Gary's May 2005 Sojourn

I will be in a studio, since on this trip, I am going down solo but will be hanging with many amigos. You will hear lots from the Internet! There is a balcony looking partially north and west, all the amenities necessary, and a great staff. The room was secured from www.doinitright.com.

It is reputed by many as Vallarta's top spot, with five-diamond winner owner/chef Thierry Blouet presenting Mexican and French cuisine. It is world-renowned, formal, and very expensive, with attentive but unobtrusive service that may be worth it for you. There are many exquisite choices, such as salmon wasabi 190p, sea bass fine herbs 240p, grilled garlic tuna 195p, half-roasted ginger duck 265p, filet mignon with red-wine onion stew 265p, baked osso bucco with grilled lamb chop and mascarpone polenta and garlic 299p, pumpkin shrimp bisque 95p, tuna sashimi salad 115p, escargot and pumpkin ravioli 115p, artichoke and potato aioli terrine 110p, pumpkin prawn soup 95p, fine desserts (apple and pear-pecan strudel with caramel ice cream 81p, tropical baba au rhum 85p, and chocolate crème brulée 85p). They offer a three-course bistro menu 350p, with wine 385p, reported to be wonderful. Dine inside in a 50-year-old garden or newer area on hillside with a view. The new Cocina de Autor dining room, built in levels, is backed by a flowing waterfall with a ficus tree centerpiece [closed Sunday and September, with manager Polo] and has signature 3- to 5-course menus 590-750p. It is number one for many worldwide travelers. It is a city landmark with a world-famous reputation. It has a splendid list of 400 wines by the glass 65-90p and bottle 200-4500p and live music many times 8-11pm, as well as piano and flute music. At the entrance, there is a relaxed but elegant Costantini Bar Lounge with nightly entertainment. Reservations are advised/required. There is valet parking. It is a top choice on many lists.

It is such a deal, seriously. You get a choice of one appetizer from, one entrée from, and any dessert on the regular menu. It seemed like the bill, with a cup of coffee, would have set me back 380 pesos, without tip, and this was 149 pesos!!! Every single morsel from the six plates was a sheer delight. A table set for 10 in a semi-private room next to us sat empty, and I felt it would work just right for my next birthday, one to never forget by anyone in attendance. I do not think I have nine friends willing to part with that kind of money with drinks for me. Oh, Donald Trump, Oprah… ? The dripping, clear teardrop glass wall, the huge floral pieces, the sculpture, the prix-fixe menu, the private room with attention to detail, the attentive but unobtrusive service, the elegance, the soft music, the lighting… everything except the wafts of cigarette smoke from a close table, uncalled for in a special place as this is, was fabulous.

Noon-9pm, closed Sunday

Sánchez Dueñas Veronica runs this lovely alfresco dining under canvas with the Río flowing by. Marlin or ceviche tostadas [3]45p, good nachos 45p, taco salad: chicken 55p or shrimp 69p, bbq ribs or chicken breast with cole slaw and fries 79p, tasty fajitas: beef or chicken 69p, shrimp or fish 85p, filet mignon with bacon and mushrooms 119p, 5 pastas 85p, combo plate 145p, choco cake 45p and banana flambé 66p. Live music, sometimes blues, call first.

Okay, after reading the only review here, a glower, I had to add a warning. DO NOT go on a Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday, as the owner Nacho is in Guadalajara and he obviously has not trained his kitchen staff. We had the very worst inedible meal there on a Monday and were told later that that was a mistake. Anywhere that cannot be consistent with its food night after night at these steep prices does not deserve business.

It is so very relaxing. I have my favorite spots to stop and dine or shop. There is art for sale, from watercolor to oils to ceramic to local wooden carvings, for your home decor. The locals are so very friendly, with wide white smiles and shiny black hair.

Monday May 2, 2005

We flew off from San Francisco 15 minutes early since the plane was quite vacant and landed in Puerto Vallarta half-hour early at 2:35pm. That time was spent on slow customs and peso changing [10.82 pesos per US dollar], but who cares? It was off to La Palapa into my large studio condo with a wonderful view looking south and west. All the staff is here, so attentive and accommodating. The balcony has a table with three chairs, and the unit features a couch, two chairs, TV, DVD and CD players, glass-topped table for my laptop and two chairs, fully equipped kitchenette, and an extra-wide king-size bed. The bathroom is large, though closet space is limited, but how much room do I need for shorts and short-sleeved shirts? Indigenous artwork adorns walls, shelves, furniture and fixtures. I was surprised immediately with the moderate temperatures coupled with that fine gentle breeze off the Bahía. Superb.

I could not stay inside long after unpacking, and off I wandered along the cobblestone streets I have come to call home through the years. This place open, this one closed for a while, that one folded and gone forever. I ran into a couple people immediately and chatted briefly. Yes, I am back, as you knew I would be! I stocked up with just a few items at Rizo's: chips, bottled water for my hiking, and a couple of sugar-coated fruit empanadas. Ah, the lure of the Internet and into my café I went upon seeing the summer special was offered already: 10 hours for 150p. Desired a rest, so back home I trod, watched CNN, and decided a taco stand [of sorts] had my name on it and went to Takos Panchos [sic] and ordered lightly, just two open-faced chicken tacos, a chorizo quesadilla, and glass of Jamaica. I sat inside at a table and talked with the owner/mesero. Strolled and jotted down restaurant notes and then headed home for much needed sleep. There is plenty of time for errands and business duties.

Tuesday May 3, 2005

Up early, sleeping more than I am accustomed, almost 8 hours. I head out onto the streets in search of new info for my guide. Looked up several spots I had been emailed concerning and made notes of which to return and explore. Such a happy day with the locals out performing their duties, living their lives, kids playing, and festivities being set up for the construction workers’ holiday. Over alongside the church on Aguacate, a series of white tents were erected and a buffet of cooked comida was dished to the revelers. Several large decorated cakes were set on a separate table. I wondered to myself if I could pretend to know someone and jump right into the lines. No, I think not. Small carnival rides made of brilliantly colored painted metal occupied 1 block for nighttime fun. I decided upon

Machis BBQ
Lázaro Cárdenas 452, upstairs at Jacarandas OT/SS. 222-9327
machispv@yahoo.com
Noon-2am, 4pm-2am Sun.
Enrique and Adriana offer an inexpensive eclectic menu of avocado shrimp 50p, tortilla soup 25p, fish and chips 55p, mahi mahi Veracruzana 60p, bbq ribs 90p, pork chop 75p, rib eye 65/120p, filet mignon 95p, bacon wrapped mahimahi stuffed with crab and shrimp 80p, bacon wrapped shrimp 95p, shrimp mignon scampi or mushroom 95p, chicken chipotle 60p, arrachera with guacamole, rice and beans 70p, hamburger 12p or double at 28p from 12-5pm, and sandwiches 30-45p. Good limonada and fried ice cream with choco 28p. There is indoor and some balcony seating. Live music in high season. Nightly reservations recommended.

The arrachera was flavorful and so very tender, wrapped in warm tortillas with a good cilantro chile salsa, rice, pintos and guacamole. Adriana is a real sweetie. Caught up online for 1.5 hours and back to enter data onto my floppy disk. Stretched out with the cool brisas and sounds of the town but stirred shortly to the phone and a voice making more plans! Hard to imagine anything more blissful than sitting on the balcony looking at the southern stretch of the Bahía, listening to the unending crash of waves and shouts from la playa. Mountains, swaying palms, rocks, white surf, sand, people and cascading hillsides of homes. After relaxing and reading with the background vista, it was time to have the sandals hit the cobblestones or there would be no dinner. Back to the carnival, but now the streets were humming and rocking, a live dance band amplified song after song while stands dished up platters of food and children chased one another and screamed on the miniature rides. A Tuesday night of fun, food, and fiesta. The noise was too great for me to sit and enjoy a meal, so I headed a few blocks distant to

Ene Cenaduría
Aquiles Serdán 380 between Insurgentes and Aguacate OT/SS.
7pm-12:30am Closed Wednesday.
Pozole 38p [surtido=combination of pork and chicken 48p] is the draw plus gorditas 30-50p, tacos 30p, sopes picadillo 30p or chicken 55p and enchiladas 35p. Jamaica and other fresh drinks 8p. Local favorite. The pozole portion was indeed grande and the senora knew how to flavor the stock and load it with pieces of meat and hominy, an indigenous dish that should not be missed. Crisp tortillas and a couple salsas accompanied it. My feet and back ached from the ambitious day, so, after chatting with an amigo on the sidewalk, all I could muster was a slow stroll back to lovely La Palapa and turn in around 1am.

