Olomouc: Historic Capital of Forgotten Moravia

Olomouc is a lively, attractive city of over 100,000 people on the banks of the Morava river, halfway between Prague and Krakow. Thousand year-old Olomouc was the capital of the historic land Moravia until it was occupied and severely damaged by invading Swedish troops in the 1640s. Most of the significant buildings in Olomouc needed repair and reconstruction after the end of the Thirty Years War.

The second university in the Czech lands was established in Olomouc in 1566 and continues its proud tradition of educating educators, linguists, doctors, lawyers, philosophers, theologians, and environmental scientists to this day.
Olomouc is included on the UNESCO heritage list, thanks to the Column of the Most Holy Trinity on the main square. Also famous are the six baroque fountains and the recently added seventh Arion fountain. Significant buildings include the 13th-century town hall, 12th-century Wenceslas cathedral, 11th-century Hradisko monastery, and a host of other constructions that make Olomouc the second-largest urban preservation zone in the country (after Prague).
Organised mass tourism has largely passed Olomouc by, although how long this will continue to be the case is anybody's guess.

Quick Tips:

The best thing to do upon arrival in Olomouc is to drop your bags and gather as much information about the city as you can from your hostel or hotel and the Tourist Information office. Then have a look at the town model to get your bearings before wandering of to explore, sightsee, or people-watch from an outdoor cafe.

"Info" magazine is a good source of entertainment listings but is in Czech only. The 'Olomouc Card' and transport passes don't seem to be a very good value. Individual entry prices are low.

The next priority after getting oriented is to rearrange your itinerary so that you can have more time in this undiscovered gem of a city.
If you're time is limited and you'd like to be shown around by somebody who lives there, Olomouc Tours offer several short walking and cycling tours that cover the main sights for very reasonable rates.

Best Way To Get Around:

If you are staying in the centre of Olomouc, most of the historic sights are within walking distance. The train and bus stations are 12 to 17 minutes to the east of the centre on trams 4,5,6 or 7. You'll need to buy an 8kc ticket (the price in Feb '05--there was talk of a price rise at some time in the not-too-distant future) and validate it when you enter the tram. For short trips to Podebrady for swimming or to the cathedral and Zoo at Svaty Kopecek, local buses are the best option. You can pre-buy your ticket or get one from the driver for a few crowns extra. For longer trips out of town to one of the castles or to the caves, the website www.vlak-bus.cz is the best place to find out about bus and train connections and prices. For cyclists, Olomouc is very well-served by marked cycling trails, including the long-distance Moravian and Amber trails.

Cafe 87 is a spacious, bright, modern cafe in the same building as the Art Museum. The furniture is new and comfortable--mostly wicker chairs and wooden tables, but if you're lucky, you may be quick enough for a spot on one of the sofas.

The staff are mostly young, multilingual university students, and the prompt service is some of the best that you will find in the Czech Republic or many other countries, for that matter. The music, provided by CDs, is better-quality and less repetitive than the local radio favoured by many cafes.

The menu is healthy--lots of vegetarian and low-fat options, including quiches, pasta salads,and sandwiches made up to your wishes. Sweet-tooths need not fear, however; there is also a wide range of cakes and desserts, including an amazing chocolate pie. I would not recommend it for anyone who does not particularly like chocolate; it's kind of rich, so be sure to order a drink to accompany or share with a friend. There is also a white version, but the purists will recognize that white chocolate is not really chocolate at all.

The 'Segafredo' coffee is prepared well, as are the many fruit smoothies, milkshakes and other drinks.

Downstairs at the café is non-smoking, and upstairs is occasionally used as a venue for small concerts. The large plate-glass windows downstairs and their view of Our Lady Mary of the Snows cathedral make it easy to settle back and watch Moravian life go by as you enjoy your coffee or even, perhaps, catch up on your journal.

Kavárna Opera is Olomouc’s most polished café. It occupies a prestigious location on the main square, and the Town Hall, Arion Fountain, and UNESCO World Heritage-listed Holy Trinity Column are all visible from its windows.

