Singapore by Accident

An October 2004 trip to Singapore by HankFontaine Best of IgoUgo

Orchard RoadMore Photos

Singapore is a wonderful city, even if it is a bit sanitized.

  • 4 reviews
  • 3 stories/tips
  • 15 photos
Orchard Road

I titled this Singapore by Accident as my main destination was Malaysia. I got an excellent package from Singapore Airlines that included round-trip airfare from LAX to Singapore, four nights hotel, breakfast daily, and two tours for only . Since this was cheaper than airfare to Malaysia, I figured I couldn’t pass it up.

I initially expected Singapore to be a bit more like its close neighbor Malaysia. But it's really more of a sanitized, pasteurized, and sterilized version of it. This may be good for some, but I love the raw feeling that you get from many other Southeast Asian cities. Don’t get me wrong - Singapore was fabulous, with lots to see and do, but compared to Kuala Lumpur or Bangkok, it felt a bit sedate. Not to mention that it is vastly more expensive.

Quick Tips:

Be sure and go down to Boat Quay and have a drink or meal by the river. Even if you aren’t a big drinker, this will help you get the feel for Singapore.

Chinatown in Singapore is simply one of the most beautiful in the world. The buildings are in great shape and wonderfully painted. The food is also just as colorful and nice. While in Chinatown, check out the Heritage Museum. This great little museum occupies an old four-story shop house and is filled with fantastic exhibits, old photos, and artifacts. They have great video presentations, and interesting people often hang out there.

The Raffles Hotel is world-famous for inventing the "Singapore Sling." Be sure and stop by and get one if you enjoy a great drink and a part of history. If you aren’t the drinking sort, then stop by for English-style high tea. The Raffles has a real elegance that you just can’t find anymore. Sipping your Singapore Sling or your high tea on the veranda will transport you back to a different time.

Best Way To Get Around:

Hands down the best way to get around is the subway. It is the most efficient subway I have ever ridden. There are stops anywhere you may want to go, and the trains and stations are all very clean. The cost is also minimal. A downside might be a lot of standing, so if you are a person that can't stand for long periods or travel up and down a series of escalators, then you might want to take a taxi. The taxi drivers seem honest, and the rates are affordable.

Copthorne King's Hotel SingaporeBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Copthorne Kings"

I found this wonderful gem in Singapore last year and was very impressed. I have stayed at other higher rated hotels in Singapore but have never had a better experience than I did at the cheaper Copthorne King’s. I picked it just based on price and availability and got lucky. I must say its one of the nicest stays I have had in a hotel anywhere. Add in the fact that it was under S$100 and you have a real winner.

Upon arrival, the bell man was right there to help with the luggage. I went right up to the front desk and had a hassle-free check-in with an excellent staff. The bell man took us to our room and showed us all the lights, TV stations, and controls and really made us feel at home. He was interested in talking, and not just for a tip it seems.

The room itself was FANTASTIC. The decorations were very up-to-date. It looked as though it must have been redecorated the week before we came. The room and bathroom were also super clean and well-maintained. We were also treated to a semi-panoramic view, as we were in a curved tower and one wall was a long curved window. It had a beautiful view of the Singapore skyline. The bed was very comfortable, which was nice, as this was the night before my grueling flight back to the US. The only drawback to the room is that it was a bit small, but not painfully so.

We went for dinner and heard they have a famous Penang buffet at their restaurant, but we got there right as it was closing. The front desk lady said that it would be no problem for them to keep it open longer for us, but I didn’t feel right about making the staff work longer hours. We decided to order á la carte, and I had an excellent grilled salmon and my wife had a noodle dish, which was also excellent. The restaurant staff was also excellent, even considering the late hour.

They also had an excellent bar with a live band. The band was pretty good, the typical Filipino band that you see in many hotels around Singapore and Malaysia. The drinks were priced well, and there was a nice mix of friendly people there.

The location is good, but I didn’t have much time to get my bearing, as I was leaving the next day. There is an MRT station close by, and it seemed pretty close to Chinatown.

