Days Ashore in the Med. Spain, Morrocco, & Gibraltar Part Two

The Grande Mosque Hassan Two towers over the northwestern part of this city. The opening celebrated the 60th birthday of King Hassan in 1993. He conceived the idea of a great mosque symbolizing the faith of Islam in Africa. Construction began in 1980 and took 13 years to complete. Thousands of men worked shifts in order to speed up completion, and no expense seems to have been spared. The expenditure was borne by public subscription at cost of 80 million dollars. This extraordinary building is a credit to Moroccan craftsmanship, the French architect Michael Pinseau, and Grossi & Spiel, the contractors.

Sitting upon 20 acres fronting the Atlantic Ocean, this grand edifice is impressive. Despite its enormous price tag, all Moroccans are rightly proud of this landmark. We walked along Ave Rachid, and from afar, the green and blue minaret rises into the blue sky.

The minaret is said to be the tallest in the world, and it is the size of a 70-storied building. Inside the minaret, an elevator whisks the muezzin to the top for prayer call.

As we walked along the vast esplanade, it was easy to believe that it holds 80,000 people for outdoor worship. Exquisite and intricate Islamic art adorns the doors, and gorgeous mosaics decorate the ablutions fountains around the mosque. The impressive Moorish doorways are reminiscent of those in the Alhambra at Granada.

Unfortunately, we were too late to visit the interior, as the last tour was at 2pm and we just missed it. Visiting hours are from 9 to10am and11am to 2pm. However, we enjoyed wandering around its vast marbled courtyard and watching the Atlantic waves dash against the outside of the rear ablutions rooms. Part of the mosque is built out over the water. King Hassan ordered this, as the throne of god is supposed to be built "upon the water." Other modern touches are a retractable roof and a laser light that points to Mecca.

We wandered along the shore-watching children climbing on the rocks around the tidal pools. Further along, young men were swimming and diving from the rocks abutting the edges of the mosque. The beach area is totally rock and shale and has a very bad smell. As we continued south to the port, we passed several tin-type shacks and crumbling buildings. People were crowding around a communal tap. Some filled buckets, and one man had removed his shirt and was scrubbing his body.

The area was smelly and dirty, and I could not help contrast their living conditions to the space and wealth of the mosque.

Cost of admission is 10€ per person.

Almeria is known as one of the hottest areas in Spain and for having the most days of sunshine. It has a rugged lunar landscape with desert dunes. A must-see is the Alcazabar, the Arab fortress built in the 8th century. It is the largest Moorish Castle in Andalusia. Originally built by Caliph Abdu’r Rahman , it covers the entire hillside behind the city.

It was difficult finding the entrance because we walked through the modern section of the town first. From the cathedral, turn right on Calle amanzor and then left at the top. Access is via steep cobblestone terraces and steps. As you enter, they will give you a map; follow the suggested route. There are three sections, and it will be necessary to use your imagination, because most of the compounds are gardens and excavated areas.

The first section was the military camp. Water was supplied to the complex by a water wheel, with an underground chamber for collecting and storing water. This can still be seen today. We enjoyed the landscaped garden, with its pomegranate trees, rock flowers, and cacti. The gentle trickle of water flowing from fountains and through the garden was very soothing. Follow the ramparts that lead to the wall of the watch. On the wall stands a bell tower. Its bell, known as St Mary the Great {founded in 1763}, was used to warn of pirate incursions, later utilized to indicate turn-taking for watering the arid plain.

From here, an impressive curtain wall stretches away to the northeast. Dipping into and spanning the valley, it then snakes up a hillside to San Christobel, another tower topped with St Christopher’s white statue. This fortification was ordered by King Jayran around 1014 as an addition to the cities defenses.

The second section held the palace, bathhouses, and servants’ quarters. There are remains of water mills and a mudjar-style shrine built by catholic kings over the mosque. The kings ordered that a castle be built there, and they destroyed the palace area when the order wasn’t followed. There is extensive archaeological works ongoing in this compound.

The third section: The Catholic area is accessed by way of a drawbridge over a moat protected by three semicircular towers. After the re-conquest of Almeria, the catholic kings ordered a castle be built in this section, the highest spot in Almeria. It would have been seen for miles. Only the tower of homage remains. You can enjoy panoramic views of the town and coastline from the ramparts.

