Three Days in the Dam

Keunkenhof receives about 800,000 visitors during this 7-week showcase with more than 7 million flowers in 1,000 variations planted and blooming. The bulbs are supplied by over 100 companies and planted by over 30 gardeners starting at the end of September. To be honest, although we aren’t tour-type people, the best and most economical way to get here is through a tour. Basically, they pick you up right outside of Central Station/Dam Square and drop you off at the gates of Keunkenhof. Your entrance is paid and you have 4.5 or 5.5 hours (depending on which tour you choose) to roam. We felt that the 4-hour tour was plenty, and that gave us 2.5 hours inside the actual park. It gave us time to enjoy the gardens and greenhouses and take plenty of pictures. We even had time to get something to eat. I will say that bringing food with you, like a couple of sandwiches, is advisable, as the selection here seemed very overpriced.

We went during the opening week at the end of March, and there was plenty to see, but still only about 20% of the grounds were in bloom, mostly hyacinths, daffodils, crocus, and narcissi. We are told that everything is in full bloom at the end of April.

Bicycles are available for rent, and wheelchairs can be reserved in advance. It’s nice that all of the grounds are handicap accessible via a large street-like path so no one has to miss out.

In addition to the grounds, there are floral exhibits on display inside each of the four pavilions. This is where they had all of the different tulips and many other flowers. I would be amazed if anyone other than a botanist would be able to name half of these flowers.

There are fountains, benches, lakes with swans, peacocks (see picture) – you name it – this park has it, with a completely serene feeling. Of course, there is a charge for the bathroom, 0.25€, like most of Europe, so be prepared. There are several little shops selling everything from tulip bulbs to postcards, videos of Holland and Keukenhof, and potted plants. It’s good for all ages. If you travel with a tour bus, the admission and parking is included. Otherwise, parking your car will cost an additional 4€. We booked through the Holland Tour Company, which has offices in Leidensplein Square. It was convenient, and we booked and paid for the tickets the day before.

Overlooking the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht canals, this hotel is located near the old city center of Amsterdam, the Anne Frank House, and a 10-minute walk from Dam Square. The Pulitzer is unique because it is comprised of 25 restored 17th- and 18th-century canal houses featuring 230 guest rooms. The lobby was simple and somewhat sparse, with a small seating area, a fireplace, the front desk, concierge desk, and three small elevators (one was a service elevator)– that’s it. They did have plenty of fresh flowers around, and although the hotel was sold out (Easter weekend), it never felt that we were in a tourist-high traffic spot. There was wireless Internet access in all public areas, meeting facilities, and executive rooms, but not in our standard canal view room. There was also a business center in the front lobby where a fax, two computers, and a printer were located.

We found the concierge desk to be very helpful, even before we arrived, via email. However, their choice of restaurants did not coincide with ours, and they refused to recommend or discuss places that the hotel didn’t have a relationship with, or so it seemed. That was a minor problem because we had read about so many great places, and all they would say is, "It’s a casual place". What does that mean? The desk offered tickets for sale to the Anne Frank house and Van Gogh museum, which allowed us to skip the lines at the attractions altogether. That was a major bonus, and the cost was the same. They also had a wide variety of daily newspapers and magazines that guests were allowed to take. The entire staff spoke English fluently, and that made our trip much easier.

The rooms were a fair size for a European hotel, but the ceilings were low, so I’m not sure how someone over 6’ would fare, especially in the shower. My husband is 5’11", and his head was almost touching the ceiling while showering. There were gold comforters in the standard canal-view rooms with dark wood and limited lighting. The queen bed had two separate down comforters underneath the decorative gold one. This way, we each had our own. There was a small desk, a separate set of drawers under the TV, and a very small closet-armoire, as well – no regular closet. During the day, we were able to open our wall-length curtains, which provided plenty of light and a great view - it was the evenings that were the problem.

Although the views of the canal were pretty and the windows opened halfway, it was very noisy throughout the day and often throughout the night with cars, bicycle bells, motorcycles, and just people talking. I would recommend passing on the upgraded room and taking a garden view room to ensure a good night’s sleep. The hotel claims to offer a free daily newspaper, which we never received – not once. They also claim to offer a standard complimentary turndown service, which we requested daily and only received once. They made a lot of excuses, but no real apologies for the lack of service, either.

