Shopping, Shopping, Shopping

Who?
People come to buy and sell from all regions of highland Guatemala. Many wear their traditional clothing, making it easy to identify where they are from. They start to arrive the day before the market by the busload, in trucks and on foot.

Some tourists show up the night before, but most come on day trips from Lake Atitlan, Xela, Antigua, and Guatemala City. The masses arrive around mid-morning. I would advise getting to town very early or the night before to enjoy the market.

What?
The Market
The biggest attraction is the market. It is held on Thursdays and Sundays on the town plaza, and the streets radiate from there, attracting people from everywhere. It actually gets started the evening before. Some stalls are open all week. Although the prices don’t seem any better than in the city markets, the selection is incredible. You can find handicrafts from all regions of Guatemala.

The Churches
Facing each other across the plaza are the Church of Santo Tomas and El Calvario. Santo Tomas was founded in 1540. The locals are very religious people. Please respect the churches. Photography is not allowed in the churches and is frowned upon outside the churches. Entry to Santo Tomas is through the side door. Everything we had read about Chichi, including pamphlets and flyers, cautioned against disrespecting the church, but still, we saw hordes of people doing the unimaginable--sunbathing with minimal clothing on the church steps, going into the church in shorts and tank tops, speaking loudly, pointing, and gawking at the worshippers.

Museo Arqueològico Regional
The museum on the south side of the plaza was closed the day we visited. It is said to have a good collection of jade artifacts. Photography is not allowed.

Where?
Chichicastenango is in the Quiche Department in the highlands of Guatemala. It is east of Xela, north of Lake Atitlan and northwest of Antigua and Guatemala City.

Why?
Shopping aside, Chichi is a fascinating place for religious reasons. The local religion is a blend of Catholicism and indigenous beliefs. The church steps are covered with flowers, incense is burned, and candles are lit in the church. Local celebrations promote the Cofradias, religious brotherhoods revolving around saint worship. There are Mayan shrines still in use in the mountains around town. One of these shrines, Pascual Abaj, is often visited by tourists.

Quick Tips:

When?
Thursdays and Sundays are market day. There are religious celebrations all year, but around Christmas, it is most festive. At over two thousand meters altitude, Chichi tends to be cold year-round. It rains the most between May and October.

Money Matters
There are three banks one to two blocks north of the plaza, and they are even open on Sundays. I used the ATM on the corner of Calle 6 and Avevida 5, a Bancafe, I believe. It accepted both of my bank cards and never gave me problems.

Hotels
There are many hotels in town. We arrived on Wednesday without a reservation and found a room, but reservations would have been wise. On Saturday nights, reservations are a must. We stayed at the Hotel Chigüila. There was enclosed parking and the location was great.

Restaurants
We ate at two restaurants. Tziguan Tinamit, across the street from the Hotel Chigüila, had very friendly service, and La Fonda del Tzijolak, north of the plaza on the second floor, was a great place to escape the crowds of the market for a short break.

Nicknames
Chichicastenango (place of the nettles) goes by Chichi, Santo Tomas, and Tziguan Tinamit.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking is the best way to get around. The town is very small, so taxis are pointless, and local buses don't exist. Driving, at least on market days and the days before, is exhausting. The traffic is horrendous, sometimes taking an hour to go a block.

Best Way to Get Here
Buses come here from Los Encuentros, the crossroad on CA1. There are also buses from Panajachel (Pana) and Quetzaltenango (Xela). Tour buses come here from Pana, Xela, Antigua, and Guatemala City, and from other places too.

We drove to Chichi from Antigua. The drive was beautiful. The longest stretch was on CA1, a sinuous but well-traveled and well-maintained road. We drove higher and higher, dropping down occasionally. At Los Enquentros, we turned right, onto the highway to Chichi and Santa Cruz del Quiche. The road was narrow and windy but in good repair. At first, the traffic was light, the views of the mountains incredible, and everything smelled of pine. As we neared town, the traffic worsened. By the time we hit town, we were barely moving. The drive was fantastic, and I recommend it, but patience is necessary.

