Kuala Lumpur: A World-Class City On The Cheap.

Kuala Lumpur, or KL, as the locals know it, is a city alive with energy and change. It can be a place where old meets new in a strange kind of harmony. From RM5 hawker food all the way up to 1,000RM-a-meal dinner, KL has just about every need covered.

KL is a modern city with a long history. Mixed in with all the new, you will see many Moorish-style buildings dating back many years. In this city, you will find modern buildings and companies mixed with traditional homes and eateries. You can travel by ultra-modern rail or something as simple as a bike. There is a unique mix of cultures living harmoniously together, like few other places on Earth. You will see people of Malay, Dyak, Chinese, Indian, Arab, and Caucasian descent, all of whom can be called Malaysians. It takes but a few miles of driving to go from the world’s second-tallest building to a non-air-conditioned single-story wood and tin house.

When in KL, be sure to hit the Petronas Twin Towers, which until 2002 made up the world’s tallest building. KL is also famous for its shopping; whether at a mall or one of the famous night markets, you are sure to get a great deal. KL is also famous for its food. Be sure to hit the suburb of Kajang for its world-famous satay. A beautiful and open-to-the-public Hindu temple is close by also, and Batu Caves is an amazing site perched high in a cave on a mountain side.

KL is also the jumping-off point for just about everywhere else in Malaysia. From KL’s modern airport, you can fly to just about any destination in Malaysia or the world. Take the monorail from the airport to downtown KL, and you will be at KL Sentral (spelled Sentral, not Central). KL Sentral is Malaysia’s main rail and ground transport hub. From here, you can take a train, bus, or cab to just about anywhere.

KL's crime rate overall is low, the biggest problem being purse-snatchings. The city itself is well-policed, and people are often willing to give a hand to a tourist. There are hotels to fit just about any budget and enough things to do for the whole family.

Quick Tips:

To save money in KL, I suggest the following. For hotels, I find that it's best to book directly with them. Many times, rates that you will find when searching Western travel sites will have much higher rates than what they can quote you over the phone. They are also willing to haggle on the price quite a bit. If you want to save money or are "playing it by ear," then check the local Malaysian newspapers. They often run hotel specials there with some deals running as low as RM40 a night for a two-star hotel. You can find good package deals through travel agents, though, so be sure to check around. Also, if there is a large government function, many of the better hotels sell out fast, so be warned. If you will be in KL for some time, just buy a block of subway credits. They will put them on a card, and you can travel hassle-free.

Best Way To Get Around:

Renting a car in KL is not worth it to me. Malaysia has the worst drivers in the world. I know everyone thinks people exaggerate about the worst drivers and everyone thinks they have them. I’m not exaggerating; Malaysia is third-highest in driver fatalities per capita. Also, the drivers do not stop or watch for pedestrians, so be careful when crossing the streets. I drive without fear in L.A. and even Rome, but I will not brave the streets of KL at times. Taxis here are mostly honest and all metered. The average cab fare is around RM7 to just about any major attraction. If you are going a far distance, you can get a set fee ahead of time. The airport is also running an "airport limousine" service. You tell them your exact address, they will give you an exact price, and you pay at the airport. You will get where you are going with no extra fee. The subway goes most places and does so fairly cheaply, also. There is also the faster, but slightly more expensive monorail.

Well, we made a last-minute decision to stay here, and wouldn’t you know it, the place was just about booked up. Kuala Lumpur has a huge variety of rooms, but there was the national UMNO (political party) meeting going on. Most of the better hotels were completely booked or asking for outrageous prices.

We finally found the Florida Hotel by looking in the paper. They had a special rate of RM75 and agreed to honor it even though the UMNO meeting was in town. It turns out it was their last room.

The hotel itself is decent. It’s rated as a two-star, and I would say that it was fairly accurate. It was very clean, though, and not the least bit sleazy. The place was completely remodeled in 2003 and still looks very nice.

The room we got was pretty small but well appointed. All the decorations and furnishings were new or nearly new. It had the usual TV, A/C, and queen-size bed. The bathroom was quite large compared to the room and very clean. This was the first hotel room I stayed in that didn’t have a window, though. This turned out to be a problem, as one of Kuala Lumpur’s all-too-frequent blackouts hit and we couldn’t see a thing for several hours. The hotel people were quite apologetic, but didn’t give any kind of discount.

The staff in general was excellent. They had some honest cabs they could call if needed and helped us in finding some great food. Housekeeping was excellent and heeded our needs for extra pillows and towels quickly. I was also able to get some laundry done very cheaply and quickly by contacting the front desk.

The best thing about this place was the location and price. You can see KL Sentral (the subway) from the hotel, and it is half a block away from the monorail. The Brickfields is an Indian area, and you can get some great food here. It’s not a main tourist area, though, and I’m not sure I would recommend it for families with children. Room prices start at around RM60. It won’t satisfy someone looking for the Ritz, but if you are a budget traveler, you should be more than happy with this place. I would stay there again if I was on a budget, but I would be sure to get a room with a window.