A safe, minibar, cable TV, robes, slippers, plenty of toiletries, a complimentary packet of waffle cookies, one complimentary bottle of water, and air-conditioning were standard here, but I would recommend bringing your own hair dryer, since these only work if you hold the button down while drying. The bathrooms were a decent size, but again, the low ceilings would be a problem for some people. The shower had a standard showerhead and an additional, moveable one. Briefly getting back to the complimentary toiletries, I could not believe the amount that was in the bathroom waiting for us. Other than the standard shampoo, conditioner, bathing gel, and lotion, there was a nail kit, shoe kit, sewing kit, shower cap, cotton balls, and face swabs, Q-tips, and bath salts. Now, if the housekeeping was slightly better and there was a little extra light, that room would have been perfect.

The Pulitzer has complimentary access to the gym, and we were told it is equipped with the latest state-of-the-art fitness equipment and individual flat screen TVs. We never got a chance to see it because we were spending our days exploring the city. In terms of dining, there were two options available to us and a third that is a seasonal (summer) dining choice. The Pulitzers Bar is a lounge-type bar with cigar smoking and is opened from 5pm–1am daily. The Pulitzers Restaurant (hello, creativity) served an international cuisine in a casual environment and was opened daily from 7am–11pm. We found the menu to be pricey, but the restaurant was always packed. In the warmer months, there is an outdoor/garden area available.

The Pulitzer was named to Condé Nast Traveler's 2004 Gold List, but I think overall the hotel was good, but not great, which is what I expect from a gold list hotel. Ultimately, I would go back there again if I booked at a good price, but not otherwise. Although it had a great location, the housekeeping was spotty, the street was very noisy, and the hotel was not five-star. Recommended.

We were lucky enough to purchase these tickets in advance through our concierge at The Pulitzer Hotel and skip the line at the museum all together. Our tickets cost 10€, and that was the same price at the door. Coat check was free and required if you had large coats or bags on your person. Booklets on the exhibits were free of charge and came in several languages. Although somewhat informative, this booklet did not even scratch the surface of what was to be seen while inside. Audio handsets were also available for 4€ each in English, Dutch, French, German, Spanish, Japanese, Mandarin, Italian, and Russian. You’ll see many people just staring off in space while listening to them. There is also a section on the second floor with flat-screen computers used as an information area called the reading room. You can search any of the paintings that are located within the museum as well, as Van Gogh’s other works, information about his life, and the museum in general - it is an excellent resource for someone looking to do extensive research.

The museum was full, but I never had the feeling of it being overcrowded, and we were able to walk with the "crowd" and view the artwork at our own leisurely pace. We went late afternoon. There were a few benches here and there for people to sit and either take a break or view/contemplate the paintings. They were far and few between, and usually full, so I wouldn’t count on them.

The museum has an elaborate and impressive selection of Van Gogh’s work (over 200 pieces arranged chronologically), and it illustrates how he developed as a person and artist. This museum holds more of Van Gogh’s work than any other – by far. It is divided by three floors and five periods of his life (which cover the 10 years he was a painter), and it’s fascinating to see the drastic way in which he changed his use of color and style throughout this time. The phases of his life and work include The Netherlands, Paris, Arles, Saint-Remy, and Auvers-sur-Oise.

Born in 1853 in the southern part of the Netherlands, Vincent was one of six children. He left school in 1868 to be an apprentice in his first art gallery. Between 1868 and 1879, he was a teacher, a preacher, and an evangelist. In 1880, he decided to become an artist while remaining in "God’s service." After taking art lessons from his aunt in 1881, he received his first commission for a watercolor in 1882. 1884 was the year he decided to be a painter of peasant workers, completing 40 peasant-head pieces. After his father died in 1885, Vincent completed his first masterpiece, "Potato Eaters."

He moved to Paris in 1886, and his artwork became brighter and the subjects became city cafés and streets. This was when he learned the techniques of neo-Impressionism. He bought a mirror and began to paint self-portraits due to the lack of affordable models. Here he painted 20 self portraits. He met Gauguin in 1887, while still in Paris.

In early ’88, Vincent heads to the South of France after feeling he can no longer get any work accomplished in Paris. It is in Provence that he begins painting landscapes, including "Sunflowers" and "The White Orchard." Gauguin joins Van Gogh in Arles in the fall of ’88, where the two friends paint together and discuss art. December of the same year, they fight and Vincent cuts off part of his left ear with a razor after threatening Gauguin with it. During the next year, he admits himself into a psychiatric hospital and paints over 150 pieces at Saint-Remy.

