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Florida

Exploring the Dry Tortugas, Everglades, and Disney

Fast Cat loaded with "boat people" leaving after a day trip.  Notice the pelican hitching a ride back to Key West ! ! !More Photos

by creekland

A February 2005 travel journal

Last Updated: March 31, 2005

Journal Usefulness Rating 6 out of 5
Journal Usefulness Rating
12
Reviews
28
Photos

This was our family's two-week winter vacation, and this year we chose to go to Florida, focusing on Dry Tortugas National Park and then adding Everglades National Park, a quick trip to St. Pete, and a visit to Disney World.

Fast Cat loaded with "boat people" leaving after a day trip.  Notice the pelican hitching a ride back to Key West ! ! !
Best Things Nearby:
The view, the snorkeling, the fort, and the peace and quiet - cell phones don't even work!!! The best times are before and after the boat folks are there. You have the place to yourself to explore, explore, explore, plus, for snorkeling, the rays and other critters come around just before sunset. The place is safe, so my 9-, 10-, and 12-year-old sons could have the run of the place, told to snorkel only with a buddy, of course, but most of the water is very shallow, so we really weren't worried at all. They had as much fun as we did, and like us, wish we were back there. My boys love nature and national parks and aren't into video games, so if your kids are different... the main attraction is the beach and snorkeling (or the fort). Mine stayed on the beach or in the water most of their waking hours (bring sunscreen!).

The coral is fantastic. The fish are huge and/or pretty and unafraid of humans. We saw three types of rays and a green sea turtle as well. Fort Jefferson is a great place to explore during the day, and the rangers often give tours that are worth catching. We learned a bit of history I hadn't been aware of.

Best Things About the Resort:
The solitude and peace and quite, along with the views were the best.

Two notes... The only other campers there with us were similar to us. I'm told some groups come there to party and drink. I'm glad we avoided them. Also, watch the weather. We were blessed warm temperatures with no rain. Should that have changed, our experience might not have been as nice. We, however, had the perfect vacation.

Resort Experience:
This is primitive camping (at its best, in our opinion). The sites are for tents only (no way for RV's to get here). They have picnic tables at each site and shared composting toilets (no smell!), but that's it. Everything else (including water) you need to bring yourself. There is no store to buy something from should you forget anything. We brought water in 2.5-gallon plastic jugs, let it heat during the day in the sun, and had basic rinse showers that way.

There are no reservations. It's first come, first serve, with an overflow area for popular times. We went in February during the week, and it was not crowded at all. Three other families/ couples were there with us.

Site 1 right next to the beach was our chosen spot, and we loved it. We were there for 3 nights, and it still seemed like time flew by too quickly. The national park will let you stay for 14 nights, but the two public ferries that carry campers there only have a 3-night maximum. The cost is $3 per person per night, so our family of five paid $15 per night – you can't beat that bargain and still get such a good view. The ferry ride out is more expensive - I think $139 per adult (for camping) on the Sunny Days Cat - and it’s more for the Yankee Freedom according to other campers.

The ferries also won't allow you to bring propane, so we opted for cooking-free meals. Others brought charcoal. Ice you bring melts after the first day, so drinking water is best since it still tastes okay at room temperature. It's healthier, too.

There are no big lights here, so when it gets dark, it's dark. We opted to go to bed shortly after dark (taking a lap or two around the moat first) and got up early, before sunrise. There were many shooting stars in this predawn time, plus the time I had with my youngest son watching the stars get erased from the sky and the birds wake up was priceless. The sunrise is over Bush Key.

There was only one thing we disliked - the noise from the generator that supports the comforts of the park rangers who live there (inside the fort). It's loud and really seems out of place on this island. One has to wonder if they could switch to solar power for many of their energy needs.

Oh yes, there are rats there, so be prepared to hang food from poles provided and don't keep any food in your tent (unless you want company). We watched the rats scurry nearby - and hermit crabs - but they didn't bug us.

  • Campground Type: National Park
  • Campsite Type: Tent
  • Price Range: $10 - $20
  • Cleanliness: Excellent
  • Campground Facilities: Excellent
  • Recreational Facilities: Excellent
  • Campsite Satisfaction: Excellent
  • Family Friendliness: Excellent
  • Service: Excellent
  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on March 4, 2005

Dry Tortugas National Park
P.O. Box 6208 Key West, Florida 33041

Best Things Nearby:
It's an easy drive to the Southernmost Point and all the Key West attractions.

