Dubrovnik- LIbertas

Dubrovnik, unlikely may cities in Western Europe, is a city on a human scale. It does not have fantastically impressive monuments or magnificent churches, but it has a warmth and a buzz that set it apart, and a quiet self-assurance that seems to say it has nothing to prove. It had great food, great atmosphere, and one of the best city wall walks in the world.

Quick Tips:

We stayed inside the walled part of the city, and I would recommend doing so to anyone visiting. It may be worth looking into private apartment rentals, but we did and were not disappointed.

Best Way To Get Around:

It is more than possible to spend a week in Dubronik itself and walk everywhere. Within the walls, the city is very compact and there are no cars. There is a reasonable pebble beach within 5 minutes of the city walls, and taxis are plentiful and inexpensive if you are looking to go a little farther out.

A number of companies offer boat cruises from the main port area of Dubrovnik. One of the most popular is the all-day picnic cruise, which, depending on the time and tides, takes in two or three of the nearby Elaphite Isles.

The cruise is done in a reconditioned and repainted fishing boat, which is lovely and evocative. Unfortunately, though still kitted out with mast and sails, the boats are now driven by diesel engines, which takes away a little of the romance.

The coastline north of Dubrovnik is stark and imposing from sea level, as are the city walls of Dubrovnik themselves.

The tour doesn't spend longer than a couple of hours at any island, so there is not really enough time to explore. The island beaches are within easy walking distance of where the boat drops you, not great, and certainly no better than the town beach in Dubrovnik itself.

The lunch supplied and cooked on the boat is fantastic. It is very simple but very good. They have barbeque vegetables (aubergine and peppers), barbeque sardines, and great chunks of crusty bread, all drizzled with olive oil. The freshness of the fish and vegetables means that nothing more than a few minutes on the barbeque plate is needed to make them delicious.

A word of warning, though - the boats aren't that big and do rock a little when out of the cover of the islands. If you are prone to seasickness or have young children, have lots of water on hand.

Dubrovnik is a not a hectic city, but it has an energy and a buzz that gets under your skin. The Dominican Monastery, tucked away in the southeast corner of the city, however, is an oasis of tranquility--a calm and beautiful place to stop, meditate, and contemplate.

Completed in the 14th century, the Dominican Monastery is based around a central courtyard cloister, open to the sky and flourishing with fruit trees and greenery. The high walls lend the light in the courtyard a softness not always seen in other areas of Dubrovnik.

Just off the courtyard, the monastery church is a huge Gothic vault, light and uplifting.

The Dominican Monastery also contains a magnificent collection of Gothic and medieval art, including illuminated manuscripts, alterpieces, and reliquaries. This pre-Renaissance art is something of an acquired taste, but even if you don't appreciate the artistry, it is difficult not to be moved by some of these pieces.

If you go to Dubrovnik, and if you are there for anything more than half a day, you will likely walk around the city walls anyway, so in some ways, this journal is redundant.

Having said that and having recommended that you do take the walk, I would offer the following suggestions, which may well be worth considering:

The walls provide a great overview of the city, so if you are in Dubrovnik for a few days or longer, get up on the walls as early in your stay as you can.

The walk takes over an hour and a half, and more than two with children. We did the walk with our four-year-old daughter, though, so don't be put off by having young children. Take plenty of water up with you, and wear a good hat.

The walls are busy, and parts of them are steep, so take your time.

Most locals we spoke to recommended doing the walls in the morning, but given that they don't open until 10am, you are likely to still be up there at midday, so be aware of that.

Having said all that, nothing remains than to recommend that you not skip this attraction. The walls are kept in great condition and are very safe. The views are magnificent, and as with any city wall walks, there is a slightly ridiculous sense of achievement when you have completed the circuit.