Nagoya, a diverse and beautiful place to visit, bu

We arrived in Tokyo on Christmas day and took the Shinkansen down to Nagoya, a 366km, 1-hour, 42-minute trip with a couple of stops along the way. This was a good opportunity to see some of the countryside, albeit a quick look. If you sit on the right-hand side of the train, you get an excellent view of Mt. Fuji for about 15 minutes.

Finding somewhere to ski in Central Japan took some doing. There is ample information available in English on the web for Sapporo but very little for anywhere else. We managed to piece enough information together to get to Dynaland and had an excellent day trip.

Nagoya itself proved to be an surprise. It doesn't feature prominently in tourism guides, and yet has a remarkable amount to do and see. We visited the Nagoya Aquarium, the 'Hidden Nagoya,' and, of course, Nagoya Castle.

With only a couple of days in Tokyo, we didn't really scratch the surface. We had a day at Tokyo Disney and spent the rest of the time just wondering around.

Quick Tips:

The use of English is not widespread in Japan, particularly outside the main cities. The younger generations learn it in school, but for the most part, you will need a good phrase book. We took two--one by Lonely Planet and one by Collins Publishing--but by far, the Lonely Planet book was better.

Best Way To Get Around:

By far the quickest and easiest way to travel in Japan is by train.

A JR Rail Pass is an excellent value if you are planning to sight-see using the railway--as opposed to the subway--network. It allows unlimited travel on JR trains and buses throughout Japan for the period of the pass: 7, 14, or 30 days. You need only present the pass at the JR ticket window at your departure station to receive your onward tickets.

There are two types of rail pass;

Ordinary - for travel in the non-reserved cars

Green - for travel in the reserved cars--this pass costs more but ensures you have a seat, which is a blessing when the train is full.

You should carry your JR pass in an easily accessible place, as you will need to present it to the attendant each time you pass through the station gates. This applies at every station you use the pass at to buy tickets. You will also have to show it to the ticket inspector onboard the train.

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Restaurant - Yakitori

As we found out later, Yakitori is a style of food which comprises grilled meat on skewers; in this case, the meat was chicken.

Yakitori is located in the downtown Nagoya area, between Fushimi and Sakae stations along Hirokoji-dori as you walk towards Sakae station. On the right-hand side of the road, it is a second-floor restaurant, so keep an eye out for the white sign up high.

They have both English and Japanese menus, so ask for the English version. The Japanese version doesn't have many pictures, either, so you can't even point at the dishes. The waitress spoke some English, so between her and my phrase book, we got by.

The food was very nice, the restaurant clean, and there was a good selection of different types of Japanese dishes to choose from.

We selected Japanese salad, honey chicken wings, seafood spring roll, chicken croquette, chicken rice balls, and a traditional tofu dish that our waitress selected for us. Of course, we washed it all down with warm sake.

As with most roadside restaurants, this one is quite small and cosy. The seating area has semi-private booths that make up two tables of four. From your table, you can see the chefs working in the open kitchen.

Altogether, we had five dishes, three beers, and one large sake, which came to 5,639 yen, including taxes--not bad, really! They also accepted all credit cards.

Restaurant - Tonkatsu

This restaurant specialises in pork cutlets. We went to this restaurant located on the seventh floor of the Nagoya train station. We found a "food court" on the north end of the station on the seventh floor that had about 20 or so separate individual restaurants (so not a typical western-style food court).

The menus were only available in Japanese, but they had excellent pictures, so we were able to point to what we wanted. Each of the dishes was a combo, coming with the main dish (pork), a bowl of steamed rice, a bowl of seafood soup, and a small bowl of a unrecognised pickled vegetable (which wasn't bad).

I had a pork combo, and Sal had a mixed combo of pork, chicken, and beef. The meat is coated in a batter that is a cross between a crumbed and a tempura batter and then it is deep-fried. When eaten with a cup of the complimentary Japanese tea, it isn't very oily and is rather nice.

It is served with a big pile of raw cabbage. I thought this was a bit bland until our waitress pointed out the bottle of dressing on the table that is for the cabbage. It is hard to described the taste of the dressing, but it was very nice - a clear reddish colour and a little sweet.

It was so different and nice that Sal tried to explain to the waitress that she wanted to buy some and wanted to know what it was called. Anyway, after some backwards and forwards with the phrase book, the waitress bought out a bottle and added ¥300 to the bill. Close enough!!

