Easter Island: More than Moai

A November 2004 trip to Easter Island by WAE

Ahu Ko Te Riku Photo - Easter Island, Chile

Quote: Fulfilling a life-long dream to visit mysterious Easter Island (Rapa Nui; Isla de Pascua), I learned that the world's most isolated island has a remarkable, though sometimes tragic, history. The famous moai (stone statues) are extraordinary, but there is more to see and experience.

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Easter Island: More than Moai

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Overview

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Easter Island has many highlights, including its emblematic statues and more. The following can be seen in two days, although you will want more time to study the unique history and to savor the beauty of Rapa Nui.

Rano Raraku is an extinct volcano where most of the moai statues were quarried. Over one hundred statues in various stages of construction can be seen; its nickname is "the nursery." Wear sturdy shoes or boots to climb the trails to the top and explore the figures; while all similar, each is unique.

Ahu Akivi has seven moai, which are the only statues that face the sea. Different theories suggest that they faced the Marquesas Islands to the west, home of the original inhabitants; that they offered spiritual protection for the nearby village; or that they were part of a calendar to mark the equinoxes.

Ana Te Pahu is a series of caves that extend for hundreds of yards. The inhabitants lived underground; check out the stone beds and kitchen hearths. Outside were planted many small gardens.

The Orongo Ceremonial Village on the southwest tip of the island is perched on another volcano crater-lake. The ride or hike to the top affords rewarding views over the whole island. The village is best known for its petroglyphs, rock carvings relating to the Cult of the Birdman. From here, men scaled the cliffs and swam out to three small islands on rafts; the first to return with an unbroken tern's egg became Birdman for a year, a spiritual advisor. Visit nearby Ana Kai Tangata to view cult cave paintings.

Ahu Tongariki and its fifteen moai, destroyed by a tsunami from an earthquake in 1960 and restored by Japan in the '90s, is always impressive, especially at sunrise.

Te Pito Kura, "the navel of the world," is a stone in the shape of a half-globe. The Rapa Nui believed they were at the center of the earth. The stone itself has magnetic properties; bring a compass to test its properties.

Ahu Tahai, restored in 1969 on the water's edge, is within easy walking distance of "downtown" Hanga Roa. This is a favorite spot for taking pictures at sunset.

Anakena Beach is one of the few sandy beaches on this rocky, volcanic island. The lone Ahu Ature Huki and Ahu Nau Nau are next to the beach.

Quick Tips:

Arrive at the airport early. LAN Chile operates the only flights from Santiago to Easter Island. They are routinely overbooked, and there is a limited number of departures each week. You are likely to check in at the international desks (as the flight continues on to Papeete, Tahiti), but to depart from the domestic gates (as the first stop, Easter Island, is part of Chile).

Read up on Easter Island before visiting and explore some sites on your own and at your own pace. Guides and tours vary in price and quality. If you join a tour group, determine the maximum size and schedule of activities before going; many visit the sites at the same time.

Bring lots of small bills (U.S. and Chilean, if possible) to make ordinary transactions—and bargaining—easier. Do not rely on using the local bank or ATM for money. Credit cards are not always accepted and may have high minimums.

Best Way To Get Around:

Easter Island has some good streets, as well as unpaved roads and rocky trails. The best way to get around is with a tour guide and a 4WD vehicle. The more intrepid can rent cars, motorbikes, or bicycles; inspect everything carefully before renting, and proceed slowly. Easter Island is only 45 square miles, but any hike back into the main town of Hanga Roa after a breakdown will be long. Walking and horseback riding atop the small, but sturdy, local breed (please do not call them ponies!) are other options. Taxis are available and fairly cheap; you can arrange to have a driver drop you off and pick you up later in the day. Read Less