Wednesday May 4, 2005

Up to the light of paradise and café to jump start another day. Needed to get some early rays and pool time. Pretty empty up on the roof and the guys are installing new tiles all around the roof perimeter so that will make it a slight construction zone for this visit. At least we have some comfy lounges and the potted plants are blooming and doing spectacularly. Watched the playa start to awaken and decided it was time for my departure once more. Weaving amongst the locals and a few tourists, I ended up on Basilio Badillo, Venustiano Carranza, Francisco I. Madero, Lázaro Cardenas and back to B. B. Stopped in Café Catedral. Such a pleasant small spot that also accomplished my mission to stock up on a good ground coffee for my condo, purchasing a kilo of Chiapas cafe. Every employee was so friendly and accommodating, including my nearby fellow patron. Just like old home week! I decided upon machaca with eggs, beans, fresh fruit and cafe after reading both the breakfast and lunch menus.

Café Catedral
Basilio Badillo 317 between Constitución and Insurgentes OT/SS.
223-0318
http://ambitopv.com/pasados/130205/English/restaurants.htm
8am-10pm Closed Sunday and August 15-October 28.
Owner Heriberto Gutiérrez serves reasonably priced large servings as breakfast eggs and meat with juice or fruit and coffee 43p, pancakes or waffles 30-50p, fresh veggie or fruit juice 18p, escamouchas [chopped fruit with orange juice] 18p, latte 15p, milk shakes 16-22p, lunch comida corrida 45p, machaca 50p, chimichangas 50p, salads 35-45p, filet mignon or tampiqueña 95p,Tres Marias beef medallions 125p, Catedral shrimp with creamy mushroom sauce 130p, pork ribs 65p, enchiladas 55p, spaghetti 45p, chicken 5 ways 65p and many vegetarian items. Chiapas coffee beans 75-85p/kilo. No CC.

Another must on everyone's list, machaca with eggs and onions plus accompaniments was flavorful and filling. Reasonable, tasty, and local. My back was stiff and pained, as were my feet, so sat on a painted metal bench and watched people one after another walk by in all directions. It is fun to allow your mind to wander and fantasize what their lives are like, to think where they are off to, what is next in store, and who they will soon see. Can only imagine what they think I am up to!

After more walking and spotting familiar faces from trips gone by, I landed back on home field, sprawling on the balcony with a few brochures and magazines as the sun slowly dropped. It was still light at 8:15pm when slight hunger pains hit me and I decided it best choose an eatery for a small repast, nothing fancy, just something simple from a place I have not been. Out comes my guide and marked-up notes when it dawned on me that there was somewhere I have walked by many times, never finding it open, as it is like many taco stands only open nightly. It was referred to me as a place where the owner/chef of Café des Artistes was spotted dining so that tells you something. An urge was filled to satisfaction beyond my hopes.

Hamburguesas al Carbon
Aguacate 239 at Venustiano Carranza OT/SS.
7pm-12am
Reputed to be among the very best reasonably priced burgers in town, with cheese 29p, double with cheese 39p, or vegetarian 18p. Charcoal grilled and served on huge 6-inch golden homemade buns. Hotdogs are 13/15p, and a huge portion of papas fritas 14p. They close when the food runs out. It is a small place, a hidden gem with counter and a few tables. Well-priced and humongous.

The cheeseburger was perfect, and who could resist those homemade buns and very fresh potatoes? I had not strolled the entire length of Isla Rio Cuale and was amazed at how beautiful and twinkling the main restaurants Oscars, River Cafe and Le Bistro are at night. Along the path, lovers softly murmured in the dark edges, tropical birds screeched through the stillness, and cats scampered in front of you from bush to underbrush.

Thursday May 5, 2005

Today has got to be at least one of the excursions through downtown, so I must cross that bridge and head north along the main roads and byways. This is the heart of the business section of town, full of fine shops, galleries, and restaurants, plus many more tourists. Government offices surround the main square, or zocolo, and the large Our Lady of Guadalupe Church is the centerpiece. Much construction is being done on the Malecon along toward the Rio and will continue in front of Molino de Agua to make it one long stretch of pavement, thus avoiding walking on the sandy beach. But for now, one must weave in and out, watching every step where holes and broken fences may lead to a twisted ankle or worse! Burned up a day's worth of calories and checked out many spots until I settled on

Tuti Fruti
Morelos 552 at Corona DT.
222-1068
9am-6pm Closed Sunday.
Indoor countertop run for 22 years by ladies serving machaca burritos 3 for 50p, quesadillas, 25p, fruit plate 45p, pork, Milanesa, ham or chicken torta on wonderful rolls 25p and cheeseburger 30p. Licuados [fresh-fruit smoothies made with water 20p or milk 25p] and fruit juices 15-30p. No CC.

I was thrilled with the fine Milanesa torta with guacamole sauce and salsa fresca, plus a guayaba licuado. Just enough portion and super flavors to savor. Took a slow stroll along the Malecon and watched a few artists at work. General consensus of the locals with which I conversed is that the high season was indeed very good but that they have a lot of catching up to do in order to make up the lost ground of past years after the dot.com bust and then 9/11. Headed back to what I call Old Town and did not arrive back to my pleasant abode until almost 6pm. Where do the daylight hours pass? But what is great this time of the year is that 8pm it is still light. Makes the days stretch longer and we love that! More bang for your buck, or peso.

La Tía Catrina
Francisco I. Madero 202 at Pino Suárez OT/SS.
4-11pm Closed Sunday.
Fusion tapas bar operated by Erin and Héctor in their store Passiflora. Comfortable couches and indigenous artwork provide a relaxed dining atmosphere. Tortilla or beet soup 35p, black bean hummus 25p, seafood sampler 130p, Caesar salad 40p, fish or shrimp brochette 50p, fish or shrimp ceviche 35p, pork cordon bleu 85p, fish with fruit salsa 50p, mahimahi stuffed with shrimp and scallops 95p, and Beto's spare ribs 50p. Mexican specialties made by Héctor's mother, Ethelia, include chiles rellenos 50p, enchiladas 50p, arrachera or pork tacos 50p, and creamy flan 30p.

I decided after a long, long time to opt for a smaller item, the pollo enchilada mole, which was superb, the sauce being rich and smooth but not cloying. With an iced tea, I was satiated and smiling. Service was warm and attentive. A fine place to relax and meld into the surroundings. The place seemed to glow. Spent almost an hour online checking my groups and quick emails. Anything major will wait until I am back using my monthly service in San Francisco. Sent out a couple local posts to certain people, making them aware that I am available for get-togethers. Have that pocket organizer/calendar handy!

Friday May 6

Not a wispy cloud in the bright blue sky and cooling light brisas, which make for a perfect environment. I think back to the people who complained this past winter being here for a week and having nothing but light drizzle, clouds, and gray skies. What a difference! Barely up and starting the coffee when Leslie phones to suggest lunch, making another new amigo/amiga from the vast Internet. Sure, where, right where I am staying? Porque, no? A delightful locale with friendly service, and the food presentation is tops. It was good to be back at a table there once more. We conversed as if we were long-lost pals seeing each other after some time, catching up on current happenings and reminiscing about PV days gone by. She had told me how she prefers to pay a few more pesos for lunch and dine right on la playa with great food and service. She opted for her fave, chicken burritos, and I chose the shrimp crepes. Their presentation is a sight to behold. Such a lovely way to fulfill our hunger and enjoy fine conversation.

La Palapa PGF
Púlpito 103 on Playa Los Muertos OT/SS.
222-5225/223-0330, www.lapalapapv.com, info@lapalapapv.com
lapalapapv@prodigy.net.mx
Breakfast 8am-Noon, Lunch Noon-5pm, Dinner 5-11:30pm
On Playa Los Muertos, in Old Town since 1959, owned by Alberto Perez, it is open for lunch for people-watching and nightly for elegant dining with some tables on the torch-lit sandy beachfront. Tortilla soup 70p, crab strudel 110p, spinach jicama salad 70p, pepper-crusted tuna 210p, pan seared huachinango 220p, ginger swordfish 225p, pork tenderloin 195p, and stuffed chicken breast 185p. Sunday brunch. Daytime beach food like nachos 55-75p, chicken burrito 65p, chicken fajitas, avocado, brie and caramelized onions quesadillas, shrimp crêpes 75p, and guacamole 50p. Live music nightly draws many patrons into the bar 8pm-11pm, call first. Pricey, but the quality is still there and quite romantic. This is the original restaurant south of Río Cuale before any bridges were built. Check out their historic photos in hallway.