Each of the combos cost between ¥900 and ¥1,500.

Located approximately a 2.5-hour drive from Nagoya, Dynaland is easily accessible for a day trip of skiing. It's not cheap, but it's not too expensive either.

It is set in the hilly areas of the Gifu prefecture, which contain several dozen smallish ski resorts. Probably best suited for beginner to intermediate level skiers, Dynaland is relatively small ski resort that has about 12 runs and a handful of lifts.

We visited in late December, which, granted, is early in the season, so only four runs were open; one beginner, two intermediate, and one expert. It had lights for when the clouds rolled in, snowmakers, and a couple of rails for the boarders.

It got busy about 12:30pm and started to thin out at around 3pm. I guess this is when people started the drive back to Nagoya or elsewhere; apparently lots of the locals do the trip for the day. I was told it gets a lot busier on weekends and public holidays.

There was by far more snowboarders than skiers, which is understandable given the younger crowd. There are two lifts that operate from the base area, a double and a triple chair, and the lines for both moved very well.

The last part of the runs that converges on the base area is very narrow and reasonably steep; in fact, it is the steepest part of the whole green run. I could see this being a real point of congestion when it gets busy - particularly with the way boarders like to sit down in the middle of the slopes for no apparent reason!!!

Getting There

We booked through our hotel. I tried several times before we left to book through their website at www.dynaland.co.jp (which is all in Japanese) or at least to find out how to get there, but all my emails went unanswered.

It cost ¥7,800 per person, which included the coach fare from Nagoya and a lift pass. The coach left from the bus terminal at the Nagoya railway station at 8am and took 3 hours each way (stopping at Takasu, which appeared to be solely for boarders), returning at 7:30pm.

We got about 4 hours of skiing, plus a break for lunch. Considering there was only one green run open, this was probably long enough.

We hired skis, boots, and poles at Dynaland for ¥4,600 per person. The staff spoke very little English, but we got by with my phrase book and lots of pointing.

This day trip had several firsts for us: first time we saw snow falling, first time we skied under lights, first time we skied while snow was falling, and the first time skiing Japan! All in all, it was a good day out and one I would recommend as a day trip.

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The East End - Shopping, Temples & Shrines

A day well-spent--and one we almost missed, save for a rainy day and a cancelled trip to Mt.Fuji--is a walking tour of Nagoya's East End.

As you travel east from Shinsakae Station, following the Hirashiyama Subway Line, the city thins out, and you find yourself in quiet residential areas set amongst tree-lined streets. We elected to begin the walk from the eastern end of our map, at Matoyama Station, walking back toward downtown Nagoya.

Our first stop was Toganji Temple, a surprisingly quiet and peaceful place amongst the hustle of the outside streets and home to Nagoya's largest sitting Buddha. Built in the 16th century, this smallish temple is set amongst perfectly manicured gardens, Indian architecture, and a pet cemetery.

Exit Motoyama Station via Exit #5, turn right and walk 100m, and it's on the left. The temple is open from 9am to 6pm.

Our next stop was Nittaiji Temple, 200m north of Kakuozan Station. This is a much larger temple, with bigger grounds and several buildings to view. The interior of the temple was similar to Osukannon and had the same calming, almost humbling, effect.

The buildings are finished in the classic Japanese style, with a five-story pagoda. The large grounds play host to an outdoor market on the 21st of every month.

Other temples in the area which we didn't visit, due to the inclement weather, are:

i.Shiroyama Hakasan Shrine - built in the 16th century
ii.Sohoji Temple - built in 1643, and which now hosts the Grand Sumo Tournament in summer

Other points of interest are: i.Higashiyama Zoo - including polar bears and elephants
ii.Botanical Gardens
iii.Sky Tower - standing 134m tall
iv.Heiwa Park - a large park complete with a large statute of Kannon (the goddess of mercy) and small lake

Our walk then continued back towards downtown Nagoya, and it's a long walk--about 3 hours--with a stop for lunch, before you reach Sakae. However, you are following the Higashiyama Subway Line, so you can always opt to take the train.

A number of temples and shrines (12 in total), which give insight into a bygone time, can be found in downtown Nagoya. Whilst they are crowded in amongst the high-rise concrete buildings, they must offer a respite from the hustle and bustle of city life to the locals while giving us a glimpse into the past and a sample of the local culture.

