Beautiful New Mexico

If you can get yourself an invitation to the Indian Dances on one of the local reservations, it is something that you will never forget. In Spring and Fall, biking through the Santa Fe/Taos area is a real treat, and the skiing in winter is phenomenal. Santa Fe and Taos are artist's communities, so be sure to take advantage of the local cultural events - everything from plays to small concerts to art shows.

Quick Tips:

Hiking off the beaten track in New Mexico is awesome<</i>!! Sandia and Sangre de Christo mountains have great trails; for a real treat, drive yourself far from anywhere and start treking - you never know what you'll find see photo)!!

Best Way To Get Around:

Santa Fe is small, so you can walk the whole town. I have biked 100s of miles from Santa Fe to Taos and all around the region, and the constantly changing terrain is perfect for a tough, challenging ride. It is sometimes difficult to get a direct flight from the Northeast to Albuquerque - we like to make our connection throuth Texas.

We really liked the wonderful ammenities at the Inn of the Anasazi. The rooms are beautiful - ours was extremely comfortable with a large, comfy bed, lots of pillows and even a remote-controlled kiva (adobe fireplace). Most rooms have no view, but they are so nicely decorated and comfortable that it doesn't really matter. The hotel boasts exposed beams, stucco walls, lots of Southwestern art (some of it is very beautiful) and all the accoutrements that are to be expected in an upscale hotel. The public rooms, especially the library with its fantastic fireplace, are all very tastefully appointed and nice to hang out in. The hotel is relatively small and has a cozy feel. Inn of the Anasazi is very centrally located (just a block to the main square) and the service is excellent. The restaurant is quite good, although they overdo the Southwestern influence just a tad for my taste - you can't get anything - not even breakfast - without some sort of chilies. This hotel really embodies the laid-back, comfortable feel and spirit of beautiful Santa Fe - it made our visit complete.

We stayed here while biking across the northern part of New Mexico on a trip organized by Butterfield and Robinson. The bike tour firm''s ability to find excellent out-of-the-way lodging that is different from standard hotels did not disappoint here. The house once belonged to eccentric millionaire Mabel Dodge Luhan, who moved to New Mexico to get away from the hustle of New York society, commune with nature and art, and to be with her Indian lover.

D.H. Lawrence, Carl Jung, and Georgia O''Keefe (who painted several famous pieces here) all were guests of Luhan, who ran an artist''s colony at the house. The staff describe the place as a "healing, creative place where natural learning and change are the norm." We thought it was a charming, homey place, and we enjoyed our rustic room with exposed beams and adobe kiva. There was a communal great room to relax in, delicious chocolate chip cookies, and a lovely dining room where we were served breakfast enchiladas family-style. It was a great place to relax after 50 miles on the bike.

The Luhan house is not in Taos proper - but a bit off the beaten path, but it truly evokes the essence of arty, funky Taos. It''s a great getaway. We were there several years ago - but I checked on the web and am happy to see that it is still operating under the same pretenses. It''s a truly different experience.

This is a beautiful old-style grand hotel, with a large, open lobby surrounded by a 2nd floor balcony and wonderful Southwestern decor. The rooms are spare (in accordance with traditional Spanish/Southwestern decor) and are extremely comfortable. The hotel is a short walk to the downtown area of Albuquerque, and is about 15 minutes from the International Airport.

I stayed here for two nights while on a bike tour with Butterfield and Robinson. B&R has a wonderful ability to locate quality B&B''s that have a lot of character and terrific service. We were not disappointed at Casa Escondida. The B&B is located on the High Road, almost equidistant between Taos and Santa Fe. Tucked away in a beautiful field and surrounded by rolling hills, the B&B lives up to its name, which translates to ''hidden house.'' We had ridden quite a distance when we peddaled up the long driveway, and were exhausted upon arrival. We were treated royally and made to feel right at home. The rooms were sooo comfortable, and we were able to use the wonderful hot tub hidden away at the back of the garden to relax us after our ride. A great meal was served to us in the back yard under the stars. Breakfast was delicious and filling. The cozy rooms were filled with antiques and other homey touches. I slept like a baby here - you hear nothing at night but the sounds of the mountains, which are so soothing.

The location is perfect for those who want to explore Santa Fe as well as the area around it (as long as you have a car or a bike). It is a peaceful oasis that is central to Santa Fe, Taos and Chimayo. The High Road itself is a breathtaking mountain ride that takes you past Santaurio Church (known for the miraculous healing powers of the dirt located underneath the church), famous weaving houses, and spectacular scenery - it''s worth a drive, or better yet, rent a bike and cycle it!