Its stylish interior has enough space for at least 200 patrons. There are leather-upholstered booths, regular chairs and tables, and even a play corner for children at the rear. Half of the Kavárna is reserved for nonsmokers. The coffee and cakes are a little more expensive than most places in town, but if you like to see and be seen while you sip your café latte, it will be worth the extra few crowns (an espresso with milk is 30Kc). In a land of surly, distracted waiters, the service at Kavárna Opera stands out for being exceptionally attentive and professional. I, for one, quite like and respect a little surliness from anyone doing a menial job for 50Kč an hour, but I realize that it may not be everybody’s cup of tea and that the opera’s customer service may be exactly what many of its patrons go there for.

The coffee is also good; I’d go so far as to say some of the best in town. The range of cakes is, however, a little disappointing. They seem to have one recipe that’s just slightly altered to give the illusion of having a comprehensive selection. That is, the raspberry cake is the same as the banana cake, except the raspberries have replaced the bananas and a little pink food dye has been added. There’s certainly nothing as original as the chocolate pie at Café 87 or the coconut flakes in yoghurt sauce at the teahouse.

The building itself has an interesting history. In 1478 and 1479, rivals for influence in the area, Hungarian King Mathias Korvin and Bohemian King Vladislav Jagellon, held negotiations here that resulted in the Olomouc Agreement, under which, Moravia would temporarily disassociate with from Bohemia and connect with the lands of the Hungarian crown. In 1620, the Winter King, Friedrich Falcký, stayed in the building.

In 1834, the well-known Caffe Ruprecht was established at no. 21. It closed in 1943 and reopened after the war under the name of Kavárna Opera (named for the Moravian Theatre and Philharmonic Orchestra next door at Horní Nam. 23), under which it traded until closing in 1994. Kavárna Mahler at Horní Náměstí 11 took up the mantle of being Olomouc’s most celebrated main square café, but since the reopening of Kavárna Opera in 2004, opinions have been divided as to which is the more elegant backdrop for one’s hippest new outfit. Many of opera’s patrons are reasonably well dressed, but the procession of young mothers towards the toddlers play area saves the café from seeming too pretentious.

It’s not a bad choice for anyone spending a couple of days in Olomouc and makes a nice change for anyone who lives there.

U Anděla/At the Angel’s is an excellent restaurant on one of the prettiest streets in the historic centre of Olomouc.

A lot of effort has gone into decorating the dining rooms, of which there are three. There’s an amazing collection of historic memorabilia: old maps, signs and plaques, antique telephones, scales and sewing machines, even a couple of brass musical instruments, and a wooden dressmaker’s dummy, which combine to create a very pleasant space to dine. The many well-cared-for potted plants especially help to give an atmosphere of freshness that’s very reassuring if you’re ordering lamb that has come from the other side of the world or salmon that has travelled thousands of kilometres to reach your plate. I sat in the sunroom at the rear of the restaurant, which is filled with light from the transparent ceiling and overlooks the park from its east-facing windows.

The service was very attentive, but that may have had something to do with the facts that there were very few other diners at the time and that the waitresses were trainees apparently yet to lose their enthusiasm for the job. The older waitress hovering around in the background wore the usual air of grumpiness like a veil.

At first glance, the meals might seem quite expensive, but closer inspection of the menu reveals value for money. The menu includes many things that are not readily available elsewhere in town, such as New Zealand roast lamb or salmon caviar, and it’s these things that attract the higher prices. The New Zealand lamb is 198Kc, salmon pasta with broccoli and cheese is 116Kc, and 200grams of beef steak is 200Kc and 300grams goes for 300Kc. Some of the other expensive dishes are listed as being suitable for two people. There are also a lot of standard dishes on the menu for prices comparable to other restaurants in the city (that is, 85-130kc for a main course and 20-25 for a side dish). I was there today in time to catch the lunch specials and had the chicken mix with fried onions, mushroom sauce, and rice for 65Kc. Other dishes on the lunch menu were fried cheese with boiled potatoes, Mexican chicken with rice, and a simple chicken fillet with potatoes. All the lunch specials were between 65 and 70Kc and came with a starter of the soup of the day.