We slumped into the peaceful environment, chatting and comparing past and present experiences of our beloved pueblo. She is an artist who enjoys all of Mexico, its vibrant colors and people. It is always fun seeing beach vendors year after year and exchanging pleasantries. Strolling later, we stopped by certain favorite eateries of hers, with which I was unfamiliar and had no information as to quality. Owners and employees as waiters, a chef and managers encouraged inclusion in my guide. Especially enjoyable was the far east end of the Isla Rio Cuale, farthest from where the Rio enters the bay. There she showed me the Cultural Center for Arts: painting, drawing, lithography, sculpture, and poster making. I was so very pleased to see classrooms where students can learn the mechanics of art and express their innate talents.

Time for me to head on back to my playa, stop at the Internet Cafe for an hour, and home to elevate my feet and then type on my laptop. Before you could say "olas altas," it was time to hike outside and seek a suitable taco stand from my list of small family spots for checking out. Not an easy task since besides being so many temptations. Some were so crowded on this end of the week night that there were no spots to sit, and I was in no mood or energy to stand and eat dinner, not tonight.

It sure is nice not viewing much TV and reading very little newspaper articles, except for the interesting local ones. English editions are easy to find now, but when I first would visited here, there were none to be found, except the Mexico City News delivered on the beach by an old man shouting out the headlines to entice gringos to purchase. I remember one morning I bought a prior day's issue, which I had gotten from him. He was so abusive that I desired my pesos returned! Old as yesterday's news.

Tacos Memo
Aguacate at Basilio Badillo OT/SS.
7pm-2am Closed Monday.
For 17 years, Memo and wife María have served very fine fast food to the locals. Famous for baked potato with sour cream and salsa 25p, with ground beef 30p and huge shrimp, and onion burrito 50p. Also, handmade tortillas, complimentary chunky guacamole sauce, tacos 7p, quesadillas 12p, and hamburgers 24p.

Had a wonderful time chatting with this young couple [are they really 40 years old?] who own this stand. I learned a lot about how a small business gets set up and hopefully survives on the side of a street. Although I opted for the huge chunky shrimp burrito with guacamole on top, I am going to try very hard to return for the baked potato with all the trimmings. My mouth waters as my senses absorb.

Upon entering our lobby, front-desk amigo Juan Ramon Navarro displayed his artwork, which he produces as he sits in the quietude. He sketches local scenes from memory in black pencil and then later paints his favorites with watercolors. He won his first art competition award, a trip for four to Mazatlan, when he was 16. I do hope his creations reach an audience and was pleased that one condo owner purchased a large town vista for her abode in Cabo San Lucas. Time to sit and relax on the balcony eyes glazing as the waves ebbed and flowed, one after another, with a silvery gray black shine reflecting the moon and a few stars.

Saturday May 7

Arose early to pure white skies and thought that the weather would clear after all the bragging I have done. It did not seem awake enough to break through, though later in the afternoon, the town became bright and the temperature was a most pleasant moderate. No shivering in my T-shirt here.

I am just amazed that every time I come back to our Southside at least two mariscos grills have popped up, some with plastic umbrella covered tables seating almost 100. Mainly shrimp and fish brochettes or whole huachinango con salsa picante and lime are served with beer, sodas and coconuts topped and filled with a liquid. Strolling mariachis try to sing a living, and at the very least, fill the air with harmony and beat, all this within a few feet of the surf. And what a vista! Do these natives realize what they have? They sure seem content and appear happy. I know I am. Very pleased to see many plastic bag-lined metal containers for refuse. Near Daiquiri Dick's, I found a new stand purveying a formidable selection of fresh roasted nuts. I got peanuts picante 15p and sugared 20p and eyed the cashews 25p. I had the hardest time in the northern area of downtown finding a place open which I had on my must-go list. Did record data on a couple places for dinner later with amigos. Slowly walked south on the Malecon sipping my agua mineral to stave off dehydration and spotted some sort of fiesta set up in the main zocolo at the foot of the Church and City Hall. Red plastic Coke roofs shaded people purveying food and beverage. To my surprise, from what I could figure from the Spanish-only signs, this was a tamale festival with recipes representing a number of Central and South American countries [Peru, Ecuador, Mexico, Venezuela, Peru, Chile, and Cuba]. I finally opted for the one from Columbia - what it was exactly, I was unsure. It was a huge cornmeal tamale with chicken and beef, bones and all, topped with cilantro onion salsa. With it I sipped a papaya [?] fruit drink, 60p for both. Went to another booth thinking their beverage was Jamaica, but it was called samora, bright red with black seeds, like a watermelon. Quite tasty all around and a real experience I just stumbled upon.

Waved at Jose, "the muffin man," whom I have known for over 12 years. He has gained weight from marriage and three kids, but his pastry selection now includes fruit turnovers and individual pies. Being late in the afternoon, the lack of freshness showed, and even though he was offering an end-of-the-day sale, I begged off until later when I see him in the morning along la playa. Took a needed short siesta and headed south along the playa to Ritmos Cafe for an Overtura concert from a stage on the sand, but no one was there to enjoy them. Headed out along the byways.

Ene Cenaduría
Aquiles Serdán 380 between Insurgentes and Aguacate OT/SS.
7pm-12:30am Closed Wednesday.
Small casual neighborhood spot specializes in very tasty pozole 38p [surtido=combination of pork, beef and chicken 48p] plus gorditas 30-55p, tacos 30p, sopes picadillo 30p or chicken 55p, and enchiladas 35-40p. Jamaica and other fresh drinks 8p. Local favorite.

After taking a walk for slow exercise amongst the locals enjoying their Saturday night, I stopped by The Palm and it was closed. A few of us were to meet there for the Ida Slapter [and you can, too] show, but a neighbor employee had no clue as to why they were not open. So much for my entertainment all evening! But all was not lost, as the weekend night gave us a huge fireworks display from off Conchas Chinas, not off the Malecon from the Marigalante Pirate Ship per usual. The bay glimmered with colors and then faded to silver. Wide streams and puffs of white smoke wafted along the shore. The colors were spectacular and brilliant.

Sunday May 8, 2005

Ah, paradise! Back to clear blue skies and rippling waves and surf out my balcony. Up at the roof pool but no one there. Sunday is traditional beach day and the families are out in full force with baskets, thermos’, and ice chests, plus most of the food they will eat during this day of relaxation and swimming. Kids shout gleefully, splashing anyone who is within their range. Pleasure boats sped south with folks seeking a day away from the hubbub. Stayed a while and am pleased to see that the building's roof tiling job is complete. Now I can visualize my roasted takeout chicken tasting up on the roof with friends new and old. It will be done blind, and we will tally the votes sometime next week.

I wanted to see what Lynnda was up to with her remodeling and colorful artistic painting upstairs from the Santa Barbara Theater in Que?Pasa. Very reasonable food is being served in coordination with various live music events. Tuesday is their first anniversary.

Que?Pasa
Olas Altas 351 OT/SS.
222-4477/223-2048
www.mexonline.com/quepasa.htm olynnda@hotmail.com www.quepasabar.com
Noon-5pm, 6-10pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-3pm, 6:30-9:30pm Sun.
Second floor of Santa Barbara Theater, where plays are frequently staged, is Lynnda Lucas's popular colorful hangout where Brenda Martin serves cheeseburger 35p, hot dog 15p, sausage 40p, chicken sandwich 35p, some dinners as filet mignon 60p, grilled chicken breast 50p, and specials such as roast pork and turkey. Live music Tue.-Thurs. 8-11pm, Redneck Mothers Tue., open mic benefit for children's orphanage Mon. and Fri. 5-8pm. Call first.

