do for a Civil War buff in Richmond, but I really enjoyed the variety of great restaurants and bars in Carytown and the downtown area.

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As its name suggests, the building that houses this restaurant was once a tobacco business. These days it is an elegant but comfortable restaurant, spanning three floors with a beautiful open elevator moving between them. There are plants all over the place, and a skylight which gives the whole dining area a bright atmosphere, perfect for 'people watching.' The cuisine is sort of New Southern, with delicious offerings like crab cakes, stuffed mushrooms, fritters, quail and smoked chicken. The portions are huge, so even though its expensive you feel like you are getting value for your money. For a special night out, this is a great place.

Belle Island once housed prisoners captured by the Confederate Army during the Civil War. It is both a peaceful retreat from the city, and a place of historical interest. The island is reached by a narrow footbridge from Richmond and includes several plaques explaining its historical significance. Only the foundation of a former prison structure still stands today. Belle Island is also a lovely spot just to take a nature walk. There are two routes to take - a moderate walk along the James River banks, or straight up the hilly inclines for a more challenging climb. It only takes about an hour to cover the small island, so it is a very manageable detour when visiting the city. The island feels very natural and wild - not overly tamed or populated. You also get a nice view of the city from the island.

The James River runs through Richmond and on hot days you will see people plunging in from its banks. It is a rare experience to sit in river water and see the city spread out before you. When there hasn't been much rain, you can sit up to your neck in the calm waters and cool yourself, just like a hippo. After a rain the river is at its most refreshing, when the rapids will run hard and water runs quick and cold and you can let the momentum carry you. You are on your own out there - no lifeguards to pull you out of the drink if you get into trouble. Also beware of sharp rocks and other assorted debris.

Richmond was the capital of the Confederacy during the Civil War and Monument Avenue includes statues of some famous figures like Robert E. Lee and Jefferson Davis. But the best feature of Monument Avenue is the statue of the late, great Arthur Ashe. Ashe was a Richmond native and it is really moving to see his likeness amid those who fought to preserve the inhumanity of slavery. The rest of the statues are impressive and quite beautiful, but they are framed by the even more fantastic old Victorian homes on both sides of the Avenue. Many of these have been made into apartments for students, but their external beauty is retained. Drive slowly and look at each one as you pass - you just don't see houses like that anymore, especially so many of them, except in Richmond.