N'awlins Y'all - Bon Temps!

There are so many highlights and memorable moments that I can't possibly put them into 400 words. However, here's a stab at it.

Beignets at Cafe Du Monde: They're hard to spell but wonderful to eat. I walked around the whole trip covered in powdered sugar.

Dinner at NOLA: As Emeril would say, "Bam!" While I had lots of great food in New Orleans, I'd say this was the best meal of the trip.

Riding a Segway through the city: I took a Segway tour (it's a motorized scooter on two wheels--read the journal to see photos) of New Orleans. Anyone have an extra three grand lying around so I can buy one of these things?

Royal Street: You'd think it'd be Bourbon Street, right? Well, maybe if I was 21 and an alcoholic, but I much preferred Royal Street. There were lovely shops, it was much quieter, and it was mostly absent of neon. It just had the feel of what I thought the French Quarter would be all about.

Quick Tips:

Use your concierge - they were a great source of information for me. In addition, some of the walking tours in the city offer you a coupon to come back for a second tour.

Best Way To Get Around:

My favorite way to get around, as mentioned above, was on a Segway. However, you have to buy a tour for that. Mostly, I found that walking was the easiest way to get anywhere. However, beware of New Orleans sidewalks. I think all the brick layers and pavers are in the bars, because there are more holes, loose bricks, etc., in the sidewalks than I've ever seen. So walk, but be careful.

Taxis are also abundant. There seems to be a minimum of to charge to your credit card. So take lots of cash.

And if you want to go to the Garden District, I recommend hopping on one of the streetcars. Make sure to bring EXACT change of .25.

I read in Frommers that if the French Quarter was the best place to party, this hotel was the best place to sleep it off. Plus, it was only a few blocks from the French Quarter.

I arrived mid-morning at the hotel, and while a room in the International House wasn’t ready, there was a room ready in its loft property – Loft523 - just across the street. The front desk arranged an upgrade for me, and I headed off with the bellman to my room. I was surprised that the front entrance to Loft 523 was inconspicuous. If I hadn’t had the bellman leading me, I wouldn’t have known it was there. We entered through the large copper-looking door into a small lobby with a modern motif – lots of hard lines and colorful artwork. The room itself was much the same – very much what I would envision a modern loft would look like. The king bed sat very low to the ground, with squared-off corners that looked out into the "living space", furnished with a desk, a large studio light, a couch, and a wooden table upon which sat the television and the sound system. Music was playing when I walked in, and there were several new-age CDs next to the stereo in case I wanted to listen to something different. There seemed to be a distinct effort in this room to pamper both the body and mind.

There were two downfalls to the room that I found. When I opened the window, my view was a bit disturbing – construction and the back of another building. It looked kind of ghetto to me. Also, there was no safe in the room. I had to lock my wallet in a lockbox (and keep up with a key) in the main lobby of International House. It also took me a little while to find the hair dryer, which was in the closet.

However, the staff in this hotel made my stay here a success, especially Keisha, who was manning the front desk at International House (the two properties seem to operate well together). She helped me choose and book a cemetery tour and helped me find a good place to eat dinner. She made sure to ask me the next time she saw me how I enjoyed my day and whether her recommendations were to my satisfaction.

I think the hotel was beautiful, and everyone made me feel as if I was a priority. However, I think that if I go back to New Orleans, I would choose a hotel in the French Quarter proper. That said, it certainly wasn’t hard to get to and from the French Quarter from this hotel; I just don’t think that I got a true New Orleans experience in this ultra-modern hotel. I would give the service here a 9 out of 10 and the location and ambience a 7 out of 10.

The purpose for my visit to New Orleans was to attend a conference there. I chose the first night’s hotel, as I planned to be in the city a day before the conference so I could see the sights. My stay at the Loews hotel was chosen for me by my company for its close proximity to the convention center (three blocks). It is also very convenient to Harrah’s Casino.

The Loews is all business – and they take their business seriously. There wasn’t anything spectacular about the design of the room, other than how spacious it was. I think the room was about as big as my condo at home. However, what is spectacular is the service. If you want to feel like you’re the only person staying at a hotel, this is a good choice. The front desk staff is attentive, and the wake-up calls are an actual person calling with a "good morning" and a weather report, rather than a computer. The concierge desk is always waiting with a smile to give recommendations and a map to get you to your destination. The concierge here even managed to get me a last-minute reservation at the popular NOLA restaurant. The bellmen will run all over with their little whistles to find a cab for you – and a specific cab (for example, one that takes credit cards) at that. They’ll walk you to your car with an umbrella, making sure you don’t get wet, while getting soaked themselves. Plus, the staff does all this with a smile and a sense of humor. You can also enjoy the complimentary New York Times newspaper delivered to your door each morning.