Open November to March, Thursday to Sunday 9am to 6:30pm
April to October, Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 8:30pm
Admission is 1.50€.
http:/www_junta_andalucia.es/cultura
Tourist office - Calle Hermans Machabo {in the Ministry’s building}, Phone: 23858, extremely helpful staff

The landscape of Almeria is fascinating. For the most part, it is a semi-desert comprised of barren mountain slopes and dried-up riverbeds. Many "spaghetti" westerns were made around here, such as Indiana Jones,Fistful of Dollars, and part of Lawrence of Arabia.

It is an easy town to explore and is divided into old and new sections. The old part is distinctly Moorish, with steep, narrow haphazardly placed streets. La Medina is the oldest part of the city and contains most of the historic sites.

Some of the attractions, apart from the Alcazaba, are: The Niche of the Mirhab in the 12th-century church of San Juan, just off Calle de al Medina, and the Arab Wells of Jarain {11th century}. The wells supplied public water to the city, and the three remaining storage areas, with half-barrel vaulted brick ceilings, are impressive. They are located at Calle Antonio Vico.

The cathedral is impressive, having a fortress-like structure, almost like a walled castle. It was constructed over a mosque around the 14th century. An earthquake destroyed the first church in the early 1500s, thus the present building dates from 1524-1543. Because they changed architects, it is a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The interior is well preserved, with three Gothic naves and four choir stalls.

The choir stalls are stunning; I thought them to be the best part of the interior. The main chapel, a close runner-up, displays three architectural styles. The dome is Gothic, the arcade is Renaissance, and the altarpiece is baroque. The shrine and pulpit made of marble are of the neoclassical style. There are many truly beautiful works of secular art by various Spanish artists, including Murillo and Cano. Photography is allowed, except for the artwork.

Visiting hours: Monday-Friday 10am-5pm, Saturday 10am-1pm. Entrance is 2€ (1.50€ for students).

Tree-lined streets, fountains, and wide squares characterize the newer part of town. The Avenida del Generalissimo is the main upscale shopping area. To the right of the port entrance is the best part of the beach. We walked up after we had explored the old town. The beach is of a fine tan sand. A broad esplanade running alongside it is filled with cafés and restaurants. We walked past a middle-aged lady who was in the midst of changing from her swimsuit. She was standing as naked as a jaybird right on the public walkway.

Further down, we saw a man with a leg missing perched on the wall changing into shorts. Nudity seems to be the norm on this part of the beach. We sat at one of the café tables and watched the lively scene. I think Almeria has something to offer all kinds of travelers, with its history, shopping and sun.

The tourist office is located next to the cathedral. There is also one at Ave Federico Garcia Lorco {the avenue directly facing the port}.

Cadiz: It is a typically Andalusian city with a Moorish atmosphere. We were delighted to find a pleasant walkable city with a maze of narrow streets and white buildings. A must see is the 18th-century Baroque cathedral.

It is also one of the world’s oldest cities, one of the easiest to explore, and one of the hardest to forget. The view from the ship as it approaches the port is picturesque, with palm-fringed roads and snowy buildings, an unexpectedly delightful surprise

The city seems to rise as if it were an island at the end of a long neck of sand: its nickname was "dish of silver," referring to its beach and its many white buildings. The startling whiteness alongside the cathedral’s golden dome and old city walls are an artist’s dream. Do take a boat excursion, if only to see Cadiz from the water.

We started out from the ship following a broad red line. According to excursion staff, it is the official walking route of Cadiz. Well, we did follow it, but it ended at the port gates. This sleepy town was just awakening - we always seem to reach ports before the shops open, but that is a plus because it is quiet and it is easier to get our bearings. So giving up the red line route, we began our own tour. The closest plaza to the port is Plaza Espana. It is here that you will find the monument to Cortez and a carved relief monument depicting the signing of Spain’s first constitution. The beautiful square was almost deserted, which gave us time to admire the pastel buildings surrounding the area. A few older men were hunched together in groups, filling the air with the strong smell of tobacco, and a few bicycle riders peddled along at an easy pace.

A short stroll through the incredibly narrow streets brought us to another appealing square, the Plaza Mina, lined with charming colonial-style buildings. The Fine Arts and Archeological Museum is located here. According to our information from the ship, this museum is the best in Cadiz, with excellent collections of Phoenician artifacts and several galleries of paintings and sculpture by Spanish artists. (Open Tuesday-Saturday, 9:30-2pm. There is a 3€ admission.)