Best Things About the Resort:
Its location to Key West and the pool for the boys were nice. I also liked the friendliness of the people.

Resort Experience:
This is a VERY crowded campground compared to others we tent in. You have the bare minimum for space and others are crowded as close as possible next to you, only fences separate you from your neighbors. You also hear constant noise from the highway and a nearby airport.

For tent camping, you have a choice of water sites or inner sites. We paid extra for a water site and are glad we did. It gave us one side with a nice view and some semblance of camping.

It does have all the amenities many folks like (or need). Our kids loved the swimming pool. I used the laundry facilities. They had a store for souvenirs and basics. The bath houses had nice restrooms and showers. The people were very friendly.

As a campground, it's expensive and crowded but still cheaper than the motels in Key West (which are outrageously priced in our opinion). If we visit Key West again, we will stay there. I'm highly recommending it due to its location and amenities, even though I would prefer more quiet and privacy. Those aren't options in this area. There are state parks farther north in the Keys, but then you have a bit of a drive to get here.

One note: Since we camp in tents only, I'm not sure of all the extras provided for RV's. They probably have them, but check.

  • Campground Type: Private
  • Campsite Type: Tent
  • Price Range: More than $50
  • Cleanliness: Excellent
  • Campground Facilities: Excellent
  • Recreational Facilities: Excellent
  • Campsite Satisfaction: Satisfactory
  • Family Friendliness: Excellent
  • Service: Excellent
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by creekland on March 4, 2005

Boyd's Key West Campground
6401 Maloney Avenue Key West, Florida 33040
(305) 294-1465

2 American Crocodiles which frequent the Flamingo marina.
Best Things Nearby:
The Everglades was nearby. At the marina you can also usually spot two of the rare crocodiles.

Best Things About the Resort:
It had a good location. There are also ranger talks in the evening.

Resort Experience:
This campground is located at the end of the drive south in the eastern part of the Everglades. It has many sites available. We camp in tents, so I'm unsure of all the extras for RV's.

We chose a walk-in site near the water. In reality, it's more of a grassy park-like setting near the water, with many other campers nearby (depending on how crowded it is when you're there; we were there on a Friday night on President's Day weekend, so it was crowded). There is no privacy in these sites, and it can be a long walk to the bathhouse. One closer bathhouse that appears on the map has been reduced to a sand mound now. We found it closer to walk to the nearby non-walk-in sites to use their bathhouse. They offer cold water showers, but we didn't try them. We were only there for 1 night and skipped showering.

The weekend we were there, the other campers were rather noisy (sigh). We would have preferred a less crowded time to visit.

The campground does provide good access to the marina (a short drive, probably less than 1 mile). Near the marina are the restaurants and a gift shop. Dinner at the restaurant was excellent.

This campground is a good start for many of the canoe and hiking trails the Everglades offers, especially if you start here and work your way out. Anhinga Trail (at the opposite end from Flamingo) is a great way to end the visit.

  • Campground Type: National Park
  • Campsite Type: Tent
  • Price Range: $10 - $20
  • Cleanliness: Satisfactory
  • Campground Facilities: Satisfactory
  • Recreational Facilities: Satisfactory
  • Campsite Satisfaction: Satisfactory
  • Family Friendliness: Satisfactory
  • Service: Excellent
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by creekland on March 4, 2005

Flamingo Lodge
No. 1 Flamingo Lodge Highway Everglades National Park, Florida
1(800) 600-3813

Best Things Nearby:
Walt Disney World--park your car and use Disney's transportation to anywhere you want to go.

Best Things About the Resort:
It costs less than most of the resorts at Disney, yet you still get all the perks from staying on-site. The bath houses were clean, and the staff is super friendly.

Resort Experience:
This campground offers all the amenities I've ever seen in a campground--except for those with outstanding views, of course. We tent-camp, so for those with RVs, check on what they offer. I have no idea and am not checking anything off--my guess is they have it all, though.

