Las Cruces: Bridging the Old West to the Space Ag

Las Cruces is situated near the Rio Grande river northwest of El Paso. It was the jumping off point for settlers to make an all night race across the desert to survive the heat and dry surroundings away from the river. The travelers may have started from the town square of Old Mesilla which is still anchored by a Catholic mission-style church and original storefronts, including the building in which Jesse James was tried. The Mesilla valley hosts a flourishing agricultural industry with large groves of pecan trees, but the desert takes over abruptly where the irrigation stops.

Las Cruces sweeps up to the base of the Organ Mountains. The name derives from a series of sharp peaks that resemble organ pipes. Just across the mountain is the White Sands Missile Range. This range complex has figured prominently in the nations space and defense. Trinity site was the location of the first test of an atomic bomb during World War II. Subsequently, WSMR become home to a series of missile and rocket tests that continue to this day. You may just happen to see one if you get stopped in a roadblock on top of St. Augustine Pass.

Quick Tips:

My travels to Las Cruces have been business related, but over the years I have had spare moments to enjoy other aspects of the area. A first priority should include driving out to Old Mesilla. The square is quaint, old, and still very much a part of local life as well as serving as a tourist destination. The old west buildings feel like they are awaiting the sheriff to clank down the walk with cowboy boots and spurs. Indeed, Jesse James was caught and brought back to the square to be tried. There is a gazebo in the center, benches all around and a very slow, easy feeling. Several restaurants and shops border the square or are within walking distance. Drive further along the valley to enjoy the shade of mature pecan groves and stores specializing in pecan, pistachio and similar products. Local museums are described at www.lascruces-culture.org.

White Sands National Monument takes nearly a full day trip unless you drive, take one peek and rush back. It cannot be appreciated fully until you cross over a dune away from your car and get the effect of being in a completely white world.

Best Way To Get Around:

Las Cruces offers a central hub for exploring southern New Mexico. A car is essential, and drives are length to almost anywhere. Be sure to keep plenty of gas in the tank, and it is not a bad idea in any desert to keep a bottle of water or two on hand. When traveling along Highway 70 to the northeast (e.g., to White Sands National Monument, Rui Doso) be sure to stay informed about roadblocks on Highway 70 due to tests at the Missile Range (505-678-1178). The road is blocked at the top of the mountain pass, so by all means get out and watch the show (assuming that the closure is for a missile launch, and the test occurs as planned). There are portable restroom facilities for urgent needs. Roadblocks occur regularly, and though the range cannot close the roads for more than an hour or so, any wait can prove frustrating if you are on a schedule. The road blocks also apply coming back, so stay tuned. Your best bet, if flying, is to arrive at El Paso and drive up I-10. Close the windows and vents as you near the stockyards along I-10, they are quite pungent.

I have made long and short stays at the Las Cruces Hilton. As the premier full service hotel, it offers the full range of dining, room service and other ammenities under one roof that a business traveler needs. The Hilton sets high on the base of the hills to the east of downtown. This translates into great sunset views or views of distant thunderstorms in an otherwise dry sky for west facing rooms.

The lobby is tiled in heavy terra cotta materials and conveys an “out west” atmosphere. I have been very pleased with the level of service provided by the young and friendly staff. Rooms vary slightly, are comfortable and generally well appointed. If your stay is longer than a night, request a portable refrigerator which will also come with a microwave. It comes at a nominal cost, if any. I have not dined in the Hilton restaurant, but room service food was adequate. One stay was tainted by the inability to adjust the room temperature due to seasonal changeover from cooling to heating in the building as a whole, but that proved the exception and not the rule.

Parking is free and plentiful, and the principal shopping mall for Las Cruces is just across the street along with various sit-down and fast food options (mostly national chains).

There truly is no place to get great steak like the greater El Paso area. The Great American is one of a family of restaurants in the area that earns the reputation for fine beef. It serves generous portions of meat, some seasoned with a family recipe dry dusting, that are tender and flavorful. I make a pilgrimage there each trip to enjoy the grilled whole green chilies along with the sirloins. Side dishes are served family-style. The slaw is sweet with chunks of pineapple.

The restaurant in Anthony is in a large modern building, standing alone in the desert, along I-10. Large wooden tables are needed to hold the mains and shared sides. Service is efficient and friendly. Although it has graduated to a local chain, the food still earns my vote as a unique and worthwhile option to national chains.

This restaurant, recognized in national magazines, has operated since 1939 in a historic adobe building which dates from the 1840s. The building has served in several capacities including a stint as a stop for the Butterfield Stagecoach Line. It now provides a unique dining experience, very heavy on the atmosphere. La Posta is very proud of its heritage and its facilities and offers an excellent tour on its website, www.laposta-de-mesilla.com. You enter the old west building through an old door and long hallway. The along the hallway, you may visit shops including a jewelry store and spice/food store. It finally opens into the restaurant proper with several dining room options ranging from the Lava Room to the Blacksmith Room. Oh yes, the food. There is good traditional and New Mexican fare including its signature Tostada Compuesta ("Toasted corn tortilla cups filled with frijoles and red chile con carne, topped with chopped lettuce, diced tomatoes and grated cheddar cheese") and the full range of enchiladas, flautas, rellenos and other favorites. The beer list features an excellent choice of Mexican beers at reasonable prices. I enjoy the food here, and have made multiple visits. The atmosphere is what really sets this restaurant apart. Don’t plan to eat there on Mondays, it’s closed. I have never had a problem getting seated, but reservations are accepted and may be advisable on busy nights.

For a one hour trip east on Highway 70, you can reward your family with a truly unique natural site: acres of huge, rolling, pure white gypsum dunes. This oddity was formed by the leaching of gypsum and subsequent evaporation of the rare rainfalls in the surrounding Tularosa Basin. Stop by the visitor center to get an understanding of the park before you drive into the dunes (and stamp your national park passport, if you have one). Once you do make the drive, keep going until you reach a place where you can get out and hike over the ridge of a dune. The feeling in unearthly when you are surrounded by the dunes, out of sight of the road. It is both isolating and expansive. Visit the official web site at www.nps.gov/whsa/ for more details and a children’s introduction.

This trip can be combined with a visit to the Lincoln National Forest and Ruidoso/Cloudcroft for an alpine mountain relief from the desert heat. It might be wise, however, to spend the night in the mountains to avoid a longer drive back to Las Cruces.

White Sands Missile Range occupies a substantial portion of southern New Mexico, and it is a major national resource for testing defense systems such as the PATRIOT and THAAD missiles. The range is very busy and is tightly controlled for security reasons, but you can still access the missile range museum and missile part. The base gate is located about 5 or 10 minutes south of Highway 70 and is clearly marked as you descend the pass.

The missile park allows you to walk up close to a variety of missiles, test drone aircraft and other vehicles associated with the range. This can be done quickly with a few photos along the way. The museum closes at 4:00 pm on weekdays and is open from 10:00 to 3:00 on weekends. Remember, as always in Las Cruces, to check the roadblocks on Highway 70 before planning your day.

This museum is probably best seen as a side trip on the way to or from the National Monument as it on the way and does not take long to visit See www.wsmr-history.org for photos and more information or call 505-678-8824.