Mallorca: Spain’s Treasure Island

The Balearic Islands were settled in turn by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, and Moors. The word Balearic comes from the Greek word meaning ‘hurl’; the early Mallorcans were ready to defend with slingshots and catapults, and it seemed they did so with skill and relish.

In 1229, James the First, King of Aragon, defeated the Moors, thus ending four centuries of Moorish domination. Despite their long reign, the only authentic Arabic remains in Palma, except for parts of the Almudaina, are the Arab baths a little to the east of the cathedral. Not much remains, but the 12 supporting pillars are thought to have come originally from the ruins of a Roman temple. The little garden around the baths is pretty and has an ancient peacefulness about it.

Palma, the capital city, is great for walkers, with something for everyone. It is a city rich in history, evidenced by its stunning cathedral, palaces, castles, and parks. One of the attractions is the fact that you can be sitting and gazing out at the sea in Palma in the morning and be admiring limestone terraces that ribbon the hills of Deià or Valdemossa by afternoon.

Quick Tips:

Clean beaches and Windex-blue waters are a real draw to this island, and there are many from which to choose. All the beaches are accessible by bus from Palma. Magaluf and Palma Nova beaches are popular with young families. Explore the hidden coves and quieter beaches along the north coast.

See quaint towns and villages on the vintage train to Soller. Sublime scenery works its own spell as the train winds its way through the Tramuntana Mountains and extremely narrow tunnels. Or rent a car for the day and barrel down roads that seem to execute triple-lutzes in mid-air.

Visit the hilltop Royal Carthusian Monastery of Jesus De Nazareth in picturesque Valldemossa. Frederic Chopin and his lover George Sand spent the winter of 1838/9 in the monastery, and the town hosts hives of galleries and tourists.

The old town of Palma is a pedestrian’s delight and a treasure trove of historical buildings; its jewel is the majestic cathedral erected in the 13th century by James the First. Markets, parks, and a wonderful harbour add to Palmas attraction. The tourist offices located at Plaza de Espanya and Plaza de la Reina give out maps and bus time tables.

Best Way To Get Around:

Driving
There is an excellent road network. Rent from well-known companies like Hertz and Avis. Car rental companies abound in the resorts, but if you do rent from them, read the contract. We rented a small car from a no-name, and halfway down a mountain, I discovered that we were responsible for returning the car to the company in case of breakdown.

Bus
There are good connections to all towns. The buses to Palma from the beach resorts stop outside designated hotels and cost €1 one-way. We paid €1.10 from the port to Placa Espanya(bus #1). There is a regularly scheduled airport bus from Palma. There is also a bus to Port De Soller, with a €2 return.

Tour Bus
This bus leaves every twenty minutes from the port; this gives you hop-on, hop-off benefits. The whole tour takes 80 minutes, at a cost of €14 for adults, €7 for children 2 years and under.

Taxis
Taxis here are metered. We took a taxi from Placa Espanya to the port, and he charged €10 instead of the €4 on the meter; he said it was a port charge. Check surcharges first.

Location:
This sophisticated, 11-story hotel is well-positioned for access to the town center, harbour, and Cala.Mayor Palma’s closet beach (two miles away and accessible by bus). The bus stop is a two-minute walk from the hotel. In the summer, a courtesy shuttle bus is provided for guests. The cathedral is a 2km walk or a five-minute bus ride. Belver Castle, a must-see, is located 500m from the hotel. There are many shops and restaurants close by. This hotel’s proximity to the harbour is a bonus. Some of the most expensive yachts in the world are moored here. If you visit in summer, you may see the king’s yacht.

Indoor Public Areas
The foyer is fabulous, upscale, and classy in an Art Deco movie-set style. There are three marble staircases, and the main one sweeps down in a gentle curve past a black grand piano. One expects to see Greta Garbo lounging across the ivory keys. The exquisitely decorated dining room is on the mezzanine, and on the ground floor is a smaller, more intimate restaurant. We enjoyed the round brass bar in the foyer; after walking back from town, we relaxed and chatted to the friendly staff over drinks. The English-speaking staff was very helpful in recommending visits and providing bus route info.