From the moment you check in, you start feeling that "Disney" magic. We were welcomed at the gate with the words "Welcome home", and for a while, we wished it were our home!

Our kids loved the pool, there was enough space between us and the next campsite to have some privacy (and trees to help), and the bath houses were clean! Boats are available to rent at the marina, so we spent some time enjoying ourselves in Sea Raycers.

Transportation to everywhere Disney is quick and convenient--and not crowded when we were there (February). You can also use the perks of charging everything you eat or buy at the theme parks to your room bill--and having souvenirs delivered to a store at the campground so you can pick it up later and not have to carry it around with you all day.

For those who don't live on farms (as we do), there is a petting farm animal area for the kids, pony rides, and trail rides available, as well as carriage rides.

Every night, a Disney movie is offered, and there is a campfire sing-along. Restaurants are on-site, or you can cook your own--or (our choice) eat at the theme parks.

This campground is quite nice. For Disney, if one has the money for it, we still prefer staying at the deluxe Polynesian Resort, but when one wants to save money and still be on-site, I highly recommend this place.

  • Campground Type: Private
  • Campsite Type: Tent
  • Price Range: More than $50
  • Cleanliness: Excellent
  • Campground Facilities: Excellent
  • Recreational Facilities: Excellent
  • Campsite Satisfaction: Excellent
  • Family Friendliness: Excellent
  • Service: Excellent
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by creekland on March 5, 2005

Disney's Fort Wilderness Resort & Campground
3520 North Fort Wilderness Trail Walt Disney World, Florida 32830
(407) 824-2727

Herbies

Restaurant

This is the first negative review I've ever written, as we're extremely flexible in our expectations, etc. Herbies looked exactly like what we wanted in a restaurant: local, serving seafood, etc. We got there and it took quite awhile to get any attention paid to us (20 minutes or so). Then the waitress made it around to taking our order. She seemed nice, and we figured, "Oh well, no big deal."


Then we waited, and waited, and waited. Close to 1 hour later, she looked at us and promised us our food was coming - and brought us the wrong order. It was the order of folks who had come AFTER we had ordered. She did this TWICE.


We were a bit peeved at this point (over 1 hour and NO FOOD while others who came after us were now LEAVING, FINISHED). Someone else came to our table and told us she was sorry and, "These things happen fairly often!" OFTEN??? No offer to try to make things okay somehow?


About 5 minutes later, the waitress came again with food, and it was the WRONG ORDER (the third time!!!). We got up and left, with not so much as any effort on the part of the folks working to act like they cared. I suppose they didn't care for us, and it's mutual.


Yes, we have kids, but they are always VERY well behaved and were superb the whole time we were sitting at this place. There were other families there with kids as well. I'm not quite sure why we were discriminated against, but if you choose to eat there, remember, we were blatantly told, "These things happen fairly often." Take your own chances. The roast beef sandwiches we later purchased from Arby's in Key Largo sure tasted good, and this incident sticks in our family's minds as the worst thing we've ever had happen on a vacation in over 15 years of traveling together.

  • Member Rating 1 out of 5 by creekland on March 3, 2005
Everything you need has to be brought in with you.  Great place ! ! !
Snorkeling here was awesome! Our whole family loved it. Most of the water is approx 3 - 5 feet deep (close to the island). To see large fish - and coral growing from pilings snorkel around the north coal docks (towards Bush Key). The fish here get huge - and you can almost reach out and touch them.

If your preference is for large coral and you don't mind snorkeling somewhat away from shore, start at the fourth swim buoy (counting from the right) and work your way back to the third buoy. The coral there is fabulous, and while you are not in super-shallow water it's still only 15 feet deep or so - and very clear. Near here there are also two anchors and a chain that links them lying on the ground.

For beginners who want a nice taste of the basics - or for starters in general - snorkel around the moat of the fort. You will see coral and many brightly colored fish and it's all shallow water. The south coal docks have schools of fish, but if you can only do one, do the north docks.

As a warning, some large barracudas swim these waters - they are friendly. We saw one who looked to be 6 feet long (named "Fred" according to the rangers who live there). We also saw many in the 3- to 4-foot range. None were aggressive.

