Breathless in Bangkok

To use Bangkok only as a gateway to the rest of Thailand, or even Asia, would be missing out on so many fascinating experiences. Once you have left behind the sanatised civility of Don Muang Airport, the true atmosphere of Bangkok starts to take hold, a distant sprawl of existence culminating in the obligatory skyscraping obelisks. Once downtown and onto the streets, the frenetic mix of traffic, both motorised and human, creates a sea of noise and movement that tires every sense of the body. Scratch away at the surface, however, and underneath are revealed some wonderful treasures, from the opulence of The Grand Palace and Reclining Buddha to the sights and smells of the town-size market at Chatuchack.

Quick Tips:

When travelling by taxi to and from the airport, suggest they take the highway. Unused by locals, this route is the fastest way into town, ideal when, after a day’s travel, you crave a well-earned rest.

Make a trip up the Bayoke Tower, reputedly the world’s highest hotel. The view from the 64-floor viewing gallery is a must-see.

Best Way To Get Around:

While not many visitors ideal mode of transport, walking can often be quickest way from A to B and really gives you insight into the real Bangkok. Be aware, though, that, due to obvious pollution levels, limit your time spent outside.

For thrill-seekers, travel by tuk-tuk, if only once for the experience of travelling at ground level from one car exhaust to the next. Don't be perturbed if the driver spends most of the journey facing you, which just adds to the fun. Very cheap!

River taxis can provide an alternative from the manic streets, with regular services between the main temple sites. Word of caution: do as the locals do and cover your mouth. One splash from the river is enough to cut your visit short!

Taxis are generally very efficient. As with anywhere, ensure they are licensed before entering.

Car hire, not even funny!

A night out in Bangkok is not for the faint-hearted. At times, it feels as if you are entrapped in one large red-light district, so if that's not your scene, knowing where to find refuge away from the hordes of sex-seeking farangs is a must.

The Gullivers brand may be synonomous with a souless travellers home from home, but around the five-star area of Sukhamvit it provides a relaxing change of scenery, especially when with your partner. Prices may be more than average, but you can email home for free and relax in the knowledge that the only proposition made towards you will be for another drink.

If you are in Bangkok with that someone special, head to The Banyan Tree Hotel and take the lift to the roof - 61 floors up. Here you will find the Moon Bar, with the sky above it as an ideal gateway from the city below. Prices are expensive for Bangkok, but the location, ambience, and outstanding service make it well worth the visit.

Entwined in the culture of Thailand is muay Thai (Thai boxing). As soon as young Thai kids are out of nappies, they aren't kicking or throwing a ball around the street, but kicking lumps out of a leather bag and each other. Years of training follow with the hope of one day fighting in one of the two Bangkok stadiums. That dream can mean so much not just for the fighter, but also their family who often rely on their offspring to provide for them.

The spectacle of muay Thai is a must-see that begins with a deeply spiritual Buddhist ritual and continues with the echoing accompaniment of Thai instruments, which are played ever more frenetically as the fight reaches its brutal conclusion. Depending on your taste for contact sports, you may wish to be far enough away from the ring to avoid hearing the spine tingling sound of shin hitting shin. With a fiercely energetic crowd in the stands, it’s often hard to focus only on the brutal contest being staged below. Just watching the frantic gambling amongst the Thai masses also provides great entertainment.