A good site for information on Guatemala is viajeaguatemala.com.

We drove into Chichicastenango on a Wednesday afternoon to spend the night and get an early start at the Thursday market. The drive from Antigua was beautiful. As we got closer to Chichi, the traffic got worse. By the time we hit town, the car was barely moving. Libby jumped out a few times to check out hotels. We needed enclosed parking, but nowhere seemed to offer it. We finally made it to the main intersection in town. The street toward the plaza was barricaded for the market to set up. As I waited in the traffic, Libby checked out the Hotel Chigüilà. They had parking. Libby inspected the room and checked in. I was still stuck on the corner. A hotel employee came to the corner and had the police move the barricade. I got through and parked but was informed that I couldn’t get the car out until the next afternoon. That was fine; the town is small, so we had no use for the car.

In the hotel are two courtyards to park in, with rooms surrounding them. There is also a maze of hallways and rooms towards the back of the property. Our room was somewhere in the maze. We peeked into a few rooms along the way. They were all different in size, furnishings, and decor. We went upstairs and downstairs and up some more and twisted and turned along hallways before finally coming to our room. Later, we found our way around by landmarks… right at the green marimba, left at the broken marimba (I think the owner collects marimbas).

Our room was medium sized, dark, and cozy. There were two soft double beds piled high with blankets and three nightstands. At the other end of the room were the small fireplace and a comfy armchair. We had our own bathroom, which was rather shabby but not dirty. The shower had hot water, but it was not quite hot enough considering how cold the weather was. The water pressure was adequate. Above the toilet a large piece of ceiling was missing. We never caught anyone peeking in, and when it sprinkled later that evening, no water came in. The room was actually quite comfortable, and there wasn’t a lot of noise. We were too tired when we got in later that night to build a fire, and the piles of blankets were enough to keep us warm. We had a very good night’s sleep.

The best thing about the Hotel Chigüilà is its location. It is almost on the corner of Calle 5 (the main trafficked road through town) and Avenida 5 (the road that heads to the plaza). There are various restaurants within a block, the bank is a step away, and the market starts right outside the hotel’s door.

The room prices vary as much as the styles. Our room was about US$30. Credit cards are accepted. Our room didn’t have a TV or telephone, but some rooms might. Not all rooms have fireplaces.

Very cold and very hungry, we shivered our way to the hotel door. Our toasty room, with its fireplace and blanket-covered beds, was a few steps behind us. A restaurant that had been recommended to us was just across the street. Being creatures of habit, we scuttled across the road.

An elegantly dressed waiter opened the door, took a good look at us, and asked us to please wait. We had assumed that, like most restaurants in the area, dress was casual. A quick glance around the room, while very clean and pleasantly lit, did not give the impression of a dress code, although maybe I should have worn shoes. The smiling waiter promptly returned and seated us back in a dark corner. After a few awkward questions, we were assured that our attire was not inappropriate. The waiter, speaking in hushed tones, explained that there was a secret meeting of the neighborhood cofradia (brotherhood), and he had asked permission to let us in. I guess we didn’t look to be likely spies, even though the obnoxious tourists inside us were rearing their ugly heads we thought. We didn’t snoop, stare, or take pictures.

We were brought the menus, drink orders were taken, and we were generally fussed over. I don’t think I have ever had such an attentive waiter. He was eager to please in a very sweet way, never overwhelming.

The menu offers an ample assortment of the usual dishes and prices are reasonable. A full breakfast runs from 18 to 25Q. There are three soups to choose from for 9 to 12Q and also three salads from 25 to 30Q. A huge array of sandwiches and some pizzas are offered for 15 to 45Q. There are about 15 main meat dishes, most being beef with the exception of the fish filet and the pork chops, for 20 to 55Q, which come with soup, salad, rice, and bread.