The early morning sun was hot, and we were grateful for the soft breeze that wafted down the labyrinth of alleys. Cadiz has the reputation of being a very windy city, but we experienced nothing stronger than a gentle coolant. Passing by interesting stores that displayed exquisite leather (good prices), we wound our way past Moorish houses and small bars and cafés redolent with the aromas of coffee and fresh rolls.

Plaza San Antonio, yet another delightful square, is dominated by the striking twin turreted church of San Antonio, its facade the color of pale pink candy floss. The cobbled square is noted too for houses that feature lookout towers. These towers were common in old Cadiz; ships owners added them to observe their ships in port. Inside the church we joined in the service. I loved the cadence of the Spanish mass and adding my prayers to that of the community. The morning service was well attended, as seems to be the case in Europe. The congregation was a mixture of ages: elegantly dressed women and men perhaps going off to the office, old women clad head to toe in black and laden with rosaries, and young moms with squirming children.

Hunger pangs were starting, so we headed to Cathedral Square. On the way, we stopped to admire the historical church of San Filipe Neri. Its Baroque facade is covered in plaques from around the world. It was in this church that Spain’s first democratic constitution was signed in 1912. Opening hours are 08:30 - 10am and 7:30- 10:00pm. Admission is 3€. Unfortunately, it was closed. The Historical Museum is close by this square and is a must-see for its scale model of old Cadiz.

We called in at the beautiful and grand post office to mail postcards. The office is located on the corner of Topete Square (also known as Plaza de Flores) Kiosks of flowers give the square its name, and a lovely fountain graces the center. There are cafés and shops, and the market is just around the corner.

My feet and stomach were, by this time, protesting loudly, so we stopped at one of the cafés for a snack and much needed cuppa. While we ate, we sat in the lovely square and people-watched. There is an Internet place on the left-hand side of the street facing the fountain (fast speed, 2€ per hour).

Cathedral Square is more of a rectangle than a square. We came upon it through narrow streets and under an intriguing archway. It is difficult to get a good photo of the cathedral because of the narrow streets; you can’t get back far enough to take a decent shot, so I had to buy a postcard. The present cathedral was built to replace the old one. Construction began in 1728 and wasn’t completed until 1838. Consequently, architectural styles are a mixture of neoclassical and Baroque. Green nets covered part of the facade, no doubt to protect people from falling plaster.

Inside are several chapels and gorgeous statues. Also worth seeing are the ornately carved pews of ebony, mahogany, and cedar woods. The crypts are a surprise. You descend steep stone stairways to find at the bottom a central vault, whose ceiling is astonishing. It is constructed of slate-colored oyster stone that was brought up from the seabed. Side niches hold the coffins of bishops and that of the famous Spanish composer Manuele de Falla. Crypt and Museum entry fee is 3€. We paid an extra 1.50€ to climb the adjacent bell tower. It was a steep 10-minute climb; if you have knee troubles, skip it. Thick ropes along the left wall acted as handrails, but they are useless when descending. Thick honey-colored walls and beautiful hexagon windows set in intermittent niches illuminated the narrow passages in a warm caramel glow. The climb was worth the stunning view over Cadiz, but I kept an eye on my watch, as we were directly beneath the huge cast-iron bells.

As we meandered our way back to the ship, we walked along the waterfront and saw the fishermen hunched over their rods, their hands the color of baked earth. We left with lovely memories of this small but charming city.

Gibraltar is located on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula. Overlooking the strait of Gibraltar, it is linked to the Spanish mainland by a narrow isthmus.

This ancient "rock" attracts thousands of British ex-pats living in Spain. They go to stock up on all the English goodies they just cannot live without. Gibraltar has been British since 1704, but long before then, it was home to ancient civilizations. The Arabs and the Spanish, whose influences are evident in some of its buildings, have conquered it, but at the beginning of the 18th century, it fell to a combined Anglo-Dutch force. The treaty of Utrecht ceded it to Britain. Spain continues to protest that ruling and the age-old struggles continue.

This is our second visit to Gibraltar. The last time we were here, we took the cable car tour; it is one of the best ways to experience Gibraltar. The full tour includes a visit to St. Michaels cave and the Apes Den and includes a pocket Multimedia Tour (a hand-held computer that provides information and points out sites of interest). The views from the top are not to be missed. You will find the cable car base station at the end of Main Street, just through the city gates.

Open daily from 9:30am until the last car is down at 5.45pm; it costs £7 for visits to the top and Apes Den and £14 per person for the whole tour.

