Milan - Food, Accomodations & General Information

If you visit Milan expecting a stereotypical, picturesqe Italian village, you will probabley be disappointed. Milan is a big city with some big city problems. But it is well worth your time. With it's emphasis on style and fashion, Milan has an energy and feeling more like New York than anything else but with a bit of history and culture around every corner. When we first arrived, my sister and I were shocked and saddened to see graffiti on nearly every building. We also noticed that the people seem to have a more reserved attitude than other Italians. For such a large and cosmpolitan city, I was a little surprised at how few of the people we met in the shops and restaurants spoke English. But once you get past your expectations and start to take advantage of the cultural events, historical sights, and incredible shopping, I think you'll begin to see the attraction of Milan.

Quick Tips:

We chose to stay in the town's histroic center, close to the Duomo. It would be hard to miss the Duomo, because every street in Milan seems to lead here. but your trip will not be complete unless you visit this magnificent Catholic Church, the third largest in Europe. Our walk to the top by way of a hazordously narrow sprial staircase will be a lifelong memory. If you have time, please try to schedule a day trip (longer if possible) to the Lake Como area. This is a short, scenic 35-45 minute train ride north. We visited the town of Bellagio which is the most popular destination here. Please see my travel journal on Lake Como.

Best Way To Get Around:

Taxis are clean and moderately priced and are generally easy to locate. There is a 3000L surcharge per person after dusk. There is a tram system as well as a subway system through out the city and these are generally the least expensive ways to travel. If you are planning on traveling often by bus or tram make sure to buy several tickets whenever you are able. There are very few areas where you can purchase these tickets. When you enter the bus or tram you must punch validate your ticket. The police do not often check tickets, but it they do, and you are caught without a validated ticket you will be forced to pay an immediate fine.

We found this hotel by using the DK Travel Guide and we were really pleased when we saw this charming hotel and it's terraces decorated with white Christmas lights. Gran duca di York is a three star hotel and we paid $125 per night for one room for three singles and a small dog. For two the price is around $75-90. This was a clean, nice hotel with a large room, a good size bathroom and a fabulous location. There were toilettries, a television (Cable with CNNi) and a hairdryer provided. The price was a little more than we wanted to pay, but we chose this hotel because they allowed us to bring our small dog (see photo). Breakfast was included in the price and is served from 7:30 until 10am. It was the typical Italian breakfast of juice, coffee and bread/croissant. The food was not much to brag about but the service was entertaining to say the least. The waiter acted just like Roberto Bernini after winning the academy award. He should have been a comedian instead of a waiter. There is a small bar and the bartender was nice enough to bring wine to our room. We enjoyed the small terrace that our room provided, however there were some rooms complete with large terraces and seating overlooking the nearby church. On our next trip I plan to request one of these rooms.

On our last night in Milan, we decided to move to a different hotel. Our train to Zurich was scheduled early the next morning so with the help of a very friendly cab driver and the DK guide book we chose the Hotel Baviera, just a five minute walk from the Central Station.

The price was right for us, $80 for two single beds, a private bath, and breakfast buffet. We were pleased to find an extremely friendly staff, a spotless hotel and nice size room which overlooked the street. The room provided a television (cable with CNNi), hairdryer and toiletries.

For visiting tourist sights, this locations is not as ideal as the Gran Duca di York. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the change of scenery because it gave us the opportunity to see a different side of Milan. We walked south towards the Teatro Della Scala by way of the fashion distric along the Via Manzioni and Via Spiga.

After ten days in France and Italy I was getting used to, but a little tired of, croissants, bread, butter and coffee. What a surprise and delight it is was to discover the breakfast spread the next morning at the Baviera. Cold cereal, yogurt, cheese, fruit, pastries and meats where in abundance. We ate well and took a taxi to the train station for our three hour trip to Zurich.

This is a typical, small Milanese restaurant in the Breara area, just off the pedestrian area in the Rue Fiore-Chardi. It was excellent! We started with the best bruchetta I've ever had - made with the freshest tomatos garlic and high quality olive oil. The salade misto (mixed salad) was also very good; it was filled with arugula, raddiccio and shredded carrots and was served basalmic vinegar and olive oil. I was very pleased with the mushroom ravioli with truffle cream, however my sister's gnocci with spinach and four cheese sauce was not as good as the gnocci we had eaten the previous evening. A small carafe of house red wine was enough to warm both of us up. The atmosphere was warm and cozy and had I been there with someone other than my sister, I might say romantic. Open on Sunday night! This is a plus as many restaurants are closed on Sundays.

This trattoria is written up in many guides because it is one of the few remaining original trattoria in the city's historic center. It is located in the banking district and is definately a favorite among the local businessmen. The owner, who greeted everone upon entry, was good-natured and was obviously well acquainted with many of the diners.

This definitely does not feel like a tourist restaurant. The food was good and fresh and typical Milanese. The Risotto alla Milanese o al Salto 15,000L (Italian rice with a safffron cheese sauce) is an extremely popular primi. Just after being seated many Milanese order this along with their wine, prior to even looking at the menu.

My sister ordered the Ravoli di casalinghi di Carne (Meat Ravioli of the House-wife) 15,000L and raved about it. I was not feeling well so I ordered a basic spaghetti with pesto sauce 15,000L which was good and just what I expected. The house red wine was slightly sweet, slightly chilled and slightly bubbly which is typical of many restaurants here. I would recommended this at an inexpensive 4,000L for a 1/4 litre. Use a map to try find this place, because even though it's centrally located it's on a slightly offbeat street.

After a night of drinking and dancing and no dinner to speak of, we stumbled onto this pizzeria at 12:30 am. Even taking into account the vodkas we had consumed earlier, this is still the best pizza I have ever eaten. Try one with ham on it (sorry, I can't remember what it was called). The people were friendly and patient with the mess we made of the table. They seemed to have a good laugh at our friend who decided to lay her head on the table and take a nap. I guess this isn't done often in Italy! This pizzeria is just off the Plaza Cordusio, near the popular LaBanque nightclub and is open until 2am. What else could you ask for?

This is five museums and a history lesson about Milan all rolled into one. This castle was orginally began in the 1300's but was really completed by the Sforza family in the 17th century. It is large and magnificent. You will be awed by it's size. It's hard to imagine what life would have been like in its cold dark mazelike hallways and rooms. There is a picture gallery, a collection of musical intruments, an archaelogical museum, and a collection of applied arts, including furniture and costumes, jewelry and pottery. Perhaps the most famous and often vistited area is the Collection of Sculptures which includes the last (unfinished) sculpture by Michaelanelo.

For the best exchange rate in Milan visit the Cambival at Via Cantu, 3, 20123 Milano. This is on a smaller street in the historic center of town, close to Peck (gourmet) food store. They are friendly, charge no commision or fees and have the best rate in town. They are not open at night and if you need to change money at an off peak time and you must go to an exchange, the only ones open will be near the Duomo. The other option is using the Bancomat (ATM) machines. The exchange rate is always favorable, however ask your bank about fees before you leave for your trip.