For the weary business traveler, I think this hotel would be a good choice. It’s a good walk, however, to the French Quarter. You can do it, but it’s a trek. But the hotel’s focus seems to be casino hounds and the convention center-bound. If that’s you, this hotel will definitely meet your needs. If you want something geared more toward the tourist, you’ll be less than impressed.

Emeril Lagasse has three restaurants in New Orleans, but I would have to say that the most talked-about establishment is NOLA (which stands for New Orleans, Louisiana). Everyone told me before I went to New Orleans that I had to eat at NOLA. What they didn’t tell me is that reservations for this place were taken months in advance. My first attempt to get a table on a Sunday night scored a big zero – booked solid. However, on Monday night, the concierge at my hotel managed to snag a reservation for two at 8pm, and I was willing to wait.

Upon arrival at NOLA, my date and I headed directly for the bar for a pre-dinner drink. I ordered a cosmopolitan, and it was the best one I think I’ve ever had. We barely had time to pay the bartender before our table was ready, and the hostess led us to the glass elevator to take us to the second floor. Everyone around us seemed to be really enjoying themselves, the food, and just the fact that they were eating at NOLA. As soon as we were seated, our waitress introduced herself, put our napkins on our laps, and handed us our menus.

It seemed like most people chose their menu items by looking around to see what everyone else was having – we even struck up a conversation with the couple at the table next to us about what we wanted to order and got tips from them (they were on their way out.) To start, we went with a double-portioned appetizer of stuffed chicken wings – boneless chicken stuffed with what reminded me of an eggroll center, with some dipping sauce. If the appetizer was this good, I was looking forward to the main course. That main course for me was an order of Southern-fried chicken breasts, with a substitution of goat-cheese mashed potatoes and sweet peas in the shell. It was one of those meals where everything was so good, you wanted to eat until you popped. However, I maintained a bit of room for the dessert – we split a fried apple pie with cinnamon ice cream. How we did it, I’ll never know.

We also never wanted for a waiter/waitress. Water glasses were always full, everything was delivered promptly, etc. We must have had four different people waiting on us, even taking our photo!

When we got the bill, I was expecting some obscene amount. I was pleasantly surprised that the total came to about $80 – that was for two drink refills and three courses. It was worth every penny – it was one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten.

You absolutely MUST eat here when visiting New Orleans. However, plan it out a little better than me and make a reservation in advance. You will NOT be disappointed.

I received many restaurant recommendations for my trip to New Orleans, but the one I received most frequently had to have been K Pauls. I would say that this restaurant was the most "New Orleans-y" restaurant I visited on my trip – I was told that this is the place where "blackened" was invented. I don’t know if that was meant literally or figuratively, but either way, it was a lovely dining experience.

I thought that perhaps we’d need a reservation, especially with its French Quarter location, but the concierge at my hotel thought we’d be fine without one. We did arrive a bit early – 6 pm – and we were seated right away. That said, I don’t remember anyone standing in line for very long to get a table while we were there. And this was on a Saturday night!

I found that in most restaurants in New Orleans, seafood made up a big part of the menu. K Pauls was no exception. They did, however, have blackened steak – the last thing listed on the menu. Those of you who have read my previous journals know how much I like a good steak, so it should be no surprise that that’s what I ordered. My dinner companion ordered an appetizer of jambalaya – and let me taste it, of course. What I learned is that there’s a difference between spicy and "Cajun." There was definitely a kick to it, but it wasn’t the kind of kick that would make your eyes water or anything. I’m not usually a person who tries new food items, but I was happy I tasted this. It was delicious! Only a short while after we finished the jambalaya, out came the steaks. Mine was cooked to perfection and was very juicy and tasty. The spices were just right. The steak cut like it was butter and really melted in your mouth. Also, I learned that "blackened" is in no way burnt or extra spicy. I now know it to mean "really good."

The only negative thing I have to say is that our waitress seemed a little snooty – but she was otherwise a good waitress.

The bill for two people, including a bottle of wine, one appetizer, and two entrees, came to about $100. I didn’t feel guilty, however, about handing over that money, because I thought it paid for a really good meal and set a standard for New Orleans dining that was going to be hard to beat.

I think almost anytime you mention New Orleans to someone, one of the top three things they associate with the city would have to be the delightful beignets served at the famous Café Du Monde. These little donut-like desserts are a must-eat for any traveler to the city. If you’re wondering what they taste like – think carnival funnel cake, only in little squares.

The best thing about these little wonders is that you can get three of them, with chicory coffee, for $3.50.

I’ve been told that the lines here can get pretty long, especially during peak times – think about avoiding them for breakfast or brunch. My first visit was on my first night in New Orleans at a bit after midnight. (It’s a 24/7 establishment.) Absolutely no line, but most of the tables were full. We chose one of the few free tables and plopped ourselves down. While open-air with an awning protecting us from the moonlight, the place reminded me of a '50s-era diner. Same kind of tables and chairs, with the waiters and waitresses in striped uniforms and paper hats.