Our best recommendation for snorkeling is to camp on the island for a few days. We stayed 3 nights and wish we had stayed 1 week. When the public ferries are in port, the place has a couple hundred people poking around, so snorkeling can get relatively crowded. Compared to other more accessible places, it's still not crowded, of course, but if you camp there, snorkeling after the boats leave is awesome. Also, towards sunset is when we were able to see and swim with rays (three types) and even a green sea turtle.

We used our own equipment. We have dry snorkels, which are worth the price, especially for kids, but also for anyone who doesn't like that occasional shot of seawater in the mouth when you opt to go under to look at something (or a wave comes).

The Dry Tortugas is a great place to learn to snorkel. Much of the water is shallow and snorkeling is literally right off the beach. We let our three boys go alone (with a buddy) and had no fear at all that they would get lost, attacked, or drown. We saw everything: rays, a turtle, a squid, huge varieties of all sorts of fish, conchs, and many varieties of coral. Actually, the only things we didn't see that we wanted to were sharks and eels.

We love it there and would easily return again.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on March 5, 2005

Snorkeling off Dry Tortugas National Park
Dry Tortugas National Park Key West, Florida

2 American Crocodiles at the Flamingo marina, Everglades NP
The Everglades is a river of grass. We're told that there is no other place in the world like it. It's flat but varied in its plant and wildlife. Large birds are found all over - everything from vultures to pelicans, egrets, herons, spoonbills, and ibises - to name a few. We also saw crocodiles, alligators, raccoons, marsh rabbits, and an owl. Snakes are around, but we never saw any.

The marina is a good place to start (next to Flamingo Campground and Lodge). There are two crocodiles that tend to hang around - we spotted them up-close. You can buy snacks, groceries, and other assorted essentials here and there are restrooms.

The trails are well marked. Most of them are boardwalks, and all of them are suited for a hiker of any ability. If you are looking for strenuous, this won't suit you, but if you are looking for peace and uniqueness, this is really nice. One trail on this route has an observation tower (Pa-hay-okee trail) to get a view from above.

We particularly loved the West Lake trail (1/2 mile boardwalk) near the Flamingo Campground. This one takes you through mangrove forests that look like they are from another planet.

The Mahogany Hammock Trail (1/2 mile boardwalk) allows you to see some real mahogany trees, not just the furniture made from them. We also spotted an owl on this trail.

The Anhinga Trail (1/2 mile paved and boardwalk), 4 miles south of the Coe visitor center, is the best trail for viewing alligators of all sizes. You will literally see one every 20 feet (or less), at least in the dry season (February), when we went. It's also the most crowded trail, so don't expect any privacy or solitude on this one. Still, even for us privacy lovers, don't miss this trail to enjoy viewing the wildlife that is unique to the Everglades.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by creekland on March 5, 2005

Hiking (General)
Everglades National Park, Florida

For a minor fee the bait shop on the Pier sell "Pelican Food" (fish) which you can give to your winged friends.
The pier in downtown St. Petersburg resembles an upside-down pyramid. It is part of a line of parks and marinas along the shore of Tampa Bay. We parked in a free parking area north of the pier itself and enjoyed a stroll through the parks to get to the pier. For those with kids, there are playgrounds for breaks in the walk.

If one prefers less walking, there is paid parking at the pier with free shuttles out to the main building.

The view is great and looks out over Tampa Bay toward Tampa or back to the city of St Pete (pending direction you are looking). You can walk around the outside of the pier and see locals fishing. One can also feed the pelicans - 10 fish for $5 when we were there. We let our three boys share a bucket of fish and enjoyed watching them. Boat tours of Tampa Bay leave from the area, as do dolphin-watching trips. At the front entrance one can buy tickets for these.

Inside are shops, restaurants, and a small aquarium on the second level. There is also a tourist welcome center staffed by friendly people who can answer questions about the area and provide brochures, etc. On the fifth level (top) you can again go outside for a nice view of the bay or the city.

We hung around for quite a while watching pelicans dive for fish, boats sailing on the bay, airplanes taking off and landing on the nearby small airstrip, and in general, enjoying the great outdoors along the water.

