Encounters with Nepalese Soldiers

A February 2005 trip to Pokhara by middy_me

This is about checking out the Annapurna Range from higher ground and coming across some soldiers who didn't look particularly friendly.

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I went for a bike ride in Pokhara and got the perfect reflection picture of the fishtail on the water from the dam. I then carried my bike for half an hour through the jungle up a steep slope hoping to get to a stupa for some more good views. I was told I could find a track up there. I got lost and was stuck on a very steep slope. I followed some local ladies herding a cow in the distance but lost them too. I kept walking/slipping and came past some rocks dripping with sweat when I was confronted by some ... wait for it . . . jungle soldiers. Feeling terrified, I turned around, and in my rush, tumbled a few metres down hill. The bike got pretty banged up after I literally threw it downwards. I didn't care - all I could picture was the jungle man shooting his blowing-dart-thing that I saw dangling around his neck at me. I bet they just laughed at my fall. I didn't look back to find out.

Quick Tips:

When I visited, there was no one around - it's pretty empty from a tourist standpoint because of the violence in the area. Head up to Nagarkot to view the Annapurnas during sunrise (I had to walk because no taxi driver was willing to go because they might encounter Maoists). I was told that the taxi takes you most of the way and waits for you. It took 2 hours to walk up from Lakeside.

A bike hire (80 Nepalese rupees) is great fun. A French volunteer from a local Tibetan community told me to stay on the trails because her work colleagues have seen heaps of soldiers in the area.

Family-run guesthouses are great in the back areas of Lakeside. They get to know you and chat with you.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walk and ride around town. Fly from Katmandu - it takes 20 minutes and provides a stunning viewing opportunity of Macchapuchure and the Himalayas. I spent 5 hours on the outskirts of Katmandu being stationary, just sitting and going nowhere. The tourist bus () ended up driving in convoy with OIL TANKERS. We passed three smoldering convoys (one lot of eight had been torched yesterday!). It was amazing and I was hanging my head out the window attempting to get a good look. There were armoured vehicles and ambulances leading big long lines of vehicles coming from the other direction. The Maoists had sabotaged bits of the road, so we always had to stop to let others past. Hindi music was played once we made it out of the danger zone, and we had a little party with singing, clapping, and mandarins. It was more out of relief than anything else but definitely a moment I'll treasure. I never felt in danger.

It was great having so many considerate locals look out for my welfare. They offered me food, looked out for my bag whenever lots of people got on, and asked others where my guesthouse was located for me.

GuesthouseBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Having had a tough day exploring, I ventured back into the familiar surrounds of my guesthouse and its vast array of potted plants. The greetings provided by the friendly staff are always a rejuvenating experience and a reminder of just how friendly the Nepalese really are.

After a brief chat about the day's events with the manager, I was escorted into the dining room and offered a free meal while watching the local news.

Warm water and local whisky were brought out by 'the boy', and I put on a brave face and sipped away, pretending to enjoy it. It did warm me up, though, which was pleasing.

Dinner was provided on a metal tray and had roti to dip into a number of side dishes. The spiciness of the food suited my rather uncultured Australian tastebuds.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by middy_me on March 11, 2005

Guesthouse
Pokhara, Nepal

About the Writer

middy_me
middy_me
Melbourne, Australia
  • "Try to see new and exciting places, expand my horizons, meet interesting people, live life"
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