Our Accommodation
All rooms have balconies either overlooking the harbour or Belver Castle. We were lucky to have a harbour view. I enjoyed the view of the majestic cathedral, all floodlit and magical, and the harbour lights twinkling over hundreds of moored boats and their masts. Our room was moderate in size, plainly furnished, and yet had a peaceful elegance. Linens and drapes were in neutral colours but were enlivened with a pale yellow love seat and small rosewood table sporting fresh flowers. Little attentions like the flowers and the potpourri in the bathroom count so much.

The marble-tiled bathroom was roomy and contained a huge tub and shower. Robes, towels, and a host of toiletries were provided, plus a hair dryer. Good water pressure made it perfect. The hotel was impeccably maintained in all areas.

Outdoor Public Areas
The terrace area was delightful and inviting. The free-form pool, sun loungers, and outdoor bar made for a relaxing visit. I especially appreciated the covered canopied area—we always found a shady spot. On our first night, a wedding party was having photos taken, and the harbour seemed to me a perfect backdrop for a perfect bride.

Clients
The clientele was a mixture of business people and couples. We didn’t see any children, but our friendly bar staff said there are lots of children in the summer. A buffet breakfast was included in the rate.

Amenities

Two pools, one indoor
Two restaurants.
Lobby bar, pool bar, café
Business center
Solarium, sauna, massage
A/C, hair dryer, in-room safe
Fridge, minibar
Satellite TV

Email: melia.palas.atenea@solmelia.com

This four-star hotel located in a quiet area of Magaluf is affiliated with the Sol Antilles, which adjoins the property. Between them, they have 737 rooms. The Barbados has 428 and the Antilles has 319. We were allowed to use both facilities, and I did not find much of a difference between them. The level of service was superb in both places
The hotel caters mainly to package tours, and the guests are predominantly British.

Its location, just 175m from the beach, is ideal for families. Access is through a walkway between hotel complexes. There are several outdoor pools; my favorite was the one overlooking the beach. There is also an indoor Jacuzzi and spa at the Antilles, and an indoor pool at the Barbados. Other leisure offerings included a video games room, a tennis court, and a daily and nightly entertainment program. Pool towels are provided.

Our room on the sixth floor was simply furnished and moderately sized. Sliding doors opened onto a small balcony furnished with a small table and two chairs. The view overlooking the pools and part of Magaluf Bay was very peaceful and a great place for a nightcap.

There was a minibar and in-room safe {fee for safe}. The tiled bathroom was a good size, and there was hot water with great water pressure. I was unimpressed with the toiletries. They basically consisted of a small pump dispensing body washes. The linens, however, were very nice – good size, fluffy towels and crisp sheets. A satellite TV, a phone, air-conditioning, and adequate lighting made for a comfortable room.

The main entrance was large enough to accommodate tour groups and furnished with modern furniture and places to sit. Three elevators opened out to the main lobby. The front desk staff was very pleasant and always busy. There are several bars and one huge dining area. All meals are buffet style. The food choices were excellent and varied. Servers, all men dressed in uniform, promptly dispensed drinks, and there seemed to be a server for every six tables.

We enquired at the desk for the price of one-night stays I was quoted 90€, including breakfast {price per room}. However, it appears that the airlines book blocks of rooms, so I would think that reservations are recommended. This is a good solid value hotel that is comfortable and modern. It is about 10-minute walk to the center of Magaluf, with small stores and a nice bar {Pink Panther} across the street. Rowdy partygoers do not patronize this area.

I first saw this cathedral as our cruise ship set sail. Upon our return to Palma, it was early morning, and the superb building seemed to rise from the edge of the sea as the morning sun burnished it to a reddish gold. I will never forget that vision of the morning sky—the broken silhouette of Palma’s roofs, palm trees, and belfries, and towering above them, the huge cathedral, with its flying buttresses and pinnacles crowning the city.

Erected in the 13th century by Jaume the First, its construction extended over 400 years, and in some ways, it is still incomplete if one takes into account the unfinished bell tower. The lengthy construction explains its mix of architectural styles: Renaissance, neo-Gothic, and Gothic. It was completed in 1601. Following reconstruction (fter an 1851 earthquake damaged the west portion of the building), many disparaged the refurbished building because it did not blend with the original design.

