Weekend in Chicago

Have a Ferris Bueller day! Go to Sears Tower, the Art Institute, walk through Grant Park and see Buckingham Fountain, and eat lots of pizza.

Quick Tips:

If it's less than 1 hour to closing, you can get discounts into the Art Institute (see journal).

Best Way To Get Around:

In order to cover large distances economically, we would taxi to one end of the city and walk our way back to the hotel. We did this for the Magnificent Mile and our two trips to North Beach. The trains in Chicago are also excellent. For , we both rode into downtown from Hanover Park, Illinois, and took a taxi from the train station. Considering it's a DAY to park a car at the hotel, that's a pretty good deal.

With a fabulous location across from Grant Park, the Hilton Chicago is in the tradition of grand old hotels where looks are everything and comfort is a priority. From the moment you walk in, with its white marble staircases and gold chandlers, the Hilton Chicago makes quite an impression. In the large gray marble reception area, there is an express check-in for Hilton Honors members, which makes it quick and easy, and we were able to get a room upgrade to the Honors level, where they serve continental breakfast each morning and an hor d'oeuvres reception in the afternoon.

The rooms are small (this is an old building after all) but comfortable, with all the usual amenities, including a stocked minibar and Neutrogena toiletries in the bathroom. There is a fine café on the property where we enjoyed a late-night desert, and a bar where we enjoyed a glass of wine.

The only disturbances had to do with the two events that were being held at the hotel during our stay. One was a political science convention. Imagine 500 of the most unattractive and socially uncouth people you could possibly fit into one place. These people were loud and rude and with the fashion sense of a mole. There were large groups of them standing in front of the elevators, talking, making it impossible for anyone to get on and off. The night we sat in the lounge with our wine, we left after they arrived from their dinner because they surrounded us on our sofa as if we weren't even there, spilling their drinks on us. One man even took a handful of popcorn from the bowl on our table, put his entire hand in his mouth along with the popcorn, and then put his hand back in bowl for more. Disgusting!

The other event at the hotel was actually quite cool. The hotel hosted a wedding for the daughter of the Indian Consulate to Chicago. The ballroom, which we snuck a peek of, was pulsing with Indian techno music while hundreds of fabulously dressed Indians and their friends danced around. The women were dressed in beautiful silk sarongs in the brightest colors with gold accents and headpieces. When we were leaving on Sunday, we got to see the happy couple, dressed in gold and white, get into a gold horse-drawn carriage for a trip around Chicago. Way cool. Indians know how to dress and party and were polite to boot. We passed a large group on them standing in a hallway on our way to the elevators, and they actually moved to one side and said, "Excuse us." Political science people, take notes! I highly recommend the Hilton Chicago for its luxury. However, be sure to ask what conventions/events are being held when you’re looking to stay because it will be crowded.

The shimmering silver W at the entrance lets you know: chic, modern, and hip. If you are young, urban, and rich, this is the place for you. We checked in Friday night at 9pm and the place was already hopping. A DJ played trippy techno music while groups of people enjoyed martinis on cushy sofas, and this was in the LOBBY! A waterfall took up the wall behind the front desk. Also called the Living Room, the lobby bar was packed, and everyone was in their coolest clothes (while we still had our airplane sweats on). This was nothing compared to the rooms.

The signature bed shined with a purple comforter, and the bathroom featured an open shower with a rain-forest shower head and dark tile floor to ceiling. There was a CD player with a W compilation to listen to. The rooms also have DVD players with a library of movies to choose from. The W has its own luxe line of bath products from Bliss and a fully stocked minibar and snack basket ($8 for a bottle of Boss water, $4 for orange juice or a Coke). There's even a bottle of Australian Syrah. The W has a 24-hour workout room next to the heated indoor pool. The sundeck overlooks Lake Michigan and Navy Pier. The Magnificent Mile is 4 blocks away; Oak Street Beach and the John Hancock building were a 15-minute walk. The Whiskey Sky bar is located on the 33rd floor, with fabulous views (but it’s a really small, crowded space—I'd stick with the lobby bar). The concierge helped us twice with great dinner reservations. If you have to ask the cost, you can't afford this the W ($10 rum and cokes, and rooms START at $289/night). We used up our Starwood points, so we will probably never stay in a place this cool again, but oooooh, what fun it was while it lasted.