Today was Brenda's brunch menu offering, and I opted for smoked salmon Benedict croissant with fruit plate for 69p. Tasty with an unlimited coffee cup. The omelets looked good, too. We were treated to a very fine concert at Ritmos Beach Cafe by Don and Rhonda, actually a quartet with lead male singer and harmonica, female singer and electric keyboard, drummer, and guitarist with harmony. It was their final event of the season and the pair heads back to Canada. They announced that they will make all attempts to perform here again regularly come November/December. The palapa stage at the south end of Playa Los Muertos is unique. Tony Tune has availed the locals and visitors alike a very fine, fun-filled location and atmosphere. Just imagine sitting on the beach in a chair or lounger, having a beverage of choice on a small wooden table with service from the bar and restaurant, swaying to music of various styles with sun rays all around, breezes off the bay, and the slowly setting sun. Leave a tip for the server and the musicians and off you head for an evening elsewhere as the final song wafts into the air to applause.

A partial list of the songs:

Jelly Roll Blues
Unchain My Heart [a tribute to Brother Ray]
Cup of Coffee [Java]
Papa Was a Rolling Stone
23 Hours Too Long [an original tune]
I'm Ready for You
Drift Away
La Cocina Económica
Francisco I. Madero at Constitucion OT/SS.
Owned by La Iguana, great 24 hour spot for breakfast all day: eggs 25p, with ham 28p, omelets 28p, comida corrida 40p, homemade tortillas, tacos de maiz 79, tacos de harina 9p, quesadillas 8-15p, tortas 18p, machaca or pollo mole 40p, and pescado with rice and salad 60p. Very clean, with a rear seating area.

Place that never closes, and they serve up fast food at very good prices. Hungry? Get a small plate of hot home-style food, a couple tacos or a sandwich, and off you go with a warm feeling.

Monday May 9, 2005

Up at 7:45am to cafe, shower and get onto the city bus then the ATM to Nuevo Vallarta to team up with Sherrye to head north for our full day in Bucerias, an event to which I had been so looking forward quite a long time. It is a special magical waterfront town, building up as much of this area has been, maybe even more. Met within minutes of each other and off we trekked. First she wished to check a couple local spots for info and then on Highway 200 we drove north. The river splits this town in two widthwise so we opted to visit all the places on the south side first, have lunch, then finish with the northern ones. It is an ambitious plan and we will accomplish all we can, leaving more work for another time. But first was a quick refreshment of oatmeal raisin scone and cappuccino at Pie in the Sky, this longtime fixture. Excellent. Refreshed and ready to rumble.

The day was absolutely beautiful and we enjoyed driving along, stopping here and there. I had a fine map from the Internet which showed all the eateries of the area, most of which were still in business and a few additions to visit. We asked at the door for a menu and business card, sat down at a table and picked out items of interest for my restaurant guide, with prices and a short description of the place and locale. Some places ended high on my list for attractiveness with an inviting atmosphere and menu. Others were best described as a spot for a quick simple meal. As the sun went higher in the sky and our bodies wore a bit, we headed to Sandrina's to see Sandy once again, get a nice creative meal and sit in her backyard garden area amidst plants, decorations and her artwork off the beaten path.

Sandrina's
Lázaro Cárdenas 33
Bucerías, Nayarit
329/298-0273
sandrinasmx@hotmail.com
www.sandrinas.com
Noon-10:30pm Closed Tuesday

Owner Sandra Neumann [Sandrina, in Spanish, Hi!] has created a unique lovely garden getaway where you can enjoy her specialties. Food preparation has a Mediterranean/Greek accent, with wonderful creations as hearts of palm with feta, garbanzo and chile mayo 85p, curry chicken salad 85p or sandwich 45p, Saganaki fried Greek cheese 65p, snapper fillet and garlic shrimp with 2 pestos 175p, pizzas 45-85p, pita with hummus, pesto and chicken 55p, breakfast bagel with scrambled egg, ham and cream cheese 35p, blue cheese mushroom burger on garlic toast 75p plus an array of tempting desserts. Dinner from 3:30pm includes pollo Mediterráneo with artichoke, caper and feta 155p and salmon filet with Hoisin and red chile sauce 135p. You are treated to Sandrina's artistic endeavors, including original artwork on canvas and uniquely tiled walls and benches in a garden courtyard. Margarita Monday, Sangría Saturday specials 25p. Live music some evenings, call first. Call about morning Internet breakfast special plus jewelry by Stefan Wed. and Sun. nights in season.

It was such a pleasant stopover and although we hated to leave, we had much still ahead and she had her own work to do. we had to head back east to the dusty highway and cross over to one place and then head north over the river and turn left taking a western direction into the northern portion of Bucerias. Immediatel;y before the zocolo [plaza or central square] there were several eateries on my list, then parked at the square and started heading north along the bayfront. Beach vendors headed up and down the shore with such a gorgeous backdrop of the entire bay. Refreshing with a cold agua mineral, we rested and collected our thoughts, mapping out the final portion of this sojourn of data-collecting. The number of stops may hit 25 making a very productive and satisfying day! Menu upon menu began to look similar and thoughts were more difficult to put down into words, so we decided it was time to go back to the highway south and home. But we happened upon a place which was a new sister of two Puerto Vallarta restaurants, one of which I had eaten at many times over the past 20-some years, and thought that since we were there, we might as well get some info. Immmediately greeted by one of the owners, we introduced ourselves and explained our aim. She sat us in the midst of adorable rabbits and small chickens, living happily in sort of a park or unrestricted zoo. Tortilla chips were their desire so we obliged them and enjoyed their antics as we looked over the menu and chatted with Irene. Sherrye suggested we stay and have a small dinner so we did not need to seek out another place in an hour or two. Sharing a Caesar salad and hearts of palm from Brazil, we added an order of coconut prawns with a slightly sweet sauce. Plenty of food for an early repast after a formidable lunch.

Cueto's Mariscería III
Hidalgo 102
Bucerías, Nayarit
329-298-2410
Noon-9:30pm

Family's third establishment with many fresh seafood choices as seafood cocktails 75p, 5 soups 59-89p, mariner's special salad for 2 189p, 7 seafood cazuelas 109p, broiled whole fish 109p, mahi mahi, sea bass or red snapper fillet 89p, crawfish from Río Ameca 215p, frogs legs 89p, sea conch 109p, jumbo shrimp garlic or coconut 199p, Sayulita oysters 109p and lobster 3 ways 250p.

Time to be dropped off at a bus stop and onward I flew down the road with a packed bus of locals finished with their day's work, as was I. Energized, I visited my Interent cafe and worked a little before going back to my residence and putting my feet up, relaxing [especially my sore back and feet] in front of the TV and reading some of the day's brochures and menus. It was good to get out of the hustle bustle town and then wonderful to return with a new perspective.

Tuesday May 10, 2005

Mother's Day in Mexico, although the ladies with whom I chatted said it was business and work as usual, with just a couple being invited out on the town in honor of their years of familial devotion. But some places were being decked out with bright balloons and vases of fresh flowers. The florist shops I passed were doing blockbuster business and young people clutched wrapped bouquets or carried small bright arrangements on the town's sidewalks, heading to their casas to honor mother. Very touching and a well-deserved gesture. Desiring to observe the inner tickings of SouthSide, still called OldTown by many residents and visitors alike, I walked up into the lower hills and took in the various sights, the sounds, the smells and finally the tastes of a local downhome quick spot for a sort of Mexican fast food.

Ofe's Shack*
Francisco Madero 366 near Insurgentes. OT/SS.
8am-4pm

Ask for owner Ofelia or Keila. Fine Mexican home cooking especially breakfasts 20-55p, as pork sausage or chop, eggs and hashbrowns 50p. Also fish filet garlic 50p, burger and fries 30p, salads 25-40p, sandwiches 15-35p, pork chipotle 45p, pollo mole 45p, enchiladas Suizas 35p, steak ranchero 45p and vegetarian burrito 30p.

Very basic and laid-back, but the food was cooked quickly and is tasty, served with smiles of probably three generations of ladies. My good amigo Bill arrived for a stay of only 10 days but he has been back twice since November, working on upgrading his two-bedroom, two-bath loft-style condo up the hills from the highway in Alta Vista. He hopes to accomplish a bunch of projects and get a little needed rest. Good luck! He is buying another TV, fan, 4 chairs, redo his large curtains, build an iron gate to enclose his patio area, buy a few more hardy plants, paint some walls and chipped tiles, get a bbq grill for outdoors, some indoor art accessories and wall hangings. He talked a mile and minute, getting in more than his fair share of words, which is sure saying something when talking with me. He had eaten so very little in the last 12 hours, a short layover in Las Vegas, and of course airlines feed little or nothing these days, so we headed out to keep him from collapsing. Back to one of our faves, Takos Panchos, on Basilio Badillo, restaurant row. We just kept ordering from the owner/waiter, tacos and quesadillas, al pastor being our top choice, the one hand carved from that cylindrical roast with a bit of pineapple. That is a must on every visit at least once or twice. He was near crashing but the thrill of being in town with all his plans kept his adrenalin going. We parted so he could start anew in the am and meet a few of us for a special lunch. I spent some much needed time on the balcony, then the laptop working offline and then to bed with the gentle roar of the surf in my ears and curled up with a light blanket to ward off the slight chill in the early am.

