En Guate '05- Coban!

Central Plaza-
Visit the strangely shaped plaza that sits at the highest point of Coban. It is the best spot from which to people watch and the old church is very pretty.
Lanquin Caves-
A popular day trip from the city lands you at these huge caves where descendants of the Maya still perform rituals.
Semuc Champey-
Paradise on earth! The natural phenomenon of a river plunging into an underground cavern creates a mysterious bridge of limestone that cradles pools of spectacular blue and green water.

Quick Tips:

If you have more time than I did in Coban, try to see:
Vivero Verapaz- An orchid farm with over 20,000 plants. Best to go when most are in bloom early in the year.
Finca Santa Margarita- A large coffee finca that offers tours on the coffee process.

And in general, when in Coban, BUY COFFEE! That's what the region is known for. You can buy it fresh, delicious, and cheap here.

Best Way To Get Around:

Getting to Coban:
There are shuttles from Antigua and Guatemala City or Pullman buses. Shop around for a reputable travel company to get you there. Taking a form of transportation that is not direct can add hours to the already lengthy journey.
Taxi-
You shouldn't need a taxi in Coban because it's so small, but if you get lost or have a ton of luggage, you can find taxis lined up at the west end of the central plaza.
Hoof It-
The streets of Coban are steep; it feels a little like San Francisco. But why climb all the way up the steepest streets to find taxis at the plaza? Besides, it's good exercise just to walk!

According to the guidebooks I consulted, Hostal D'Acuna was the place to stay. As I wearily left the Monja Blanca bus north of town and hopped a taxi, I was confident that I'd find great accommodations here. The taxi dropped me off by the sign that said Hostal D' Acuna, and I asked the driver to wait while I made sure there'd be room for me to stay that night. I stepped inside the doorway into a green courtyard, but no one was around. Next to me was a pastry cabinet filled with goodies, and in the back of the courtyard were the tables of an empty restaurant in mid-afternoon. Where was the reception? Where was the staff? Eventually, after searching hurriedly, I found an annoyed local who waved me across the street into a small tienda that was indeed the hostel's reception area as well.

For Q100, we were given the only available private room--one basic and mildly comfortable bed in a tiny room with literally no room for our two bags or to manuever. Later that night, after a huge storm knocked out the electricity, the hostel's generator kicked on right outside the window, buzzing angrily through my best ear plugs. Across the hallway, dorm rooms were filled with four to eight 20-something travelers each, gabbing and playing cards. Once the electricity came back on and the generator ceased, a group of those travelers replaced the annoyance outside our window by standing outside, blowing cigarette smoke into the room, and exclaiming, "No way!" a lot. The next day, when we wanted to "upgrade" to a private room with seperate beds, we were given the same-size room with child-size bunk beds. This, at least, gave us the room to set our bags down on the floor, a wastebasket, and a child-size table and chair. The noise issue here was being closer to the dorms and sharing a wall with the bathrooms, whose hot water pipes squealed and tapped out a morse code as they expanded or shrank.

Hostal D'Acuna's saving grace is the endlessly warm showers and clean bathrooms--an orgasmic experience after a sluggish and cramped 10-hour bus adventure from Antigua. And beyond that, Hostal D'Acuna offers through its restaurant scrumptious and creative cuisine (something the guidebooks were right about). It's also very convenient to stay at the hotel through which we organized the next day's tour to Semuc Champey and the Lanquin Caves.

This is where Hostal D'Acuna shines. Their meals are fabulous. Meals here cost a pretty penny, but are definitely worth it, if only for one night. Located at the back of the hostel’s courtyard, the restaurant offers both indoor and outdoor seating. Our waiter was very friendly and accommodating, making sure that we had a bouquet of fresh flowers on our table and that we were kept dry as the rain began to fall. His spirits were high and smile bright, even as the lightning picked up intensity and the electricity was knocked out. Lucky for us, our entrées were being cooked over an open grill, and even in the storm, the cook took great care in the preparation and the smoke enticed our growing appetites.

