A May 2000 trip
to Genoa by Barb B
Quote: We awoke, anticipating the picturesque port of Portofino; instead we found Italy’s largest, busiest harbor, Genova! "Bad water" and weather conditions would not allow our cruise ship to dock in Portofino. So we set out to Genova with folding umbrellas and Guide Book in hand and not a clue!
We managed to "save the day" and enjoyed an impromptu, yet great experience! From the Via Garibaldi -- the street of patricians, to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo with its medieval flavor and picturesque towers, we found this totally unplanned expedition and a fun and exciting experience.
Pastas are all homemade, seasonal vegetables like artichokes and porcini mushrooms are paired with fish and pastas. Save room for cheese, either first-class Italian or imports from Europe. Well-chosen wines are treated with respect, served in large crystal wineglasses, a great excuse to drink . The dessert menu pairs fine dessert wines with all offerings.
The Linguria region is known for its seafood's, including sea bass, squid, octopus and anchovies. Dishes include Zuppa Di Datteri (a type of chowder made with tiny razor clams, unique to the area).
Pesto is the regional famous pasta sauce made with pine nuts, garlic, oil, cheese and basil.
Vitello Cima: Stuffed Veal
A variety of light white wines--Pigato and cinque Terre.
Rosas’ and dolce aqua are delightful red wines of the area
Member Rating 4 out of 5 on December 19, 2000
Antica Osteria dei Bai
Via Quarto 12
San Lorenzo is beautifully constructed with a striking contrast of black slate and white marble. The black-and-white pattern adorns the facade in the Pisan style and spread over the upper rows of the facade; these rows belong to different periods. Dating from the 13th century, the columns were rebuilt at the beginning of the 14th century and present the same two-colored pattern. The beautiful barrel vaults along the aisles, the dome, bell tower or campanile, and the apses area were all elegantly designed and date back to the 16th century.
The Chapel of St. John the Baptist, with interesting Renaissance sculpture is said to contain remains of the saint for whom it was named.
REMEMBER: proper attire is required in churches, cathedrals and sacred places. Shorts for both men and women are considered improper and women should also cover their bare arms.
Admission is free. Tues-Sat 9-11:30am and 3-5:30pm
Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Piazza San Lorenzo, Via Tommaso Reggio 17
Designed and built by the powerful and wealthy families of Genoa. Shop at piazza Della Vittoria where you can walk along Via Venti Settembre, a main commercial street with shopping in many stores.
Church bells chimed and we heard strong tenor voices echoing throughout many of the tiny alleys. And above us, the ever present geranium gardens from every window.
Shoping specials: Gold and silver--sinple charms are quite reasonable, pill boxes, napkin rings, photo frames, cruet sets, sugar bowls and candlesticks
Ceramics--Ornaments and statuettes for every taste
Straw work --Attractive straw bags, sunhats etc.
Good buys in velvet, olive wood and marble
OUR CHOICE: A lovely hand crafted cruet set, hand made in Sterling--163,000 lira (about $85 US)
Most shops are opened daily, but close down from 12 Noon to 2pm.
From the Via Garibaldi, the street of patricians, to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo with its medieval flavor and picturesque towers, we found this totally unplanned expedition a fun and exciting experience.
From the harbor, we hailed a cab and asked our driver to take us to the "Centro de Citta" -- City center. A very fast and very scary cab ride followed, but we were delivered without scathe to the Piazza Corvetto, where we stood with map in hand, trying to figure out which way to go!
With hundreds of vespas parked outside, we found our way into a tiny bar (in Italy, many coffee shops identify themselves as bars) where we ordered expresso and unfolded our map. We (my husband and I) started to check the sights listed in our guide book against the map, and immediately we had about 14 Italians looking over our shoulders.
"Questo e un bell posto" (this is a beautiful place) mumbled the short man with a hat; "quella e mia favorita" (that is my favorite) stated the tall handsome one. We listened to the exchanges and noted some of the recommendations before setting out on foot for a little shopping nearby - (recommended by the shop owner).
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