Wednesday May 11, 2005

My long-planned and well-publicized including the Internet Blindfolded Chicken takeout tasting finally came to be this lunchtime. We had seven 'lovers', all but two being local residents, one cancellation and one no-show. Sadly, I found out that these chickens are not fully cooked and ready until 2-3pm so we had yesterday's roasters. We had to take that into consideration. TJ composed a tasting tally sheet and we all placed ratings and comments and opening discussed each entry. I am reprinting Joy's article written for the Vallarta Tribune:

"The Great Chicken Taste Off was Gary Beck’s idea. He’s a big fan of chicken and perceives it, quite accurately I reckon, to be Mexico’s favorite fast food. So there are a million and one chicken places round Puerto Vallarta, but which one is the best? Last Wednesday at noon, a trusty band of chicken lovers gathered at Gary’s La Palapa rental to find out. Each person was to bring a chicken from their favorite takeout place; each chicken was numbered and lay in anonymity waiting for the tasters to begin. We ended up with five plates from four different places and learned a number of important things straight away: Don’t ask Leslie to bring roast chicken any distance and expect it to arrive intact.

Don’t hold a chicken taste off at noon--you’ll get yesterdays chickens, and as Adam will plainly and clearly tell you, that’s not a fair test at all.

Don’t say you will bring a chicken to a taste test and then not turn up, especially if yours was a particularly important chicken venue.

Don’t buy chickens from inside supermarkets even though it’s cheaper, because it continues to cook in the plastic wrap under ultraviolet lights and ends up with a funky texture.

Do invite TJ and Helen to any event you host, Chicken Taste Off or otherwise. TJ not only made up extremely official chicken taste test forms for us to fill in, he made pecan tassies for desert, and Helen cleaned up and did the dishes!

So with these things established, I offer the results of the first Chicken Taste Test Trial:

El Pollo Pepe opposite Office Depot was the largest and at 79 pesos the most expensive and impressive-looking chicken. Sadly, it looked a lot better than it tasted.

Pollo de Oro opposite Lays was definitely the best deal. They give you two for one for 58 pesos, much smaller chickens of course but pretty good tasting. Also there’s a chance you’ll strike it lucky and get mesquite but there’s no guarantees on that, we weren’t in luck.

Angela and Adam bought their offering from Pollo de Oro as well, but added tajin spice which made it interesting.

Super Pollo opposite Rizos was voted best flavour, and average value at 60 pesos.

Soriana produced an artistically presented bird that arrived late and got the best chicken vote, but it was a shadowed win as it was brought in late and we suspect it was the only one cooked that day.

The good news was none of the chickens were undercooked.

The day’s disappointment was that none of the chickens had crispy skin!

The overall decision was that we need another Chicken Taste Off - at 3pm rather than noon - because many of the majors were missing - Gigante, Chillis, and the beach vendor by the Pier for a start.

All in all, it was jolly good fun and we are looking forward to doing it again. Come and join us next time, meet some great folks, bring your favourite takeout chicken, and cast your vote.

Chinese and Sushi Taste Offs are also in the works. Thanks Gary for a great idea."

The great fun was it was such a it that we all broke rank saying that we must do a 2nd tasting, later in the day, plus other foods, as described above. New friendships were made plus old ones reinforced. I like the way my idea came into fruition. Smiles.

Bill and I met Lothar, and we taxied up to his condo in Alta Vista. He is so proud of all the work he has done since the first part of last November, right after closing. He came for a small touch-up job and relaxation but has been busy with it since arrival and will not nearly accomplished everything by the time he departs the same day I do in a week. Eeek! That is how ownership goes, even more so in Mexico! But he has a lot of which to be proud and has rentals starting to be lined up for high season. It is a nice two-bedroom, two-bath loft place with a small patio with a view and a good table and umbrella. Since purchasing 6 months ago, he now has two cable TVs, a DVD player, two A/C's, and adequate furniture and bedding. The only drawback is the steps going up or coming down from two streets, but I suffer from neuropathy. Lothar and I stopped at Dee's Coffee Cup for a cafe and chat, then I did my Internet thing and Bill and I met up for a late-ish eve dinner at:

Ándale
Olas Altas 425 OT/SS.
222-1054
www.andales.com andalejorge@hotmail.com info@andales.com
8am-11pm
Popular loud bar since 1980, complete with a burro for pictures, but on two upstairs levels, the food has a reputation of being good and reasonable. Best choices are breakfast burrito 40p, omelets 45p, crêpes as shrimp and spinach in a cream sauce, 3 per serving with fresh fruit 50p, good burger with fries and soup or salad 65p, fish sandwich 67p, black bean soup 38p, herb-garlic bread, linguine al ajillo [garlic] 52p, fajitas 117p, bbq ribs 117p, seafood cazuela 70p, special tacos 59p, Andale burrito 65p, jumbo shrimp, seafood choice with pasta 117p, and fish specials 125p. Tequila shooters.

Our burgers were just fine, and we were the only diners, even the first floor bar was a bit quiet. I have noted that during the past 5 days that the sidewalks are less populated and I see so many less visitors in general. I feel it is the lull before summer vacations start after school lets out and it is time for my departure! Off we hiked to The Palm and enjoyed Ida Slapter's raucous show of great humor and song. I teared from laughter at times, and we immediately decided to return for Friday's show, which is more of a thematic display with an entire new slate of songs. It will be fun. Home for rest, reading, TV and bed.

Thursday May 12, 2005

Decided after some cafe and typing that today was best to head north all along the Malecon, snapping pix of all the new vistas of the construction [extension] and new sculptures I had seen a little bit of and wished my own camera angles. Of particular interest was a mounded artistic sand figure with the creator there collecting pesos for his efforts. I was far from the only one recording the many vistas for later remembrances and sharing. It was a fine day for photos, and I will be excited to see, edit, and upload them to my web groups. I trudged up and down, heading right and left, up the hills, and turning here and there until the hunger pangs could no longer be ignored. I can feel a slight warming trend in the weather comparing the daytime hikes to the first several of this visit. If one gets a few blocks east of the Malecon, the temp rises with the lack of bay breeze. It sure had gotten late, but I felt good about my accomplishments. Desired a little comida corrida at a swell price so climbed her steps and ate at:

Gaby’s
Mina 252 at Hidalgo upstairs DT.
222-0480
resgaby@progidy.net.mx
8am-10pm Closed Sunday
Luz Cristina Muñoz' reasonable Méxican fare as comida corrida [1-6pm] 45p 12-6pm: entrée as carne asada tacos, enchiladas rancheras, chicken mole verde or poblano with soup, homemade corn tortillas and fruit drink in a fun plant-filled spot. Large burritos 33-40p, guacamole with mild salsa 28p, good tortilla soup 40p, shrimp salad 55p, quesadillas 32-48p, tacos dorados 56p, shrimp 140-150p, fish fillets 90-115p, bbq ribs 88p, rib eye 100p, spaghetti with shrimp 98p, large margaritas, and piña coladas.

What a charming, lovely owner she is. We chatted about her history, family, and the old black-and-white photos on the wall, dating from the 1910s to the 1960s with Liz and Dick in one shot looking every bit the top glamorous couple of that era. Wow. Nice repast, comfy, easy, warmly welcome. Then I had to wander the streets back down and south to SouthSide, crossing the far west bridge past many vendors of simple, handmade articles, some of which may be classified as art, others not. It appears to me that the white fair-skinned [and burnt red-skinned] tourists are quite the minority now – it is cool seeing the town return to its rightful inhabitants, though the money of the travelers is extremely needed and the local income drops heavily now until late October. One must budget and save from the good months for the slow times approaching. Many do not and find themselves struggling and possibly losing their means of subsistence. A saving grace is the influx of Mexicans from Guadalajara and Mexico City fleeing the hot, stuffy towns for the beauty and water of this fine bay resort. School will soon be out in recess, so vacation time is near for them. Back home to the ever-the-same vista from the balcony, with waves sliding in endlessly, the screams of kids from below, and the soaring birds circling for a little lunch or dinner. Dive-bombing pelicans make a smooth splash into the water's surface, and with a huge gulp, one fish becomes a meal. They feed in small groups [families?], but the black-and-white frigates lead a life of solitude, except during spring breeding time, when the available males form a huge bright-orange sack under the front bill. Desired something light and within a close walk, so ended up on Olas Altas to spend a little time with Lupita.

