Sensory Delight: Brussels, Belgium

If you are looking for the weekends, check the Internet, because a lot of the people who stay here are on business, so the price dramatically decreases by Thursday evening.

The lobby is beautiful very reminiscent of old Europe. With its elaborate molding and beautiful décor, you feel like you should be dressed to the nines and be mistaken for a movie star. In addition to the lobby being beautiful, the service is first-class. I was meeting my party here, and they had no problem separating out luggage, giving us directions, or putting us in rooms next door to each other.

The rooms had just been redone when we stayed there (about 1 1/2–2 years ago). They were fairly large by European standards, and the bed was extremely comfortable, and there was a lot of storage space. We were able to spread out and enjoy our stay instead of feeling like we were cramped in the closet of someone’s house (like some hotels make you feel). The colors were very complementary; our room was done in hues of blue, while the other room was done in shades of yellow. The rooms were always clean, and we never felt rushed to leave the room to go and sightsee/eat/drink/shop.

The breakfast was the best part of this entire deal. We made my dad go and change his shoes once because we felt that he wasn’t formal enough. This is my family, though--we like to do everything correctly and everything formally. Breakfast is served in the ballroom and is a huge European spread. There is everything from simple French bread to chocolate-filled croissants, fresh fruit, hard-boiled eggs, cereal, yogurt, cheese, and a variety of juices, coffee, and tea.

In addition, you must have a drink in the bar at this hotel, regardless of whether you stay here or not. I prefer the outside one, but either way, it is beautiful. Everything is very ornate, very classic, very elegant, and somewhat overpriced. Outside, the chairs and tables are rattan, and inside, it is much more formal. Try a Belgian beer (they have over 500) or a glass of wine, or even an after-dinner drink. We had such a good time having drinks here that we consider it a Brussels experience and have even framed the receipt.

Jerome Duquesnoy made the statue the Elder in 1619. It is sculpted out of bronze and during its existence ahs been stolen, smashed, rebuilt, and much, much more. Therefore, the history behind the Manneken-Pis is long, if not distinguished.

Perhaps the most notable thing about the statue is that on special occasions, he is dressed up in outfits. I believe that this is every second Tuesday and special events (check on the dates--I don’t want you to go on the wrong day). He has received outfits from all around the world and everyone from state leaders to girl scouts to the Elvis fan club. I believe that there is a museum nearby that displays all of his outfits if you are interested. One of the days that I was there, he was dressed as a Swiss guard, and let me tell you, it is a very elaborate dress.

Just to let you know, there is an iron gate that surrounds the Manneken-Pis, and it can be quite high for some people. It is sometimes necessary to go back a bit in order to get a better view, but be aware of the cars that will not stop for you.

If you are interested in purchasing a souvenir of the statue, there are plenty of shops nearby. They have a wide range of Belgian trinkets in these stores, as well as the symbol of the Manneken-Pis on every possible souvenir that you could ever think of.

The Manneken-Pis is a short walk from La Grande Place; I would guess about three blocks. Therefore, it is entirely possible to do both of Brussels monuments in the same day.

While the statue may be nothing more than a little boy relieving himself, it is considered a part of Belgian/Brussels history, and I would suggest, if you are in Belgium, taking a look at the little boy.

Several of the buildings here are former Guild Houses, and it's possible to tell which ones are which depending on how they are decorated architecturally from the outside. An example of this: you can tell which building used to be the guild house of the shipbuilders because there are marine symbols on the building. If you are interested in this particular type of history, I would suggest taking a tour, because you will be able to learn more with a guide than simply by reading the pamphlets.

In addition to the guild houses, one of the buildings was the former residence of Victor Hugo. For those of you who may have forgotten history/literature, he is the individual who wrote both The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Miserables. He actually described La Grande Place as the most beautiful square in the world. You should take a look and see for yourself.

The city hall was built in the 15th century, and you can tell the distinct difference in the building styles from this building and the guild houses. This is the building with the dominant bell tower that will be a focal point of several of your pictures. Here also is the lion’s staircase, always a good place to snap a few photographs. I would also suggest this as a meeting place if you are trying to gather a group, because simply saying La Grande Place does not narrow it down enough. Also, if you are lucky, you may catch a couple getting married, since everyone in Belgium is required to have a civil ceremony and many go to the Town Hall to perform this observance.