If given an option, I will stay no other place in Singapore from now on.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by HankFontaine on January 26, 2005

Copthorne King's Hotel Singapore
403 Havelock Road Singapore, Singapore 169632
+65 6733-0011

Meritus Mandarin Hotel SingaporeBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Meritus Mandarin"

Lobby Bakery

I was staying here for 4 nights as part of a package from Singapore Airlines. I was actually quite excited when I had read reviews and viewed pictures of this hotel beforehand. But to be honest, I was left wanting. The hotel was adequate, or perhaps even nice, but not that nice. I got the feeling that we were put in an old section of the hotel because we were going through Singapore Airlines.

The room seemed a bit worn, not really dirty, but it just seemed like everything needed to be replaced with new items. The carpet in the hallway had a few stains in it that a hotel gets with normal wear but no actual dirt. I also felt like we were perhaps secondhand guests because we came on a package. I would have been very disappointed had we booked this room separately and been treated this way.

On the plus side, the breakfast buffet and staff were fantastic. The food variety on the buffet included everything from American bacon to char kway teow. The staff knew what we wanted to drink before we ordered by the second day. The restaurant itself was flawlessly maintained and very clean. The views from the restaurant were out to the hotel pool and quite relaxing in the morning.

The location of the hotel also couldn’t have been better. There were at least three subway stations within easy walking distance. Also, anyone who knows Singapore knows that Orchard Road is where a lot of things happen. This hotel was right in the middle of it all on Orchard.

Overall, the hotel itself is a three-star, but the restaurant is a five-star and the location is also a five-star. Be wary if you pay full price, though.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by HankFontaine on January 26, 2005

Meritus Mandarin Hotel Singapore
333 Orchard Rd. Singapore, Singapore 238867
+65 67374411

Hawker StallsBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Typical Hawker Area

Going to Singapore and not eating at a hawker stall is like going to Rome and not seeing the Colloseum. It’s just something you shouldn’t miss. Hawker stalls may offend some Western sensibilities when it comes to overall appearance, but these little gems provide the best and most authentic food in S.E. Asia.



Singapore is a bit divided by ethnicity, and the hawker stalls represent this. In Indiatown, you will find Indian food; in Chinatown, you will find Chinese food, and so on. Since most people love and can accept Chinese food, I will recommend the hawker stalls in Chinatown. They are located basically anywhere there is an open spot. You find them on sidewalks, in alleys, and in organized hawker areas. The dining is all at plastic tables and chairs, and it's nothing glamorous, but the food is delicious.



The costs are also extremely low, so expect to pay around Singapore $4 for a really good meal containing meat/vegetables and noodles or meat/vegetables and rice. This is one of the cheapest ways to eat in Singapore and can also help you stretch your travel budget. It's also great if you want to go to a destination and really experience how the locals live.



Don’t worry about the sanitation either; I have a very sensitive belly (food poisoning four times from food in the U.S. alone) but have never gotten sick from hawker food.



  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by HankFontaine on January 27, 2005

ChinatownBest of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Subway Entrance

Chinatown in Singapore is a major attraction, and it goes without saying that most tourists hit it. But while wandering around the area, be sure to go to the Chinatown Heritage Center. Now, let me preface this by saying that I am not a person who usually likes museums or recommends them, but there is something a bit different about the Heritage Center.

First of all, it’s located right on Pagoda Street, the main avenue in Chinatown. It occupies three old-style shop houses, all of which are multiple stories. They are open every weekday until 6pm and on weekends until 9pm. The cost of admission is a well-justified Singaporean $8.80. Strange price, and I haven’t figured out why they just don’t round it to $9. Perhaps $8 is a more fortuitous number.

Each floor of the house has multiple stories to tell. The exhibits are more of an immersive or hands-on type than just a simple viewing. Different sections are decorated in a period-correct manner, and you can feel as though you have stepped back in time. They don’t shy away from less glamorous subjects, either, as they cover prostitution and all the seedy parts of history. I like the fact that it’s not a glazed-over version of history.