Today we plan to catch a bus to Europa Point, which marks the end of the European continent. Starting our walk from Casement Square (a 10-minute slow walk from our ship), we notice that the town is already awake. This large pedestrian plaza was once the parade ground for garrison soldiers. Today cafés, restaurants, and shops line its square, and the smell of bacon and eggs fill the air around us.

The sight of red mailboxes and familiar brand-named stores also heightens the sense of being in Britain. Marks & Spencer’s and Mother Care are on the left as we wander up Main Street. Interspersed with these familiar names is a fascinating selection of smaller shops selling everything from Chinese silks to designer jeans. It is an Aladdin’s cave of choice. Exquisite crystal and jewelry. Perfume leather and single-malt whisky. I get a little sidetracked and find a special treasure, but I am not here to shop. It would be easy to spend days exploring these shops in terms of buying power.

Contemplating our street map outside the Clipper pub in Irish town, we take a seat and order a coffee. "Here you are luv," says the smiling waitress in a thick Liverpool accent, and we hear the broadcast of a British quiz Show on sky TV, but the surrounding buildings and palms remind me that I am not in the UK. There are some quality buildings here, and we watch as a tradesman works his magic on the facade of newly renovated buildings. Lovely Georgian architecture is receiving remodeled cornices. Many of these balconied buildings and forest green shuttered houses lining the streets and alleyways were built by the Portuguese and Genoese. They vie now for space with cars that are crammed into the smallest of openings.

As we approach a beautiful malt-colored church, we note a heavy police presence. The annual red mass has just ended at the Cathedral of St. Mary The Crowned. All the legal eagles of Gibraltar emerge in powdered wigs and robes. The cathedral is built on the site of what used to be a mosque. In 1462 King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella decreed it to be a church. Their coat of arms remains in the courtyard. Just across the street is the Kings Chapel. A small sign on the sidewalk invites visits, so we go in. This Anglican chapel (1480) has many memorials and adornments around the walls and was used as the force’s church. It is a beautiful and peaceful place, with stained glass windows and gleaming walnut pews (free admission).

We caught the bus just outside the Queens hotel near Trafalgar cemetery. WE took the number three blue line. We paid the driver. It was a 2.50€ per person return. A daily pass costs 3€, and buses run every 30 minutes. It was a 10-minute drive up to the point, and we sat on the right side of the bus for the best view. Europa point at the south end of Europa road marks the end of the European continent. The lighthouse there is the only one regulated by Trinity house outside the UK and dates back to 1841.

Prior to the lighthouse, the Chapel of our Lady Of Europe was the original light source. A light was kept burning in the tower above the chapel, and it is Gibraltar’s national shrine. Although pirates plundered the shrine, the 15th-century statue of the Virgin and child is still venerated to this day. Also, a museum there depicts its long history. To reach the shrine from the lighthouse, walk to the left of the last shop in Europe and continue up past the houses; the shrine is a 5-minute walk on the left. Unfortunately, it was closed for painting when we visited. Also at the point is a new mosque that was built in 1997. It is called Ibrahim-Al- Ibrahim and was paid for by King Fahad-al Saud.

It is open to non-Muslims outside of prayer times, but it was closed when we were there. It is a very striking building and can be seen for miles from the ocean.

At Europa point, we joined a group in a mini-cab that was going to view O Hara’s battery. We spoke with a couple who offered to share their cab with us. We had intended to walk, but it was a bit too far. The battery is located at the highest point of the cliff. This gun emplacement was capable of firing artillery shells from Europe into Africa, but it has never been fired in anger. The views of Europe and over to Africa are spectacular. Two landmasses meet. The limestone whiteness of the cliffs of Gibraltar high-five the serrated inky crest of the Moroccan shore. Greeks and Romans called these peaks The Pillars of Hercules and thought them to be the end of the known world. As we stand drinking in the view, another mini-bus draws up. A family of five emerges, including two boys and a girl of around 15. I hear the mother bark at the girl, " Try to at least look as if you are enjoying this Joanne. It cost a lot, and they are the pillars of bleeding Hercules you know." Joanne stares impassively ahead, "I am, it’s great get off my back." She’s doing her best, but I sense she would rather be anywhere but here. A quick photo, and they all disappear into the van, as they have seen the "Pillars Of Bleedin Hercules."