Before entering the cathedral, walk around the outside—its sheer size astounds. Enter by the small door opposite the palace. First, you will probably visit the treasury museum in the two small rooms. Most notable are the richly wrought reliquaries made from Inca gold. One of the crosses is purported to hold a relic of the cross. Also stunning are two baroque candelabras made from solid silver (circa 1700), each candelabrum with arms—one for each day.

After the museum, you will enter the west doorway, and from here the full splendor of the slender soaring columns, naves, and 44-meter-high vaults is revealed. They are in perfect harmony with the space, and the impression they produce at any hour—but especially at twilight—is one of intense amazement. Gaudi’s great rose window (said to be the largest in the world) and two smaller windows filter sunlight in colors of red, blue, and green, plus the addition of 35 other, smaller stained-glass windows positioned above the naves, make this interior magical as the light bounces off and around the columns.

Another must-see is Gaudi’s enormous baldachin over the altar. It is fashioned from wrought iron, cork, cardboard, and brocade, symbolizing the crown of thorns. The baldachin remains unfinished, but it is stunning.

The Trinity Chapel behind the altar contains the tombs of the Kings of Mallorca. Check out the 15th-century carvings that adorn the choir stalls and visit the lovely chapels. Take note also of the exquisite doors. At the main west entrance, the statue of the virgin is surrounded by symbols of the sun and moon, a palm tree, and a house with a tree-embellished courtyard. The palm is traditionally a symbol of welcome.

There is so much to see in this church. Guides are available, plus you can rent tour tapes. I would recommend a full morning to get the best out of your visit.

Visiting Times.
April-October: Monday-Friday 10am-5pm
November-March: Monday-Friday 10am-3pm, closed Sunday except for Mass
Admission €3

We rented a car for the day in Palma Nova. There a lot of car hire firms touting for business along the main street. We paid around $30 for the day and given directions to its pick-up point a few streets away. It took us about half an hour to find the car, and we were told to park it in the same place upon return and drop the keys in the mail slot.

Armed with a map, we set off toward the southwest coast. I knew having the car would mean at least one heart-stopping, harrowing plunge down a twisting narrow mountain road - and I was right. Some of those roads are so narrow, but I wouldn’t have missed the incredible scenery for anything.

Following the road signs, we traveled through wooded hills, passing orchards and blossom-filled trees. We stopped at a small village {one store and a few houses} for water. I paused and snapped a photo of a rustic home. It was like being in a time warp despite the close proximity of the brash beach resorts.

The road to Valldemosa is beautiful, but it is a real mountain pass with an interminable succession of hairpin bends. We reach Valldemossa by way of a coast road perched dizzily above the intensely blue sea. The coast roads many cornices are reminiscent of the south of France.

This place is delightful and renowned. It is a small village with sloping streets, restaurants, and boutiques. It is very popular, and at times, quite crowded. In the 14th century, King Shancho built his royal palace here. Later, King Martin of Aragon gifted the building to the Carthusian monks, who built the charterhouse on the site. Anti-clerical measures and political upheavals in 1836 resulted in the monks’ departure. The monks’ individual apartments, each consisting of two or three spacious cells and small garden, were purchased by local families.

George Sand and Frederic Chopin stayed here during the winter of 1838/39, thinking the climate would alleviate Chopin’s ill health. They caused quite a stir. They were not married and George Sand scandalized the locals because she smoked and wore trousers. Chopin composed most of his preludes here, but his piano was delayed and had to be transported over the rough and winding roads from Palma. Surprisingly, it was undamaged. Even today the roads are challenging. His piano remains, plus a few manuscripts. Everyday a rose is placed on the silent yellowed keys.

The Monastery Start your tour in the church. The building is in the neoclassical style and built in the shape of a Latin cross surmounted by a cupola. The Baroque ceiling paintings are outstanding, as is the high altar; check out the frescoes above the nave that were painted by Goya’s brother-in-law who was a monk. There are the usual garish depictions of saints undergoing torture but also some very moving paintings of the Madonna. Behind the cloisters, the monk’s apothecary crammed with jars, all labeled with names of various ointments, herbs, and salves, is interesting. The antique glass jars and ceramics are exquisite. The priors cell adjacent to a serene garden allows panoramic views of the valley.