Papaya 3*
Olas Altas 485 OT/SS.
223-8737
lapapaya3@hotmail.com
8am-10pm Closed Monday and Tuesday
Owner Lupita Castro graciously offers 30 kinds of smoothies 29p, fruits 29p, yogurts 35p, hot cakes with fruit 41p, 7 omelets 39p, 6 various salads 46-75p, soups 31-39p, pastas 59p, sandwiches with homemade bread 46p, Mexican and vegetarian specialties 35-78p, chicken 79p, and fish 85p. Delivery service. grb

Friday May 13, 2005

Oooh, Friday the 13th, I'm scared! Woooo...Well, life goes on... I met Leslie at the appointed time for a lunch al fresco on the sidewalk cafe seating which enabled us to keep an entertaining eye on the foot traffic as we chatted and munched on comida corrida, her the enchiladas pollo verde and me pork chunks with adobe sauce, paired with jugo de tamarino, nice and tangy:

Sabor Ami
Olas Altas 463 near Francisco I. Madero OT/SS
8am-6pm, closed Sunday

Victor López Sanchez runs this small cafe with sidewalk seating featuring comida corrida [with soup of the day, rice, beans and agua fresca] 40p, chilaquiles 35p, hot cakes 35p, machaca with eggs 45p, hamburger 38p, chicken with tamarind, mango or plum 75p, fish with garlic 80p, bbq ribs 68p and birria or menudo Sat. 35p.

She was kind enough to take me to two boutiques which provide pre-owned clothes so I could look decent at two restaurants in the next several days. My companion will be bejeweled and elegant in fine clothes so she thought just possibly that my jeans would not make the cut! Encore is a fine shop and owner Mikki found me a great pair of gray dress slacks, lightweight for the tropics, but they must be tailored to shorten the cuffs. We headed back to her 'casa in transition', with a new roof in the rear being added for her painting area. She cooled us off with an iced cafe and we discussed art, people, dogs and life in Puerto Vallarta. Feeling it time to head home and get a few things done, we parted and I headed south along the beach watching locals enjoy their natural beauty all around them. Right south of the Los Muertos pier was a septet of percussionists who broke into vocals from time to time to the substantial end of the work week crowd. They were accomplished and entertaining. I could have stood there the rest of the evening. Bill later showed and had long reports of the progress at his condo. He is tired but happy. It will be quite presentable for rentals soon and then during future trips here he will be able to include fun activities instead of working the entire time and getting little sleep due to his nervous concerns. I suggested we go where we did not get to last night and treat ourselves to an upscale dining experience instead of tacos, quesadillas and comida corrida [granted I love all that food but wish a littler more pampering]:

El Arrayán
Allende 344 near Miramar DT.
222-7195
www.elarrayan.com.mx
info@elarrayan.com.mx
carmyp@prodigy.net.mx
6pm-10pm Closed Tuesday

Carmen Porras E.'s and Chef Juan Manuel Cruz J.'s eclectic menu choices of appetizers are plentiful to share for dinner. Place named for a Jaliscan flowering tree, offers old Méxican family recipe specialties include impressive pozole de camarón 35-80p, black bean soup 45p, 4 quesadillas filled with Oaxacan cheese and mushrooms or poblano strips [rajas] 60p, 4 plantain empanadas with black bean and cheese 60p, 4 ceviches 70-80p, 2 duck [pato] tostaditas 45p, nopal cactus pad salad with panela 55p, chicken breast pasilla 120p, chiles en nogada, very fine beef tenderloin mole 150p, thick pork chop with almond pecan sauce 120p, crispy duck carnitas 175p, grilled fish fillet achiote 140p and chocolate or cajeta flan 50p. Seafood enchiladas with hazelnut mole and chiles rellenos de jaiba [crab] are among weekend specials 170-210p. Open kitchen and a very lovely romantic partially covered courtyard, art-styled [sometimes local Huichol work] with Méxican influence. Attentive service with abundant portions and reasonable prices. Many Fridays and Saturdays live music, sometimes Los Frijoleros, call first.

Saturday May 14, 2005

I awoke at 8am with immediate thoughts of the night before and what a fine establishment Carmen has provided, more than a place to eat food, a place to enjoy, savor, communicate and feel warmly welcome to return again and again. With a couple appointments, I needed to run off and get a few errands done. I scampered along the streets and secured my pants for the upcoming two fine dinners of the first annual May Restaurant Week [actually 16 days]. A super opportunity to dine at some of the top establishments of the area at good prices for three course meals, some priced at 149p, others at 249p. After a quick Internet stop, I ran late for lunch by 10 minutes with Anna the editor of Vallarta Tribune, whom I had not met, at Vitea, the new cafe opened by Trio's owners/chefs on the new portion of the Malecon which is still torn up and looking poorly, plus construction hurting their business overall. The crowd was not too bad considering and we opted for a large table so we could spread out and conduct our restaurant biz discussions.

Vitea
Libertad 2 on the Malecón DT
222-8703
http://vallartaonline.com/restaurants/vitea
Noon-12am

Owners/chefs Bernhard Güth and Ulf Herniksson of Trío now have a small artistic Art Deco casual and contempory European bistro, deli and coffee bar offering fine pastries, take-out sandwiches [turkey, Fontina and red bell pepper sandwich with mixed salad 59p] and very creative international items as foie gras terrine 156p, onion soup gratin 48p, smoked salmon 77p, pumpkin crusted shrimp tempura 97p, spinach or roasted vegetable quiche 62p, rib eye 229p, linguine with braised lamb 84p and crab cannelloni 86p. Gourmet tasting menu, 1/2 order and full order. Relaxed setting with tables close together but panoramic views of the Bahía on the new Malecón, open air and great at sunset.

The time flew by as we discussed so many facets of our lives up to this point. we felt it would be good for me to get my name out there for people to see as to reviews of restaurants in the desire to build up interest for my soon-to-be-published guide, the manner and availability of which is still in its infancy. So, I felt I could send from time to time an article for her paper, maybe every couple months. Sure know I am loaded with ammunition and willing to compose! A great outlet and opportunity for me and for places which advertise in the Tribune. Quotes could be used in their future ads, too.

Mama Dolores Diner
Olas Altas 534B near Púlpito OT/SS
228-4061
mamadolores4@hotmail.com
4-11pm [until end of October], closed Sunday and Monday

Part inside, part elevated sidewalk street café since 1996 now owned by Grant Hunermund and Kieran Justason from Toronto, Canada features simple Méxican and American fare as 1/3 lb. burger with French fries 50p, BLT 45p, turkey club 53p, chef's salad 55p, taco salad with choice of meat 53p, meat loaf 80p, fried chicken 75p, mac and cheese 75p, green salad with soup and bread 38p, ½ baby back pork ribs 80p, full 99p, fajitas 90p, mahi mahi 88p, whole fish 94p. Breakfast hot cakes or French toast 55p, eggs Benedict 58p, meat lover's omelet with chorizo, bacon and ham 60p, chicken fried steak with fried eggs 53p. Oct.-March: Sunday turkey dinner with all the trimmings 5pm-10pm 110p. Adult Soda Fountain Cocktails [floats, sodas, and shakes], Mama D´s Margarita Club - Buy 9, 10th is free. Beer 10p and margaritas 20p. Saturday night in high season meet Mama D! No CC.

Sunday May 15, 2005

Another Sunday on la playa...families splashing and laughing, eating and talking, enjoying the hot sun, surf and friends. They refuse to take it all for granted. Great to observe so many people spending their day off from a long hard week of work in pleasure. Do they not seem happier than the advanced societes? I have always thought so, almost viewed it with a tinge of jealously, or maybe it is admiration and respect. Due to a very high tide, the beach area for sitting or wading was cut by about half. Brochettes of camarones were being grilled on mesquite as fast as possible a la Mexico...munch, much, add some bottled picante salsa y limons. Wash it down with cervesas or aguas frescas. Contentment on la playa.

