Through the Market Stalls of Chichi

Quick Tips:

I've heard that the Thursday market in Chichi is smaller and less crowded but just as colorful. I'm sure there is still a wealth of goods to buy; I would like to go back on a Thursday to experience the difference.

Unlike other street markets I've been to, pressure to buy is somewhat low. You may be asked by a merchant if you're interested in a purchase, but if you aren't, that's usually the end of it. There are many potential buyers running around. The only exception to this was sellers who did not have stalls and carried their goods with them. They were able to follow seemingly uninterested shoppers and lay on the pressure. Overall, shopping in Chichi's market is laid-back and great fun.

Best Way To Get Around:

Within the market itself, expect to walk. It can be congested with people, items, and animals. Watch your belongings, and especially your wallet, which is just common sense, but I didn't have any problems. If there is a crowd or someone in your way, politely say permiso and you will be allowed through.

Getting to Chichi from Antigua, Guatemala City, or Panajachel is relatively easy. Ask a tour operator about the regularly running shuttles.

My shuttle dropped me off near this intersection, and the restaurant was easy to find: a large sign that said Los Confrades hung over the street. I climbed up to the upstairs portion of the restaurant.

I ordered the Desayuno Nacional, which consisted of two fried eggs over warm corn tortillas, all covered in a simple salsa of diced fresh tomato and onion. This was accompanied by sausage, black beans, and slices of fried banana. It was delicious comfort food in a nice upper-scale atmosphere. I couldn't eat all that was on my plate, but I greedily gulped my mug of black-as-night, REAL coffee (included). The price for the meal was only Q27, or less than $3.50, and it geared me up for a full day of shopping! I didn't even have to, or want to, stop for lunch.

Eating upstairs was nice because a tiny deck goes around the restaurant from which you can watch the market-goers and take pictures without being offensive; it’s a good place to pause and consider a game plan for the chaotic marketplace below. I most definitely recommend a large and wholesome breakfast before setting off into the crowds.

On Sundays, Chichi transforms from a sleepy hilltop town to a bustling meeting place to buy, sell, and trade all goods Guatemalan (Thursdays are also market days). Although it sells artesania for the hordes of tourists who file through each week, there are also stalls for the locals selling anything they might need. It's also a great place for people-watching. Indigenous people in full traditional dress come here to do business. It is usually considered offensive to take photographs, but if you take photos from a distance and are discreet, it can be okay. If you want a photograph of someone in particular, approach them and offer them a tip; they will usually allow it.

For under Q200, or $30, I bought an armful of goods. I had about 4 hours before my shuttle returned to pick me up, so there was plenty of time to go up and down the streets. Even so, I think it is impossible to get completely familiar with all there is in Chichi in one day.

Shuttles are available from nearly all tourist agencies in Antigua on market days, Thursdays and Sundays. Expect to pay between $8 and $10. Shuttles leave early, at 7am, and arrive in Chichi around 10am. Shuttles return to Antigua in the afternoon around 2 or 2:30pm. The drive to Chichi and back is about 2.5 hours through the Guatemala Highlands.

I took the shuttle bus from I.R.C. Travel, located at 6a Avenida Norte No.39 in Antigua, north of the yellow and white La Merced church. The shuttle bus was late picking me up, which was okay since my alarm (which hadn't failed before or since!) did not go off that morning.

Admittedly, I slept through most of the drive there and only woke up once we hit the traffic coming into Chichicastenango. Traffic is a huge problem getting to the market. The popularity of the Sunday markets has caused a multitude of vehicles to literally cram themselves into Chichi's tiny streets, vying to get to the city center. It eats up a lot of time and causes a lot of stress on drivers and passengers alike.

I.R.C.'s shuttle was 2 hours late picking us up. The tardiness, that time, was not so okay with me. I stood there on the corner with strangers, hoping we weren't abandoned in the city, which by the way, was still jammed-packed with vehicles, their tense drivers, and blaring horns. Eventually we were swept away, and we arrived back in Antigua in time for dinner. I.R.C redeemed itself, because, even though I left my fleece, my precious "chumpa," I.R.C. got it back to me within 2 days even though the shuttle had since been all over Guatemala (albeit, I had to pester them about it...).

On my next trip to Guatemala in March 2005, I plan to return to Chichi for another Sunday market and will update this journal with my new experiences.