California's Central Coast

Driving on Highway 178 through the beautiful Kern River Canyon about 40 miles north of Bakersfield, you’ll encounter one of the region’s best-kept secrets—Miracle Hot Springs. In the early 20th century, there was a spa-resort here that took advantage of the hot springs’ 119°F water. It burnt down in 1975, and now all that remains are some stones that were stacked to form bathing pools.

From our campground (described below), we walked over the trails until we found the unmarked site. The water level was low that day, but there were still three separate bathing pools of differing temperatures. The heat and sulfuric smell of the upper pools drove my kids below to where the spring water mixes with the river. I soaked (more like steamed) in the upper pool. We had a good time there climbing over the rocks as we relaxed for a couple of hours, then dressed and walked back to camp.

The kids Hobo Campground is a primitive campsite. But, for what it lacks in facilities, it makes up for in scenery, tranquility, and proximity to Miracle Hot Springs. Reservations can be made by calling 760/376-1815, but it’s rarely full. A volunteer attendant lives in a camper on site. The campground itself is situated at the base of the Kern River Canyon and offers somewhat secluded tent sites along the river. Fire Rings and water are available at each site. Firewood is readily available along if you look on the trails out from the camp a bit. One can find a shower, Laundromat, and groceries 5 miles away in nearby Lake Isabella. We cooked some fantastic burgers over the fire there, played games, and settled in for a great night’s sleep.

As we drove north from Santa Cruz on Highway 9, we passed through Boulder Creek. I couldn’t resist stopping for coffee in the general store/bakery. The pace of life here seems much more laid-back than in the coastal towns in which we’ve spent most of our trip. Bolder Creek makes an excellent base from which to explore the state park.

Big Basin Redwoods was California’s first state park, established in 1902. Its main feature is its 18,000 acres of old, towering redwood trees. This is the largest stand south of San Francisco. They are simply awe-inspiring. We spent around 2 hours walking the cool, shaded trails nearest to the park headquarters where the two largest trees in the park are found: the Mother and Father of the forest (largest diameter and tallest respectively). It was all very serine. I couldn’t help but feel closer to nature somehow as we wandered at this very special piece of God’s creation.

The park offers over 80 miles of multipurpose trails that access even more old-growth forest and some waterfalls. Several of these trails tie into others that extend beyond Big Basin’s borders. Maps and advice are available at the park headquarters. We did not camp here, but the sites looked great. Signs recommend that you make reservations by calling 831/338-8860.

After seeing the redwoods here, I am eager to someday walk among the giants in Northern California as well.

So much on one pier... We really enjoyed this part of San Francisco. Pier 39 houses several shops, art studios, a merry-go-round, restaurants, boat docks, and bars. Our favorite activity there was watching the sea lions lounge off the end of the pier. There were so many of them. I photographed and the kids pointed as the seals barked and sea gulls swooped overhead. It was all a bit touristy, but a fitting antidote for the kids since I'd had them "in the woods" so to speak for a week now. Overall, it was a great time. If you’re in San Francisco, you should go to the wharf.

One can't imagine the size of this estate until you take the tour. Or, should I say a tour, since the castle is so big that they offer five touring options. William Randolph Hearst hailed from a wealthy family that had established itself in the silver trade. William made himself into a multimillionaire through the publishing industry. He constructed this 165-room castle-ish complex and stocked it full of lavish art and accessories. The display of wealth borders on obscene. Still though, it’s worth seeing once. I recommend calling in advance at 805/927-2020 or referencing the website for details on which tour is right for you (if any). See www.hearst-castle.org.