You must have Chicago stuffed pizza. Don't bother with anything else... and by far the best is Giordano's. With locations all over Chicago and in every suburb, you can't go very far without running into one.

We happened to find a brand new location 1/2 block from the Sears Tower (south side) and we stopped in for a late lunch. Full of photos of old Chicago, the dark woodsy decor with American-Italian influences was perfect for lunch. As soon as we walked in we could smell peppers and garlic, and our stomachs growled. We had pepperoni and mushroom pizza.

They make everything fresh from scratch, so it does take awhile to get your order, but it's worth it. Along with a bottomless soda glass, Giordano's is Chicago dining at its most authentic. Giordano's is way better than Gino's East and Rosotti's. Trust us, we tried them all.

An adorable place on right off the Lakeshore bike/run path and on the beach is Oak Street Beachstro. You can't miss those large green umbrellas and palms tree (in Chicago??). Serving pub sandwiches, it's a great place to stop after a day of hanging out on the beach. Service isn't the fastest, but what's your hurry? Besides, that's what happens when this place is busy and the staff is stretched to the limit. If it's hot, get a table with an umbrella or, to keep working on your tan, ask for one of the lounge chairs that line the perimeter of the cafe and sunbathe while a server brings you fruity drinks. The nachos are excellent, with lots of guacamole. The tuna fish sandwich is a cool treat on a hot day, and they give you way too many fries. And get this, they only serve RC cola! I haven't had that since I was 8! Go for the view and the food and be patient with the service and you will enjoy Oak Street Beachstro.

We asked the concierge at the W where we could get a good steak nearby. Without hesitation he said the Capital Grille and even made reservations for us. From the W we walked only 6 blocks, just 1 block past Michigan Avenue. With our concierge connection (but more likely because of the late hour, after 9pm), we waited less than 5 minutes for our table. Instead of consulting the menu, we asked our server to tell us about the steaks. He told us everything we needed to know about the sizes, cuts, and sauces. Because he was so thorough with his knowledge, we were able to order our steaks right then. I got the filet mignon, which was the smallest steak and on the server's recommendation for a well-done steak. I requested it "butterflied." The server actually suggested I not order the filet well done (because it is so small and burns easily), but that's the way I like my beef and he didn't talk me out of it. My husband ordered the porterhouse (24 ounces of heaven) while our friends both ordered the Grille's Delmonico. We all shared a side of Sam's Mashed Potatoes and two salads.

My steak was perfection. I have such a hard time getting restaurants to actually grill my steaks well done (that means no pink anywhere!), so it was nice to have a chef who cooked it as I requested. All four of us were completely happy with our steak choices, and we ate until we could eat no more. While finishing our drinks, we chatted with the server, who, it turned out, was getting married the following weekend. He was a little frazzled by the planning, but we assured him from experience that the wedding itself always goes better than the planning. Although he had many fabulous desserts to offer, we were so full that we had to pass. After all that beef, it was time for a moonlit walk along Lakeshore Drive, a great way to end a great meal.

This is third time I've been to the Art Institute. The last time I was here, I was able to spend the whole day and take in every nook and cranny. This visit we didn't arrive until 3:45pm and didn't realize that the museum closed at 4:30pm. Not only does it close at 4:30pm, but the museum actually starts kicking people out of the exhibits at 4:15pm so they can get everyone out of the building by 4:30pm. That was okay because I only wanted to see one painting.

TRAVEL TIP: Because it was so late in the day, the ticket person asked us what we wanted to pay to get into the museum. We said $4, and we meant $4 each, for a total of $8. However, the ticket person charged us only the $4! So, if you arrive with less than an hour before closing, you can get in without paying full price. Just make an offer.

