Salisbury's Soaring Spires

See the majestic cathedral, with its 404-foot spire, the highest in England; the spectacular remains of Old Sarum, site of the first Salisbury settlement and first cathedral; and the Wardrobe military museum, Mompesson House, and Medieval Hall, all three situated around the lawns of Cathedral Close. Visit Wardour Castle, closeby at Tisbury, and Wilton House, a couple of miles down the road, along with its synonymous carpet factory, reknowned throughout the world.

Finally, relax and enjoy a coffee at one of the many varied cafes and brasseries or an unhurried meal at a restaurant of your choice around the busy marketplace as you just watch the city pass by...

Quick Tips:

Salisbury has a virtually unrivalled music and club scene, with most of the local pubs featuring live music on a regular basis, ranging from blues and rock to country and folk.

The city publishes a regular "what's on" guide that covers music, theatre, pubs, clubs, museums, art galleries, and so on. The weekly newspapers will also carry listings for all the local events. You most definitely won't be stuck for something to do!

Best Way To Get Around:

Surprisingly, Salisbury is just a 90-minute ride by coach or car from Heathrow and around 2 hours from Gatwick. There are plenty of carparks, although these are expensive, and much of the on-street parking is reserved for residents.

A large "park-and-ride" can be found just north of the city, close to Old Sarum on the A345. Leave your car here and take the shuttle bus into town. The return fare is just £1.50, regardless of how many persons are in your car, and this includes all-day parking. Bear in mind that this service does not run on Sundays.

Salisbury is well-pedestrianised, making it easy to see the major sights on foot, most of which are relatively close to each other.

It has a main-line railway station that links to London. Outside the station, you'll find a large taxi stand, where most cabs will charge around £1.70 per mile, plus the standing meter charge.

Finally, Salisbury is pretty flat, making cycling a firm favourite. There are many cycleways and trails within the city, making exploring simple. Bikes can be hired from one of several outfitters in the city.

Salisbury Cathedral, dedicated to St. Mary, is one of the foremost of Britain’s monuments, situated as it is inside a walled close that it shares with several other stunning buildings. It is regarded as the finest medieval cathedral in the country and was built in the early 13th century after being originally founded at the site of Old Sarum in 1075 (please see separate entry).

Construction began in 1220 and continued uninterrupted for over 50 years, during which the Bishop took his seat in 1227. The cathedral is unique among English cathedrals for the unity of architecture which is entirely of the Early English period, apart from the tower and spire, which were added between 1330 and 1380. The spire itself, at 404 feet (123m), is easily the tallest in the U.K., with 332 steps leading up to the base, which offers unrivalled panoramic views of the city and surrounding areas.

The cloisters and chapter house were also built in the 13th century, and the massive weight of the spire necessitated the insertion in 1450 of supporting arches at all points of the structure where it met the vaulted ceilings. Several side chapels and the free-standing bell tower were demolished in the late 18th century by James Wyatt--alterations that were supposed to improve the look of the cathedral. These actions, however, required that major renovation works were to be affected in the 1860s by Sir Gilbert Scott to restore the dignity of the building.

Much of Scott’s work was undone, though, in the 1950s and 1960s, resulting in a somewhat "bleak" feel to the cathedral’s interior that is evident today.

There are many attractions at the cathedral, including Europe’s oldest working clock, dating from 1386; an original Magna Carta document, one of just four known to be in existence; and the magnificent Purbeck marble pillars, which are becoming warped due to the tremendous weight of the spire. There is also a 13th-century stone frieze depicting stories from the Old Testament. Finally, to service the needs of the swarms of visitors, you will find a restaurant and a tasteful gift shop.

Across the lawns of Cathedral Close are several other notable buildings. The cathedral itself plays host throughout the year to many spectacular concerts and opens its doors to well in excess of half a million visitors.

Throughout most of the nineties, a mammoth restoration project was undertaken to repair and strengthen the spire, which was cloaked beneath acres of plastic sheeting and bedecked with miles of scaffolding. I recall travelling to Salisbury one day and seeing that the uppermost part of the spire was uncovered for the first time in maybe three years, and as I drew closer, I realised that a couple of specific, huge stone blocks had been removed, making it possible to see right through the centre of the spire. How long until this is ever likely to happen again, I wonder?