La Tía
Lázaro Cárdenas 173 next to Hotel Eloisa OT/SS
222-7545
http://vallartasource.com/LaTia.php
8am-10:30pm

Sidewalk cafe and inside seating with breakfast 28-68p, shrimp broth 58p, seafood soup 110p, comida corrida of soup, entrée and beverage 40p 1-6pm, smoked marlin salad 48p, melted cheese with chorizo 55p, fish fillet 5 styles 85p, whole fish 6 styles 110p, seafood burrito 85p, chicken 5 styles 65p, smoked pork chops 65p, burger and fries 55p, avocado with shrimp 68p, seafood salad 98p and milk shakes 18p. Popular with locals. No CC.

Restaurant Week, the first annual experience in May, opens tonight. "Week" is a misnomer since this event runs from May 15 through 31, 2005. Hopefully the participation is a success so that it continues year after year, thus encouraging dinners out by locals and visitors in the start of the value or low season. Seems like a super idea to me and I am excited as May is a common time for me to fly into Vallarta since the rental rates drop and the entire area is much less crowded. I can converse with restaurant owners and managers much easier. We opted to inaugurate with a trip to trio, ranked as one of the top area spots. With a three course special dinner [choice of one of the three per course] at 249 pesos, it is a very good value. Sherrye and I chose two of each course so we could sample more of the chef's presentations.

Trío
Guerrero 264 DT
222-2196
trio@triopv.com
trio@pvnet.com.mx
www.triopv.com
6-11:30pm

Opened 1997 by owners/chefs Bernhard Güth and Ulf Herniksson, this quite formal and pricey spot is popular with those who wish to be seen or say that they dined here. Many rave of the 5-star Diamond award Mediterranean haute cuisine. Dress well to fit in with the upscale crowd! Warm beet and goat cheese salad 85p, bbq quail balsamic pepper sauce 95p, thyme sauteed artichokes and mushrooms with roasted garlic and Parmesan cheese 90p, rack of lamb with ravioli mint sauce 293p, sea bass with glazed grapes 245p, rabbit with garlic parsley 180p, seafood ravioli 195p and apple strudel with ice cream. Consider chef's 4 course special menu. Constantly changing international menu with friendly, efficient service. Ask for upstairs dining rooftop terrace vista. Beautiful artwork on the very colorful al fresco walls. Devoted clientele.

It was one of those very special nights again in Vallarta. First the wine sommelier stops by and we discuss California wines [I used to be a restaurant wine buyer and taster] and then Bernhard asks how everything is and I greet him so warmly and excitedly that he asks me if we have met before. Great conversations follow, then Sher was given a fine dessert wine and I my cafe and off we went into the blissful cool eve. Definitely another night to remember in our colorful warm memory bank.

Monday May 16, 2005

Got up at 8am after a good sleep, cafe'd, waited for Bill, a no show, so headed to Internet but ran into Tim, the new rental property agency owner and chatted about his website and incorporating my guide into it via his webmaster. Soon Bill arrived and we headed to look at a couple blue light fixtures and then to his condo for morning pix, a good time with no sun reflections to obstruct the film development. We cleaned up and staged room by room when Tim appeared on the patio with clients, so we had to vacate but luckily the picture-taking was complete! We walked down many steps to the highway and then down more to land at the base of Pulpito where Mama Dolores is. We stopped briefly at my casa and then onward for a late-ish lunch. Not finding a taco stand on my to-do list open today, I suggested the Isla Rio Cuale which we were so near. We returned where he and his brother had had a finer simple lunch and Leslie and I had stopped by which seems an eon ago, or was it just last week?

Bolero
Isla Río Cuale Local 31 OT/SS
223-4634
Noon-9pm
Closed Sunday.

Sánchez Dueñas Veronica runs this lovely al fresco dining under canvas with the Río flowing by. Marlin or ceviche tostadas [3] 45p, good nachos 45p, taco salad: chicken 55p or shrimp 69p, bbq ribs or chicken breast with cole slaw and fries 79p, tasty fajitas: beef or chicken 69p, shrimp or fish 85p, filet mignon with bacon and mushrooms 119p, 5 pastas 85p, combo plate 145p, choco cake 45p and banana flambé 66p. Live music, sometimes blues, call first.

Too bad, too sad that the place is so empty and yet so attractive and inviting. I fear they lack pr and ads so very few people are aware of this fine locale. The food is good, plentiful and reasonable, a combo hard to beat, and add in that it is so pretty there and relaxing, quiet away from the noise of OldTown/SouthSide. Granted it is the end of high season and there are less people in town, dining out, but they deserve better than the volume they have now. We headed in separate ways and I ended up spending time in the condo resting, reading, putting my feet up in elevation and typing. So blissful sitting on the balcony and viewing activity on the beach and side street. Pelicans are starting to head home for the evening in their long trains bird after bird while the frigates dive solo for one last fish bite of the night. Four of us got into the van and drove south right [past Playas Gemelas] to:

Da Antonio
Presidente InterContinental Hotel
Carretera a Barra de Navidad Km. 8.5 between Playas Gemelas and Mismaloya
228-0191/228-0507
puertovallarta@interconti.com
6-11pm, closed Sunday

Top of the Italian elegant genre from chef Christian Testa with top notch presentation on beautiful assorted china dishes: Italian cold cuts with salmon 190p, fettuccine Alfredo 120p, salmon carpaccio 120p, mussels marinara 150p, lentil white bean soup 55p, beef ravioli boscaiola sauce 125p, lamb chops with fine herbs 260p, grilled shrimp and sea scallop medallions 220p, tiramisú, profiteroles and semifreddo chocolate all 55p. Lovely place with floor to ceiling windows for Bahía de Banderas sunset vistas and lovely piano music. A/C.

A beautiful setting with wonderful top notch service, food presentation and taste. High ceilings with columns take you to Italy and then the vista out the front west windows bring you home to Puerto Vallarta. Small party boats sail by, lines of pelicans head south, and the sun slowly sets in bright orange and red in the late spring sky. Then the rooms darken and large round vanilla candles are lit, all this while the pianist plays song after song which we know well. Very talented man!

After coffee and petits fours, we pay and return to town with all stopping to inspect Bill's condo. The others offered advice as to decor and rental possibilities. The lights of the town lie below and sparkle with the waving of the palm fronds and huge banana leaves. A cool breeze wafts over our faces and we say adios and I go back to my SouthSide condo for relaxation until turning in for the night, with wisps of flavors on my tongue and echoes of good conversation and laughter in my happy, alert ears.

Tuesday May 17, 2005

Had a lunch appointment with Paco and invited Steve for a late one, 2pm in the Marina Vallarta. I had the bus all figured when Steve said he had wheels so we would speed out there. We turned at Neptuno and headed for the lighthouse past all the beautiful yachts including one which must belong to some super mogul or star, even bigger than I. It was sooooooo huge. I had selected Mariscos for comida as I had it in my guide, sister of two other ones, and it was close by. Paco said the food was swell. We walked over and got food pronto as they were nearly empty after a long biz luncheon full of extremely valuable info and thoughts of website and selling, the place was packed and we were full!

Mariscos 8 Tostadas [Ocho Tostadas]
Quilla y Proa Local 28-29
Marina Vallarta
221-3124
11am-6pm

A favorite among the local crowd, closes when the food is gone. A bit crowded, especially during the weekends, but the food is worth the wait. The owners specialize in creating classic Méxican treats with shellfish. Enjoy the tostadas: a hard tortilla with your choice of ceviche or smoked marlin 9p, seafood 36p, shrimp, clams, lobster, scallops or oysters prepared with spicy sauce and cabbage, seafood cocktails 64p small, 79p medium, 99p large, special platters 47-65p 1/2 , 93-130p full. National beer 14p and lime or coconut pie 18p.

I thanked Paco profusely and said I would consider trying to get back in July sometime to record his radio program on local events in support of all facets of life here he can touch upon which would be very helpful for locals and visitors. Mine would be on my restaurant guide as soon as it is for sale and a website set up for the payment and shipping. Work, work, once I get back stateside though I could do it from here, ah, to stay right in this condo and breathe in my lovely lady city.