Another famous person, Michael Douglas, has a home in Valldemossa. He supports and is active in promoting the cultural aspects of the north coast. He created a cultural center, Costa Nord, to that end. A film narrated by Douglas recreates the boat journey of Archduke Ludwig Salvatore of Austria. The archduke fell in love with a carpenter’s daughter and stayed for 22 years. We spent a good hour wandering around the monastery and could have lingered for the scenery.

Deià for lunch. Having been here before {when we did a 12km hike to Port d Soller}, we decided to have lunch then take a stroll around the tiny village. We had a wonderful lunch at Jaime Restaurant {Carrier Archduke Ferdinande, but anyone can direct you}. Here they serve a wonderful variety of Majorcan dishes. The menu is extensive, including fresh fish. Being vegetarian, we don’t eat it, but it did smell good. We started with wine, then a hearty bean and vegetable soup, followed by crusty bread soaked in olive oil, a fresh cheese assortment, and the dessert I made this drive for - almond cake. After Spanish coffees, we were ready for a stroll. There is not much to Deià. The main street is also a part of the main highway, but take time to wander around the twisting alleys and admire the old stone houses right out of a children’s storybook. The poet Robert Graves, an icon here, is buried in the churchyard. If you can’t take a guided walk, do walk to Cala Deià, a small coved rocky beach edged with jagged cliffs. The walk takes about 30 minutes, the footpath is signed, and the steps leading down to the footpath are steep. Leaving the village, we admired the terraced fields that slope down to the incredibly blue sea

Our final stop was at the town of Soller set in a lovely valley and dwarfed by the Tramontana Mountains surrounding it. The town itself is very small, with narrow lanes, a main square, and lovely old plane trees. We stopped here for a coffee and just walked around the village. You can get a vintage tram to Port de Soller, but we didn’t have time. During the drive down the serpentine road back to Palma Nova, I learned that we were responsible for return of the car in case of a breakdown and at our expense. When renting from Hertz/Avis, read the fine print.

Admission to monastery :8€, open daily 9:30am to 6pm {Sunday 10am to 1pm}
Sollers vintage train to and from Palma: 4€ round-trip
Lunch 20€
Train from Palma TO Soller..............FROM Soller to Palma
8am...............................................................6:45am
10:40 - tourist train with photo stop.............9:15am
1pm..............................................................11:50am
3:15pm..........................................................2:10pm
8:05pm (7:45pm in winter)...........................7pm (6:30pm in winter)

Magaluf is the only town in Spain where it is hard to get Spanish food. Well, that’s not totally true, but Spanish cuisine takes a backseat here. Ninety-nine percent of the visitors are British, and it seems as though they have brought their cafes with them.

This experience isn’t something we’d have booked, but it turned out to be quite a diversion. Our airline experienced trouble replacing a part on our homebound plane, so they put us up in a hotel here for two days, all expenses paid. When they announced that we were going to Magaluf, I was dismayed, because the resort has a well-deserved reputation for being a party place. We knew about Magaluf, having stayed the year before in Illetes, a quieter resort closer to Palma.

Magaluf and the adjoining Palma Nova is around 14km from Palma. Of the two resorts, Palma Nova is quieter. High-rise apartments line the edge of the main beach areas—I wouldn’t call it a concrete jungle, but it’s close. Fast-food cafes and tacky souvenir shops abound cheek-by-jowl with upscale shops selling high-end goods, famed Majorcan pearls, and 22k gold jewelry.

The wide beaches and shallow waters are a magnet for families. We spoke with quite a few families, and they told us the package prices are a bargain—some book the same hotel annually. There is an aqua park, mini-golf, all kinds of water sports, and Marine Land to keep young families occupied.