For the budget-minded, there is no charge to get in or walk around seeing the sites as we did (the aquarium can have a small charge - it's free on Sundays, though). For those wanting to be tourists, there are gift shops and restaurants, as well as the boat tours, that one can spend money on. No one is pressured to spend anything, or do anything, and the locals seem to enjoy the area as much as the tourists.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by creekland on March 5, 2005

The Pier
2nd Ave NE St. Petersburg, Florida 33701

View of Ft. Jefferson from the Fast Cat ferry.
Beautiful... you arrive by ferry (or seaplane) from Key West and suddenly see this red-brick fort seemingly out in the middle of nowhere. There are frigate birds, gulls, sooty terns, and pelicans all around - and endless sights of brilliant blue water.

Shortly after you arrive (10 to 10:30am) there is a guided tour of the fort. The guide tells you the history - and WHY there is a fort in this particular out of the way place. One wonders to themselves what it must have been like when there were 2,000 people living on this little spit of land (Garden Key is SMALL - the fort takes up most of the land area).

After the tour there is a buffet lunch for ferry guests - seaplane guests have a packed lunch. Then, many folks go snorkeling to see an array of coral and multicolored fish literally using every color in those 64 crayon packs, I think... Those who prefer to stay dry often walk around the moat, as by looking down from it, one can also see some coral and fish - many times starfish and other such creatures as well.

Later in the afternoon there is sometimes an additional tour - ours was up into the Harbor Lighthouse. There is a small gift shop for postcards, books, and other small souvenirs. Then, for daytrippers, it's time to leave (about 2:30pm). For those who are more adventurous, check on camping there (see my camping entry in this journal).

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on March 18, 2005

Dry Tortugas National Park
P.O. Box 6208 Key West, Florida 33041

Jack & Patti in front of Cinderella
Disney is expensive, so come prepared to spend lots of money on food, and if you're the souvenir lover, for those, too...

We (adults) have gone to Disney a lot, but now that we have kids (two of whom are adults for Disney's prices - over 10), it has gotten far more expensive for us, so we only go once every 2 to 3 years. It's best to get up and get to the park early. There's an opening show every morning. If you don't care to watch that, arrive about 10 minutes after opening to avoid most lines getting in.

Many new people start looking around right away. Repeat visitors head to some of the popular rides quickly. If you want to ride Dumbo, head there quickly, as that ride does not have a Fast Track line and the line will last forever later in the day. Check your park list for popular rides you want to do that don't have Fast Track. What you want to do first is based on your preferences, as there are many popular rides.

Fast Track is one of the best systems ever invented. It allows you to get a ticket, return to the ride within a timeframe (printed on the ticket), and then head to the front of the line with a 10-minute (usually less) wait time. You literally walk past everyone else who has been waiting forever. They could have done the same if they had chosen to. It is available for many of the popular rides and you should use it. That's what it's there for!

During the crowded midday, we head over to Tom Sawyer's Island and let the kids have the run of it. The hubby and I relax and explore - or enjoy the rocking chairs and people-watch. The kids meet us at the appointed time and we head back to the rest of the park.

If you can afford it, kids love eating at Cinderella's Castle, though you need priority seating to get in most of the time. (Call Disney's priority seating phone number in before your visit.)

During the parade times, lines can be shorter for rides - just be sure you are on the side of the parade route you want to be on. Watch the Electrical Parade at the end of the day - it's gorgeous. Also watch the Wishes fireworks show at night - it's REALLY nice!

If you're staying at Disney - any resort - shop midday, when the park is crowded, and have your packages sent to your room. In the evening, the gift shops are VERY crowded.

In general, service and cleanliness at Disney is second to none for theme parks - and it's THAT magic that makes it really special. Ask any employee any question and everyone is eager to please you - which is exactly what you want on vacation.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by creekland on March 18, 2005

Disney World
Walt Disney World Walt Disney World, Florida

Boys posing with a Living Statue.
Epcot tends to be either a park people love or hate. The word Epcot stands for "Experimental Prototype Community of Tomorrow," and the place is set up to learn about where we (as a people) have been, are now, and are going. All exhibits and rides are set up for learning as well as having fun. We really enjoy this - our whole family - kids included. We pick it as our favorite of the Disney parks. Some folks hate it. Use your own discretion...