I could hardly wait to sink my teeth into these warm little powdered-sugar treats. Oh, that’s the other thing. Expect to get the powdered sugar all over you. Don’t worry about your clothes - it’ll wash out - and until then, everyone in New Orleans will know – and be able to relate – that you ate at Café Du Monde. Plus, after one bite, it’s likely that you won’t care.

In order to savor the experience, I ate here once more before leaving the city, just so I could better remember them when I got home. Please don’t pass up Café Du Monde if you’re in the Big Easy.

Relying once again on my hotel’s concierge, I requested a good place for lunch where I could eat a substantial meal, as it was likely to be my last for the day because I was flying home. She suggested La Cote Brasserie, a short three-block walk from the Loews Hotel. She also told me that her husband – apparently some kind of expert on New Orleans gumbo – thought the gumbo here was one of the best. A bonus for me, it was not a seafood gumbo, so I could try it.

Unfortunately, almost everything else on the menu was seafood. I ate little mini filet mignons and fries so I could have some food that wouldn’t send me to the ER. But to start, I had the gumbo. I was nervous, because I’m a pretty picky eater and it was made with duck and andouille sausage. But since I was there on the company dollar, I thought if I didn’t like it, I wasn’t out any money. It was served with rice and was probably one of the tastiest, most New-Orleans things I ate when I was there. It wasn’t too spicy, and the duck was shredded, so I didn’t freak out about it or anything. For dessert, I had the special – crème brulee. Very good. The server was really good – she made sure to check on me after each course to make sure I liked what I ordered. Instead of refilling my water, they just brought me new glasses.

The lunch here, with the gumbo, the main course, a drink, and dessert, ended up being about $40. A bit pricey for lunch, but I think you could just get the gumbo ($5) and make it a meal. It’s kind of off-the-beaten-path, unless you’re attending a conference at the convention center – it was mostly a business crowd.

I’d heard some great things about Brennan’s New Orleans brunch, so despite attempts by my concierge to make me a brunch reservation elsewhere, I managed to sneak into Brennan’s about 10am on a Sunday morning. I honestly didn’t expect that I’d be able to get a table, but when I walked in, they said it would only be a 20-minute wait. They led me to a beautiful courtyard to wait for my table and asked to take my drink order. I’d barely sat down and started to enjoy the surroundings when the host came out to tell me my table was ready. Wow – that was a fast 20 minutes!

My table was by the window overlooking the courtyard, so I could still admire it. When I sat down, several people made sure that my napkin was in my lap, that my water was on the table, and that my coffee was poured. What service! My waiter was a very good-looking young man (and by young, I mean barely legal) who saw my camera sitting on the table and asked to take my photo. The host saw this, and said, "I want to be in the picture with the lovely lady!" (With this kind of service, I might not ever leave.) After the paparazzi moment, I ordered a ham-and-cheese omelet and –even though Brennan’s is famous for its Bananas Foster – Crepes Fitzgerald (another signature Brennan’s dish) for dessert. The omelet could’ve fed about three people, but it was really good. I have to say, though, that I was really biding my time with the omelet (and trying to eat at least one healthy thing) waiting for the crepes. The crepes are filled with cream cheese and sour cream and served with strawberries flamed in maraschino. They make it – and the bananas foster – on stations positioned among the tables so you can watch – and smell – the action.

They have a fixed price menu for $36. But I chose to go á la carte with the omelette ($7) and the crepes ($5). I couldn’t have eaten all the food offered on the fixed-price menu! However, I was very happy with my brunch and my service and would suggest that everyone partake in brunch at Brennan’s when in New Orleans.

When in N’awlins, do as the N’awlins folks do – have yourself a drink and listen to some jazz. That’s what I set out to do when I visited the Funky Butt.

We arrived at 10pm – a little early for the jazz action, which was scheduled to start at 10:30. When we ordered our drinks (beer and some fruity concoction that the bartender made up for me), we had our choice of tables – we were the only ones there. I decided that the table nearest the open door would be a good choice. It was right up front, and we’d have some air. Both were good ideas – getting there early and sitting by the door. By 10:30, it was standing-room-only, and it got really warm in there.

The "band" (I think they were called the "Sweet Magnolias?") started playing with three members, a traditional drummer on a drum set, a bass player with a six-string bass, and another drummer on a kettle drum. They played "When the Saints Go Marching In" – which I think is a requirement for any jazz band playing in New Orleans (they must get fined or something if they don’t play it. Ha.), but they definitely put their own touch on it. I don’t know if I would call the music they played "jazz" – but if it was, it was certainly a more modern version of it. I would call it more of a "soul" jam session.