With our tickets in hand we went straight upstairs to the Impressionist Exhibit to see A Sunday on La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat, a painting most people remember from Ferris Bueller's Day Off, and the painting the museum is most known for. I absolutely love this painting, not just because of the scene, but because of the technique. The painting is comprised of hundreds of thousands of tiny dots (think of a dot-matrix printer). At 10 feet wide and 6 feet high, imagine the time and energy spent doing that by hand. We spent what little time we had viewing this painting and all the Impressionist paintings, such as Monet and Renoir, and more modern works, such as those of Picasso.

MUSEUM TIP: Do not use the flash to take photos. Light from the flash will fade the paintings. You can take photos without flash because there is plenty of light inside the museum.

Upon leaving the museum, we made many purchases in the gift shop, including a miniature replica of La Grande Jatte, a miniature Monet, and some postcards. Outside on the front steps, we were treated to a concert of young street performers who played buckets like drums and had quite a crowd of museum-goers putting money into their hats. They played until a cop car drove by and blared his siren at them, and the boys picked up their drums and ran across the street (where we saw them 5 minutes later dividing up the money). We guessed they didn't have a permit to perform for money on the street. What an afternoon; Ferris Bueller eat your heart out!

I've been to the tower several times and have been there on days with better visibility, but there's something about the Sears Tower that keeps me coming back. The views of Lake Michigan are fantastic, and no matter the visibility, you can still see Solder Field. The observation deck entrance is on the south side of the building, where you take short elevator ride to the ticket area.

After paying for your tickets ($9/person), you are then directed to a small movie theater, which shows an odd little movie of aerial views of Illinois and Chicago. It is a nice movie to look at, but it has very little to do with the Sears Tower itself.

From there you get on the elevator that takes you to the Observation Deck. The deck also has a photo history display of the tower and Chicago, which was interesting.

After taking numerous photos, we rode back down the elevator and exited into the gift shop, where there are five, count them, five coin-smashing machine: four for pennies and one for quarters. Being a collector, I spent $8 getting all 16 pennies, plus another $1.50 getting two quarters. I'd have gotten all four quarters, but I ran out of change. Strange hobby, I know, but I love it!

Crowded with people, this place is the boardwalk of the Midwest. With a gigantic Ferris wheel, cotton candy, and kitschy souvenir shops, it's a tourist and local favorite.

We enjoyed the Ferris wheel. With its slow-paced rotation, we had plenty of photos ops of the Chicago skyline, and it was quite relaxing just to sit for a while after all the walking we did.

Then we took a high-speed boat ride on Lake Michigan. We went south to the observatory and north to North Beach in only 30 minutes. The sun had just set before the boat ride, so we got to see the city all lit up. We then enjoyed hamburgers and beer from the beer garden while listening to a ‘70s cover band.

As we walked back from the pier's edge, we searched for the five penny machines that were hidden among the souvenir shops. We successfully found all five; however, I was unable to get the last three pennies because I ran out of change again. Begging the store vendors for pennies and quarters didn't get me anything either. They thought I was crazy. Packed with people and lots of things to do, Navy Pier is a must for summer fun in Chicago.

I like the Hancock observation deck a little better than the Sears Tower simply because it's closer to the water and you have fantastic views of the beaches and marinas up and down the Lake Michigan (it's all about the water). The cost is $9.75, plus a tourist fee (why can't they just give you a total that includes the tourist fee? Don't keep me guessing). The deck opens at 9am, and the earlier you get there, the shorter the line. When you're done, you can visit the Water Tower for shopping. The John Hancock building is a must-do for your Ferris Bueller day in Chicago.

The Wendella boat was docked at the Wrigley building. We walked down the stairs from Michigan Avenue while a guitar player sang at street level in front of Wrigley, his voice echoing along the dock below. Even though we had no advance knowledge of the tour schedule, we managed to arrive 15 minutes prior to departure, which was plenty of time to buy tickets and board. There was an upper deck, uncovered seating, and lower deck, covered seating, depending on your preference. We chose upper deck because it was a beautiful day. There were also restrooms and a snack bar (that served cocktails!).

