Happy in Halifax

Halifax has always been an important shipping and defense port due to its strategic location on the Atlantic. From the 18th century Citadel fortress and 19th century privateers warehouses to modern tourist attractions, the waterfront has been vital to Halifax’s prosperity.

The renovated warehouses along the harbour are part of the Historic Properties and house interesting shops and restaurants. The waterfront boardwalk runs from the new Casino to the cruise ship terminal near Pier 21. The Old Town Clock, another landmark, was donated to the city by Prince Edward in the early 1800s.

Halifax is called "The City of Trees" and this is reflected in the many parks throughout the city. My favourite is The Halifax Public Gardens, one of the oldest in Canada. It’s a wonderful place to relax after heavy duty shopping along Spring Garden Road. Sir Sandford Fleming Park has a more natural setting with trails and views of sailboats on the Northwest Arm.

A ferry ride across the Halifax Harbour to Dartmouth is another relaxing break and the Halifax skyline is shown to advantage from Darthmouth’s waterfront.

Although touristy, Peggy’s Cove, a short distance away by car, is one of the prettiest fishing villages around.

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Parking along the waterfront is hard to find in the summer. The best bet is to take a taxi downtown and then walk since most of the sights are close together.

This hotel was built in 1920 and the lobby still retains much of the elgance from this era. For many years, it was THE hotel in Halifax, partly because of its location across from the Halifax Public Gardens. A stay at the Lord Nelson was not complete without a stroll through the Victorian gardens across the street. Nowadays, the tranquility of the Gardens is offset with the hustle and bustle of the many shops and restaurants along nearby Spring Garden Road.

The rooms have been recently remodelled and although they are a bit small, they provide all the usual comforts and amenities. The suites have a small kitchen with microwave and small fridge.

Inside the hotel, the large Victory Arms pub offers English pub grub, salads, burgers, etc. and is very popular with visitors and residents alike.

This lively, upbeat restaurant is best known for its steaks but also features pasta, chicken, seafood and ribs. The peppercorn New York steak is good as is the Prime Rib with red wine au jus or the chicken fajitas served on a sizzling platter with warm flour tortillas. There is a good selection of appetizers and I'd recommend the crab, parmesan & spinach dip served warm with tortilla chips. Service is friendly and attentive.

This star shaped, stone fortress sits on a hill in the middle of the city and provides great views of the city and across the basin to Dartmouth. It was built in the mid 1800s and now features costumed interpreters that re enact daily life at the Citadel circa 1869. You can watch arms drills, bayonet exercises and firing demonstrations or watch the "soldiers' wives" as they go about their daily chores. Visit the soldiers' barracks, guardrooms and schoolroom where children are invited to sit in on the lessons. There is an audio visual presentation on the history of Halifax as well as an Army Museum. The noon gun is fired daily and can be heard throughout the city.

Yes, this small fishing village (now turned tourist haunt) can be crowded with visitors from all over but if you get there early in the morning it's quiet and you can enjoy the scenery. The lighthouse sits on rock boulders right at the water's edge and during storms, the spray can cover the lighthouse which makes for a dramatic photo. In the summer, there is a tiny post office inside and you can buy stamps featuring the lighthouse. Near the entrance to the village is a modern carving in a granite boulder that depicts the history of the Cove. There are also restaurants and little shops but you can find the same souvenirs for less in Halifax. Peggy's Cove is about 25 miles west of Halifax and makes a pleasant side trip. There are many tour buses that include it in their itinerary but I'd highly recommend renting a car and doing the trip on your own - that way you can stop at will along the route.

One of the first public gardens in Canada, it was officially opened in 1875 and was modelled after St. James Park in London. British influence is reflected in the Victorian era bandstand as well as the statues throughout the park, including Sir Walter Scott and Scottish poet Robbie Burns. The large oak tree just inside the Spring Garden entrance was planted in 1939 by King George.

The giant wrought iron gates at the Spring Garden Road entrance were shipped from Scotland and installed in 1907. Inside this main entrance a plaque describes the garden’s history.

The bandstand was built in 1887 to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. At one time, military bands used to serenade visitors to the gardens. Now the bandstand is only used on special occasions. We lucked out during our last visit and got to enjoy the music of a piper, complete with kilt and full bagpipes - I think he was part of a bus tour that was visiting the park.

There is a small lake that is home to ducks, swans and lots of pigeons. They are very used to visitors and are quick to hover around anyone who they think might have some food. Throughout the park, statues and fountains provide a centre point for the multitude of colourful trees and flowers. In the summer, there is a concession stand that sells drinks and light snacks.

This is a wonderful place to come to get away from the noise and traffic congestion.