In spring of ’90, he leaves the hospital for Auvers-sur-Oise, where he feels he can paint and become somewhat of a recluse. By summer, he was dead in a wheatfield after shooting himself in the chest.

There are other artists included in the museum as well, such as Rembrandt and his long-time friend Paul Gauguin. I overheard many people complain that there are other artists within the "Van Gogh Museum," but I think it was a great way to break it up a little and to see what other artists were creating during the same time. The basement held special exhibits by a few less-known artists, but they were very interesting to say the least. There were plenty of children inside, but all were well behaved. It is definitely one of Amsterdam’s most visited and most popular museums.

There is a restaurant and gift shop located on the premises. The museum gift shop is extensive and has a separate area where you can purchase reprints of his work in many different sizes and literature, bookmarks, magnets, mugs, etc. Everywhere in town we saw people with blue Van Gogh bags or boxes - the museum gift shop does great business. It is open daily from 10am to 6 pm and Friday until 10pm. Adults are 10€, young adults 13 to 17 were 2.50€, and kids under 13 were free. Food and photography are not allowed – obviously. It is highly recommended.

The Anne Frank House is located in the center of Amsterdam, 20 minutes from Central Station. Annelies Marie Frank was born on June 12, 1929, in Germany to a Jewish and German family. In 1933, after Adolf Hitler came into power, the Franks left Germany. Otto left his family’s bank in Germany and opened a business in Amsterdam selling Opekta products. Less than 7 years later, Hitler invaded the Netherlands, and the persecution of Jews began. On Anne’s 13th birthday, she received a diary--a diary that would later sell 14+ million copies. In ’42, the Franks went into hiding, and in ’44, the "Secret Annex" was compromised. The families were then thrown into concentration camps. It is definitely more than I can put into words, but it was quite an experience.

When we first arrived in Amsterdam, we would pass the house and see the long lines and wonder if time would allow a visit. Although our concierge at the Pulitzer offered special tickets (admission after 4:30pm), which would allow us to skip the line, we just got lucky one day around 9am – no line. What can I say; it was interesting, upsetting, overwhelming, inspiring, and depressing- all at the same time. The house where eight people from three different families hid out in for more than two years during WWII has been kept in its original condition. When walking up to the house, what most people think is the actual house is the new museum. In fact, some people get annoyed when they see it, thinking it was renovated. Actually, the Anne Frank House is two doors down from the modern-looking museum on the corner. After paying and passing through the initial screening room, you can enter the house/annex. The building was divided into two sections: the front, which housed Otto Frank’s business and contained a warehouse on the ground floor, offices, and storerooms upstairs; and the back of the house, upstairs, where these people lived in hiding, called the Secret Annex. They could not speak or make a sound the entire day while people were working downstairs. Imagine a 13-year-old girl not allowed to make a sound all day long?!

Getting to the annex, you climb a very steep set of stairs. This tour is unfortunately not for the handicapped. You literally walk through the opening behind the famous bookcase and the experience begins. That bookcase still holds what seems to be original inventory of books from the store below. Walking through the entire annex where these people hid, seeing copies of Anne’s diaries, postcards, and items from the Frank family, was just surreal. Most of the original wallpaper is still up, with pictures that Anne herself had glued to the wall in her small bedroom that she shared with a stranger. Other than protective Plexiglas that has been put up over the walls nothing has been changed which just heightens the experience. Seeing Anne’s diaries, you come to realize that she used them as a way to deal with boredom, a way to express herself and a way to deal with the war and the world that was going on without her. Throughout the house, quotes from Anne’s journals are posted on the walls and near items on display. You really are given a chance to glimpse what life was like for her--a small glimpse. There are video screens and interviews playing throughout the house, which I found to be very informative. There is the window that gives you a clear view of the bell tower that she used to speak of in her diaries.

Towards the end of the tour, there is a video of a former classmate of Anne’s. She was the last person (on record) to see Anne alive. She spoke about throwing food and clothing over the fence of the concentration camp and how she really believed Anne would have made it out alive, had she known her father was still alive (the only person of the eight to survive). She said she thought depression was what ultimately killed Anne after hearing of her sister’s and mother’s passing (murder). There is a "media room" at the end, which is handicapped-friendly. The computers can take you anywhere in the house, describe the people who lived there, their history and plight, and the timeline of events (very user-friendly). Everything in this part of the museum is new and kept in mint condition and is also available in several languages. There is a bookstore on the premises for those who are looking to spend some extra time or walk away with a memory or a copy of Anne’s diary that has now been translated into every language imaginable.