Opposite the Town Hall is the Maison du Roi (even though not a single King lived here). The majority of this building was rebuild in the 19th century; it is ornate and large and houses a museum inside.

In addition to simply the buildings, there are many bars/pubs/restaurants on La Grande Place. I would strongly suggest coming here at night for a drink (have a Belgian beer), sitting by the window, and simply enjoying the view. Between the people, the architecture, and the setting, it will be an experience you won’t forget.

My final bit of advice is to visit La Grande place twice. I know you are probably busy on your whirlwind tour of Brussels, but you won’t regret it. Visit La Grande Place the first time during the day and the second time at night. There will be a remarkable change in what you are seeing.

Brussels is considered by most of Europe (except the French) to be the capital of Europe, and for 3 weeks out of the month Brussels is flooded with diplomats, aids, members of parliament, and anyone else you can imagine who would aid in the progress of Europe (the other week they are in Strasbourg, France). This being said, the European Union has just revamped/rebuilt several of their buildings. Most notable is the Parliament building.

Close to the entire outside of the building is glass, where the blue skies of Belgium (when it isn’t raining) add to the charm of the building. In between the mass amounts of glass is marbel and granite as a statement to the grand style of the building.

You do not need to make any reservations to tour the European Parliament building. There are audio-tours that you can take from 10am to 3pm (Monday to Friday). The main focus of this tour is the Hemicycle of the Parliament; Michel Boucquillon designed it. While the tour can be quite dull if there is nothing going on in parliament, it is much more exciting if you can find a debate. Either way, sneak a peek into the large debate rooms. The glass booths that line the walls are where all the translators sit; remember that there is no official language of the EU, and when I was working there were 12 languages being translated. Now there are many more. You may also catch sight of a foreign dignitary while here; people have been known to see Colin Powell, Jacques Chirac, and Tony Blair while taking a tour. Keep your eyes open!

While you may not care about the debate going on, it is kind of interesting to sit in on a session and see how legislation in the European Union is made (at least on the Parliamentary level). I would also suggest having a snack here if you have the time; everything is government subsidized, meaning you can get a cappuccino for .90 euro and a sandwich for 1.5 euro (you won’t find a better deal in Brussels).

There are several shops in the buildings of the parliament, and they offer great deals on EU souvenirs, flags, pins, mugs, and pens are favorites all around. Also, if you are desperate for a newspaper in your own language, this may be one of the best places to find one. There are several places to find maps and info sheets on the EU, so pick up a few--they can help you.

I would suggest getting off at the Schumann metro stop (he is considered the father of the EU, after all) and walking to the Parliament building. It will give you a greater understanding of what Brussels really is: the capital of the EU.

The best time to visit Rue Neuve is in January. I know it’s not exactly the middle of tourist season, but if you are here at that time, you hit the sales! The sales are huge, and you can get a new wardrobe for a fraction of what it would cost any other time. An example of this is when I bought a pair of pants for 5€ that were originally 65€! How can you beat that? The price was so good that I had to buy my sister a pair as well, plus they are one-of-a-kind, so there is always a good story there.

If you are interested in looking at a large department store, I would check out INNO. It has everything from drugstore cosmetics to designer bags. I found some great deals on accessories here and bought a ton of patterned nylons and scarves (they were the best prices around). Also, Clinique is made in Belgium, so if you are a fan of this cosmetic’s brand, I would suggest stocking up.

Rue Neuve is a street with numerous other shops besides simply INNO. It also has H+M (they have three separate shops); Zara, a slightly more upscale H+M; Etan; Benetton; shoes stores galore; cosmetic stores; and places for luggage. I found a great deal on a large duffel bag that I bought in order to bring home all the new stuff I acquired after being in Europe for 6 months.

Rue Neuve also has City Mall 2, which, I believe, is only one of several "malls" in Belgium. It is interesting to go there just to see the difference between the American concept of a mall and the Belgian one.