Old Sarum is located north of the city. It boasts a chequered past, beginning circa 3,000 BC, when it was merely a chalk hilltop used for seasonal gatherings and regarded with reverence by the local Neolithic peoples. Evidence suggests that around 1,500 BC it had been abandoned, although the hill was surrounded by burial mounds of local chieftains.

During the Iron Age, circa 400BC, the local Celtic people, renowned for their intertribal rivalry, repopulated the site and created a powerful hill fort to protect the surrounding farmland. A new gatehouse was constructed, which, although it would always be the weakest point of the fortifications, enabled them to express their identity in such ways as impaling the heads of captured rival tribesmen to ward off future attacks.

Massive earthworks were built during this period, consisting of an outer ditch 100m in diameter and 20 feet deep and the remodelling of the inner defences, presenting a formidable obstacle to any would-be invader. During this time the fort was known as Dun Sorvia.

When the Romans arrived, Sorvodunum, as they called it, expanded south to the River Avon, and the development of their military post saw a town flourish alongside the fortress. There was also an important road junction here that the Romans realised made this site of great strategic wealth.

After the Romans departed, it became a Saxon royal estate. By 552 AD, Britain was no longer part of the Roman Empire, and the British were heavily defeated by the Saxons at Old Sarum, which they renamed Searobyrg. In 1003, a marauding Viking army sacked nearby Wilton and the locals sought refuge at Old Sarum. Wilton’s market and Royal Mint were also moved here for safety.

By the time of William the Conqueror, who decided to reconstruct much of the fortifications in stone, Old Sarum already had had a turbulent history.

William recognised the site for what it was – the great scale of the outer defences made it an ideal arena in which to muster his troops, and in August 1086, he summoned all of England’s most powerful landowners to Old Sarum to pledge their allegiance to him. This was a crucial moment – the Domeday Book was being compiled, a full scale Viking invasion had been narrowly averted, and William’s eldest son was in armed rebellion against him. It was never more important for the Norman King of England to be seen in all his majesty.

But all things change; the cathedral that had been built on the site, just outside the main walls, was struck by lightning very shortly after it’s completion in the late 12th century (please see separate entry). Although a new cathedral was quickly built to replace it, the position of the Old Sarum site meant that a constant water supply was difficult to maintain for the burgeoning population, and a decision was taken to build a new cathedral in the nearby town of Salisbury, close to the river. Within months, the site was deserted and left to the elements.

Salisbury’s "first" great cathedral was situated at Old Sarum, close to the ancient hilltop fortress.

After the Norman Conquest in 1066, William and Lefranc, the Archbishop of Canterbury, wanted to reorganise the English church. In 1075, the Church Council authorised the relocation of the Bishopric of Sherborne to the outer bailey of the king’s castle at Old Sarum. Bishop Osmond, the king’s nephew, supervised the building of the cathedral which was initially rather small when compared to other examples within England.

Tragedy struck, though, when in 1092, just five days after its consecration, the cathedral was hit by lightening, caught fire, and was extensively damaged.

The rebuilding was taken over by Roger of Caen in 1110, who set about his mammoth task with the same vigour that he’d applied to the construction of a new courtyard palace for the King within the castle walls. Roger almost doubled the cathedral in size, although he kept the surviving nave of Osmond’s creation, but rebuilt the east-end on a vastly grander scale. He also rebuilt the Bishop’s Palace beyond the site of the cathedral cloisters. Roger enlarged the transepts, as well, to provide a suitable setting for the elaborate ceremonies that were an essential part of church liturgy at this time. His work was deemed as completed in 1135.

In the mid-12th century, the cathedral continued to be enlarged by Bishop Jocelyn Bohun, and it acquired its greatest extent with the addition of an impressive west front along with large corner towers.

All work was deemed completed by around 1160-1170, and Salisbury’s first grand cathedral must have been a spectacular sight for the people who lived in and around King William’s castle and fortress.