The taxi takes us back down to Main Street (3€ per couple). We wander down main street and find a seat in a café on casement square. A nice cup of English tea is just the ticket, but my husband plumps for a pint of British beer. Gibraltar is a fascinating blend of cultures that have all left their stamp on the town. The result is that it can offer the visitor something for everyone ranging, from its museum of archeological treasures to exciting shopping and a wealth of scenery.

Tourist information centers can be found in Casemates Square (near the museum) and at the coach park stop.

Taxis are plentiful; most wait near the Trafalgar cemetery at the end of main street. The cost for a taxi tour, depending on the amount of people, is around £20 per person.
Buses run on most routes, but they do not go to the top of the rock. A daily ticket costs €3.

Casablanca: {Arabic name Daru-I- Bayda} Morocco’s largest city is unlike the sleepy colonial outpost portrayed inCasablanca. It is a brash, busy metropolis

After the Phoenicians, the Berbers were its first inhabitants; they were there long before the Arabs. The Romans, Portuguese, Spanish, and French all had influence, but in the present day, the vestige of French rule is most apparent. They occupied Casablanca from 1907 and built a city of wide boulevards and white buildings. The French architect, Henri Prost, planned the new city; fortunately, he ignored the medina.

Walking from the Port.

We knew walking through the port would be a running the gauntlet operation. Sure enough, we were inundated."You need Taxi?" was repeated frequently, along with, "You need guide?" However, we managed to ignore all offers, and after 10 minutes, found ourselves at the gates of the port. The Ave Houphant Boigney leads from the gates right into the Place Des Unis Nations and past the Medina. You can explore this port alone if you so desire and if you have the stamina.

We amble on. Scattered around the sidewalks are boxes of fresh fish. Hoards of milling young and old men pile the fish on carts and stack them in open crates upon the sidewalks. Cars, buses, and gas-spewing mopeds share the road with bicycles and handcarts. Women of indeterminate age plod along carrying heavy bags. Some seem to be wearing all the clothes they own, bent over under the weight of wrapped and rewrapped heavy woolen garments. It is a confusion of the medieval and modern - business suits and veils, Djellabas and Levis, and T-shirts and Fezes’.

Plunging into the crowd, trying to look in control while inwardly feeling like characters in a play whose plot we don’t understand, we half expect Peter Lorrie to pop out of a doorway. No Peter Lorrie, only chickens. They wander in and out of stores at will, and yes, in and out of traffic. Suddenly, a skinny fellow with a wispy beard dances in front of us. He is about 25, with doe-brown eyes and looks like he’s been sleeping rough for eons. "You must be careful here my good friends. Here are many bad people who will try to be your guide. You must not go with them; if you like, I will show you my city." He is very good at this and persistent. "What are your names my friends? Come with me I will show you the Medina, a very bad place if you go with no guide" We totally ignore him. "You come on ship, must be very rich. I very, very poor. You give me money." By this time he is no longer friendly. I take a whistle that I keep tucked into my top and raise it to my lips. Our "friend" takes off quicker than Jack Flash and we continue.

In The Medina: We follow the crumbly toffee-colored walls of the Medina and enter through the main portal at Place Mohammed {Right side of Unis Nation Square.}

Stalls filled with linens, T-shirts, carpets, and touristy souvenirs are to be found just inside this entrance. We meander along. Men push and steer rubber-wheeled handcarts filled with fish and produce. A boy with withered arms asks for money, and we give him some. A man passes by. He has a broad plank upon his head that is filled with loaves of fresh bread and pitas. Shouts from stallholders add to the din; they offer us football shirts, scarves, shoes, leather purses, T-shirts, and leather ottomans. One glance is enough for pursuit. This cacophony of sound includes a mixture of Arabic music; cries of vendors and squawking livestock adds to this alien scene.

A boy of around 12 sits stitching a very fine djellaba, head bent. He agrees to a photo, but he doesn’t glance our way again. We move through a warren of passageways. Women seem to form the majority of the beggars, moving in and out of the throng, sleeping babies over their shoulders, soulful souls with palms outstretched.

Passing by stalls now filled with fresh cheeses, bundles of mint, and pomegranates, we wander around in the north end of the souk, as the aroma of sewers and the acidic stench of offal assail our nostrils. We are in the quarter where livestock is sold. We see chickens in large wooden crates. A veiled lady points, and a chicken is taken out and weighed. She nods and the chicken is handed to a man with a very large machete. We leave quickly and find ourselves in a narrow street where a pungent odor of uric acid and fecal waste overwhelms us. We hear crunching sounds beneath our feet; we glance down and find that we are walking on a sea of dead cockroaches. Ugh {thank god I didn’t wear sandals}. With flies buzzing around us, walking on cockroaches, we end this Dantesque scene by fleeing through the nearest exit.