The seemingly simple appetizer of chicken soup was a surprise. Obviously made from scratch, it was rich and hearty, with lots of cilantro and a garnishing of spicy red-pepper flakes. It came with a choice of breads, of which we chose pan de campo, a hot multigrain loaf that tasted like a sourdough wheat. Roasted garlic was added per our server’s recommendation.

These starters were complimentary to our meals. Mine was the classic camarones al mojo de ajo (grilled prawns) Q100 and Maranno-Costillas de Bourbon (pork ribs in a bourbon sauce) Q80. Sides available were rice or veggies (seasoned broccoli, carrots, and zucchini). Dad, of course, enjoyed a Gallo beer, Guatemala's favorite, and I, a scrumptious banana licuado, my favorite. Everything on our plate was fresh, tasty, and filling, despite a huge storm raging overhead and no electricity. This earns the restaurant high marks in my book, and I would definitely go back.

The tour through Hostal D'Acuna, although expensive, is a good idea for the ease and comfort of going with a group and tour guide to Coban's two greatest nearby sights. The all-day day tour costs a hefty Q250 per person, but includes both a tour of the incredible Lanquin Caves and several hours at heavenly Semuc Champey. Transportation, two meals, and entrance into both parks is included.

The hostel provides a nice breakfast at their restaurant before departure, which consists of hot coffee, fresh-squeezed orange juice (that tasted mostly like the rind), a fruit salad of banana, papaya, pineapple, and cantaloupe, along with fresh bread and jam. It was simple, but very fresh and filling.

Our guide, Rene, was very friendly and did a good job explaining what we were seeing and helped us physically if we encountered anything remotely hazardous. He was also capable of remaining quiet for most of the drive to and from while we enjoyed the pools of Semuc Champey. Because of that, the day was so relaxed, I almost forgot I'd paid for a typical tour.

Lunch was also provided and was very delicious. Our sack included a large subway-type sandwich with tomato, lettuce, onion, cheese, and meat, if requested. We also had an apple, cool bottle of water, and two fresh-baked oatmeal cookies. We were allowed plenty of time to eat and were never interrupted.

Our transport was a newer style shuttle bus, and our driver one of the safest I've encountered in Guatemala. Both the driver and Rene assisted a truck that had become stuck in the mud, and also begged our way across a bridge that was under construction and barely passable. Both obstacles could have ended our day abruptly if not for their local connections and knowledge. And I'll never forget how Rene swooped in to grant my wish when I saw a cacao (chocolate) tree with a ripe pod dangling and longed for it. It had been several years since I'd enjoyed the fruit, and Rene made it happen. For these reasons, I wouldn't have wanted to attempt the day without him.

Cost of Admission = Q25 (March '05)

Semuc Champey is truly a natural wonder and not to be missed! I'd read all about it before ever arriving there, but I have to say that I was still overly amazed at what I actually saw.

What is the park of Semuc Champey? It is a unique stretch of the Cahabon river that plunges with immense force into an underground cavern. The sight of that alone is absolutely exhilarating. The water gains so much momentum before being sucked underground that the ground is carved into a semi-circular shelf of rock. One can imagine how many years the water has done this to create such formations in stone.

Above the spans of river that is raging beneath ground, a curious series of calm and clear pools trickle into one another. The water in these pools is a bright bluish-green, clear as ever (even after a rain storm the night before!), and overloaded with masses of brown fish. Locals stand on the lip of these pools with machetes and strike the water with the blade. The strike shocks the fish just long enough for the fisherman to scoop up the unsuspecting fish. Indeed, those fish were so unlike any others I'd ever encountered. When I dangled my feet in the water, they'd swim up and encircle my feet, nibbling gently at me and not afraid at all. They ate anything thrown into the water including tomato, lettuce and oatmeal cookie and they'd cause a huge bubbling swirl of water as they fought for the bits.

The park was very quiet besides the fishermen and the other group of tourists who took turns at a rope swing. The pools were of varying depths, with smooth limestone bottoms and were just the perfect temperature for swimming. Downriver from where the pools trickle away, the Cahabon rejoins its regular route above ground in a very subtle way. The forests around the river are diverse and largely intact. Trails are built above ground near the water's edge to preserve the many streams and pools at the river's edge. And other trails run away from the river, highlighting the unique plant life and leading to a mountaintop vista of the Semuc Champey pools. Trees with huge roots line the shore. Honestly, I haven't seen many places in my life I would consider as close to true paradise as this. It must be included in anyone's itinerary to this part of Guatemala.