Fortunes changed again in 1235, when a new site was decided upon within the Roman city of Salisbury, three miles or so to the south. The Old Sarum cathedral was left to fend for itself, as attention was diverted to the creation of a new, even grander example. The castle and fortress were abandoned, too, as the soldiers and common folk moved down the hill into the new town.

Salisbury’s "first" cathedral slipped from people’s minds over the centuries, and it wasn’t until minor excavations began at the Old Sarum site in the early 1900s that people realised the scale of the ruins that had lain there, buried and forgotten for almost 700 years.

Very little remains now, other than low walls and a few column bases of what was, without doubt, a hugely impressive structure.

Salisbury’s Cathedral Close plays host to a stunning array of beautiful museums, all situated in the tranquil and perfect setting close to the soaring cathedral itself. No other place in Britain has so many wonderful old buildings in such a small area.

The first attraction on the list is The Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum at number 65 The Close. This is one of the most popular museums in southern England, and its major features include an award-winning gallery dedicated to Stonehenge, which is to be found just 9 miles up the road. Also on show are the Monkton Deverill Gold Torc; many paintings, including some wonderful watercolours by Turner; the famous Warminster Jewel; and many displays of porcelain, pottery and Wedgwood. The museum also features many important ancient and historic collections unrivalled elsewhere in Britain. The museum is open to the public Monday to Saturday 10am until 5pm.

Second on the list is The Wardrobe Military Museum, more often than not referred to simply as The Wardrobe at number 58. This is situated right next to the cathedral, and it houses the museum of the Royal Gloucestershire, Berkshire, and Wiltshire Regiment. This historic building dates to the mid-13th century and became known as The Wardrobe because it was regularly used by the Salisbury bishops as a clothing store in the 14th century.

Many fascinating exhibits are on show, including displays about the history, training, and lifestyle of all three regiments prior to their much latter amalgamation. The museum also features large landscaped gardens that lead down to the River Avon and a critically acclaimed restaurant in the old 16th-century coach house. The museum is open from 10am until 5pm, although in February, March, November, and December, it closes on Mondays but is open on Sundays.

Thirdly, we have Mompesson House that is over 300 years old and a fine example of Queen Anne architecture. Attractions include the elegant interior, oak staircases, period features, and a collection of paintings. Also to see are the walled gardens and a lot of antique furniture. Mompesson House was featured in the award-winning Sense and Sensibility film adaptation of Jane Austen’s famous book. The house is open from 11am until 5pm Saturday to Wednesday from April to October.

Lastly, there is The Medieval Hall, a 13th-century banqueting hall that would have been used on a regular basis by the clergy who occupied the cathedral. It has a small museum area with much information relating to the construction and history of the adjacent cathedral and also features a 30-minute film show about Salisbury through the ages. The hall is open from 11am until 6pm every day April to September.

These four building comprise one of the most historic cathedral gardens in the country. Indeed, many say that the cathedral’s setting is unrivalled anywhere in Britain.

Salisbury is certainly a cosmopolitan, if relatively small, city that offers a huge variety of pubs and bars, some of them occupying very old buildings featuring low ceilings and great atmospheres.

Most of them are naturally enough situated around the city centre, and some warrant particular mention for their history as much as for their alcoholic offerings. I myself am a real ale fan, lager and warm cask beer do zilch for me, so here are a few that merit a mention.

The Old Ale House on Crane Street is a great pub: lively, full of interesting folk, and with the benefits of real ale on tap. It has a good-size car park and features live music every Thursday and a "bring your instrument and jump on the stage" blues jam evening the first Monday of the month.

The Ox Row Inn is to be found on the Market Square and features 16th-century carvings around the large fireplace. It still has many original beams that bear evidence of cattle being tied to them on market days. There’s real ale and a real atmosphere.

The Wig and Quill on New Street is a traditional place with lots of old pub games, real ale, and a beautiful beer garden that stretches down to Cathedral Close. A particular feature is it’s two beer cellars, one of which is visible from the bar via a glass floor.

