Brussels in November

Just off a small square filled with neon signs offering fish fare, this little hotel is a very interesting experience. We arrived late in Brussels, and the front desk in the café stayed open to welcome us. Leave a trail of breadcrumbs to get to your room - we took several stairways and halls to get to the Thailand room. A giant golden statue looked down on the double bed. The walls were painted to look like a sunset on the beach. It was an interesting contrast to the bitter-cold winter outside. The bathroom had a remarkably powerful shower, which is always a plus after an overseas flight.

The owner and his wife were very helpful with advice on a side trip to Brugge. They served a delicious, simple breakfast every morning in the café downstairs. Guests get their own key to come and go as they please. The area is extremely safe, and tons of great bars are within walking distance. Even though the hotel and restaurant were under construction, it was very quiet and did not disturb us.

If you're looking for a quirky hotel with themed rooms that defy description, this may be the place for you.

This is a delightful turn-of-the-century Art-Nouveau bar. The waiters serve up amazing beers with a touch of class. Blink, because you might travel back in time. Every table has a little dish of snack mix. Smokers light up liberally, as in all the bars in Brussels.

Enjoy a dark beer or a gueuze served on a silver tray. Check out a la Becasse around the corner for a Belgian pub crawl.

Don't go hungry to this stunning bar. The beer selection is great, but the food leaves a little to be desired. I had some industrial-strength bread with my beer. Strange, gooey processed meats and cheeses are also available. Want some green onions and radishes with that? Don't worry - it's included.

Nevertheless, we sampled a brown-sugar beer, a gueuze, and several other delightful drinks. The bar itself is gorgeous. People of all ages and appearances line the long skinny bar. The mirrors and gilding have been dulled with time, but it lends this place an even more elegant air. You'll want to visit again and again.