I ordered the milanesa (breaded beefsteak) and Libby, the pork chops. Our soups were quickly served and were hot, delicious, and very comforting. Our main courses soon followed. Everything was good; nothing was great. The portions were average. We finished off dinner with the fried bananas, which were very good.

Just after dessert, the waiter moved us to a window seat. The cofradia had left the building. A crowd began to grow outside; soon we had to stand to see out the window. All of a sudden 20-foot kings and devils appeared and wandered off towards the plaza with the crowd following. Soon we did the same, no longer feeling the cold, to see the celebration, but that is another story.

Tziguan Tinamit is on Av. 5, 2 blocks north of the plaza and across from the Hotel Chugüila.

Needing a break from our exhausting power-shopping binge and not being able to hear over our grumbling tummies, we decided it was breakfast time. A quick look around the market showed many food vendors, but all had long lines and few had chairs. Wanting to satiate our appetites AND rest our feet, we chose to head into the Santo Tomás Market on the north side of the plaza. Here there are permanent vendors and a handful of eating establishments. On the second floor overlooking the market is La Fonda Del Tzijolaj.

As soon as we entered, we spotted a table in the sunshine on the balcony. This was perfect; we could thaw as well as rest our chilled aching bones. The waiter brought the menu, gave us some suggestions, took our drink orders, and left us to bask in the sun.

The restaurant is clean and simple, with maybe 10 booths indoors and 15 or so wooden tables and benches on the balcony, all covered in cheerful tablecloths. The menu is also simple but quite varied. The breakfast section is very short, with the usual suspects. During lunch and dinner, complete meals, ranging from chiles rellenos to filet mignon, are served. There are 18 to choose from and they are served with soup, pasta, salad, bread or tortillas, and a nonalcoholic drink. They range in price from 20Q for the vegetarian plate to 45Q for the fish fillet. There are also many á la carte items to choose from, including soups, salads, sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, and a pretty thorough offering of regional specialties.

After letting us relax for a few minutes, the waiter came to take our order. I ordered the eggs, beans, and bananas for 20Q. Libby asked for an omelet at 25Q. Both included coffee. Breakfast was quickly served and everything was quite good. The fried bananas were great, although I must admit; I was never served a mediocre banana in Guatemala. We had one other pleasant surprise. We had been in the country for 10 days, and although we knew the corn tortilla was a staple in Guatemala, we had yet to be served one! Frankly, we were going through withdrawal. Here our breakfast came with fresh handmade tortillas. They were exquisite and we were in heaven.

The waiter, who had been very helpful and informative, brought us our bill and told us which stalls in the market offered the best quilts. Well rested and fed, we sped off to shop, shop, shop.

Restaurant Tzijolaj opens early, around 6am, and closes around 8pm, but hours seem to fluctuate. American Express, Visa, and MasterCard are accepted. Delivery is offered.

We arrived in town Wednesday afternoon and were surprised to see the stalls already being set up for the Thursday market. Later that evening, after eating a pleasant meal at the restaurant Tziguan Tinamit, we checked out some of the merchandise. The venders, even those just starting to set out their displays, were happy to show their wares in hopes of an early sale. I was hunting for quilts and found a few I really liked. Not having the greatest vision, I chose to wait for daylight to make my decision.

After a chilly (I should have bought a quilt) but good night’s sleep, we awoke early to start our shopping before the tour buses arrived. We jumped out of bed, felt our noses and toes freezing, and crawled back into bed. We awoke again around 9am, and even though we were still freezing, we headed off to the market.

The streets and plazas were crammed full with many more stalls than the night before. We chose which direction to go by where the masses, still mostly national, herded us. I saw many quilts and tried to mentally map where the best ones were. Libby was in the search of extra-large huipiles (traditional blouses) for her mother. Because Guatemalans tend to be small people, finding very large garments can be a problem, but since Chichi deals with so many foreigners, some stalls did have what we were looking for.