Once we had settled into our hotel, which to our great relief was tucked at the top end of Magaluf in a quiet area, we set off for a walk along the beach. The beaches are wonderful, and in the daytime people sunbathe and enjoy water sports. As we passed a couple on the beach, a huge fellow exposing porridge-coloured skin plopped himself down on a lounge chair, looked up at the sun, and exclaimed in a broad Midland accent, "Burn Me!" Most people on the beach, sporting lobster tans and beer bellies, seemed to have the same thought.

We left Magaluf beach because of the headland and climbed steps to the roadway; from there, we walked downhill for a few minutes and found ourselves on the far end of Palma Nova beach. Here, facing the sea, was a row of open bars, all with English names: "The Yorkshire Lass," sporting the white rose of Yorkshire, and next door, "Molly’s Bar," sporting the red rose of Lancashire. No wars were occurring, apart from the wail of the TVs, all set on Sky sports. Further down was the "El Mosquito," a Welsh bar, and the "Jungle Bar." We settled down for a couple of pints in "Molly’s Bar" and watched the beach activities. We also noticed the availability of British newspapers, but who wants to read when the view is glorious?

Later in the evening, we started our walk from the hotel to Palma Nova . Palma Nova’s beach has a excellent esplanade. It was 8pm, the shops were open, and of course, the bars were also open. We passed pubs with the names "Benny Hill", "Linakers," "Queen Vic," " Boomerangs," "Eastender," "Poco Loco," and a nightclub called "BCM" (supposed to be the biggest in Europe), where for a 15-euro fee, all drinks and hi-jinks are included.

I was fascinated by the menu offerings. Outside one café, an illuminated board was displaying colour photos of the food: egg and chips, chips and beans. I didn’t understand why the need to photograph such offerings, but there they were in full colour. An egg. And some chips. On a plate! The owner hadn’t stopped there. Photo #3 was billed as "bread and butter," featuring a round of sliced white bread cut in two, with butter. The clients who were served this gastronomic meal wouldn’t be able to say, "What the bloody hell is this?" when the waiter plonked it down. Entrée #13 was pie and mushy peas. The omens for finding indigenous cuisine were as slim as my wallet. If you’re hoping for tapas and paella, go to Palma. The nearest you will get here to exotic food is garlic bread.

Later, returning from Palma Nova, we found the nighttime transformation dramatic: lights flashing, bar touts offering free drinks… they were very persistent. We watched some fellows bungee jumping, flying upside down through the air (I hope they hadn’t eaten), and as we rounded a corner, we heard a raucous rendition of You’ll Never Walk Alone—could be the theme song for Magaluf.

Through the open bar, we saw bodies draped in soccer flags jumping up and down and waving pints of beer around. They were dancing… or, should I say, jigging on the spot and propping each other up. The TV was showing the video of a match they probably watched earlier in the day and probably would watch again before the night was over, comas permitting. Passing by another bar (all are open to the street), I noticed a sign: "Smoking permitted, but secondhand smoke can be harmful". It seemed to do little to dampen the crowd. Plastic glasses were thrown through the air, the cascading beer dramatically lit by the overhead lights, and the customers obliviously careened into each other with wild abandon.

I am told there are over 2,500 bars and clubs in this area; there is no art or culture. It is the kind of place where instant, but fleeting friendships are formed. So I would end by saying that, in the daytime, it is a fun place with scads of shops and a wonderful beach, but the nighttime antics are not for those who like culture and fine dining.

Palma: Situated on the curve of a wide bay is a city of churches and history. The churches stand silently in every corner of the old town, their belfries visible from the distance, but you notice them more as you pass them in the narrow lanes. They are not always open, but most offer morning mass. The two main churches, St. Eulalia and St. Francesco, are open daily for a small admission fee. Travelers with limited time will find Palma a good place to make a base, as it is possible to visit in a series of one-day excursions practically every place of interest on the island.

After breakfast, we set out for our Palma meander. The ancient city has lots to offer; in fact, you are spoiled for choice. The three main areas to Palma area: the old quarter, the modern section, and the harbour. All streets in the old town fan out from the cathedral. It is here we start our tour.