I have had the pleasure of eating here several times, including a fantastic New Year's Eve dinner with a large group of friends. The staff is wonderful and the "Santa Fe-style" food is to die for. Santa Fe-Style can be characterized as an arty blend of Mexican, Spanish, and American cuisines, often with a hearty dose of the local green and red chilis. I have had everything from filet mignon to special venison for New Year's Eve and have never been disappointed. The outdoor courtyard is lovely to dine in warm months. I always look forward to coming here when I visit Santa Fe.

Rancho de Chimayo is no doubt a touristy place, however, its a lot of fun and the New Mexican food is soooo good!!! Located on the High Road between Taos and Santa Fe, the place attracts people from all over and does quite a business. The food is hybrid Mexican (they like to say 'New Mexican'), the portions are huge and the menu is loaded with options. None of it is good for you - I had chicken and pork flautas, which are deep fried. Not my normal fare, but it was yummy. My friends all had messy, greasy dinners loaded with cheese and chilis - we just loved it. Every once in a while, you have to go to a place like this. It's good for you, even if the food isn't!
We ate outside on the patio behind the restaurant at long tables. The atmosphere is happy and bustling, and the staff is good-natured. It may take a while to get your food, but who cares! We were there for the whole experience, and it was all fun.

An interesting note - the local clientele was a lot of fun as well. I met some folks from the table next to ours who had arrived from Espanola (the low-rider capital of the world) in their low-riders. When I said that I had never seen such a car in person, they took me out to the parking lot after dinner and let me drive their souped-up cadillac around the lot! (Quite a leap of faith considering I arrived on a bicycle!) We found just about everyone in NM to be this kind, fun, and outgoing.

My dad (an avid cyclist and veteran of many B&R trips all over the world) and I went on this trip in the early 90s, and were among a group of "guinea pigs" for Butterfield and Robinson's bike tour of New Mexico which covered Taos-Garcia Park-Chimayo-Cordova-Santa Cruz Lake-Santa Fe-and Lamy. The trip was hard - there were numerous steep hills and difficult off-road terrain. This particular trip included both on- and off-road riding. We were provided with mountain bikes and switched off nobbies and slicks depending on the terrain for the day. We had a great time and were really challenged, although I think the trip proved to be harder than B&R intended, because they discontinued the exact route we traveled shortly after our trip. I am happy to see that they have New Mexico back on their destination schedule again, although now they offer a walking and biking trip which doesn't seem to be quite as arduous as the trip I took. I am sure that this trip is as well-planned and exciting as ours was.

As always with B&R, they met us at lunch every day with terrific picnic spreads out in the middle of no-where. It was great to come upon the pre-determined lunch spot and see a guide barbequeing a wonderful lunch that was true to the local cuisine. Our B&B's each night were always first-rate - never run-of-the-mill. Attention to detail is B&R's specialty. Our maps were excellent - no-one ever got lost. We visited local areas of interest along the way (Taos Pueblo, galleries, Santa Cruz Lake, churches...). B&R provides each rider with a bike fit to your specifications (so you don't ruin yours in transit), excellent, knowledgeable guides, transfers from the airport, and a sag wagon for your bags and equipment (and for you if you need it!) They provide everything you don't have time to take care of yourself - so you can just concentrate on riding and having a great time. The guides are always there for you, but you never feel as if they are "holding your hand" or hovering (unless you want them to) - they let you ride and respect your ability to manage yourself and your bike. The tour has about 18 other rides participating. We found our niche with a couple of folks and biked in a small group most of the time, but were able to split off when we felt like it. There was no pressure to spend time with the group, although we met some really nice folks that we wanted to be with. The tours tend to attract people who are outgoing, athletic and adventuresome.

We got to experience the beauty and serenity of New Mexico first-hand from our bikes. We went places you couldn't go any other way. It was a great trip - one that I often think about to this day. I strongly recommend biking New Mexico with B&R.

The beauty and spirituality of Taos Pueblo will blow you away. The multi-storied adobe-brick buildings have been standing for hundreds of years, and have been continuously inhabited for almost as long. Tribe members still live and work in the ancient buildings today, and tours of the village are given regularly. The sight was designated a World Heritage Site in the early 1990s, and for good reason. The Pueblo is remarkable in so many ways - the architecture, its ability to endure centuries, its spiritual symbolism, and the culture and people it represents are all awe-inspiring. Be sure to allow yourself plenty of time to properly visit Taos Pueblo - it will amaze you on so many levels. I also recommend taking a tour of the area - they are offered regularly by guides belonging to the Tribe and provide fascinating information and Tribal perspective.