The Pheasant Inn is the second oldest pub in the city and dates from 1435. It occupies what was once the original shoemaker’s hall. There are real ales once again and great food served at lunchtime and evening.

The Wyndham Arms on Estcourt Road is famous as the establishment where the Hop Back Brewery first appeared in 1987. It was inaugurated by John Gilbert, who started a microbrewery and produced the first brew known as GFB (Gilbert’s First Brew), which can be found in most Hop Back houses today.

The Royal George on Bedwin Street has a large beer garden, essential in the summer, and keeps his beer in fine order, as noted in the UK’s Good Beer Guide. It offers accommodation, as do many of the hostelries listed here.

Finally, there is the Railway Tavern on South Western Road, a pub converted from two houses in the early 1800s. It’s very lively. It has pub games, kids are welcome, and there is great food. When Salisbury’s own brewery, Gibbs Mew, was established, their shire horses that were used to pull the brewery drays were stabled here.

Virtually all the public houses in Salisbury offer a great welcome, and these are but a tiny proportion of those available. But I’ve had at least a couple of pints in these half dozen or so detailed here and can vouch for their food, beer, service, and atmosphere. Happy days… (or should that read "daze?).

Salisbury has a wealth of good shopping, and although this tends not to be my reason for visiting the city, the shops and the buildings they occupy will, I hope, be of interest to some readers.

There are stores for saddles and tack, artist supplies, numerous book shops, the ubiquitous gift shops, porcelain and glass, watch-makers, jewellers, high-class food and delicatessens, guns, haute couture and coiffure, and a hundred pavement cafes to sit at and browse over your purchases.

Many of these businesses are situated in very old premises, some of which still retain the former "headboards" above the windows to indicate their trade in days long gone. Many occupy half-timbered buildings that have scarcely changed for hundreds of years and must certainly have a tale to tell.

Zabelle, if you haven’t shopped in Salisbury, make it top of your list for your next UK trip!

Salisbury caters well to its many visitors, and just as it has a wide variety of pubs and bars, so too can it offer a similar range of eating establishments.

As more and more of the city becomes pedestrianised, you have the additional option of choosing a pavement café to sit and make your coffee last as long as possible while you watch the world go by. These are some of the more reputable eateries in the city...

First are the cafés, and we have Michael Snells in St Thomas' Square, one of the city's oldest established tea rooms, famed for its homemade cakes and pastries. Having sampled one of their delights, I can vouch not only for the taste, but also the calorific value.

Next there is Le Cafe Parisien in the Market Square, French, surprisingly, and rather good, too. It has great variety but is a little pricey. David Brown's Food Hall on Catherine Street is just that, a huge variety of food , whether you want a snack or a banquet.

Finally, there is Stoners on Blue Boar Row. I can heartily recommend this place, as they serve superb snacks and light meals at reasonable prices.

Restaurants come next, and you'll be spoiled for choice... Afon Bar & Brasserie is situated right on the river and is relaxing and friendly. It has a great menu, from light bites to haute cuisine, plus there are barbecues in summer. It’s the best place in town for my money.

The Cafe Med on Castle Street serves an eclectic mix of modern and traditional food from around the world, including fabulous seafood, all prepared by their award winning chef.

Other notable mentions include The Chough on Blue Boar Row; Robins Restaurant and The Exit Lounge, both on Catherine Street; and The Haunch of Venison on Minster Street.

Finally, there are greasy spoons. Let’s face it, if all you want is a cholesterol-inducing sandwich whilst "on the hoof" then look no farther than the aptly named Bacon Sandwich on South Western Road, a good old selection of "anything you want between two bits of bread."

It's impossible to stay hungry for long in Salisbury, there are simply too many establishments applying their "tractor beams," one of which will always haul you in.

As a last thought, the city also has a good smattering of Thai, Indian, Mexican, Chinese, and other ethnic restaurants, most of which are fin,e but space precludes inclusion here. Bon apetit!

PS - Having been to Salisbury again today, I went into Mr T's Cafe on the Market Place. Save your money - the "food" is awful, service is non-existent, and the prices for what you get are expensive. There's a McDonald’s up the road; I wish I'd gone there instead.