They offer an excellent value, especially when you consider that small "value" meals at a certain international fast-food chain are 85Kc.

Open daily 11am to 10pm,
Friday and Saturday until 11pm

If you’re only going to eat out once while you’re in Olomouc, it should be at the Hanácká Hospoda.

Why? Well I’m glad you asked. The hospoda is the best-value restaurant in the centre of the city; the portions are large, and most of them are less than 100Kc. It’s also your best chance to try the traditional food of the region.

The menu is available in the local dialect Hanáčtina (with the explanations in standard Czech) and also in English and in German. It’s worth asking for a copy in your preferred language as soon as you sit down, as the restaurant is very popular and the waitstaff may not be able to visit your table as often as you might be used to in other places. If you’re wondering why it’s taking so long to have your order taken, close the menu and try to look decisive. Please don’t expect the waitstaff to speak English. Some of them do, and those that don’t will be happy for you just to point to what you want. I once overheard a group of people at the Hospoda complain indignantly ‘she doesn’t speak a word of English’. They probably would have been happier just staying in Prague.

What to order? Possibly the best-value dinner is the ‘chicken like duck’; half a chicken cooked in a dark beer sauce on a bed of pickled cabbage with two different kinds of dumplings, for 79Kč/2.5 euros/$3U.S. If you prefer your duck to be duck, 900grams of roasted half-duck is 169Kč with the same side-dishes. The pick of the pork dishes is the three pieces of sirloin with three different flavours, (basil, curry, and chilli) for 110Kč/3.5 euros, and my favourite chicken dish is the Franta Šostal cutlet with a sauce of ketchup, wine garlic, basil and cream. A close second would be the chicken schnitzel in a batter of cornflakes. Tastes better than it sounds. There are only eight dishes in the vegetarian section, and they mostly revolve around cheese.

The menu is also quite entertaining. Pickled sausage is usually ‘Utopenec’ on menus, which translates literally as "drowned man". At the hospoda the dish is called ‘Břetik the nonswimmer’ and comes with the offer that if your name is Břetik (Břetislav) and you prove that you cannot swim, you’ll be treated to three pieces for free. The potato pancake filled with the pungent local cheese, tvarůžky, comes with two breath mints included, and the request to write down, rather than voice, any order for more. The ‘Gossiping aunt’s potato pancakes’ are baked pancakes with spinach, pork and cheese. Steak for real Haná men (89Kč) is pork with three kinds of pepper and Steak for real Haná women (also 89Kč) is chicken breast with ham, ketchup, garlic, cream and leeks.

The desserts include the widely available medovnik/honeycake (39Kc) and red hot love, which is vanilla ice cream with a hot sauce made from raspberries.

The Arion fountain is the crowning jewel of Olomouc’s impressive collection of public sculpture. Completed in 2002, it has quickly become a favourite of locals and visitors alike.

Olomouc has, for centuries, been graced by a series of six baroque fountains, representing legends from classical Greek and Roman mythology. The fountains were constructed as part of the overall rebuilding of the city following the disastrous occupation by the Swedish army in the Thirty Years’ War, which ended in 1648. The six stone fountains, which were constructed between 1683 and 1735, were always intended to be a series of seven, with the most prestigious location reserved for the final fountain, at the corner of the central square where it is joined by the main road from Prague and Vienna.

Unfortunately, the construction of the seventh fountain was abandoned due to the more urgent priority of fortifying Olomouc in the face of new military tensions between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Prussia. The final fountain was to represent the legend of Arion, the poet, musician, and symbol of rectified injustices. Olomouc was capital of Moravia until the regional government fled during the Swedish occupation, and Arion was probably chosen because the city authorities saw the loss of capital-city status as a humiliating injustice that needed to be rectified.

