Travelling alone in Malaysia

Ipoh and Penang are both known for their food; Ipoh for its hor fun (a type of flat noodles) and Penang for its laksa and char kuay teow. The folks in Ipoh claim that the soft texture in its hor fun is due to the high mineral content in Ipoh's water. It must be true. Otherwise, how do you explain for the exceptional taste in its vermicelli? The coffee is also wonderful. (It must be the high mineral content!) Actually, Ipoh has a type of coffee called White Coffee. It is absolutely delicious and tastes like a blend of coffee with chocolate. A taxi driver also recommended Ayam Towgay, which is chicken with bean sprouts, at Jalan Yau Tet Shin. Unfortunately, I haven't had time to try it.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

If you speak Cantonese and/or Malay, you can easily get around by bus in Ipoh. That does not mean the buses are frequent or that they take you right up to your destinations. The bus terminal is located in the old town. Ipoh has few attractions, and the attractions are spread out all over, so travelling from one place to another becomes very time-consuming. It costs RM5 by taxi for a short trip "within a town," RM10 for a trip across towns, and RM15 or more for farther trips.

It is, however, easier to move around by public transportation in Penang. The cheapest fare is 80 sen, but bus drivers do not give out small change if you pay more than the required fare. There is a free shuttle bus from KOMTAR that takes you to the ferry terminal, Chinatown, the museum, etc. Local buses operate from the terminal at KOMTAR. Just watch out for the overzealous taxi drivers and trishaw riders!

In Ipoh, I stayed at the Majestic Railway Station Hotel. It's just next to the train station and also a short walk from the bus terminal in Old Ipoh where all coaches depart and arrive, so it's really convenient if you have to arrive there in the wee hours of the morning like I did. It's undergoing renovation, so the price was really good--RM63 per room. Breakfast is included. It's a good value for the money, but I wished there was a remote for the TV.

In Penang, I stayed at the White House Hotel. It's not really a hotel but a guesthouse. It's rather old, maybe from the '60s. The rooms have tiled walls and are sparsely furnished, with furniture that looks older than discarded stuff. Hot/cold water and air-conditioning are activated from the lobby. So, although there is an air-conditioning unit in your room, you can't use it unless you inform the operator and pay for it! The bath is en-suite, but the toilet is shared. All rooms come with fans. Most rooms are doubles, and it's about RM40 per room with air-conditioning. So four people can share a room, and each pays only RM10! It costs less if you choose not to have air-conditioning!

The plus point about this guesthouse is that it is squeaky clean and has a fantastic location, and the staff is lovely. Some of the guests are regulars. There were both Asians and Westerners when I was there. The Westerners were there to escape the bitter cold in their countries and had been staying in the guesthouse for some time.

Although I made no prior booking for both destinations, I actually have friends who could not find accommodation in Penang.

The shopping malls in the "new town" of Ipoh are quite old and drab. Few people patronise these malls during the night, as they are not hip places. In fact, there is no nightlife, and the whole town of Ipoh seems to die after 5:30pm. That includes Ipoh Central, too!

Cross over to Jusco (also known as the Kinta City Shopping Centre), which is slightly out of Ipoh, and the opposite is true. It is vibrant, hip, and happening. The newer shopping malls such as Jusco and Ipoh Parade are also located out of Ipoh, neither in old or new town.

Specialty shops selling traditional delicacies are found in new and old town, and they are only open up to about 5:30pm.

Penang has some fabulous shopping malls, the most centrally located one being Pragin Mall, which is next to KOMTAR. It is huge and offers everything under one roof. Others that I visited include the more upmarket Gurney Plaza, which is next to the famous Gurney Drive and the Bukit Jambut Shopping Centre, which is about an hour's journey by bus from KOMTAR.

Winner of the UNESCO Conservation Award, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion is actually a carefully restored mansion of a wealthy man in the 19th century who built his riches from scratch. Behind the beautiful facade and architecture lies a both poignant and intriguing tale of a man and his many wives and children who rose from rags to riches and then fell to rags again. Chauvinism, mistrust, and betrayal are the hallmarks of the tale. A family fell apart. There is a Chinese proverb that says, "The wealth of a family does not pass through three generations". Credit must be given to the guide, as she presents the story, the fascinating culture behind the architecture, and every detail of the restoration. Her ability to transport the audience to another era certainly makes her one of the best history teachers around.

Costing RM10, the tour takes slightly more than 1 hour, and each visitor is presented with a beautiful bookmark of the place. More details can be found at www.cheongfatttzemansion.com

The Darul Ridzuan Museum is located in the old town of Ipoh. It is within walking distance from the railway station. Walking from the railway station, you will pass by some old buildings, like the stately St. Michael's Institution and High Court. On the way, visit the Perak Tourist Information Centre and pick up some great brochures from the friendly staff there.

Ipoh was once a land of millionaires. The wealth of the city was made from tin mining, and the Darul Ridzuan Museum showcases the history and development of Ipoh and the mining and forestry industries of Perak. The building is rather old and there is nothing fanciful inside, but I find it rather charming because it is such a welcome change from the usual high-tech ones I see in modern cities. Here there are no buttons to press and no "sights and sounds" gallery. In fact, the building itself is a historical architecture, and you get to see the artifacts as they were displayed in the ‘60s and ‘70s.

Entrance is free and the museum opens at 9:30am.

Two years ago, I stayed at the French Hotel in Ipoh. The place is quite unbearable. For RM$50, you get a fairly large room with a bar fridge. It has central air-conditioning, but it seems to be blowing only in one tiny spot on the bed. The thermostat in the room just didn't help. When the pillow was lifted up, I could smell a terrible smell coming from it. The room was also dimly lit. There is a phone, but no connection. There's also a TV in the room, but the channels are not tuned. In fact, I managed to help the hotel tune up a channel.

The next thing to look out for is when buying tickets in Ipoh for interstate coaches; avoid touts or agents who hang around the shops that actually sell the tickets. These touts or agents are self-appointed, and they jack up the price of the tickets by a few ringgit.

Some guidebooks and brochures mention the 55th (or whatever) floor of KOMTAR in Penang as offering a panoramic view of the city. Well, when I was there, I asked the receptionist at the building which lift I should use and was immediately whisked to a lift which led to a restaurant which has seen better days. The 'view' cost RM$5 and came with either a bottle of mineral water or a cup of coffee. The glass panes are also rather dirty, so don't waste your time there.

Lastly, a word about the famed Kellie's Castle in Ipoh. There is really nothing spectacular about it. It is set in a rural and secluded area. Although accessible by public transport, it takes more than one hour to get there from Ipoh central. If you must visit this place, just remember to leave before 5:30pm, because the last bus comes around that time, and taxis don't go there (except when taking passengers there).