Paseo de Quito

Flying into Quito at night, the plane navigating between enormous Andean mountain ranges speckled with lights...the first morning, walking outside and being confronted with the somehow puzzling enormity of the mountains which backdrop the city… standing on a steep, eucalyptus-covered mountain looking down at the city below… walking on the equator...

Quick Tips:

Check your passport to see the number of days you been allotted to stay in the country. (Usually tourists receive either 30 or 60 days – its not clear to me what the Customs' rationale is for determining either). Though I indicated to Ecuadorean Customs that I would be studying there for more than two months, my passport was stamped for 60 days, and I was required to get an official government extension stamp just before (not any sooner) the 60 days were up to remain in the country, for the additional 30 days of my stay. Also, the altitude adjustment can be suprisingly demanding, even to those who are physically fit. Adjust to it patiently, and don't try to overexert yourself the first days in the city, especially if you've arrived from much lower altitudes. You might notice that you feel fatigued after a short stroll, or unusually out of breath. Drink plenty of water (bottled water, that is!)

Best Way To Get Around:

The main commercial center around Avenida Amazonas and the central historic part of the city (aka Old Town) are conducive to walking. Taxis are inexpensive, but inquire upon and/or finalize the fare before heading to your destination. There is also a reliable modern trolley system which I understand from Ecuadorean friends to be comfortable and efficient.

If you have a late nite arrival in Quito and a late afternoon flight the following day to Cuenca such as I did, this 'hotel' is probably a good bet -- its cheap, clean, and in a safe and easy location. Though it's probably a 20 minute taxi ride from the airport, it's a 5 minute downhill walk to Avenida Amazonas, which you could enjoy exploring for a few hours before a flight. I was completely awestruck when I emerged from the hotel in the morning to see the mountains in the daylight. My single room with bath was super tiny, but had a window, tv, and surprisingly roomy bathroom. It was a little noisy on a Saturday nite. In the morning, coffee and toast was provided. A small dining room is in the basement. Bottled water was supplied by the hotel, don't forget to use it for brushing your teeth.

Our Ecuadoran friends brought us to this sight especially for the phenomenal view of the city of Quito, which stretches in somewhat of a linear way between the mountain ranges. The drive there took us through some really steep and narrow streets as we climbed to the top - an interesting excursion in and of itself. La Virgen is an enormous statue of the Virgin of Quito, with a cool tiara of stars, and a weird thing with a globe and a dragon. For a few sucres, you can climb inside the statue to a balcony around the globe for an even higher and windier view. Though unfortunately I never got the full scoop on the Virgin herself, I found the view enchanting.

Presented by Ecuador's Ministry of Tourism and Metropolitan District of Quito, JACCHIGUA is a live performance of dance and music, that is as much an educational and emotional experience as it is entertainement. Jacchigua, presented by the Ballet Folclorico has been in existence for nearly a decade, and has regular performances in Quito on Wednesdays and Fridays. A Quechua word, 'jacchigua', is tied to the celebration of 'la cosecha,' meaning harvest time - an activity intimately tied to the lives of indigenous people of the Sierra. The troupe is comprised of musicians and dancers of all ages, who illustrate the history, struggles, celebrations of native groups through beautiful choreographed & traditional dance accompanied by live traditional music. Costumes, many remaining the same to the present-day dress of native groups, are spectacular. During intermission you will be able to indulge in a traditional aguardiente, thus making the second half even more powerful. This performance brought excellent closure to my three month trip in Ecuador. It was strongly recommended to me by several Ecuadorean friends -- who found it just as powerful as I did.

Okay, so Mitad del Mundo, 'The Middle of the World,' sort of epitomizes tourism, with its endless 'village' of gift shops offering disturbing numbers of unnecessary souvenirs -that is, of course, unless you're into kitsch. However, since I've never set foot on four states at Four Corners Monument in Utah (?) or visited similar geographic gimmicks, I have to confess it was a kick to walk on the Equator -- that line has forever seemed so mysterious to me. Inside the Monument itself, there is a small but informative 'Museo Etnografico,' a museum capturing the highlights of Ecuador's indigenous groups (the descriptions are all in Spanish). From the top of the Monument you can see out around the village of San Antonio, which has a landscape much drier than it seemed, and clearly less populated than nearby Quito. Also at the scene are other touristy/educational places which I did not partake in, including a model of colonial Quito, a planetarium, and solar museum.