Admission is 6.50 euros for adults, 3 euros for young adults, and children are free. Very Highly Recommended--you would be remiss if you passed on an opportunity to visit here while in Amsterdam. After all, you do have 6 million reasons.

How to explain this place and the experience – whew! Let’s start with the fact that the front door is unmarked, so if you don't have directions, you won’t find it. We got lucky and saw people walking in. That is, after we passed the door twice (which is located down a narrow walkway).

It is odd and eclectic from the minute you walk in, including the staff, with hetero and homo bathrooms (yes, men and women urinate in the same bathroom, so hold it in or let your inhibitions go). It’s first come, first serve in these four rows of beds with small silver/glass cocktail-shaped tables for your dining pleasure. The main room is a large square (holds about 150 people), with a row of beds on the right and left sides as you enter. No shoes are allowed once you walk in the door, and the steps to the upper level are steep. You are very close to the guests at the next "table," so you have to get over not having lots of space. They seat up to four people at a table and larger groups at the ends of the rows. It seems you would be better off making a few reservations for two people for larger groups, and then all arrive at the same time, allowing more space and tables. The pillows and sheets are in white, and there is a large video screen above the bar. There is loud music, lots of smoke (cigarette and pot), performance art with a DJ, and (at least the night we were there) girls kissing and then crawling over you if you are "seated" on the main level.

There is a set menu with a vegetarian option. The open kitchen serves five "light" courses over about 5 hours. The international menu varies weekly. The food was surprisingly good, overall. The soup served the night we were there was a roasted red pepper or seafood chowder. The fish (entrée) is served on the bone, so you are forced to "filet" it yourself while lying on this bed and eating off your lap. That was annoying. The vegetarian choices were excellent (all gourmet), up until the entrée, which was just a grilled platter - that was a disappointment. The beef entrée was a filet mignon. Dessert was a tiramisu and a chocolate-milk-like drink. There is a masseuse that walks around offering her services for 15€. She will do anything, from a back massage to foot massage. Surprisingly enough, there is so much downtime between meals, you can easily get a massage and not have to eat your dinner cold. This place is definitely more enjoyable if you are drunk or high truth be told. I was neither, and although I still had fun, it got old after awhile, especially considering the amount of second-hand smoke I breathed in for 5 hours. Reservations are a must, and if you don’t call to confirm that day, you are shut out. You need to be there by 7:30pm, but food doesn’t start until almost 9pm (they do this to beef up your bar tab). It’s 65€ per person, and this obviously does not include beverages, tax, or tips. Thankfully, all credit cards are accepted. There is also the Supper Club Boat Cruise if you think that might be more your speed. It is not appropriate for young adults or children. The attire was casual. It is recommended.

Boom Chicago – Leidseplein 12, Amsterdam, 31-20-530-7300, http://www.boomchicago.nl/

We saw "The Best of Boom Chicago," which started at 10:45pm and ended somewhere close to 1am. The "Best" show costs slightly more (21€ per person) but was definitely worth it. Boom Chicago is a cast of predominately American/British comedians who perform a few planned sketches but mostly improv with audience participation. It’s a no-holds-barred evening with comedy about politics, world leaders, American culture, celebrities, and some audience members. We found that your seat in the theater did not dictate whether or not you were picked on, considering most of the "lucky ones" were sitting in the rear. The cast rotates, so if you were to go more than once during your visit to Amsterdam, the likelihood of seeing the same comedian is remote. I think that adds to the charm of this place - the show is always different. I felt that the cast was very funny. They were quick on their feet, even with horrible audience suggestions and poor participants. Overall, it was a very clever production and we definitely got our money’s worth.

Just like any other comedy club, the tables are long and the seating is tight. There’s lots of smoke – as with the rest of Europe. Drinks were priced reasonably and the staff was quick. Dinner starts at 7pm, and the menu is priced at 13 to 15€ for entrées. There is a small bar and a decent-sized outside seating area in addition to the theater. Admission is between 12 and 21€, depending on which show you attend, and showtimes are between 7:30 and 10:45pm (start time).

