Zagreb - It's Not What You'd Expect

We can't stress enough how safe Croatia is - we got so much flak from just about everyone we know for choosing this destination for our honeymoon. The war has been over for years and the country has recovered with a vengeance. It was so peaceful and serene - Croatia has amazing beaches (both sand and rock), placid little coastal towns, and a lot of bang for the buck. It should not be overlooked.

Quick Tips:

Croatia is a tourist destination for German, Italian, and English travelers - however, their tourist season ends abruptly on August 31. We arrived on Sept. 5 and stayed the rest of the month and had virtually all restaurants, beaches, etc.. to ourselves.

Best Way To Get Around:

We rented a car in Zagreb and drove to Opatija and then down the coast. Car rental is more expensive than in the US, and gas was about per gallon in 9/2000. The ferry system is very reliable and very cheap: we took a car ferry to Rab Island, and took passenger ferries (some were like cruise ships) after we dropped off the car in Split, and all was satisfactory. Taxis are also very fair and reliable - several times we made verbal agreements with taxi drivers to return on a later date to take us to the airport/ferry, and to our surprise each time they showed up on time and took us to our destination for a fair rate.

The Esplanade is Zagreb's most famous "grand old hotel." While it wouldn't hold up to New York or Paris standards of glamour today, it has an Eastern European old world charm that we really liked. The staff was fantastic, providing us with free internet hook-up in their business suite and helping us acclimate to the city. Our room was a suite with living room and separate bedroom (complete with brocade curtains to separate the rooms) and large windows that opened out onto a terrific view of Starcevicev Trg (square) below. Our large, wonderful bathroom had terrific water pressure - perfect for washing the long flight off. Each room has a mini-bar that is cheaper than most European mini-bars, but still much more than you could purchase the items elsewhere in town. Breakfast in the lovely restaurant is not to be missed - they put out quite a spread. The hotel is well situated - you can see pretty Tomislavov Trg from your windows, and the main "downtown" shopping ares - Trg bana Josipa Jelacica, is only about 6 blocks away. The "old" district, Gornji Grad and Kaptol are just a short distance beyond Trg Bana Josipa Jelecica. The area is very safe, and so are the afore mentioned districts. There is even an underground shopping mall practically underneath the hotel. The main train station, Glavni Kolodvor, is within walking distance. The Esplanade's web address is http://www.esplanade.tel.hr/esplanade/.

Dolac is a large outdoor market, where (primarily older) Zagreb locals buy fresh fruits and vegetables, clothing, housewares - you name it. There are hundreds of stalls, and it's a great place to pick up some fresh fruit or baked goods. There are also a few stalls that sell traditional Croatian crafts, including lace tablecloths and placemat/napkin sets and little tchotchkes. I purchased a beautiful red and white checkered woven tablecloth here. Don't be afraid to bargain for an item - it is expected.

Dolac is fun to stroll through - it's a good place to see the older population of Zagreb in action.

St. Mark's is a small church located amidst Parliamentary buildings and the Ban's Palace, and is easily identified by its colorful tiled roof. The roof tiles vividly depict the coats of arms of Croatian, Slavonia, Dalmatia, and Zagreb (the largest). This innovative roof was tiled in the late 1800s, but the church itself was built in the 1300s. The building has undergone several reconstructions due to earthquakes (the belltower was reconstructed in the 1500s). Inside the church are works by Croatia's most famous sculptor, Ivan Mestrovic. You have to have good timing to be able to see the inside of St. Marks', as it is only open twice per day on weekdays for mass and four times a day on Sundays. Even if you can't get inside, the patriotic roof is worth a look. I've never seen anything like it.

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is an impressive sight. The church itself has endured many incarnations, as Tartar attacks, invading Turks, fires, and an earthquake have brought about a string of de- and re-constructions of the building. The facade we see today, including the 100+ meter high twin neo-gothic spires, was built in the late 1800s, and blends seamlessly with the remains of the 13th century structure.

The cathedral was once again undergoing construction work when we visited in September 2000. Nevertheless, the church is beautiful, even when covered in scaffolding. The exterior statuary is haunting, and the interior of the church is remarkable as well. Dark, solemn and quiet, the church's interior space is smaller and more intimate than many other European churches, such as Notre Dame, St. Vitus' Cathedral in Prague, or the major Italian churches. While tourists are welcomed, the cathedral is still very much a functioning place of daily worship.

Inside the church, be sure to see a triptych by Albrect Durer, located on a side altar. Also of note is the tomb of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac. There are several marble altars and statues as well. A magnificent organ fills the back of the church.

There is no admission to get into the church. The towers were closed to visitors when we were there due to construction/renovations, however I believe that under normal circumstances tourists may pay a small fee to ascend the towers for a view of Zagreb.