Located between Sakura-dori to the north, Wakamiya-Odori to the south, Fushimi-dori to the west, and Hisaya-Odori to the east, all 12 shrines can be assessed easily and make for an interesting end to the tour of "Hidden Nagoya".

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Nagoya Science Museum

This is good for kids, with lots of hands-on displays, but if you don't speak Japanese or can't read Japanese characters, it is a little difficult to work out what it's all about. On the plus side, however, it is about the only place open before 10am and admission is only ¥600.

Downtown Nagoya

This is a bustling city of contrasting cultures. Among Japanese Izakayas restaurants, you will find Starbucks, McDonald’s, and Hard Rock Cafes. Not as neon-filled as Tokyo, Nagoya is a pleasant introduction to the Japanese culture.

There is a myriad of specialty and department stores to choose from, but none of them look cheap!

The Nagoya TV Tower, built in 1954, was the first TV tower built in Japan, and at 180m high, dominates the city skyline. It has an observation balcony 100m above ground, where visitors can enjoy the spectacular view while enjoying a light meal or doing some shopping. It costs ¥750 for adults and is open 7 days a week from 10am to 9pm.

Osu Shopping Arcade

Is a colourful collection of shops selling everything from computers to traditional Japanese china.

Located just outside Osukannon Station, exit no. 2 on the Tsurumai Subway Line, the shopping arcade begins at Osukannon Temple and runs through to Banshoji Temple (one of Nagoya's oldest. Once called Kigakusan, it was built in 1538 by Oda Nobuhide, father of the famous Nobunaga).

Walking through this arcade is a sensory overload; from the rich tapestry of colourful shops, to the aromas of the numerous food outlets, and to the sounds of Japanese music, the Osu arcade will give you a real feel for the Japanese way of life.

If you’re here to shop, then there are plenty of choices: shoes, china, computers, games, bags, etc.; the list is extensive. Be advised, though, that not many of the shops, particularly the traditional types, accepted credit cards.

The day we were there, the Osukannon Temple Antique Market was in session between the Osukannon temple and the arcade. It is held on the 18th and 28th of every month. It seems to be a blend of new and second-hand goods.

If you're looking for an authentic memento of your visit to Japan, you're bound to find something here. It wasn't cheap, so knowing the phrases ikura des ka (how much is it?) and takasugimas (that's too expensive) came in very handy here.

The Osukannon Temple is definitely worth having a look at before you go into the arcade. A seemingly endless procession of Japanese file into the temple, make their offering, bow, and leave. I wasn't sure if photos were allowed, so I erred on the side of caution and didn't take any of the interior.

For more pictures and information on this location, visit my website www.shanecurrie.id.au

The Nagoya Aquarium is one of largest in Japan, comprised of two buildings with a total of five floors and dedicated to five of the world's marine environments: Japan, Australia, the tropics, the deep sea, and the Antarctic. I've have to say that this is the best aquarium I've been to, and I've been to several around the world, including Sea World San Diego.

The north building has two floors that are dedicated to dolphins and killer whales. The first floor has various informational displays, static and interactive, on the evolution and lifecycle of these magnificent mammals.

The primary attractions, though, are the underwater viewing rooms that look into the main pools. You could spend hours watching the dolphins playing. The viewing rooms are very large and set out with amphitheatre-style seating.

The second floor has a 3,000-seat stadium positioned around the main performance pool. There are several performances by the dolphins and killer whales each day, with the last show at 5pm.

The south building has three levels and houses most of the fish display tanks. These cover the waters from Japan to Antarctica, with displays ranging from penguins, complete with artificial snow falling from the roof; to tropical tanks filled with colourful reef fish like anemone fish, trigger fish, chromis, snapper, etc.; to turtles; and to Australian mangroves.

Nearly all the information presented doesn't have an English translation, but the floor map and show times are both available in English.

You reach the aquarium by taking the Meijo subway line to the very end of the Nagoyako Station. Exit the station and go straight ahead across the road to the lights and the signs - it is well-signposted.

It cost ¥2,000 per person, and they don't accept any credit cards.

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The area surrounding the castle is one of the oldest settled areas in what is modern-day Nagoya. Built in 1612, the old castle-town borders correspond to what is today known as Naka ward.

The area has traditionally been the centre of government for the city and for Aichi Prefecture in general. You will find a range of government institutions and a number of historically and architecturally significant buildings, so don't limit yourself to a castle visit alone.

