Christmas in Salzburg

It has been a hotel for the past 30 years and has been renovated to be up-to-date while retaining old charms, like the beamed ceilings and almost precarious stairways. It is comfortable, warm, and cozy (yes—small rooms).

It is inexpensively priced for Salzburg, and what you get is an excellent location and a pleasant, welcoming place to hang your hat. What you do not get is television or radio in the room, the services of a concierge, or an in-house restaurant or bar. If those things are not important to you, consider staying here.

The proprietor, Herr Bachleitner, is friendly, knowledgeable about his hometown, and believes in offering a service to travelers. The hotel has been in his family for the past 30 years, and he is justifiably proud of it. He will welcome you easily should you decide to visit.

www.amdom.at

You will need to adjust your thinking to take in the tiny stage, which at first looks a bit silly. It has been said that there are no bad seats, as it is a small auditorium. However, the ticket prices are reasonable, and if you can, sit near the front. These are not full-size people after all, so the closer you are, the better.

About 10 minutes into the show, you will forget that you are looking at puppets. (Full stop.) You will find yourself questioning why the actors' lips aren't moving as they sing. You will even be a bit shocked when a puppet moves across the stage in a way a person never could. And you will probably be a bit taken aback at the giant puppeteers (giant!) who appear, via a mirror, at a 45-degree angle onstage at the end of the play to take their bows.

The theater has been around for more than 90 years, and it is on many must-see lists for Salzburg - for good reason. The theater leans heavily on the operas of Mozart (no surprise), but they also perform a limited number of operas by other composers, including Rossini and Strauss.

If you get a chance, let this magical experience take you away. If you love opera, just do it. If you are with someone not yet enamored of the art form, this is an interesting way of introducing them to opera’s delights.

The festive atmosphere is fueled by stall after stall of ornaments and Christmas decorations; laughter; voices in German, English, and many other languages; the smells of warm food cooking; and the chill in the air.

For lovers of Christmas (or shopping), this is a must-do activity. You will be overwhelmed with the choices and find many excuses to spend money. It likely will not be as interesting to those of you who do not celebrate Christmas, or who do not revel in the pageantry of the holiday. Only a few of the stalls sell items that are not holiday-related, and after awhile, it may look like they are all selling exactly the same things. Regardless of your views on the holiday, this market is worth a visit, even if only to view a slice of the culture and life of the city.

Be aware that the market is frequented by locals and tourists alike (probably more of the latter), so it does get crowded and noisy. You should also be aware that the Christmas markets close (as do many other establishments) between 1 and 2pm on Christmas Eve so folks can get home to celebrate the holiday with family.

As the holiday season nears, you will find a list of Advent markets on the site of the Austrian Tourist Board at www.austria-tourism.at.