Everyone in Malaysia knows about satay, and every satay-lover knows about Kajang. Kajang is a small place on the outskirts of KL that is famous for its satay. It has become so synonymous with satay that many people simply call it Satay Kajang and there is a particular recipe that comes from this small area.

There are several places in Kajang selling satay, and all are good, but there is one by the stadium that is particularly great. Take the KL-Seremban Highway and exit at the Kajang Toll, and just keep following the signs to Kajang. You will cross a bridge and see a stadium; turn left before the stadium. The places will be packed, and there will be many signs pointing to it. It only takes about 30 minutes to get there and is well worth the drive.

They have a two-story outdoor eating area and a bit of indoor seating, but it’s not air-conditioned inside.

I recommend sitting on the second story, as you will have a great view and a better breeze. It's best to take friends or a large group, as the atmosphere lends itself to conversation and fun. Sit down at the tables, and someone will come by for your order. The satay itself is priced at RM.50 a stick. Order a lot of them. Even though five or six sticks can fill you up; you will wind up eating about 10 or 15 because the taste is so divine. You can order it with fresh-sliced cucumbers, onions, and small balls of sticky rice if you so desire, and I see many locals doing this. All satay is served with a peanut sauce, and the one in Kajang is out of this world. The satay comes as several different meats, but the most popular are chicken and beef. Both are excellent, but I slightly prefer the chicken. The best way to eat satay is with your hands. Simply grab a stick and dip it in the bowl of sauce. Then use your teeth to pull the meat off the stick. It may not be glamorous, but it sure is satisfying. If you were to try and use a fork or other utensil, you might get some unusual stares.

Satay is a food that agrees with just about any taste bud. The meat itself isn’t spicy at all but very flavorful. Some of the peanut sauces can be spicy, but dipping is an option. You can get great satay anywhere in Malaysia, but if you want the absolute best, you have to go to Kajang.

Chances are, if you have talked with someone about shopping in KL, the words "Pasar Malam" have come up. Pasar Malam simply means "night market", and at these markets, you will find some of the best deals on your trip.

A night market, for those who have never seen one, are huge temporary shopping bazaars. In KL, they will close down a series of streets or parking lots, and people will set up tables, chairs, generators, displays, food stalls, and awnings, all hawking wares. People will be selling things like fake Rolexes, fake Oakley sunglasses, CDs, DVDs, household goods, groceries, clothes, food, drinks, and produce. If you want something, chances are that you can find it at a night market.

There are eight or ten large night markets and several smaller ones in KL, and they operate on certain days. One of the ones with better deals is at PETALING STREET in Chinatown. This one starts every day at about 7pm or so and goes until at least 10pm. This place can get crowded, and it is very popular with locals and tourists alike.

Another great market is at BANGSAR BARU, or just Bangsar, as the locals call it. Bangsar is a popular expat area in KL and has many different pubs and clubs also. The night market here is also every night, starting at about 7pm. This one isn’t so closely packed, so it might be a bit better for the claustrophobic.

A HUGE market that happens only on Saturdays is located at LORONG TUANKA ABDUL RAHMAN. It’s a great market, but only on Saturdays. This is my favorite overall, but I often seem to miss it because it’s only one day a week.

There are also several others, like Central Market and others around Petaling and Chow Kit. Many communities have their own markets that are a bit more informal. In KL at night, if there is an open spot, someone will move a stall in and start selling things.

It’s a fun, lively environment full of good deals. Just be sure to leave your purse at the hotel and keep your valuables in your front pocket. It is a safe area because there are so many people, but there are pickpockets around who won’t miss an opportunity. The areas can also get quite packed and hot. Some of the elderly or people with special needs might find it a bit hard to get around with so many people. It would also be fairly easy to get separated from small children, so take that into consideration.

Batu Cave is a major site for people wanting to visit Kuala Lumpur. It is a series of limestone caves about 10 miles from Kuala Lumpur. The caves house an old and beautiful Hindu temple that is still in use. Even though it is a temple, they still allow visitors.

The trek up to the cave takes you up a massive staircase, or 272 steps. This is not a trek for people who can’t handle physical exertion. There are numerous monkeys around, and they have gotten used to and sadly rely on the tourists for food. I have seen people hand-feed them, and locals there sell peanuts for the monkeys, although I’m not sure I would recommend this.

Once you make the trek to the cave itself, you will find that it consists of three main caverns. One of the caverns has a large hole to the sky in the ceiling and contains a small temple. You are able to walk completely around the temple, but if you were to enter it, I think it would be proper to take off your shoes.

The caverns themselves are all quite large and feel nice and cool after the walk up the stairs. There are some interesting Hindu sculptures at the entrance and at various points around the caves.

It’s a neat little trek and close to KL. I would recommend it for families and people who are fit enough for slight physical activity.

To get there, you can either rent a car, take a taxi, or catch a bus at the Pudu Raya Bus Terminal in KL. There is no entrance fee.

First of all, KL is a safe city. I don’t expect you to be accosted by anyone just walking around, but there are occasionally pickpockets and purse-snatchings. There aren’t many really bad areas in KL. I have walked around some of what are considered the worst at night with just my wife accompanying me without problems.