According to the locals, there is system to the layout of the market. We never figured it out. Supposedly, merchants specializing in similar items are loosely grouped together. We covered every last inch of the place and found quilts and huipiles from one extreme to the other. I had spotted about 100 quilts that I wanted to take home but was determined to limit myself to two. I had no clue how to get back to my favorites.

We were getting hungry and wanted to regroup. The tour buses had recently arrived and the market was getting fuller. The food stands in the market, which sold some food I recognized (chicken soup and quesadillas) and other items of which I had no clue, smelled wonderful. The crowds around most venders were large and few or no seats were offered. With decades of practice of standing up while eating tacos in Mexico, I am comfortable with and actually prefer this method. But doing this amidst masses of people in constant motion seemed like a bad idea.

On the north side of the plaza is a building housing the produce stands. We slipped in here and followed signs up the stairs to La Fonda del Tzijolak. Here we had a warm breakfast served with handmade tortillas away from the crowds. We sat on the balcony and could see over most of the market. Even from up here I was disoriented. I doubted I would ever find my favorite quilts again.

With our stomachs full and our feet rested, we pushed our way into the market. We passed stands selling blankets, musical instruments, children’s clothing, plastic goods, toys, duffle bags (these came in handy by the end of the day), and a myriad of other items. We passed by a small movie theater with blankets for walls. It was packed full of children on folding seats watching a TV with a VCR connected to it. Admission was a quetzal or two.

Along the way on the search for my quilts, I bought knickknacks and gifts for friends and family. We had to make a pit stop at an ATM. We went to the one on the corner of Calle 6 and Avenida 5. It worked just fine with both of my bankcards (both are Visa, but one is Cirrus and one is Plus).

Luckily, with money waiting to be spent, I found one of my quilts immediately outside the bank. I am not one for bargaining. I am terrible at it. I have witnessed expert hagglers but have never learned. I ask just once or twice for the best price and take it or leave it. I try to figure out what it is worth to me before I start the process. A couple of handy phrases to know are ¿Qual es su mejor precio? (What is your best price?) and ¿A como me lo deja? (roughly, What will you give it to me for?). People have told me it is best to start offering less than half of what you are willing to pay. The vender will then be offended. I am told this is an act, part of the game. I always feel guilty at this point, so I just stick to "What’s the best you can do?"

A short while later, I found another of my quilts, and another… I ran out of Quetzales. No problem, US dollars are eagerly accepted, and at a surprisingly good exchange rate considering the surroundings. Exchange rates can also be haggled. Soon my dollar stash disappeared, as had Libby’s. We headed back to the hotel. We passed the most beautiful quilt I had seen all day. I was despondent. The saleslady seemed to know. She asked if I was out of quetzales. I told her I was out of dollars, too. She asked about Mexican pesos. I had a wad of those, gas money for the trip home, and I whipped them out. Once again, the exchange rate was fair. One beautiful quilt heavier, we went back to our room, only to have to come out again to buy some duffel bags. Thank goodness for pesos.

I don’t like crowds and I hate being cold, but I would come back here in a heartbeat. I do have a few suggestions to people visiting for the first time. The market is held on Thursdays and Sundays. We were here on a Thursday a couple of weeks before Christmas. The Sunday market is said to be larger and much busier. Make your decision about which day to visit according to your tolerance for crowds. If you need a break from the crowds, slip into one of the nearby restaurants, or better yet, visit the two beautiful churches or the museum on the plaza. If you have self-control issues, like I seem to have, only take what you want to spend. Leave the bankcards somewhere else. If you don’t have to get on a tour bus by a certain time, do your shopping late in the day after most of the tourists have left. The prices will be cheaper. My last purchase, the most beautiful and best quality quilt I bought, was by far the cheapest.

Even though I love my six quilts (I couldn’t stop at two), what I most remember from this trip are the people, thousands of nationals, always smiling and friendly, wearing their bright traditional clothing. The sounds, smells, and colors of the market have stayed with me long past my vacation’s end.