Our guide was a young blonde woman who knew her architecture, but her jokes were older than she was and completely unnecessary. She was pleasant enough without reciting the corny jokes.

The tour started with Chicago's newest building, right next to the dock, a building so new it's still under construction - the Trump Tower Chicago (the one being managed by that "Apprentice" guy the woman next to me whispered). It was being built on the former site of the Sun-Times newspaper offices. The Sun-Times had renovated and moved to another building just down river, which oddly enough had a Holiday Inn perched on top of it. The tour started on the Upper River, which the tour guide told us had become the hot new condo district in downtown Chicago. Turn-of-the-century warehouses had been turned into luxury condos and several new high-rise condos had been built, many with waiting lists of people to move in. The new buildings on this side of the river were less than 3 years old. The south side of the river was the business side. Boeing, the US Post Office, and Sears Tower dominate this part of the tour. As the boat traveled back toward the dock, it continued to the canal that separated it from Lake Michigan. (Did you know that the Chicago River flowed backward? Take the tour and find out why, unless you're from St. Louis, then you don't want to know.) From here the tour wound up with information on the Lakeshore Towers, where all the celebrities in Chicago live. The tour takes about an hour and is a wonderful and educational way to spend the afternoon. Now, I know nothing about architecture, but I do know a good-looking building when I see one and Chicago has some of the best. I would highly recommend taking the tour on a sunny day to catch the reflections of the north buildings on the beautiful curves and glass of the 333 Wacker Dr. Building. Exquisite!

"It's a sexy little sport on a tiny, little court. It's the AVP."

The Assocation of Volleyball Professional had their Labor Day tournament in Chicago at famous North Beach. What a great place to watch volleyball! With Lake Michigan on one side and the fabulous Chicago skyline on the other, we were treated with great volleyball plays in between.

This tournament was the first appearance since winning a gold medal at the Olympics for Misty May and Kerry Walsh, on the top women's team in the sport. Splurging on reserved tickets ($80 each for a 2-day pass), we had great seats in the grandstand, and our reserve passes allowed us to go places general admission people couldn't. We also got lunch both days with our passes.

The area used for the tournament was fenced off, so you need tickets to get in, but a lot of the earlier matches were held on small courts without bleachers, so you could wander from court to court and see the players close up. Also, with so many other matches going on Saturday, we had plenty of room in the grandstand court to see the more famous players.

On Sunday the semi-finals and finals of both men's and women's matches were played. We played a serving game where my husband won a Sirius radio and free service for 6 months - pretty cool! We tried to get player autographs, but they were only allowed to give them for 15 minutes and each time I just missed out getting them, but I did get to shake Kerry Walsh's hand while she was warming up for a match.

The women's final was broadcast live on NBC, and the crowd and the atmosphere were fantastic. Chris "Geeter" McGee was the MC, and he was on fire as he called the match. He got the fans to do the wave in both fast and slow motion, which was hilarious to watch. It was just a great day to sit in the sun and watch superb volleyball, and we hope to go back again next year.

After watching volleyball for 2 days, my husband and I decided to play some volleyball at incredible North Beach. The volleyball went on for miles!

To play, you need to get a net and some lines from the various rec centers along the beach (the main one is at the food court). You give them your driver's license to get the equipment, and you get your license back when you return the equipment.

We walked up and down the beach until we found a group of players that were about our level and would let us play. We managed to get two games with a team that was pretty good. We split. Not bad considering we hadn't played in sand in a long time. We then washed off the sand in Lake Michigan.

After playing, we strolled along the shore, which was packed with families and couples enjoying a day at the beach before summer was over. We followed the shore down to Oak Beach before heading back to the hotel. The path was filled with joggers and bike riders and others just sitting around. It's amazing to be in such a big city with such a beautiful beach at its front doorstep. North Beach is one of the things that make Chicago so special.