The band added members after each song – maybe some of them were still sleeping off the last night’s gig. Next out was an Asian lead guitarist (who was very talented). Then the band started shouting "Are you ready for Mardi Gras?" Out came two men dressed (sort of) like Native Americans – except with Mardi Gras-like headpieces. (Things that make you go "hmmmm.") Then came the lead singer, who had that raspy jazz voice that reminded me a little of BB King. Everyone clapped along – though if anyone could understand the words they were singing, they need to become interpreters for the rest of us.

The Funky Butt is pretty small; I’d say it could hold about 70 people – half of them standing – which makes it also pretty loud. But isn’t that part of the experience? I’d say if you’re looking for a fun show with some music, this is a good place to go. However, if you’re looking for traditional jazz music, I understand that Preservation Hall is your better bet.

PS: The cover for the band was $10, with no cover to get in and drink before that.

I entered a contest through Budget Travel magazine, submitting a story about what I would do with an extra $100 on my next trip. I said I wanted to take a Segway tour, and the editors granted me my wish.

If you’ve never seen a Segway, it’s a motorized "scooter" on two wheels with a self-balancing component. When you lean forward, you move forward (up to 12mph). When you lean back, you can stop (if you’re going forward) or move backward (if you’re stopped). I had seen security guards in Las Vegas riding them and just thought it would be so neat to try. However, at $3,000 a pop, I didn’t think I’d be owning one anytime soon.

So, when researching tour options for New Orleans online, Segway Tours came up in the Google search. So I took a look, and it turns out that they also have tours in Paris, D.C., and especially New Orleans. The tour lasts 4 hours and usually has no more than 8 people. The first hour or so is dedicated to learning how to ride the Segway. It looks pretty hard, but once you get out there on the thing, it turns out to be pretty easy. The New Orleans tour took us along the Mississippi River, across the river on the ferry, and along jazz walk in Algiers Point, past Mardi Gras World and through the neighborhood. Then we went back across the river and into Jackson Square.

I’m going to be honest with you. The tour itself was not all that. My particular tour only had three people, so we had more time for touring as we spent less time in training. I would have liked more of a dialogue from the tour guide, whose name was Matthew. Not that Matthew wasn’t great – he was. He spent a lot of time answering our questions. I just wanted to know more about the Mississippi, the riverboats, etc. I think the tour could’ve gone through the Garden District (but not the French Quarter – too many people to navigate through). I thought Algiers Point was boring, Mardi Gras World looked like a big warehouse, etc. However, the tour was worth its $65 price solely for the experience of riding a Segway.

If you want people to pay attention to you, this is the way to get it. When everyone saw us on our Segways, we spent more time answering questions about what they were like and how hard were they to ride than anything else. It was kind of neat – we were like a rolling marketing campaign!

If you want to ride a Segway, check out these tours. The company was great and went out of their way to accommodate me. Everyone was nice and knowledgeable and concerned foremost about safety.

There are several companies in New Orleans that offer cemetery and ghost tours, so how do you know which one to pick? I asked my concierge, and she recommended New Orleans Spirit Tours.

The cemetery tours run each day at 10:30am and 1:15pm and meet at the Royal Blend Coffee House on Royal Street. I went on the afternoon tour on a beautiful day. The reason I chose a tour is that the cemeteries are pretty dangerous if you go on your own.

This particular tour is called a Cemetary and Voodoo tour. Also note that these are WALKING tours. First stop was St. Louis Cemetery #1, where VooDoo Queen Marie Laveau is thought to be buried. Our guide, Julia, was great. She walked us through the cemetery, explaining why New Orleans cemeteries house their dead in above-ground crypts (dig three feet and you’ll hit the water table), and how so many people can fit into one crypt (the N.O. heat will naturally cremate them, and when a new person is put in the crypt, there are men who work in the cemetery that will sweep the previous occupant to the back of the crypt, where it will fall into a pit, and put the new person in). Believe it or not, this is a pretty interesting way to learn about some of the history of the city while seeing something that you’ve seen in movies like Double Jeopardy and Easy Rider (which was filmed without permission in St. Louis #2).

After about an hour and a half in the cemetery, we took a short walk to a voodoo temple and had the chance to hold audience with a voodoo priestess. Now, I’m pretty sure that I wasn’t the only one that felt a little uncomfortable with this. For experience’s sake, I went in cautiously. And I needn’t have worried, as I don’t think I understood a single word she said. Maybe it was from too much incense?

The next evening, I also took a ghost tour with this company and chose to go with the same guide as the day before, Julia. The ghost tour leaves nightly at 8:15pm, also meeting at the Royal Blend Coffee House. The tour lasts two hours and takes you throughout the French Quarter – supposedly one of the most haunted places in the U.S. Taking that fact into account, I thought that the stories – and the number of stories, only four – were lacking. I didn’t find any of them incredibly scary. One of them was admittedly made up, because after Anne Rice’s novels, everyone wanted to hear about vampires. I