Our initial planned half-day hike at Fox Glacier with Alpine Guides was cancelled due to the rains the previous day. Expecting better weather at Franz Joseph since the tour there was going ahead, we booked a half-day hike at Franz Joseph instead. We were provided with raincoats, "overtrousers," hiking boots that weighed 1 kilogram each, and ice picks to help grip the ice. A pair of gloves would’ve helped as I later discovered. They drove us to the car park of the glacier and the walk through the rainforest began. It was a beautiful walk made incredibly difficult with the heavy boots. After the rainforest cleared, we came in view of the glacier, but it was another 45-minute walk over stones and the
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They drove us to the car park of the glacier and the walk through the rainforest began. It was a beautiful walk made incredibly difficult with the heavy boots. After the rainforest cleared, we came in view of the glacier, but it was another 45-minute walk over stones and the dried river bed before we were at the foot of Franz Joseph.
The glacier has been retreating for the past 15 months and it was summer, hence it did not look all that impressive from the bottom. But once we began climbing, it was more than impressive. The group of about 45 people split up into four groups, depending on our levels. Guru and I split too – he went on in the third group (the faster of the slow), and I was in the fourth and last group (the slowest of the slow).
When we had climbed a couple of steps, it started raining and was soon pouring. At one point, a tour that was descending broke some ice off the glacier and started a small ice river. It was important to keep feet straight ahead and not bend forward while climbing. These were things I just could not do. The rain was clouding my glasses, but I couldn’t see properly with naked eyes. Whatever the reason, I slipped and fell on my butt. It did not hurt too much, but I was shaken. I slipped a second time, and this time my knee hit the glacier. It was cold, the rain was pouring, and my frozen hands could not even hold the rope (there is a rope at certain sections of the hike). I looked down and totally freaked out.
When another group passed us on their descent, I opted to turn back. I was chicken, but at that moment I was alone, without Guru to encourage me, and totally miserable, hating ice, rain, and everything else. In spite of the promised awesome views at the top, I turned back. The return hike was equally bad, if not worse. By the time I reached the terminal, I was in tears, exhausted and ashamed. The glacier had defeated me.
Advertised as being possible if moderately fit, it is important to have a sense of balance and not have even slight vertigo. The guides were supposed to be knowledgeable, providing us with geographic information, but we didn’t hear anything. Guru completed the climb and wasn’t too impressed, either. I think I would’ve enjoyed Franz Joseph better looking at it from a respectful distance than attempt to climb it in pouring rain.
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