While Rue Neuve is nothing particularly Belgian, it has European fashions if you are looking for them. This is where you will find the clothes that everyday Europeans are wearing that will make you distinct in the US. Plus, if you go in January, you can’t beat the prices.

The first thing you will notice about the street is the amount of noise; there are waiters and maitre’ds in front of every restaurant. They will hawk at you to come in and try their food - it’s the best on the row. If you go during a slow night/off-season, you can really work with them. If you keep on walking by, they will continue to lower their prices or throw more things in for free. A lot of the times, the menus are fixed price, where you receive an appetizer, entrée, and dessert all for one price. You usually have your choice of three to four items in each category. What will happen is, if you start to walk away, they will throw in an aperitif or a half a bottle of wine or something like that.

My family decided that we would work the system a little bit; we each split up and tried to figure out who could get the best deal. Well, my mother and I thought we had the advantage. After all, we were the ones who spoke French, and my sister usually just has to smile to get her way. Well, when we regrouped, my sister had gotten a 15% taken off the final bill as her best offer. I had one place offer me a free bottle of wine and 15% off the bill. My mother, the tough negotiator, only got a free appetizer. And my father, who speaks not a word of French or Flemish but is one of those people that everyone loves, somehow managed to get a free bottle of wine and 50% taken off the check. Guess where we were going to dinner…

We ate at this adorable restaurant and ordered mussels and seafood paella. At this place, the paella also included lobster (be wary that not everyone’s paella does so - look for the word homard, French for lobster, as otherwise, you may be taken for a ride). We ate outside. In March, there were heaters and an awning overhead. Eating outside or by the windows if the rain is too much is the way to go here. It will allow you to watch everything that is happening on the street. It’s a great place to get good food and a great place to people-watch!

Have fun and look for a good bargain. They may be difficult to find, but you can.

The decor is nice, a little eclectic, but nothing to make you feel too uncomfortable. There are tables and chairs spread out along the parameter, so even if you don’t feel like dancing, you can watch everyone else and enjoy a drink.

You don’t need to wait until a fashionable hour to start the party here. We came at 10pm (okay, maybe it was closer to 10:30pm after we stopped getting lost), and the party was already in full swing. There wasn’t that long of a line, and I think admittance was 5€ for guys and it might have been free for ladies. There is a coat check, so there is no need to freeze in the Belgian rain.

The music is an interesting mix of everything. There is ‘70s, ‘80s, ‘90s, and modern music. It isn’t your techno club, so if this is what you are looking for, I would suggest you find another place to visit. I also thought that it was interesting that, at one point, they played the Belgian national anthem and everyone stopped and sang it. I would strongly suggest you coming here if you are looking for the true Belgian experience. A lot of the music was in English, but there were several times when they played French or Belgian music, sometimes with an African flare. Basically, there is a huge variety of stuff to listen to here.

Drinks are reasonably priced, so you won’t go too broke here. Also, the club stays open relatively late/early in the morning. We left around 4am, grabbed some food, and then took the first metro back home.

I would suggest Chez Johnny if you are looking for more than just a bump-and-grind club. This place infuses a bit of Belgian culture into everything they do and is worth a look.

Galeries Saint-Hubert was built in 1848 and is well-known for the beauty of its architecture in addition to its place as the first indoor mall. Instead of the traditional roof you would see in many of the malls around here, Galleries Saint-Hubert has a glass room. It allowed for the different shops along the street to be joined together and protected from the elements (think rain - it is Belgium after all). Due to the fact that the roof is actually a series of glass arches, it allows sunlight in (when there is some) and creates a nice glow to the area. If you travel around Europe, you will notice this design in some other prominent cities, most notably Milan, where you feel like you are looking at the same mall.

There are three different areas of Galeries Saint-Hubert where the influence from the Italian Renaissance appears everywhere. The majority of the work is a rose color, and there are large windows everywhere. Take a few minutes to look around; this is truly an amazing bit of architecture.

Now onto the shopping! Most of Galeries Saint-Hubert shops are post boutiques that only the rich can afford to shop at. Yet, there is also a day spa located within the Galeries Saint-Hubert, bookstores, a theater, a movie theater, and much more. Most notable perhaps is the flagship shop for Neuhaus chocolates, some of Belgium’s most divine creations. I would suggest going in and trying a bonbon or two.

