Geneva’s rise to international prominence began in the Middle Ages, when its location close to the centre of continental Europe made it an excellent location for trade and fairs and something of a target for assorted acquisitive kingdoms. The arrival of the Reformation and John Calvin turned the city into an austere "Protestant Rome" in the 16th century. Hardly party central with music, dancing, and jewelry regarded as frivolous and illegal, Geneva was still a massive draw for persecuted Protestants from France and Italy.
With a couple of minor blips, one being the rather insistent incursion by Napoleon’s armies, Geneva’s wealth has grown and, along with the other Swiss cantons, has become a benchmark for neutrality and independence. Business and banking thrived and the city served as a base for two of the great free-thinkers of the Enlightenment - Rousseau and Voltaire.
In modern times, Geneva’s geographic and political positions have made it a key international location – the Genevois Henri Dunant founded the Red Cross here, and this position was cemented by the establishment of the League of Nations after the First World War.
So that’s Geneva: wealthy, rich in history, and with a key role in international affairs. We visit regularly, not for any of the above, however, but for the sheer opulence of its surroundings. A few short kilometers to the west of the city lies the southern tip of the Jura, with accessible snowy peaks, skiing, and marvellous refuges offering classic regional food. And that would be enough for most cities, but greedy Geneva is also the gateway to the Alps; look east from any point and there looms the Mont Blanc massif, a serious mountain by any standards. And to go with the towering backdrop, there’s the largest body of fresh water in Europe, Lac Leman.
Geneva is surrounded by France, and, for me, this makes its "Swissness" all the more pronounced. Switzerland is the kind of country you’d have no problem introducing to your mum. Immaculately presented, punctual, and not short of a bob or two, Switzerland would give your parents no cause for concern. If France showed up on your doorstep, however, slightly disheveled, knowing glint in its eye… well, I know who I’d rather step out with.
Quick Tips:
Many European cities are visually stunning; the landmarks of London, Paris, and Rome are part of our shared life experience. We don’t always know how they got into our heads, but they did, long before we saw them. Geneva, however, needs more deliberate preparation; you may have heard of the Jet d’eau or seen its image on a French classroom wall, but the significance of Calvin and de Beze? The intellectual tussles of Voltaire and Rousseau? You have to swot up to appreciate Geneva to its fullest. There are museums dedicated to the heroes of the Reformation and the Enlightenment within Geneva, while the chateau at Ferney-Voltaire, just over the border in France, was where Voltaire played out his final 20 years.
No visit to Geneva is complete without a trip to the mountains; the Jura and the Alps are in easy reach, with skiing, sledging, and many permutations of hot cheese available way beyond the standard winter months. Take the cable car up from Chamonix to Mont Blanc’s Aiguille du Midi – wobbly legs and gasps of awe a must.
Best Way To Get Around:
Geneva airport is well served by low-cost airlines such as Easyjet and Flybaboo. Daily flights from Nottingham East Midlands and Luton cost around £70 return, although this fluctuates according to when you book. Geneva serves as something of a hub for Easyjet, and many European cities are within reach. All the major car rental companies are represented. Here is a link to
Geneva airport’s website.
Auto routes flow out of Geneva south and east into France; in fact, it’s quite difficult to get out of the city without leaving the country. This gives you an opportunity to admire the smartly presented Swiss border guards who may well stop you. Remember that Switzerland is not in the "Euro zone," and duty may well be due on goods crossing the border.
As you would expect in Switzerland, public transport is incredibly clean and efficient, and Geneva’s is supplemented with an extensive tram network.