Wine, Horses, Mountains, and Nightlife

Central Chile is fantastic. Explore the restaurants and nightlife in BellaVista and Succia (Providencia). The best Pisco sour (a drink) is found at Liguria in Providencia, and the best Lomo a la Pobre is at Guilando's in BellaVista. The expansive artisan's village "Los Dominicos," near Las Condes, is an interesting way to spend a day. The best wineries to visit are De Martino and Cousino Macul. Horseback riding high into the Andes at Cascada de las Animas just east of Santiago in the Maipo River Valley was the highlight of our trip.

Quick Tips:

In Santiago, I recommend staying at Marulu's B&B. It’s within walking distance of the nightlife, restaurants, and tramway atop San Cristobal Hill. The hostess is trilingual and very helpful with making arrangements. Reserve a room with a private bath early. If you appreciate wine, don't bother with Concho Y Toro or the small winery near San Alfonso.

Best Way To Get Around:

A rental car affords more flexibility but is unnecessary in and around Santiago. I recommend it only if you are have nerves of steel. The huge fleets of yellow public buses compete for passengers by racing each other to stops. Lane markers mean nothing. Horns are used far more often than turn signals. Plenty of day-trip tours are available for hire, and the metro system is top-notch.

This was in an excellent location in Providencia and within walking distance to the best nightlife areas in BelleVista and Succia. It was also close to the tramway atop Cerro San Cristobal, offering the best views of Santiago. The hostess speaks adequate English, Spanish, and French, and is very helpful with making reservations. Breakfast is continental, and it centers on great conversations with the other international guests. I recommend reserving your room early in order to ensure one with a private bath.

This is in the heart of the BellaVista party district. They have great popular, local dishes. My favorite is Lomo a la Pobre, a big, loin steak covered with two sunny-side-up eggs and a mound of French fries. While enjoying our meals on a sidewalk table, we watched as a driver in a new BMW parallel parked in front of us. There was an old, beat-up Toyota with a small spot open at its front. BMW guy backed into the Toyota and continued pushing until it was out of his way. Then he didn't even pull forward to relieve the pressure of center his vehicle. He simply got out, looked at the damage, shrugged, and went into the bar next door, stopping only to bow to several other diners who were applauding.

We did not eat here, but the decor was fantastic and the crowd was energetic and fun. The best Pisco sours in Santiago are found here. The bartenders give them a real shaking.

Cascada de las Animas is a beautiful nature reserve/ranch about 1.5 hours east of Santiago. We ascended on sturdy horses along narrow mountain trails to upwards of 2,000m. There, at the top with a panoramic view of the Miapo Valley, we had a great lunch of fresh salad, grilled meats, and wine prepared by our gauchos. The property includes waterfalls, a large spring-fed pool, white-water rafting, and many other features. We gathered with our new friends at the open restaurant situated high, overlooking the valley, to share a meal, wine, and funny stories until the wee hours. Then we retired to our cozy, romantic cottage with a fireplace and terrace draped in ripened grape vines.

We visited wineries in Santiago and the Maipo Valley. Concho y Toro is beautiful but produces mostly jug wines that are available worldwide. The small country winery pictured is in San Alfonso. Its vineyards are visible as one ascends the Andes on an all-day horseback ride. And that’s close enough--the wines are akin to cough syrup.

Vinas Cousino Macul and Santa Ines De Martino, however, are excellent producers and have lovely tours available in English. Due to the times these tours are offered, though, you can't reach both for tours in the same day. I recommend the noon tour at Santa Ines/De Martino, then just going to the tasting room and store at Cousino Macul--or vice-versa. Reservations are required for tours.

Known as the Centro Artesanal de Los Dominicos, this true village of actual artisans from all over Chile was delightful for even those who don't normally enjoy shopping. Birds, cafés, and good deals on a huge variety of hand-crafted items equate to an all-day activity. One can find gifts for everyone here. It is not a tourist trap. Chileans from afar shop here as well. It is easy to find and open almost every day of the year.