The views of the lake were the highlight for me. Watching the mist clear to reveal the towering volcanoes across the lake was my sunrise ritual. Anything that can make me happy to get out of bed before the sun is high and hot has got to be spectacular.
The people in Pana, a very diverse group, were a delight. Everyone seemed contented and relaxed. The indigenous people from nearby towns, whether they were working, selling, buying, or just hanging out, seemed comfortable with the many tourists. The business owners, from all parts of Guatemala and the world, were a friendly crowd, always full of information and not uptight about making the sale. Although we have heard most hippies and new-agers have fled for less developed lakeside villages, Pana still has its fair share. They seem to love their town. Tourism is this town’s main industry, and it shows. We were here in December, and national tourists seemed to outnumber international ones about ten to one. Once again, we all seemed happy and relaxed. The only unhappy people we saw were tourists, heading across the lake to find the "real" Guatemala, not seeming to notice they were already there.
The Hotel Monterrey is a great place to relax. It was built around 1910, and even though it has been remodeled various times, it still feels like an old-fashioned resort. It is on the waterfront and not fancy at all, but it has an incredible view across the lake.
La Cueva del Oso is a restaurant close to the Hotel Monterrey that serves incredible food. As much as I liked Pana, its restaurants left something to be desired. We had almost given up hope. We ate here the night before our departure and were in hog heaven. La Cueva del Oso (The Bear’s Cave) specializes in grilled meats.
Nearby villages surround the lake. There are maybe ten or fifteen of them. Most are small, traditional and very interesting. A few are accessible by paved road, a few more by dirt road, and all by a hiking trail, but the easiest and most entertaining access is by boat. Lanchas, boats that function like public buses, pick up and drop off passengers along a predetermined route. Boats can also be hired by the day or hour.
Quick Tips:
Calle Santander (the touristy street) offers most necessities. There is a pharmacy, travel agencies, small stores, hotels, restaurants, and the ATM and banks mentioned below.
Money Matters
There are three banks near the intersection of Calle Real (the main road) and Calle Santander (the touristy road). There is an ATM, which I used, on Calle Santander, about halfway between Calle Real and the lakefront. Twice I had no problem, and twice it rejected my cards.
Warnings
Lake Atitlàn is large and can get very rough, particularly in the afternoons. If you are prone to seasickness or are nervous on boats, plan accordingly.
A Quick History
There was originally a Kaqchikel village here. The Spanish came and built the church in 1567. Agriculture became important, and then tourists started to arrive in the early 1900s. Tourism became the town’s main industry during the 1960s or ‘70s.
Best Way To Get Around:
Walking
The town is small and relatively flat, making walking easy, and there are cute little taxis available when walking isn’t an option.
Public Transportation
There are buses that go to other nearby towns, but lancha (boat) is the easiest and most extensive form of public transportation.
Car
Driving is very easy in Pana, but not necessary. The only heavily trafficked road is Calle Real, the main road through town. Other streets have, virtually, no traffic. Road signs and addresses are almost non-existent, and the few there are are useless since the locals don’t ignore them.
Best Way to Get Here
Car
Personally, I think the best way to get here is by car. We drove to Pana from Chichi. We stopped numerous times to take in the spectacular views and we also stopped at a roadside stand for a bite to eat. From Pana, we drove along the eastern shores of Lake Atitlàn and down to the coast. Although not as breathtaking, this drive was also beautiful, and there were various interesting stops to be made.
Bus
There are frequent buses connecting Pana to Guatemala City, Quetzaltenengo, and Chichicastenango. There is also a bus to Antigua.