Cathedral Please See La Seu entry:
The Palau de Almundaina is opposite the cathedral. We visited the palace on a previous vacation, but I will mention some highlights. Palau de l’Almundaina was originally a fortress until Jaume the Second converted it into a royal palace. Remaining from that time is an elegant Gothic balcony overlooking the sea and the arch of the Almundaina. It is now the official residence of the King of Spain when he visits Palma. When the king is here, residence parts of the palace are off limits. Some of the highlights are the Flemish tapestries and paintings in the officers’ mess room and the Bannos Arabs room with its three chambers - hot, cold, and tepid - giving one a glimpse into the highly sophisticated world of Moorish engineering. Check out the courtyard, the arch of the Almundaina at the far end of he garden {original}, and the chapel to St Anne.

After leaving the cathedral and palace area, we wandered through the The Parc de la Mar. It is a peaceful place to relax {south side of the cathedral}. Its palm-fringed, tiered areas; fountains; views of the waterfront; and palace make a delightful oasis. This parc contains some modern art in the main area and a wonderful huge blue-and-red tiled mural by Joan Milo. Concerts are held in the summer, artists paint, and human statues abound. If you want to save on meals, take along a picnic basket and people-watch. Many small streets fan out from the cathedral, but we decided to walk through the parc and then visit the Arab Baths. I don’t know how to get to the baths from the side streets, but this is how we found them.

From the Parc de la Mar you should enter through the walled Porta de la Portella located on the right side of the cathedral. Turn right and follow Carrer Serra around to the left. You will then pass under a small bridge, and the original Arab Baths are located at number 7. It is a tiny street that is quite steep. Overhanging trees hide the entrance, and the small sign is very easy to miss. Many have expressed disappointment upon seeing this historic site, as there really is not that much to see. However, I found it very atmospheric. The main bath area has the traditional horseshoe arches in a domed chamber. The supporting pillars are said to be from a Roman temple, and of course, the floor would have been heated. It is necessary to use your imagination. Communal baths were an essential feature of Moorish civilizations. They fell into disuse amongst Christians mainly because they were considered a huge luxury and conductive to vice. The gardens are well-tended to, with stone walkways, cacti, and blossoming shrubs. It is a cool, restful place and so peaceful.

After exiting the baths, we turned right and walked up Carrer Serra, which brought us onto Par Nada and then onto Placa San Francisco. The 13th- to 14th-century church is the resting place of Ramon Llull, Spain’s beloved philosopher, teacher, and scholar. The Baroque doorway and its exquisite sculptures are not to be missed. Check out the cloisters and the 15th-century carved choir stalls. Other notable buildings in this area are the Church of Santa Eula, the 16th-century town hall, and the excellent Museu d Mallorca.

There is much more to see and do in Palma… excellent shopping, beaches, water excursions, and world-class restaurants and cafés. Our sightseeing today, covering only the places mentioned, was filled with stops for meals and snacks. For pastry lovers, try Palma’s landmark theatrical bakeries. The most famous is Forn des Teatre {plaza Weyler}- a heaven for anyone with a sweet tooth. Here you can buy pastries wrapped in colourful Art Nouveau facades that simulate spun sugar. The favourite island sweet is a spiral-shaped bun called an ensaimada. It is large enough to have its own carrying case - delicious.

The city of Palma can be compared to Nice; it is cosmopolitan, lively, and despite modernization, there is a time-warped atmosphere that has withstood waves of invaders and its present tourist hordes. Sit at a café on the Passeig Maritim. In the golden dusk, the subtle Moorish influences are felt most acutely. Here the high campanile resembles a minaret, although it was built many centuries after the Moors’ defeat. Tall palms sway in the light breeze. Above, birds circle over the city ramparts during their evening flight, as they must have done 1,000 years ago when the Moors established themselves here. Palma tourist offices. C/ SantaDomingo. Placa Espanya. Placa de la Reina.
Palau de L Almundaina. Visiting Hours: Monday to Friday 10am to 6:30pm and Saturday 10am to 2pm
October to March Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm; Admission: 3€
Arab Baths: 9:30am to 8pm
December to March 9:30am to 7pm; Admission: 2€
Museu de Mallorca: Tuesday/Saturday 10am to 2pm and 5pm to 8pm and Sunday 10am to 2pm
October to March Tuesday/Saturday 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 6pm and Sunday 10am to 2pm; Admission: 2€