The legend tells of a Greek poet who had become rich in Italy and Sicily due to his musical and poetic abilities. As he returned home by sea, jealous and greedy sailors forced him overboard and stole his treasure. The drowning Arion was rescued and carried to shore by a dolphin that had been attracted by the song he sang before jumping into the sea. When he eventually returned home to Corinth, the treacherous sailors were put to trial and Arion’s riches were restored.

Plans were drawn up in 1751, but the modern version was designed in the mid 1990s, when it finally became possible to go ahead with the project. A low stone wall contains the water that laps at the feet of huge brass turtles. Two of the turtles support sculptures of children playing musical instruments, while another supports a tall column, richly decorated with fish and dolphins, as well as maps, drawings, and medals from the thousand years of Olomouc’s recorded history. The main sculpture is a depiction of Arion himself, clinging to his dolphin rescuer.

Perhaps the most pleasant feature of the Arion fountain is that it has been designed to be interactive. The water is low enough to be seen by normal passers-by (you have to climb several steps to see the water in the older baroque fountains), and there are steps down on the inside, encouraging children to take a refreshing dip on a hot day. Another large turtle stands on dry ground nearby, intended as a climbing toy.

The new legend is that if you rub the dolphin on the head of this turtle, you will return to Olomouc some day.

The Holy Trinity Column is a richly decorated stone column that dominates the upper end of Olomouc’s striking central square and dwarfs the nearby four-storey buildings.

Being one of the last major European columns to be built as the baroque period drew to a close, the trinity column in Olomouc is widely considered to be the most impressive column in the country, if not the whole of central Europe. Certainly that was the intention of the main initiator of the project, master sculptor and stonemason Vaclav Render, who announced in 1715 the construction of a monument that with "its height and ornamentation would not have a peer in terms of excellence throughout the (Austro-Hungarian) Empire, the royal hereditary lands, and all of Germany." Almost three centuries later, the UNESCO general assembly saw fit to agree, and added the column to their list of protected world heritage in 2000, (after the completion of a 3-year restoration project).

The massive base of the column has a diameter of 17m, and is large enough to accommodate a small chapel, which is accessible to the public in the company of a registered guide. The column gracefully narrows as it approaches its eventual height of 35m. The intricate sculptures of the lower column depict 30 saints and apostles, and the three virtues (of Faith, Hope and Charity), while the narrow upper obelisk supports representations of the Holy Trinity (the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost) and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.

The Holy Trinity sculpture bursts from the very top of the column and shimmers in its complete covering of gold leaf. The father is represented by a God with a long flowing beard resting on a globe and waving benevolently. Leaning on the other side of the globe is Jesus the son, apparently bearing with ease the weight of the huge cross in the crook of his arm. The Holy Spirit is represented by a dove flying from the centre of the starburst above the heads of the father and son.

The statue of the Virgin Mary being carried heavenwards by angels is also entirely gilded, while the virtues, apostles and saints on the lower column all have a natural stone finish. The most graceful of the 18 statues are above the entrance to the chapel; Sts Cyril and Methodius, the patron saints of Moravia.

The Holy Trinity Column is one of Olomouc’s most recognizable landmarks, and with its sheer size and main square location, is impossible to miss. Not everybody though, really takes the time to look over it properly, which is a pity. A thorough study of the column is free-of-charge, can be undertaken 24-hours-a-day and is an insightful glimpse into the values and priorities of 18th-century central Europe. Tourist information produces a detailed (free) brochure describing the history and details of the column and several of the city guide booklets have similar information and are available at newsstands throughout the historic centre.

The astronomical clock (glockenspiel) that graces the front of Olomouc’s town hall is one of only two in the Czech lands. Set into a 14m tall arched recess, the clock has been one of the city’s most prominent monuments since it originated in 1474 during a major reconstruction of the entire building.

The clock has a long tradition of being remodelled to suit the tastes of the time. The first redesign was just 100 years after construction (1573-75), the second was after the thirty years war (1661-62), and the third introduced the baroque style in 1746-47. Mechanical problems plagued the clock throughout the 1800’s and in 1898 a major refurbishment in the neo-gothic style not only altered the external appearance of the clock but introduced an updated mechanism to allow the earth and planets to orbit a central sun for the first time.

