Genova?? I thought this was Portofino!!

We awoke, anticipating the picturesque port of Portofino; instead we found Italy’s largest, busiest harbor, Genova! "Bad water" and weather conditions would not allow our cruise ship to dock in Portofino. So we set out to Genova with folding umbrellas and Guide Book in hand and not a clue!

We managed to "save the day" and enjoyed an impromptu, yet great experience! From the Via Garibaldi -- the street of patricians, to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo with its medieval flavor and picturesque towers, we found this totally unplanned expedition and a fun and exciting experience.

Quick Tips:

Since this was an "unplanned" stop and we had no itinerary, we used cabs to get around. Cabs were inexpensive, plentiful, drivers were polite and helpful--but the driving is VERY scary!

Best Way To Get Around:

You won’t be disappointed at Antica Osteria dei Bai. The service here is modern elegant, and professional with tables graced in fine linens and silver service plates. The owners here run a tight ship with all fish and seafood impeccably fresh on this Mediterranean inspired menu.

Pastas are all homemade, seasonal vegetables like artichokes and porcini mushrooms are paired with fish and pastas. Save room for cheese, either first-class Italian or imports from Europe. Well-chosen wines are treated with respect, served in large crystal wineglasses, a great excuse to drink . The dessert menu pairs fine dessert wines with all offerings.

Regional Specialties

The Linguria region is known for its seafood's, including sea bass, squid, octopus and anchovies. Dishes include Zuppa Di Datteri (a type of chowder made with tiny razor clams, unique to the area).

Pesto is the regional famous pasta sauce made with pine nuts, garlic, oil, cheese and basil.

Vitello Cima: Stuffed Veal

Drink Specialties

A variety of light white wines--Pigato and cinque Terre.

Rosas’ and dolce aqua are delightful red wines of the area

Genova is noted for its medieval churches and this is one of the best. The San Lorenzo Cathedral is located within the heart of old Genoa. This medieval cathedral was consecrated in 1118 and named after St. Lawrence, who passed through the city on his way to Rome. For hundreds of years, the building was used for both state and religious purposes.

San Lorenzo is beautifully constructed with a striking contrast of black slate and white marble. The black-and-white pattern adorns the facade in the Pisan style and spread over the upper rows of the facade; these rows belong to different periods. Dating from the 13th century, the columns were rebuilt at the beginning of the 14th century and present the same two-colored pattern. The beautiful barrel vaults along the aisles, the dome, bell tower or campanile, and the apses area were all elegantly designed and date back to the 16th century.

The Chapel of St. John the Baptist, with interesting Renaissance sculpture is said to contain remains of the saint for whom it was named.

REMEMBER: proper attire is required in churches, cathedrals and sacred places. Shorts for both men and women are considered improper and women should also cover their bare arms.

Admission is free. Tues-Sat 9-11:30am and 3-5:30pm

Via Garibaldi is a fantastic Street for shopping in Genova. Take a short walk along this popular street once called the Golden Road. Just a short distance from the city center and the Piazza de Ferrari, The Via Garibaldi is a typical representation of Renaissance town planning.

Designed and built by the powerful and wealthy families of Genoa. Shop at piazza Della Vittoria where you can walk along Via Venti Settembre, a main commercial street with shopping in many stores.

Church bells chimed and we heard strong tenor voices echoing throughout many of the tiny alleys. And above us, the ever present geranium gardens from every window.

Shoping specials: Gold and silver--sinple charms are quite reasonable, pill boxes, napkin rings, photo frames, cruet sets, sugar bowls and candlesticks

Ceramics--Ornaments and statuettes for every taste

Straw work --Attractive straw bags, sunhats etc.

Good buys in velvet, olive wood and marble

OUR CHOICE: A lovely hand crafted cruet set, hand made in Sterling--163,000 lira (about $85 US)

Most shops are opened daily, but close down from 12 Noon to 2pm.

HOW DID WE END UP IN GENOA?? We had a perfectly planned itinerary for the quaint little town of Portofino on the Italian Riveria. Unfortunately, bad water and bad weather forced our cruise ship to dock in Genova. Since we had no plans, no itinerary and not a clue as to the sights of Genova, we set out with a map, a Guidebook and our folding umbrellas--What a terrific day!

From the Via Garibaldi, the street of patricians, to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo with its medieval flavor and picturesque towers, we found this totally unplanned expedition a fun and exciting experience.

From the harbor, we hailed a cab and asked our driver to take us to the "Centro de Citta" -- City center. A very fast and very scary cab ride followed, but we were delivered without scathe to the Piazza Corvetto, where we stood with map in hand, trying to figure out which way to go!

With hundreds of vespas parked outside, we found our way into a tiny bar (in Italy, many coffee shops identify themselves as bars) where we ordered expresso and unfolded our map. We (my husband and I) started to check the sights listed in our guide book against the map, and immediately we had about 14 Italians looking over our shoulders.

"Questo e un bell posto" (this is a beautiful place) mumbled the short man with a hat; "quella e mia favorita" (that is my favorite) stated the tall handsome one. We listened to the exchanges and noted some of the recommendations before setting out on foot for a little shopping nearby - (recommended by the shop owner).