The most common crime overall would be purse-snatching. Two men will ride by on a motorcycle, and the guy on the back will grab for the lady's purse, and then they will speed off. Violent crime is almost unheard of, and when it does happen, it makes the national news. Can you imagine if every violent crime in New York, Los Angeles, or London made the national news? That tells you how infrequently it happens.

Malaysia has the advantage of having a fairly prosperous economy, compared to its neigbhbors, Thailand and Indonesia. The people are also a bit more educated. Both of these factors add up to make the crime rate much lower than many surrounding countries.

Malaysia also doesn’t have sex tourists like Thailand does, so it can be a more family-oriented destination. It’s very creepy for me to go to some resorts in Thailand and see that, and that’s why I prefer Malaysia so much.

Drivers in Malaysia are insane and discourteous. It’s always better to take a taxi or some other form of chauffeur-driven transport when in Kuala Lumpur. Also consider that most cars you rent will not have airbags, as they are not required in Malaysia like they are in the West. At a two-lane stoplight, you will see four lanes of traffic, plus at least three mores lanes of motorcycles. Also, be very careful when crossing the roads, as there are no real "yield to pedestrian" laws like there are in the States. Malaysians also don’t believe in queuing up in a line or letting other drivers out.

Driving in some of the other cities is a little better, though. Driving on the island of Langkawi offers no problems at all.

Malaysia Airlines (MAS) often gets overshadowed buy its neighboring country's Singapore Airlines (SIA), but to be honest, I prefer MAS to SIA. They both offer very similar services. Both have individual TVs for each passenger, even in coach. Both offer a wide range of video games and programming to keep a person entertained. Both have modern fleets and professional staff. So why do I rate MAS higher?

The first is because of the people. From the check-in counter to the cabin staff, everyone is so pleasant and nice. SIA has a nice staff, but they just don’t give you the personal feel that MAS does. SIA has a professional staff, but it’s all business with them. MAS’s staff will take time to talk with you if you are awake on a night flight or simply bored. If there is spare time for them, they will spend it getting to know some of the passengers. They are always quick to flash what looks like a genuine smile, and oftentimes they will know your name by the end of the flight. It may all be an act, but it’s a good one. It’s much like the difference between an excellent waiter and one who is just good.

The second reason I prefer it is the food. Malaysian Airlines has food that you actually want to eat. The choices are usually very different from each other, and they have the best between-meals snacks in the air. They are also very efficient about getting the food out and do so with a smile.

MAS also has great in-flight entertainment, although not quirt on par with Singapore. Every seat, even in coach has its own individual TV. You can watch a variety of programming and movies and also play Nintendo games with the controller located in your armrest. Why any airline wouldn’t make this standard on such a long flight I would never know but many "top" name airlines are without this. Before booking any ticket to Asia ask the airline if each seat in coach has its own T.V. You will want this on an 18-hour-plus flight trust me and many big name airlines don’t have it.

Singapore is a great airline and one I would recommend, but if its prices are close, I will flight Malaysia every time.

Why you may ask? Well the only reason is price. They don’t just undercut other airlines by a little, but it’s often 50% to 75% less. I have flown on one-way flights for $5, yes, that’s right, $5.

Now, when you heard that, one of two things happened, you got excited or you got scared. Well, from what I have seen, there is nothing to be scared about. I was a bit leery at first, though, and figured they had crappy planes or poor maintenance. Well, the planes themselves are modern jets and seem to be comparable to what Southwest Airlines runs in the U.S. In fact, I think they are modeled very much after Southwest. Have no fear on the maintenance side, either. GE Engine Services and Volvo are both involved in maintaining the planes.

How do they have such cheap fares? They ship a lot of freight to pay for the flights and pack people in. The people are more like the icing on the cake, as the flight costs are covered by the freight they ship. They also charge for snacks and beverages in flight and don’t allow large amounts of luggage.

The beverages and snacks aren’t expensive, though. Expect to pay about RM3 for a coke and RM6 for a sandwich. That’s expensive by Malaysian standards but cheap for tourists. Also, you don’t really need either of these, as most flights are around 1 to 2 hours. They also allow you to pack your own snacks onboard, so if costs are a problem, just do that.

There are other drawbacks besides the food. The seats are a bit small, although I am over 6-feet tall and was fine. People who are a little large in weight may have a problem, though. There have been complaints about planes being late, but I have flown with them on about 20 flights and never been more than 20 minutes late.

If you travel with tons of luggage, it could be a problem. They will let you bring it all, but they charge for luggage over a certain weight. I travel with two large bags and a backpack and have not been charged extra.

The flights also have free seating, and since Malaysians don’t line up properly, this can be a bit frustrating. If you have a large group, it can be hard to sit together.

Air Asia is right for some and not right for others. But consider that many of the drawbacks above are minimized by the short distances you are flying. If you are overweight, have to have a meal on a 2-hour flight, or have lots of luggage, then you should fly with MAS. All others should check out Air Asia and save some money.