Singapore: Oasis of Western Materialism

Dining, shopping, air-conditioning, and all the things you miss about your cushy life at home -- these things make Singapore an ideal rest-stop in the midst of your Southeast Asia adventures.

Quick Tips:

"You can't chew gum." This was a common reaction when I told friends and family that I was going to Singapore. The fact is, you actually can chew gum in Singapore; you just can't buy it. Much hype has been heard about the strict measures taken to ensure the safety and cleanliness of Singapore. But rest assured, if you happen to carry a pack of Juicy Fruit into the country and indulge in a stick or two, you won't get 'caned.' Why worry about all the rules and regulations anyway? If you're looking for a place to travel so you can do some crime, then steer clear of Singapore. But if you're looking for a sea of endless shopping malls and lots of really great food, then buy a ticket to Singapore today. And don't forget to pack some gum.

Best Way To Get Around:

For the budget conscience adventurer with little time, one great way to see Singapore is to take the commuter train (MRT). The train runs underground for only a few stops, so most of the time you're above ground, where you can see the neighborhoods. You don't get a real feel for the neighborhoods on the MRT tour, but you do get a good overall introduction to the place, and it only costs a buck.

On my last night in Singapore, I joined a couple of coworkers and went out to the "famous" Night Safari. They call it famous, but I had never heard of it. Next door to the city's zoo, the Night Safari is basically a zoo too, but it's open only at night. Perhaps other zoos should do the same thing, because it was the best experience with captive animals I've ever had. Animals are much more active at night, and the design of the park made it easy to get very close and see them doing what they do. We arrived late, so we only had a couple of hours to explore, but it was a great experience. Plus, it's much cooler at night.

Orchard Road is a long boulevard of giant malls and office buildings that perfectly represents Singapore's embrace of materialism. I mentioned earlier the popularity of malls as a way to avoid heat and streets, but even more important is that malls are a great place to buy stuff, and Singaporeans really seem to like buying stuff. I guess that's one reason why I say Singapore is like a suburb of America, because they share our attitude (right or wrong) that having things is really important. Plus, they all speak English.

The most encouraging sign of individuality and creativity was in the Orchard Road area, where I saw a few street performers and a live band playing in an outdoor theatre at a place called "Youth Park." Apparently, the government is taking steps to encourage their residents to be creative and unique. They've done such a good job making Singapore a nice place, I see no reason that they won't be able to create a more dynamic culture, as well.

After an awesome crab feast at Seafood Park, we all taxied on over to Clark Quay (remember, Quay is pronounced "kee") and sat along the waterfront sharing pitchers of Tiger Beer. Clark Quay is an area of shops, restaurants, and bars right along the Singapore River. Down-river just a few hundred yards is Boat Quay. Both areas are popular among tourists and locals alike, but on a weekend night, the differences are obvious. Clark Quay attracts a more mature (and mellow) crowd, while Boat Quay is packed with teenagers. At Boat Quay, aggressive bar barkers try to lure you into their establishment with drink specials and live music. Combine that with the young crowd, and the place takes on a Tijuana feel, just a lot cleaner and safer and much more expensive. On a weeknight, the Quays are jumping during happy hour, but things die down pretty early. During the day, the place is a ghost town.

At Boat Quay, aggressive bar barkers try to lure you into their establishment with drink specials and live music. Combine that with the young crowd, and the place takes on a Tijuana feel, just a lot cleaner and safer, and much more expensive. On a weeknight, the Quays (Clark Quay is a short stroll up river and much mellower) are jumping during happy hour, but things die down pretty early. During the day, the place is a ghost town.

An amusement park of seafood restaurants, East Coast Park is home to dozens of authentic and delicious eateries, including Lucky View Seafood Restaurant. Singapore's finest cuisine, giant Sri Lankan crabs, are steamed in a delicious mix of spices, accompanied by bread for dipping in the leftover sauce. The atmosphere is minimalist, offering outdoor dining with the smell of the nearby sea and messiness encouraged simply because it cannot be avoided. Wash it all down with a couple of ice-cold Tiger Beers, and you're sure to want to return to Singapore again, or at least find a place in your hometown that can do something similar. Anything like that at Fisherman's Wharf? [Tip: try "Straits Cafe" in Northern California for a similar flavor on much smaller crustaceans.]

Doug had been living in Singapore for about 2 years, and before that, lived in Malaysia and Hong Kong. I've been curious myself about the possibility of living overseas, so his was the right mind to pick. The weather? You get used to it. The benefits? A clean, safe place ideal as a base if you do a lot of traveling around Asia. The drawbacks? Not a lot of action; it's a pretty boring island.

The next night, I joined Doug again, this time with a group of his friends, all expats from such diverse places as Australia, England, Scotland, and San Francisco. A few beers later and I had them all sharing their wildest stories about living in Asia. One guy, a Scottish guy, had lived in Indonesia for a few years until the political turmoil had kicked in. He said Jakarta was his favorite city in Asia for all the same reasons that Singapore is his least favorite. Sure, he acknowledged the positives of Singapore -- the sense of safety, the cleanliness, the efficiency, the food. But he said something was missing. He had a hard a time explaining it, but everyone pitched in to try to help. Perhaps it's because you can't find anything bad to say about Singapore that makes you really try. But Singapore definitely lacks something. The prevalent opinion was that, due to Singapore's strict government control, the people lacked individuality and spirit.

Counterpoint
I doubt that many Singapore natives would agree that they lack individuality and spirit. One of the locals I met, Anna, grew up in Singapore and lives there now. She's traveled the world and spent her four collegiate years in Toronto, Canada. When I asked of her feelings about Singapore, she admitted that she does find it a bit boring, but she loves it nonetheless. The safety, security, convenience, and family values all add up to make Singapore a real home. She said she could never feel at home anywhere else, an attitude I heard echoed by many natives. Besides, she pointed out, its so easy to travel to nearby countries; you have your choice of where to go to find whatever it is you decide is fun.

To summarize, Singapore, I'd say, is a great place to go on a business trip, but it's not really a vacation destination. And it could be a great place to live, depending on what you're looking for. My suggestion is to arrange a 1-day layover there en route from somewhere in Asia to somewhere in Australia, something that I believe many airlines permit you to do. In fact, the next time I'm in Asia, I might try to swing by Singapore for another taste of those Sri Lankan Pepper Crabs.

You can read my original travelogue before it had to get split up between all these different pages, "CURT's Adventures in Southeast Asia", at http://home.comcast.net/~curt.barker/curt/travel/SEasia/SEasia.html.