In addition to a copious amount of shops, there are also some very elegant cafés and restaurants located in here. While both may be a little pricier than the average Belgium establishment, think of the fact that you are having a cup of coffee or some mussels in the first shopping mall in the world. In addition, here you can always sit outside and enjoy the weather, because there is no threat of rain (and many establishments have small heaters for their outside patios). I would strongly suggest taking a moment here and relaxing and looking around. Here, you will see everyone, from Brussels wealthiest to tourists. Sit back and enjoy.

Finally, when you are lingering over your wine or coffee, look up to the second floor. These are apartments that are rented out and actually inhabited in by individuals. It was one of the goals of the Galleries Saint-Hubert to mix commerce and people or the private sector. Therefore, they built the apartments above the shops; they are some of Brussels most coveted pieces of real estate today.

While you may not do as much shopping as you thought at the Galleries Saint-Hubert, you will walk through a slice of history.

My advice is to try out several of the waffle places. If you are on vacation, you will only be able to have them for as long as you are in Belgium, embrace them! Belgian waffles are nothing like the ones that America has coined "Belgian waffles". In Brussels, the waffles are made out of thicker dough and therefore are chewier. They are unusually sweet and are slightly crunchy on the inside but amazingly delicate in the inside. In other words, they taste as good as they smell! Words of advice, though: don’t buy a waffle from anywhere where you don’t see them making the waffles. This may mean that they simply bought the waffles pre-made and heated them up. And while these packaged waffles are good to take home to families and friends, they do not compare to the real thing.

I would also suggest combining two of Brussels' most notorious treats, waffles and chocolate! There are several stands around town that place copious amounts of liquid chocolate on the waffles, making them a decadent, calorie-ridden treat. My advice is to get a lot of extra napkins for this one--it will end up everywhere.

In addition, there are several restaurants that will serve you waffles as a dessert. These are the high-class brother to the ones you find on the street. They usually involve chocolate, ice cream, fruit, or some combination of all three. I would suggest a strawberry and ice cream one in a restaurant. The strawberries are a very nice compliment to waffles, and who doesn’t love ice cream?

Don’t get confused if you smell the amazing smell but then see Gauffres written on the stand. This is just the Flemish word for waffles, and you will find the same delectable treat inside. You must indulge in waffles while in Brussels; they are light, airy, sweet, and wonderful.

I would strongly suggest riding the metro in Brussels; I have never experienced a problem with it at all. I rode the metro every day to work, to school, in the morning, afternoon, evening, late night, and early the next morning. I have never felt unsafe in the metro and feel like it is the easiest way to get around. In fact, you can take it to the train stations, in case you are continuing your journey onward. You can’t beat the price (it's cheaper than a cab), and most of the time you will have a seat to sit in.

The metro stations and the metros themselves are clean, respectable, and do not give off that aura of crime that they sometimes do in other countries. Every station has a different theme, and they are decorated by Belgian artists to reflect this theme in everything from the walls to the chairs that are provided for you to sit on while you wait (a nice touch). Another nice touch is the fact that the metro stations all have a little sign that will tell you where each train is and how many minutes it will take the train to get to you.

Several of the larger stations have stores, restaurants, chocolate shops (check out the Leonidas), shoe shines, and everything that will make your day easier. A lot of these places are closed on Sunday, so be aware of that. But other than Sunday, you can stop and get a croissant or a newspaper to read, or perhaps you're in the mood for a knock-off purse. Several of the stations have these, as well.

Every state was clean and had at least one attendant there in case there was a problem. I was there once and had to fetch the attendant to help a person who collapsed. They can also help you with directions, and most speak English.

There are only two lines to the Brussels metro, so you can’t get too lost. And if you do get lost, there are maps posted everywhere. My only complaint is that the metro closes too early (well, at least while I was in college). It closes at 11pm on the weekdays and midnight on the weekend, but then it does start up again at 5am. So you could do what we did a few times and take the last metro into the city and the first metro out.