We bought tickets in advance online, and it was really easy. We were able to pick them up at the door the night of the show. If that doesn’t interest you, buying them the day before was possible. Dinner is available, but we decided to skip it, assuming it would just be bar food and there were so many other options in Leidseplein Square. It reminded me of Second City in Chicago, but much funnier. Opened for 12 years now, with performances every night, it definitely is a great evening out while in town. It is highly recommended.

It is quaint and sophisticated but not stuffy, with delicious food and excellent service. It is located alongside one of the many canals in a very residential area. The inside is decorated in an Art Deco style with gold walls, beautiful wall fixtures, a fireplace, and fresh flowers (the only roses I saw in Amsterdam). It’s not really a place for children, but it’s a great place for a romantic evening out. They serve fusion cuisine with a small, yet complete, menu. My husband had the spicy sausage and beet soup to start with and the rack of lamb for dinner. I had the rocket ravioli for an appetizer and the vegetarian dish for dinner, which, to my surprise, was excellent. I mean unreal, with cream-cheese filled tomatoes and marinated grilled eggplant – absolutely delicious. The pastry chef prepares desserts on a small table at the back of the restaurant in open view, and she does some job – try the coconut-curry crepes! All major credit cards are accepted.

We asked our concierge at the Pulitzer about this place, and all they would say is that it was casual. We weren’t sure what that meant, but to us, this was our best dinner in Amsterdam. I’m guessing the hotel doesn’t recommend places it doesn’t get kickbacks from – who knows. It is open only for dinner. Smart attire is suggested, and reservations are suggested but not required as well. It is very inexpensive considering the quality of food. Highly Recommended.

Kantjil en de Tijger - Spuistraat 291-293, Amsterdam, 31 20 620 09 94, http://www.kantjil.nl/adam-e/index_a_e.html

"Where East meets West" - Indonesian cuisine is served almost in a diner-like atmosphere (although locals and tour guides will say it’s Art Deco). It’s located on Spui alongside many bars and other restaurants, so this is a place frequented by both locals and tourists, where the service is slow and the restaurant is packed. One menu is the list of choices and the other menu is the prices. Once you find what you want, then you cross-reference it with the price list – sort of annoying.

My suggestion would be to try one of the three very popular Rijstaffels (or rice tables), Batavia for 37.50€ per person, Kantjil for 44.50€, and Matjan for 47.50€. Rijsttafel Batavia has 11 dishes and includes pork, beef, vegetables, boiled eggs, and chicken satay. Rijsttafel Kantjil has 12 dishes and includes the same as the Batavia but has whitefish. Rijsttafel Matjan has 13 dishes, including yellow rice (the others have white) and the same as Kantjil, but it also comes with mackerel and fried chicken. All come with prawn crackers, authentic salad, grated coconut, and peanuts.

Reservations are seriously suggested despite the fact that you will probably wait to get a table regardless. We have been told and read that locals are favored – we didn’t see any evidence of that. This restaurant says it closes at 11pm, but we walked in for an 8:30pm reservation and were told they "ran out of chicken." By the time our dinner arrived, they were shutting off lights and sending wait staff home. Since it was so late (ha!), many of our dishes were being substituted for fish, which we didn’t know until we received them – even though we chose the Batavia menu, which has all meat and no fish. Many people will tell you the food is spicy, although, with a few exceptions, everything was tasty and not too spicy. There were lots of peanut flavors, though. There were á la carte items – there are plenty of them if you aren’t up for the rice table. The staff was dressed very non-traditional, with casual pants and T-shirts. The tables are small and close together. It is closed for lunch and accepts all major credit cards – casual attire. Take out is available. Recommended.

The Pancake Bakery – Prinsengracht 191, Amsterdam 31-20-625-13-33

This place advertises the "best pancakes in town since 1973." We read so much about this place before going to Amsterdam that we were convinced it was a must-stop. They open when they open (12-ish), and people actually wait outside to get in. The restaurant is in the basement part of an old warehouse building, close to the Anne Frank house and facing one of the canals. Once inside, most of the light is provided from the outside (although there are no windows), and the tables and chairs have an older dark-wood look. On the table there are a variety of syrups, powered sugar, and a large wooden bowl of molasses (they call it syrup) with a big wooden stick sticking straight up from it. This "syrup" spread on like tar it was so thick. That, we found amusing.

