This is a proud, ancient country. It was the people as much as the sites we encountered that made this trip memorable. They were as friendly as any American large city I have visited. The palaces and temples were tremendous but loved the smells from the different spice/food markets most.
Quick Tips:
DON'T, I REPEAT DON'T drive in Seoul. The traffic moves like blood. I mean if there is a gap the size of an acorn between cars, it is fair game. We saw cars driving part way on curbs to get around someone ahead and the intersections were a game of chicken. Oddly enough the Koreans know how to play the game and I only saw 2 vehicle accidents the whole week. I am so so happy I cancelled renting a car.
Best Way To Get Around:
Walking around town is the best way to get to know Seoul. The subway system is absolutely outstanding with well marked lines/entrances/exits and very clean and crime free. These below street areas also serve as arcades for merchants, some small-time table type and some large.
The larger shopping centers such as Lotte have access also so you can stay out of the weather. In August expect a lot of rain and hot weather.