History

Nagoya Castle, following the Edo and Nijo Castles, was the last great castle constructed by Ieyasu Tokugawa and is of significant historical value, as it determined the castle style of the Edo shogunate. Particularly the Hommaru Palace, a typical samurai residence with rooms such as the entrance hall, main hall, and meeting hall placed in succession, was renowned as a masterpiece of modern castle palaces built between the Azuchi-Momoyama period and the beginning of the Edo period, which ran from the mid-16th to the early 17th century.

Foundation works for the castle started in 1610. The donjons and towers were completed in 1612, and the Hommaru Palace in 1615. Originally, the Hommaru Palace was used as a residence and government office of Lord Tokugawa of the Owari Clan, but it later served as quarters for shoguns who stopped over in this area on their way to Kyoto. The most magnificent building, the Joraku Hall, where the third shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa stayed, was added in 1634.

The castle suffered major damage in May 1945, during an air raid. Most of the structures, including the main and small donjons and the Hommaru Palace, were burned down. Fortunately, however, three corner towers, three gates, the tea house, and gardens, along with most of the paintings on the sliding doors and walls in the Hommaru Palace, survived the fire. Although the donjons were rebuilt in 1959 to their original appearance, only the founding stones of the Hommaru Palace are visible today.

Things to See

The best-known items associated with castle are the golden dolphins, or kinshachci. These were also destroyed in the bombing raid but were replaced when the main donjon was rebuilt in 1959. Each weighing 88kg, they are plated in 18K gold.

The main donjon houses the museum of over five floors, displaying artifacts and screens representative of the Edo period. Most of the exhibits are shown without English translation (some have translations), but that doesn't detract from the experience--you can almost feel the history coming through the walls and floor.

Perhaps the only negative is that photography is not allowed on the main five floors; it is only allowed on the 6th-floor observation deck.

Meijo Park, which surrounds the park, is famous for its cherry trees--over 1,600. The 630-seat, traditional-style Nagoya Noh Theatre opened in April 1997 and is located across the road from the castle's main gate.

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On the negative side, you get the same huge crowds, the same long lines, and the same plethora of food and shopping outlets.

On the plus side, though, you get two Disney parks right next door to each other--Tokyo Disney and Tokyo Disney Sea--fantastic rides, superb vistas, and all the laughs and smiles that you can only get from visiting the 'Happiest Place On Earth'.

We only had one day to visit, so we elected Disney Sea over Disneyland, mainly because we've been to Anaheim and thought Tokyo Disney would be similar. Disney Sea is divided into seven themed areas:
Mediterranean Harbour - based on a Venetian-style harbour, it reminded me a lot of the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas, complete with gondola rides. The Tokyo Disney Sea Hotel Miracosta fronts onto the harbour, giving residents an excellent view of the nightly fireworks.
Mysterious Island - contains Mount Prometheus, which is the bubbling volcano that can be seen from throughout the park, and also the "20,000 Leagues Under the Sea" attraction, where you can explore the depths of the ocean aboard Captain Nemo's research submarine.
American Waterfront - the central attraction here is the S.S. Columbia, a realistic-sized steamliner containing shops and restaurants. If you ever wondered what it would be like to have dinner in a Titanic-style dining room, the S.S. Columbia Dining Room is probably as close as you can get.
Lost River Delta - an area whose theme is based on a Myiam temple. The central ride here is the "Indiana Jones Adventure: Temple of the Crystal Skull", which also had one of the longest queues. You ride in a Jeep through various caves, paths, and jungle before being chased by a big round rock--just like the movie.

These attractions were complimented with the usual array of Disney characters posing for photos, along with Looney Toons cars, trucks, and trains driving around.

At night, the park takes on a whole different atmosphere, more like a holiday resort by the waterside than a theme park in a thriving metropolis. However, the lines don't get any shorter--in part, no doubt, to the cheap after-6pm Starlight pass.

Be warned--it can be very cold in Tokyo in winter; it snowed New Years Eve, and the wind chill makes it even worse, so dress in layers.

They have a big New Years Eve party in both parks; however, only those staying in the official Disney hotels are guaranteed entry. There is a ballot for the public for tickets, which closes in September. We had initially intended to go to Disneyland for New Years; however, there is nothing on their website about the restriction on tickets, and I found out about the ballot in November; it closes in September, so we missed out.

For more pictures and information on this location, visit my website: www.shanecurrie.id.au