The premise behind their product is that the pancake (which is actually a large crepe - not an American pancake) is not just for breakfast. What I mean by that is the toppings come in just about anything you can imagine, sweet to savory, including vegetables, meats, cheeses, raisins, nuts, sauces, etc. These "pancakes" can be an anytime meal. The crepe is large, covering the size of a large dinner plate, and a filling meal, depending on which topping you choose, of course. Since it was lunchtime, I also had a cup of the tomato soup, which was like drinking a bottle of jarred pasta sauce. Honestly, the food was good but not great, and the hype is more than it’s worth. The selection is large and the service is friendly and moderately paced. I think you’d be better off going to Bagels & Coffee Shop because it was cheaper and quicker and had a similar menu. Somewhat Recommended.

In de Waag – Nieuwmarkt 4, Amsterdam, 31-20-422-7772

This is also known just as De Waag, offering international cuisine with Flemish/Dutch influences. It is in a fortress-like medieval building where Napoleon once had public executions. That being said, the authenticity of the interior and exterior is interesting and remarkable. Outside there is a very large seating area, which was packed when we were there (late afternoon), with people actually waiting in line to be seated. It is a great place to people-watch, as the square around it is bustling. Inside there were high ceilings, candles, dark furniture, and spacious seating – too bad the service sucked. I mean really sucked. The menu was limited and the waitress spoke very little English, which made the non-English (might have been Dutch) menu hard to decipher. We were never served any bread (which, as we read on IgoUgo, is just fantastic) and after almost a half-hour of waiting, had to search for our waitress to order, and then later to get a check. We ordered the cheese platter, which was large and had croquettes, cheese, olives, and a few other items but no crackers or bread. I had the pasta with tomato and basil, which was fine – hard to screw that up. I chose that for lack of other options on the menu. I don’t eat red meat but do eat chicken, fish, and turkey, which were not present on the "organic" menu. This place is as popular as it is because of the castle-like structure and history, not the food. I see no reason for it to be popular otherwise. It is casual, and no reservations are needed during the day. Not recommended at all.

Bagels & Coffee Shop– Prinsengracht, right next door (literally) to the Anne Frank House

They have the BEST poffertjes around. Poffertjes are the small Dutch pancakes served with confectionary sugar and butter only (ask for syrup and you will get molasses). They are very inexpensive and absolutely the best thing to eat in town. If I could have eaten them every day for every meal, I would have come home fat and very happy. The restaurant is small; you order and pay at the counter and the food is served to your table. They have all basic breakfast-type items: croissants, bagels, coffee, eggs, and pancakes, but don’t bother asking for cream cheese (they don’t have it) or extra butter (they get annoyed). Overall, though, the service is quicker than most places in town. They open early, which is unusual in this town, but nice if you want to get a jump start on the Anne Frank museum line. They have booth-style seating and Internet access at the front of the restaurant. It is definitely a MUST-STOP when in town. Come as you are attire, you don’t need reservations, and it is inexpensive. Highly Recommended.

Most of the homes are tall/skinny and brick with three to four stories. All have the connected-to-the-other look. Originally, taxes were paid based on the width of the house (which is why most homes are very narrow). Getting furniture through the front door became a problem, and so pulleys were attached to the front/roof part of the home for the purpose of getting furniture in. There are also houseboats (or barges) located along many of the canals. Although some are nice-looking, it gives the canals a very different look. I have never been so cautious when crossing the street, mainly due to the excessive amount of bicycles blasting by. Bicycles here are the transportation of choice by the locals, and it’s almost amusing when you walk around and see the amount of them locked to posts in town. It also seems (due to theft) that the older and more rusty the bike, the better.

Smoking is everywhere here, but considering it’s Amsterdam, there is pot as well. Although no longer legal, assuming you aren’t starting any trouble, no one bothers you. There are several "coffee houses" (bars) in town that sell pot, and many of those patrons enjoy it in-house. You can definitely tell when walking down the streets which coffee houses are traditional and which are not. Overall, people were nice, even though you could tell Americans weren’t their first choice in visitors.

Fast-food dining was a very interesting experience. Napkins were hard to come by, and we were given one paper napkin per person. Having lived in the States all our lives and having napkins by the case if we wanted, that was a challenge (we are messy people). Condiments were another story. We had lunch one day in Leidensplein and had to pay 35 cents per packet of ketchup, mayonnaise, etc. This, of course, was in addition to paying for the bathroom everywhere we went, between 20 and 45 cents.