May Restaurant Week: last on my availability due to a private party manana and then off to the airport Thursday. Sher and I opted for many people's choice as number one in the entire PV area:

Café des Artistes
Guadalupe Sánchez 740 DT
222-3228/222-3229
artistes@pvnet.com.mx
www.cafedesartistes.com
6-11:30pm

Reputed by many as Vallarta's top spot with 5* Diamond winner owner/chef Thierry Blouet presenting Méxican and French cuisine. World renowned, formal, very expensive with attentive but unobtrusive service may be worth it for you. Many exquisite choices as salmon wasabi 190p, sea bass fine herbs 240p, grilled garlic tuna 195p, half roasted ginger duck 265p, filet mignon with red wine onion stew 265p, baked osso bucco with grilled lamb chop and marscarpone polenta and garlic 299p, pumpkin shrimp bisque 95p, tuna sashimi salad 115p, escargot and pumpkin ravioli 115p, artichoke and potato aioli terrine 110p, pumpkin prawn soup 95p, fine desserts as apple and pear pecan strudel with caramel ice cream 81p, tropical baba au rhum 85p and chocolate crème brulée 85p. Three course bistro menu 350p or with wine 385p, reported to be wonderful. Dine inside [A/C], in a 50+ year old garden or newer area on hillside with view. New Cocina de autor dining room built in levels, backed by a flowing waterfall with a ficus tree centerpiece, [closed Sunday and September, manager Polo] with signature 3-5 course menus 590-750p. Number one for many worldwide travelers. City ‘landmark’ with world famous reputation. Splendid list of 400 wines by the glass 65-90p and bottle 200-4500p. Live music many times 8-11pm, as piano and flute. At entrance, relaxed but elegant Costantini Bar Lounge with nightly entertainment. Reservations advised/required. Valet parking. A top choice on many lists.

Such a deal, seriously. Choice of one appetizer from 50+, one entree from 6 and any dessert on the regular menu. Seems the bill with a cup of coffee would have set me back 380 pesos without tip and this was 149 pesos1!!! Every single morsel from the 6 plates was sheer delight. A table set for 10 in a semi-private room next to us sat empty and I felt it would work just right for my next birthday... one to never forget by anyone in attendance. I do not think I have 9 friends willing to part with that kind of money with drinks for me. Oh, Donald Trump, Oprah...? The dripping clear teardrop glass wall, the huge floral pieces, the sculpture, the prie fixe menu private room with attention to detail of each inch, not space, the attentive but unobtrusive service, the elegance, the soft music, the lighting, everything except the wafts of cigarette smoke from a close by table, uncalled for in a special place as this is.

Wednesday May 18, 2005

Oops, last full day. Whaaaaaa hoppin…???

Once again, the trip winds down and the memories are placed into their own pocket for resurfacing at a moment's call. I find that during trip after trip enter remembrances of past ones which I had not recalled for some time. A trigger occurs where something happens or is said or a person reminds me of a thought and past experience and usually a smile comes to my face as I retell the event to anyone who will listen. It is not that I am more important or have an edge on Vallarta memories, it is that I wish to share my joys with others to make their experiences here more full. Also, I become more enrichened while others relate their past memories. The streets, the buildings, the vistas in all four directions seems to take our minds on a journey back, way back, to other times here, most from this lifetime. What dumbfounds me is that each successive trip seems better than the last one and I keep asking myself, how can this be? It must reach a peak sometime! I had set an engagement with Maria next door whose esposo works as a mesero and they desired to bring me out to their famous spot and write in detail about the experience. She drove Leslie and I to El Pitillal, east of town, and we arrived at:

Mariscos Tino’s
Avenida 333 between Revolucion and Lázaro Cárdenas
El Pitillal
224-5584/225-2171
www.tinosvallarta.com
Noon-11pm

Place for Mexican family and business special celebrations. Generous, wonderful, fairly pricey fresh seafood dishes and excellent service since 1990. Host/captain is Victor Salvatierra C. Fish fillet 95p, seafood stuffed fish fillet 135p or house specialty whole huachinango sarandeado 178p, oysters 150p, lobster 255p, jumbo shrimp 172p, shrimp cocktail 88p, empanadas 48p, shrimp stuffed avocado 68p and shrimp salad 68p. Sometimes live music 3-6pm, call first. Same owners as La Laguna Tino’s and Tino’s Punta Mita, familia Carbajal Díaz. Well worth the drive to any of their locations.

We were stuffed and my camera needed fixing again, turns out it needed pix removed which the cafe must not have done again. Leslie burned a CD and I finally headed off to meet Bill for tonight. Ran into Tim and Agustin [his rental agency] at Apache's and they said the new chef/owner is from Holland and the food is quite tasty...next trip. Got to condo one hour late and Bill had left a note. So, I taxied up to his Amapas location as very muscle and bone ached in my body and arrived to take shots and more as the sun finally neared the horizon [to avoid some water reflection which had ruined 2 shots prior]. We opted out of the party, maybe later, as not our crowd and the music was loud and dance stuff. We took the staircase in the beautiful view which drops you at Mama Dolores and decided to go see the guys at Cafe Bohemio. The owners were busy maintaininjg the catered food at the party at Bill's condo association but we headed down later for dinner at their wildly successful al fresco restaurant in SouthSide.

Café Bohemio
Rodolfo Gómez 127 near Olas Altas OT/SS
223-4676
www.mexonline.com/cafebohemio.htm
pvx2@prodigy.net.mx
cafebohemio@hotmail.com
5pm-12am, closed Sunday, some holidays, and most of September

In an open square near Hotel San Marino, run by Chris May and Sol Rosenshein from Palm Springs, CA. Varied menu, all very reasonable with pleasant al fresco dining. You may have to wait for a table. It has become the area's hot spot. Méxican and American fare with a flair! Almost all entrées are at or below 100p. Daily specials, New York steak 99p, Coconut shrimp with mango sauce, diabla or mojo ajo 105p, mussels 99p, grilled fish 95p, combo fajitas 85-95p, chicken saté or mole poblano 85p, meatloaf 75p and Cherry Cola bbq ribs 85p. Includes a cup of soup du jour as matzo ball or chilled avocado. Decadence brownie ice cream sundae, New York cheesecake or flaming flan 35p. Many martini and margarita concoctions 49-59p. No CC.

Bill and I sat al fresco and chatted about our first trips here, then together, then last November when he madly placed bids on his condo, then his 2 followup trips to upgrade and repair so he could rent out, then this last one where so much has come together for both of us in our different ventures. We wholeheartedly agreed that this trip was a major success plus a delight being together when we could, dining at some fine spots, walking, talking, laughing, yet each having his own space and prerogatives, not bound to do all together. Add in that the weather was absolutely superb, May being a 'must visit' time of the year, the best of all worlds for us, streets not very crowded, more time to spend with locals with no rushed feeling, no big demands, easy walking in the warmth, sleeping well at night with bay breezes, not dealing with tons of gringo tourists acting rude and bossy, more respect from the Mexican people who still need our valuable American or Canadian dollars. A short walk home.

Thursday May 19, 2005

Had gone home to bed and not to the party as I was so tired and had not starting packing except for the 2 huge plates of white calla lilies on blue which Bill did not want and gave to me. Leslie had argued to hand carry and check my other carryon as I also had a checked bag and my laptop to carry aboard. I looked way overloaded for sure. Those plates would make it home safely, I swear. They were bubble wrapped then placed kin an oversize bag which was tied to make a small handle. Boy, they were heavy. 20-30 pounds I bet. Bill was scampering around with last minute details and I used up some of his time at the cyber cafe then met Leslie for lunch again on the sand at La Palapa. I treated her to a lovely breakfast, hers again the chicken burrito and mine for PV sake fresh mango [been falling from the trees of late] crepes with fruit and coffee plus a couple de-lish sweet rolls. We agreed it was a wonderful meeting and that every trip we would see each other. Off I went and finished packing, took my luggage downstairs, hopped a taxi said hasta la vista to my buddies at the desk and off into the blue sky I soared. Sure was an uneventful trip home though the guy next to me struck up a conversation about property sales and his new fabulous life with a Mexican lady and child. He cannot stomach the nervous high tension of the States and flies north only for family matters. He was a fun guy to listen to and we cleared customs easily and off to my 'condo norte' I call it! But, start making plans for the next visit, longer still, 3.5 weeks! Come On Down...