Mumbai: Inside and Out

If there is nothing else, you must go to Bandra. Day or night, you will find every possible form of entertainment and excitement that Mumbai offers. The Lobby Bar at Sea Rock, although not as popular as it once was, is run by the best man in Mumbai, Melroy. The view of the Arabian Sea, even behind glass, is astounding.

Next on my list was venturing into the hills behind the Avalon Apratments in Powai. Hiking is amazing. In fact, once you reach the top, you are equal in altitude as the planes arriving at the International Airport. Also, the threat of jaguars/panthers kept it thrilling. WARNING: This is not exactly permitted. I was met on the dirt road leading up to a small lake where Bollywood shoots were always going on, and I was denied access by the security guarding the base, but there are other ways. Locals have created their own ways to the top. Keep that in mind. Seeing the massive rusted cages to catch the threatening wildlife felt so bizarre in such an urban area, almost like the coyotes that howl sometimes at night in San Antonio. You know they're out there, but until you see some evidence, it stays in the back of your mind.

One more thing: Velvet Lounge, Renaissance Hotel, Powia Lake. Go. Don't question me--just go. As simple as that. See the bartender juggle flaming bottles. Groove to old and new music and soak up the atmosphere as much as possible.

Quick Tips:

The best discount you will ever get in Mumbai, no matter where you are, especially if you are an NRI (nonresident of India), is to haggle and stand firm. If you feel it is too high, walk away. You'll be suprised how low a price can go. Of course, for all the men out there, any club you will go to frowns on stags. Bring a girl, and she gets in free while you have to pay. But come on--be a gentleman for once.

Best Way To Get Around:

The only way to get around is by auto rick, the fastest, most exciting way to go, especially coming home from Bandra and Andheri at 4 or 5am. No one is on the street, and if you get the right driver, WOW! Hold on for your life.

Mainland China has the best atmosphere I have ever experienced in a country. The food is fantastic and varied. Their soups are to-die-for. The greatest part of all was that, no matter what time of day or how many times I went, there was always a table available.

It can be hard to find. Fortunately, I knew it by sight, and I would tell the auto ricks to go to Sakinaka and to mainland China, and they always got me there. It is on the way to the airport and the Intercontinetal hotel. There is a sizzler across the street. Other reviews of mainland China are on IgoUgo. Check them out as well.

Getting there is the challenge. As you must pay about 100 rupees to be ferried from the footsteps of The Gateway of India for about a 2-hour boat ride to the island that houses the caves. The boat ride itself was amazing, as you will never see a better view of the expanse of the city.

One quick warning: If someone greets you once you disembark from the boat to the island and says they are with the tour, don't believe him. I was hustled out of 100 rupees per person, and there were 10 of us. He requested payment after the fact. In a word, ask how much first. To our tour guide's credit, he did gives us good advice and explained a lot more about Elephanta than we would have known on our own. It was my second week in Mumbai, so my N.R.I. ignorance was his luck.

I had the joy of driving our Qualis from the Gateway of India (in town-south) All the way up to Hiranandani. Actually the driver took over once we reached a cut through-Kailas Complex. Talk about pure raw excitement and madness. Drive on the left but pass on the right and honk 'please'. It is actually a good way of communicating between vehicles. Some Westerners may find it rude at first, unless you've been in large urban environments. But there is a synergy about Mumbai that can only be described by saying that traffic is violently polite. Drive at your own risk, but doing this will give you a better idea of the magic that is Mumbai and how, even in traffic, you can grasp a better understanding of the people.