Nong Khai: Touch Point

Overview

Indochina Market Photo - Nong Khai, Thailand

Quote:

The Fireballs Naga Festival, Bang Fai Phaya Nak, occurs in October and provides a good reason for visiting the town. I was a whole week and no fireballs were visible, but that was irrelevant. Dozens of food stalls appeared at the promenade and at least two stages hosted local musical groups in the evenings. The food was fabulous, and besides the expected hits, many tasty variations appeared, like the Ma Muang Tam, a variation of the Som Tam salad prepared with mango instead of with papaya. The Mekong got its share in the festivities as well; during the day, it hosted colorful boat races and in the night, it was elegantly decorated with Naga Boats, which resembled serpents and dragons. People launched ...Read More

The Fireballs Naga Festival, Bang Fai Phaya Nak, occurs in October and provides a good reason for visiting the town. I was a whole week and no fireballs were visible, but that was irrelevant. Dozens of food stalls appeared at the promenade and at least two stages hosted local musical groups in the evenings. The food was fabulous, and besides the expected hits, many tasty variations appeared, like the Ma Muang Tam, a variation of the Som Tam salad prepared with mango instead of with papaya. The Mekong got its share in the festivities as well; during the day, it hosted colorful boat races and in the night, it was elegantly decorated with Naga Boats, which resembled serpents and dragons. People launched Krathong (candles in the center of flowers' crowns) from a small wooden pier, and they gracefully floated away into the dark. Wat Pho Chai is east from the morning market and hosts a Lan Xang era sitting Buddha, its head is pure gold, and the Utsanit (the flame top head ornament) is set with rubies. Sala Kaeo Ku is located east of the town and includes a diagram of the Wheel of Life, built with Hindu shaped statues.

Quick Tips:

Inner Isaan is a thrilling place; if you are short in time, you can make a day trip to Srichiangmai. Chiang Khan offers a better option, but you will need to stay overnight. If you decide to continue eastwards along the Mekong, then arriving to Nakhon Phanom in the same day is difficult; plan a night in Bung Kan. The Morning Market is behind the terminal and it is worth a visit; the coffee here arrives from Laos and they use similar preparation methods. As in all Thai towns along the Mekong, there is here an Indochina Market; it is in the northwestern part of the promenade; if you are continuing from here to Laos, it is wiser to delay the shopping. There is a small tourists’ center hosting several guesthouses and restaurants by the market’s north end. Even if you stay in another hotel, I recommend visiting the Sawasdee Guesthouse, 402 Meechai Road, opposite the Srikunmuang Wat: its traditional Thai structure has been tastefully restored with much love and care and is a feast to the eyes. On Prajak Road, around the Seven Eleven, is the Night Market that hosts many food stalls every day after dark.

Best Way To Get Around:

Nong Khai is a narrow town entrapped between the river and Highway 212; walking is the best way to move around while there. From here to the Friendship Bridge, a tuk-tuk costs 30B from the Highways 2 and 212 junction at the town entrance. There are buses from the terminal, which is between street number 3, called also Prajak Road, and the Highway 212. The buses to Tha Bo and Srichiangmai travel south and enter Highway 211, thus they are of no help. Nong Khai is very well connected to Bangkok, but due to the length of the trip, I recommend to take a local bus to the next city, Udon Thani. Local buses cost 21B (1hr, 57km) and leave you at the local terminal. A tuk-tuk will take you to the center, where the main terminal is (10B). Udon offers many options for a pleasant afternoon before taking a night bus to Bangkok. If you are planning to explore inner Isaan, you can travel along highways 211 and 212, which follow the Mekong, or opt for the dry way: go to Khon Kaen in the geographic center of Isaan; it is superbly connected to all its towns. Read Less

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Sawasdee Guesthouse

Hotel

Sunset over the Mekong River Photo - Bang Fai Phaya Nak, Nong Khai, Thailand

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LocationSawasdee Guesthouse is opposite to the central Srikunmuang Wat. Located at the almost geographical center of this elongated town, it offers an ideal location near the promenade over the Mekong River and the Indochina Market.Thai Teak WoodThe guesthouse traditional Thai teak-wood structure has been tastefully restored with much love and care and is a feast to the eyes. The external wooden doors have big rectangular windows; some o...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 10, 2007

Sawasdee Guesthouse
402 Meechai Road
Nong Khai, Thailand

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Srichiangmai

Attraction

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Srichiangmai is one of those rare towns overlooked by most traveling guides; such places withhold a promise of a close contact with the local life and culture. Timing the VisitThe town is better explored as part of a trip along the Thai Mekong River or while traveling in western Isaan. Another possibility is making a detour from Nong Khai or Vientiane.Reaching SrichiangmaiReaching Srichiangmai is easy; from Nong Khai there are frequent buses to Tha Bo, which is fifteen kilometers to the northwest, the trip costs 8B and longs thirty minu...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 6, 2007

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An Overnight Trip to Beung Kan

Attraction

Plah Kluk Ka-min Photo - Mukdahan, Thailand

Quote:

An attractive option for an overnight stop along the wilder parts of the Mekong riverside is the town of Beung Kan; the 136km separating it from Nong Khai do not allow a short day trip, but the town is worth a longer visit, and is a natural stop while Thai Mekong. The WayThe way from Nong Khai to Beung Kan does not follow closely the Mekong riverside and most of the time the river is not visible, nevertheless the ...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 8, 2007

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The Espresso Syndrome: Visiting Udon Thani

Attraction

Quote:

Even while visiting paradise, we feel once in a while the longing for an espresso or the will to see useless gadgets shining behind a spotless mall window; then, most of us would find the right excuse for reaching the nearest city. Nong Khai has a beautiful and comfortable mall just south from its main entrance; but placed in the heart of a rural area, the experience feels wrong and unfulfilling its purpose.The EscapeAn hour south from there, is Udon Thani, the last city along northern Highway 2; it is not even the biggest city in Isaan, the northea...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 8, 2007

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Sala Kaeo Ku or Wat Khaek

Attraction

Quote:

No visit to Nong Khai is complete without a stopover in Sala Kaeo Ku, or Wat Khaek as is usually called. Slightly east from the town, it offers a sculpted interpretation of the Hindu and Buddhist mythologies.Reaching the SiteIn a sunny day, it is a pleasant walk from downtown to the temple. Follow Highway 212 eastwards and at kilometer 4.15 (many milestones help accomplishing this task), slightly over thirty minutes from the bus terminal, a small detour appears at the right side; the temple is two-hundred meters along this road.If traveling by car is prefered, tuktuks from Nong Khai happily cover the distance. Moreover, every bus leaving the tow...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 10, 2007

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Bang Fai Phaya Nak

Attraction | "The Naga Festival or Bang Fai Phaya Nak"

Quote:

Once a year, Nong Khai becomes the center of a big event: the Naga Fireball Festival, locally known as Bang Fai Phaya Nak. Due to the lunar calendar characteristics, its date changes yearly, but usually it takes place during the month of October. OriginSeveral versions exist regarding the true nature of this event; the mythological one claims that Nagas spit fireballs from the Mekong riverbed, the unproven, scientific one, tells that methane gas is discharged from the depths, but most locals testify of firecrackers launched from just below the water surface by...Read More

Member Rating 5 out of 5 on December 10, 2007

Bang Fai Phaya Nak

Nong Khai, Thailand

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Nong Khai Journals

Nong Khai: Touch Point