Get there early and bypass Spaceship Earth for now - the line will be nonexistent later in the day. Overall, though, Epcot handles crowds better than any of the other parks. You can have as many people there and not realize it, which is nice! Fast Track is available for most of the popular rides such as Test Track - just be sure to get a ticket for it early, as they often run out.

If you can afford it, pick one of the restaurants in World Showcase for lunch (it's less expensive than at supper). All of the food there is prepared by people from the native countries - workers are natives as well - so it is a great "different" dining experience. On this trip we ate at Morocco's Marrakesh restaurant. It was delicious, and the service was excellent! The street performers each country has are worth watching, too. Our favorite is the living statues in front of Italy - watch them and you'll see why!

If you are staying at one of Disney's resorts, shop in the midday and have gifts sent to your room. In the evening, gift shops are VERY crowded.

At night they have Illuminations over the lagoon. It's a nice laser and firework show and is viewable in most areas around the lagoon. Find a spot early, though, or you will suddenly find all those people you didn't realize were there.

Warning: To truly do all of Epcot (if you like the park) will take 2 days, as it's impossible to see everything in just one.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by creekland on March 18, 2005

EPCOT Center
Walt Disney World Walt Disney World, Florida
407/WDW-MAGIC

Boys ready to go to the Dry Tortugas.
This is one of two ferries that takes public (paying) passengers or campers from Key West, Florida, to Dry Tortugas National Park (68 miles to the West of Key West). The trip lasts between 2 and 2 1/2 hours and costs approximately $110 per adult ($80 for 16 and under) for day trippers and $150 per adult ($120 for 16 and under) for campers--if they don't change their rates, of course. National Park entrance is an additional $5 per adult extra, unless you have a National Park Pass.

Included on the trip is a continental breakfast, a cold-cut deli lunch at Fort Jefferson, and free leased snorkel gear.

The boat can carry approximately 100 guests and can be fully booked, so reservations are recommended. They only carry six campers per trip, so reservations are absolutely needed if you want to camp (as we did).

We found the boat to be quite pleasant--an easy ride across the straights--though we had relatively calm days. In rough weather, I don't believe they sail.

The staff on our way out was literally awesome. They took time to show us some of the best snorkeling areas (on a map), they talked with both us and our kids, and they were extremely professional with handling the boat and breakfast. We loved that crew.

Our way back had a different crew--one we could have done without! Three of the four crew members were mostly engaged with petty silliness among themselves--throwing ice or cold water at each other, etc., and making comments (among themselves, but loudly) that I would have rather my kids not overheard--comments related to parties, personal life, etc. There was one other family with kids on this boat--they brought those kids coloring paper and crayons and talked with them about their visit while literally ignoring my kids and our family, even though the kids were approximately the same age. We were disgusted with that crew and didn't tip them one dime--I really wish we could have tipped our first crew (tipping is encouraged on the way back--not out). If I had known the crews were going to be totally different--and different in character as well--I would have purposely given a nice tip to our first crew for all the extras and courtesy they provided for us.

We camped for three nights, so we saw the schedule well. The boat leaves Key West shortly after 8am and arrives at Ft. Jefferson between 10:15am and 10:30am. Each time the boat arrives, there is a guided tour soon afterwards. Usually this tour is led by one of the crew. Sometimes there are also ranger-led tours later in the visit (we got a visit up into the Harbor Light by a ranger). The general tour gives a very good history of the fort.

Lunch is served from 11:15am to 12:15pm and is a nice deli buffet. Most people go snorkeling or walk around the moat afterwards. The boat starts loading to return at 2:15pm (it has a fresh water rinse for those who swam) and arrives back in Key West around 5 or 5:30pm.

Despite the one bad crew, we would take the Fast Cat again, as it is a little less expensive than the alternative. However, if we weren't on a budget, I would try to Yankee Freedom to compare--then figure out which boat I liked the best.

Overall, practically everyone who took the trip enjoyed it. My whole family sure did. The Tortugas are gorgeous, and the price to get out there, well, we considered it more or less to be a "cover charge." It did well at keeping out those who don't know how to behave themselves... except for the crew back, of course. One of the four there was "professional", and we felt sorry for him having to put up with the others. Had there been a way to tip just him, we would have.

About the Writer

creekland
creekland
East Berlin, Pennsylvania

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