Also, if you are in Taos when feast day Dances are being held, I strongly recommend doing everything you can to attend. Visitors are invited to watch most of the Dances, but as they are relgious ceremonies, be sure to act with the proper reverence and solemnity. Check out this website to find out when tribal dances are held - they are incredible to watch and shouldn't be missed: http://www.indianpueblo.org/taos.html.

I was there in late December through late January. We had terrific conditions (powder, no ice, dry clear weather, not too cold!!) and the crowds were small, manageable and courteous. I am used to skiing with a nasty crowd on ice in New England, so I was a stranger to the great conditions and friendly skiiers and staff. We skiied mostly intermediate trails, which were peaceful, well-groomed, moderately challenging, and offered fantastic views.

The lifts were smooth, the tiny lines moved quickly, and the lodge was nice enough. The staff was great. I had some trouble with a new boot that I had purchased back East, and the ski shop staff cheerfully helped me out and didn't charge me for making minor alterations to the instep of my boot.

Even the ride up to the mountain is nice. The ski area is about 15-20 miles from the center of Santa Fe, but it will take you about 40 minutes to drive the curving roads up the Sangre de Christos to reach the base. Shuttles to the lodge from remote parking areas run regularly and are easy to catch. On the way to the ski area on my first day, I spent half the drive hanging out the window of the truck trying in vain to take pictures (it's THAT beautiful!).

Skiing Santa Fe Ski Area is a rewarding experience. It won't offer the most challenging skiing in the world (try Taos if you're looking for steep verticals and crazy black diamonds), but Santa Fe will provide you with an enjoyable, hassle-free day. It's a good place for families with little skiiers and beginners.

This place is very cool - the sophisticated decor is straight out of the 20s and 30s when leopard banquets and deco chandeliers were all the rage. The bartenders will make you a martini or cosmopolitan at the sexy curved bar, which is uplit to add to the glam ambience. There is often live Jazz music - Santa Fe has some pretty talented locals who often grace the stage. I don't drink, so I can't remember what the drink prices were - I think it's safe to say that they were on the mid- to high-end for Santa Fe (after all, it's an upscale place!).

A Bar is perfect for a date or after-dinner drink. I went with a small group and we had a blast!

My friends in Santa Fe, some of whom are gay, LOVE Drama Club, and its the best place in Santa Fe so do some crazy dancing! Everyone does their own thing here, and the crowd is great! If you are easily freaked out or judgemental, you need not stop by. The club features different types of music on different nights. There is even a poetry night on Tuesdays. Wednesdays feature 70's and 80's dance music, and on weekends all hell breaks loose. They have awesome DJs (and even attract visting DJs on weekends). The club often features live local music, and occasionally is paid a visit by a national band on tour (there is usually a higher cover charge in these instances).

This is a great place to let loose! Santa Fe is a strange town, and the best of what makes it quirky is often at the Drama Club. Closing time is 2 a.m.

The Andrew Smith Gallery showcases extremely high quality work by well-known photographers. It is located just a few blocks from the main square in downtown Santa Fe, and is worth a look even if you aren't in the market to buy (or even if you don't know anything about fine art photography). They always have very fine work on display, and it is a real treat to see what they have in store.
I had the good fortune to see some awesome turn-of-the century portraits of Native American Indians by Edward Weston at this gallery. The images were so beautiful and moving, I will always remember them. Stop in and see what moves you - you will be glad you did.

If you have the time, I strongly recommend getting yourself a 4 wheel drive and heading out South down Route 25 from Santa Fe. I have driven about 2 hours south and west of Santa Fe into the middle of nowhere and have been so amazed by what I came across. We've pulled off dirt roads, parked the truck and just walked, taking pictures and taking in the unbelieveable beauty of the scenery. New Mexico is a land of "big sky," and there's no better way to really get in touch with it's giant landscapes than to get away from town, put yourself in the middle of nowhere and start walking.

Now, I am not advocating trespassing on Indian land or private ranches, nor am I suggesting that people go out and get themselves lost. But, I do recommend that you inquire around town for some nice driving routes. Ask the locals if they know the location of some cool rock formations or good places to get away from it all. Take a pad and pencil with you and write down where you turn so you can get back again. Bring your cell phone (but keep it in the glove compartment for emergencies only) and take a picnic lunch. Be aware of where you are and watch for signs that denote reservations.

You'll be bowled over by the incredible beauty of New Mexico off the beaten track, especially if you are like me and are not from a land of big mountains and sky (I'm from the coastal Northeast). Give it a try - just do your homework first, take precautions, be aware, and respect the land. You won't regret it!