You will see numerous old photos and magazines from Singapore’s history. One floor is dedicated to a complete reproduction of living quarters for people, and you will be amazed at the small spaces a family of 10 could live in. You will see video interviews with people who experienced some of the events firsthand and even meet interesting people in the lobby and gift shop downstairs. I actually met and talked with a man whose father took many of the photos. He had written a book about his father, and we had a rather long discussion about his father's work and Chinatown's past.

If you are into the history of a place and like a version that isn’t too glossed over, then this may be the place for you.

Boats

Taking a boat tour around Singapore can be a cheap and fun way to get your bearings.

The cheap and fun boats can take anywhere up to two hours and are great for the whole family. Expect to pay under Singapore $15 for a ride.

They will take you by all the major sites such as boat quay, the Raffles, and the Merlion statue. Singapore’s riverfront is a beautiful place and very clean. They even have boats that go through the channel, picking up floating garbage. Singapore is world-renowned for its attention to cleanliness, and this is another example of that.

The boats range from traditional-looking wooden affairs (bum boats) to glassed-in modern boats. I recommend the wooden ones; they are much cheaper, and there’s something a bit romantic about them. Kids and families are sure to have a great time. Couples may find it romantic. The nice thing is that you can pick one up or get off at several main attractions.

You can purchase tickets at Clarke Quay, Merlion Jetty, Raffles Place Jetty, and perhaps a few other locations. Don’t be afraid to bargain for a ticket if paying at the jetty. You may also check the airport upon arrival for a discount ticket. I also believe some offer a discount if you fly in on Singapore Airlines, so be sure to check for that.

Singapore AirlinesBest of IgoUgo

Story/Tip

Plane in Japan

Well, I haven’t seen many airline reviews on here, so I figured I would try to add one. I’ve flown to S.E. Asia many times and used a variety of carriers. On my last trip, I flew with Singapore Airlines again, as they had a fantastic deal coming from America. As many of you may know, Singapore Airlines has an excellent reputation; it's one of three airlines in the world with a five-star rating, and in some ways it lived up to this reputation. In others, it didn’t.

My itineraries called for a flight from Memphis to L.A. on United, and then from L.A. to Singapore on Singapore Airlines (SIA), making a short stop in Japan. I was flying coach, as most people do, and the overall experience was pretty good.

The good included the in-flight entertainment, which is second to none. Even in coach, they have movies on-demand, and each seat has its own TV. This means you have a selection of 30 or so movies that you can fast-forward, stop, and rewind at your convenience. They have everything from new releases to great classics like Blazing Saddles. There is also a variety of news and TV programming, such as CSI and Friends. There is also a controller in the armrest of each chair that acts as a remote and video-game controller. They have around 10 or 15 Nintendo games that each person can play at will. This is great for the people who may be flying with children or people who want a bit of interactive entertainment.

The plane itself was very clean and well-maintained. The seats were pretty comfortable for coach class but were hard for this tall guy to sleep in (no coach seat is great). Larger-sized people in coach class on any international flight will find it uncomfortable, I’m afraid.

The staff was very professional, well-groomed, and polite, but you felt a bit hurried, perhaps. It’s not a major issue, especially in coach, but there are airlines that do much better in this area. I have had better flight crews on Singapore airlines before, also, but no one beats Malaysia Airlines flight crews.

The food on this trip was awful. This is a strange thing, as I have flown Singapore Airlines before and found the food somewhat to my liking. It was all very bland, and the choices seemed very similar. Perhaps I got on a bad meal rotation, but I was a bit disappointed.

The plane was on time to each destination, but on the return flight, we arrived at LAX a bit late. There was another jet in our gate, and they wouldn’t let us go to another. We sat on the runway for over an hour in the plane. This wasn’t Singapore Airlines' fault, but I wound up missing my connecting flight and having an additional 12-hour layover in LAX.

Overall, it’s a good airline, although this flight wasn’t my best with them. I would still recommend them to people, but I would give higher marks to Malaysia Airlines.

If prices were the same, I would fly MAS, but if Singapore was more than $100 cheaper per person, I would fly with them.

About the Writer

HankFontaine
HankFontaine
memphis, Tennessee

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