The Red Light district was definitely a new experience for us--basically alleys, located along a few square blocks of town, surrounding the Old Church where prostitutes, scantily clad, stand in a glass doorway (in some cases, windows) with a red light above and wait for customers to pay them a visit. While "working", the curtains are pulled over the doorways. I cannot even put into words what this was like as a prude female walking around. Many of these women were young and very good-looking, and all I kept thinking to myself was, why are they doing this for a living? Yes, the money, obviously. The men we saw coming and going were from all walks of life and were having a grand old time. Surrounding these "doorways" were porn shops selling very explicit items and fast-food restaurants.

The St. Nicholas Boat Club is a non-profit organization that runs a canal cruise for tourists at no cost. Boom Chicago is where we found out about the club and where we were able to sign up for a boat ride. Our guide was American but a resident of Amsterdam for 10 years, so we were able to understand everything he was saying, both in language and analogies. Technically, there was no charge for the ride, but they did ask for 10 euros per person to cover the cost of the boat maintenance, which we were happy to pay. The trip was about 90 minutes, and we were able to get some great pictures and see a different side of the city from the water. A canal cruise is something I really recommend doing.

We were there during Easter weekend, and believe it or not, we never got to see the inside of any of churches. Our hotel was very close to the Westerkerk church, a very large (from the outside, at least) and pretty church. We would pass it every day and every night, and it was always closed, as was the Old Church in the Red Light District. That was sort of a disappointment. Dam (Damrak) Square was a large area – not like St. Mark’s Square in Venice, for example. The Damrak is the main drag where you will find the most fast-food places and tourist traps (inflated money exchanges booths, souvenir shops, etc.). Unfortunately, there was a large carnival in town – set up in Dam Square – while we were there, so it was hard to get any good pictures, and it was also hard to get a feel for what the square was really like. That was also a disappointment. The streetcars run up through the Damrak, and we found them to be a great way to get around town - very clean and very inexpensive.

Keunkenhof (see my other journal) was a real treat, and if you happen to be in town during the end of March through mid-May, check it out. It’s really an incredible sight. Vondell Park is Amsterdam’s largest park to speak of. Many people compare this to NY’s Central Park. Maybe in size, but not in content. I found there to be dog crap everywhere and no set bike paths, so you were constantly dodging cyclists. Not many benches or trees, either. There was one lake in the center, and we were told there was a theater but never saw it - that was about it.

Traveling in and out of central station was very easy. We took the train from the Schiphol Airport (AMS) to Central Station and caught a cab from there to the Pulitzer Hotel. On exiting the cab, a bicycle crashed into the cab door -welcome to Amsterdam! On the way to our next country, we again left out of central station. There are several signs, and the train conductors and station staff were very helpful. As an aside, the trains were extremely clean and an efficient way to travel.

We found the weather to be very quirky here. We would wake up, and it would be cold and damp with fog, and then, by lunch, it would be beautiful, even warm some days. By dinner, it would be pouring, and by late night, totally clear. That said, for a 3-day trip, I had to pack for at least two different seasons and a small umbrella that would fit into my bag midday when I no longer needed it. We found that the city was a casual one. By that, I’m not suggesting sweatpants and sneakers everywhere you go, but it’s not a high-fashion city like Rome, for example, where people get dressed up to do laundry.

Food was very good, and the selections were numerous here. Mayonnaise is the topping of choice on french fries, and there are as many fried potato stands in Amsterdam as there are hot dog carts in NYC. I said it in my other journal, and I will say it again: stop and try some poffertjes. They are the little Dutch pancake treats, and they are phenomenal. You would be remiss if you didn’t try them once while in town. If you’re the late night drunk-stoned wandering type, I recommend you try the FEBO, which is where you can buy "food out of the wall." It’s a small storefront that has walls of small doors with food items inside (a giant vending machine). After inserting your coins, the door is unlocked, and you can remove the item. Beer and fries are also for sale at the counter, and you will find these FEBOs everywhere. The bottom line with Amsterdam, I would say, is this: don’t visit unless you have an open mind. It’s as safe as you make it (walking around drunk at 3am will get you mugged anywhere – regardless of the country), pickpockets are everywhere (just like every other major city near tourist attractions), and it’s a nice trip on your way to or on your way around Europe. As an aside, most of the city is cobblestone, so leave the heels at home. Recommended.