The current appearance of the Olomouc clock dates from a rebuilding in the 1950’s, ostensibly to repair damage suffered in the closing days of WWII. The communist authorities of the time enthusiastically took the opportunity to redesign the clock in the style of socialist-realism. All representations of religion were removed, with the saints, monks and angels replaced by figures from the proletariat working class; bare-chested labourers, workers with their tools, and muscular sportspeople. The background mosaic features larger than life representations of a scientist and a mechanic, depictions of agricultural workers in each of the twelve months, as well as two local folk customs, the Ride of the Kings and the Procession of Maidens.

Thankfully, many of the older figurines have been preserved and together with some of the original mechanical workings and hand painted dials, form an interesting display in the local history and science museum on Náměstí Republiky. There’s also a display of some of the older representations of the clock in the window just a few metres to it’s left.

The two large dials of the clock face represent the earthly and heavenly spheres. The lower dial indicates measurements such as time of the day, day of the week, month, and the phase of the moon. If you know the Czech version of your given name, you’ll also be able to find which day of the year is your name day. The upper dial representing the heavenly sphere shows the positions of the sun, moon and planets in the sky.

At 12 Noon each day, the clock bursts into motion; the blacksmiths hammer out 12 chimes to indicate the hour and the proletariat figures begin their circular procession. The musical accompaniment uses much the same technology as it did 500years ago, to play three local tunes including "The long and winding road to Olomouc". The whole performance takes 8 or 9 minutes, but the more impatient spectators usually wander away about half-way through. It’s not every day you get to see a communist astronomical clock, though, and I think it’s worth staying until the end to see who has the last laugh….

The six baroque fountains that decorate Olomouc’s streets and squares are a constant reminder of the waters that have flowed through the history of the city since its founding.

Olomouc was first settled to guard over an important Morava River ford on the ancient amber route and the fresh water spring on St Michael’s hill is also important to the history of the city. Legend has it that Roman soldiers camped beside the spring for the fresh water and the defensive position on the highest of Olomouc’s three hills.

The stone fountains were built during the late 17th and early 18th centuries and they all consist of several steps leading up to a deep basin, with a statue or sculpture rising from the water. Their original purposes were to supply convenient drinking water, and to decorate the city according to the somewhat theatrical baroque ideas of the time. Many cities removed their fountains when it became possible to pipe water, but the authorities in Olomouc decided to preserve theirs, both for their artistic value and as an emergency reserve, for example, in case of fire.

Five of the fountains represent Roman gods, and the oldest is the Neptune fountain on the lower square. Completed in 1683, the fountain represents the God of Water held aloft by four "sea-horses" (which look remarkably like ordinary land-horses half-submerged in water).

The other fountain on the lower square originally depicted St Florian, protector against fire, but was changed to represent Jupiter, Mightiest of all Gods, soon after nearby Hradisko monastery constructed a fountain representing Saturn, second-highest in the godly hierarchy.

The Hercules fountain on the upper square is another that underwent a major change. It was moved from its original site to make way for the construction of the (now UNESCO-listed) Holy Trinity Column. Hercules holds a chequered eagle (symbol of the city of Olomouc) protectively under one arm while swinging his club to keep a seven-headed monster at bay with the other.

The other fountain on the main square is the only one representing a human; Julius Caesar. Caesar is depicted on horseback, gazing towards the hill where he supposedly camped with his legions. Below are two water-men, symbolizing the Morava and Danube rivers, each holding an urn from which water flows back into the basin. A seated dog at the rear of the statue expresses Olomouc’s loyalty to the Viennese Imperial authorities of the day.

The last two fountains are less conspicuous; the Tritons fountain is on Republic square near the history museum and was inspired by the famous fountain of the same name in Rome. The Mercury fountain is located, appropriately for the god of business and travel, near the Prior department store beside the old main road to Litovel.

The six baroque fountains are graceful and unique works of art individually, and as a group they offer a fascinating insight into the thoughts, beliefs and priorities of the citizens of Olomouc three hundred years ago.