The Lanquin Caves have a long and interesting history. It was, and still is, used by Mayan Indians who believed strongly in a link between the underworld and this world, with caves being important as a bridge between the two.

The cavern is a piece of history, and it is incredibly interesting to visit. It lacks the built-in safety features one would see in caves used for tourism in the US. The cave is extremely slippery. I'd been warned, but even my best shoes had me slipping and sliding. Another tourist, Andreas from Germany, slipped as if on a banana peel and injured his arm and hit his head on the cave floor. Luckily, he was able to continue. There were no helmets issued and few handrails to use. This made the trip seem very exciting to me, but had I been the one injured, I probably would have felt differently.

Rene found us various bats high above us clutching to the dark ceiling and a gigantic cave bug that Rene swore was harmless. He did not, however, warn us, until we'd slipped 2 inches from a nest and had been putting our hands wherever we wished, about the cave spiders who laid eggs in human skin. As far as I know, I escaped contact with those critters.

Rene offered to take us out of the cave the "adventurous" way, which required us to wriggle through a tiny slippery crag in the rocks and climb upwards 8 feet to a ledge above us. Always the helpful guide, Rene grabbed our arms and pulled us up just before we fell or when our bodies seemed stuck.

Sadly, Rene admitted that use of the caves by humans, and especially tourists, is contributing to the death of the cave system itself. It was the only cave I've entered with a higher temperature than the outside air, a direct result, Rene said, of the damage that's been done to the cave. Many of the cave’s features are suffering badly from the bright lights strung inside the caves, candle offerings, and every step and touch a visitor takes. This guilt dampened my spirit and experience in the cave, especially since I try so hard to avoid harmful forms of tourism, and this is why I can't fully recommend this excursion. But I'll have to admit that I really enjoyed our little adventure here.

Not all travel agencies in Antigua are the same. They hang the same signs outside advertising great prices to all destinations Guatemalan, but be forewarned: shop around.

Shalom Travel Center (1a Calle Poniente No. 24 A) sold us a "shuttle" ticket to Coban for US$13 each. This was one of the lower prices advertised in Antigua. Victor, behind the front desk, was friendly and efficient, and our ticket for the next morning was bought with ease. But that was all very misleading. Getting to Coban was a long and tiring experience. Cheap as it was, our money was ill spent.

The next morning, we were ready to go at 8:30am, but the shuttle didn't arrive for another 40 minutes. And we were the first passengers to be picked up! So the shuttle bumped along Antigua's maze of cobblestone streets for another 50 minutes, gathering up another two passengers. We had to stop at various tour agencies and compare our tickets to theirs for reasons unknown. In morning traffic, it took us almost an hour to reach the capital, and that's when we learned that our other passengers weren't going to Coban, but to the airport. So much for servicio directo.

My father and I were then dropped, to our surprise, at the local Monja Blanca bus station in downtown Guatemala City, where our shuttle driver bought us seats for Q40 and left us there to wait. Abandoned in the bus station, we waited another hour for the next Monja Blanca public bus to leave for Coban. So much for a shuttle at all.

We climbed into seats nos. 3 and 4, right up front, and stowed our bags safely underneath. The bus was one step up from a chicken bus, that is, until a lady climbed on with her chicken. The driver was just as crazy as the others, passing on ridiculous blind curves and pealing into the lanes for oncoming traffic. The bus stopped for every person who flagged us down and at every group of buildings that resembled a town. Our progress was slow. But truthfully, the part of the journey that was least satisfying was the scenery. During the dry season, the hills look barren and almost scorched. It's only when the road begins to climb towards Coban that the greenery returns and the countryside becomes quite beautiful. There are evergreen trees and ferns along the roadside, along with streams and unique plant life. With only one break at a very clean bus stop at the Atlantic Highway turnoff from the capital to Coban, the trip was another 5 hours. A very long day...