Place De Nations

Ultra-modern buildings surround this main square. The Hyatt Regency Hotel dominates here. Crazily dressed water-sellers provide water or a photo opportunity {for a fee}. We take a picture and give him 1€. His smile vanishes - he wants more, but we say no. We pop into the Hyatt for much needed rest and refreshment. I feel grimy after the souk and take advantage of the washing facilities in the bathroom. We are served a snack of coffee and cookies on a beautiful brass table in the lobby {$6}. The famous Rick’s Bar is also located here. It has a sign that saysBar Casablanca, but we content ourselves people-watching. Well-heeled clients pull up to the door in Mercedes and BMWs and others mill around the huge lobby. Armani seems to be the choice of the males. Cost per night here is around €350.

A walk back to the ship

We follow the Ave Hassan past dirty white buildings and take note of the French influence in the buildings here. Shuttered doors and iron balconies adorn these gleaming white well-kept homes and businesses. We pass by the Parc de Ligue Arab.

This is a large green square with many fountains, which are illuminated at night. It is thronged with people. Some are seated on the grass having a picnic lunch; most of the women are heavily veiled. We turn right on Ave Rachid and find our way further down to the Cathedral de Sacre Coeur. It is no longer a cathedral. Presently, it is being used for various venues, and men are dismantling what looks to have been an art exhibition. The interior is filled with light from stunning stained-glass windows, all that is left of this church. The walls are all white and bare; despite the lovely windows, the building is dead and cold {free admission}.

The smart neighborhood gives way to sprawling concrete slums. There are satellite dishes perched on the roofs, but walls are barely standing. Many of the buildings are in disrepair and some are crumbling. People wash themselves and their clothing around low stone basins. This city seems to be one in which there is a co-existence of wealth and extreme poverty, but we walked its neighborhoods with no sense of untoward hostility or danger. We found courteous and friendly interactions when seeking direction.

We finish this tour by a walk along the beach area. The beach is mostly rock and shale, and dominating the area is the great Hassan 2 Mosque. Continuing right along the coast, we return to the port area where taxi touts once again pester us, but we walk in without a problem. This is not a city I would return to, but I am glad we had the opportunity to see it. It is certainly lively and different.

Ibiza: Located between Spain and North Africa is one of the Balearic Islands. Its very location made it a target for many invaders. The Carthaginians founded it over 2,000 years ago. Romans and Moors occupied the island; their imprints are visible today. By the 13th century, Ibiza was under the Spanish influence as part of the kingdom of Mallorca. Each of the Balearic Islands has their own distinct character, but all of them have stunning scenery. The locals fiercely champion the local dialect, Eivissence, as opposed to the official Catalan, but English is widely spoken in the cafés and shops. Ibiza has gained the reputation of being "the" party place for young people and is very popular with Europeans, but I believe they go to the San Antonio area. The old port, with multi-storied housing, leads to the upper town. Narrow cobbled streets twist upwards through a clutch of venerable casas to the cathedral.

We left the ship and walked first along the marina, admiring some of the large yachts moored there. As we gazed along the water’s edge, we could see shoals of brilliantly colored fish. Dark blue and purple in color, they seemed like a blue carpet spread along the waters edge - brilliant. Alongside the cruise ship, though, we noticed clumps of grayish white blobs that looked to be jelly fish, so I don’t think I would want to swim around there.

The lower city is known as Ciudad Baja and the high part of the town that holds the castle and historic monuments is called D’ Alt Vila. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and so we make our way towards the gates of the old city. On the way, we browsed along the stalls that were set up on the main street leading through the town. Most of the stuff on the stalls consisted of tawdry souvenirs and a plethora of hash pipes and cigarette cases with marijuana motives stamped on the front. Other smart shops on the street displayed expensive leather purses, coats, and jackets, and I noted some fine jewelry stores. We ducked into one of the shops that sold wonderful pottery and then a shop selling handmade lace and linens. This was the last stop on the cruise, so I did buy some last-minute presents.

D’Alt Vila is accessed through the Portal des las Taules. From the street, the gate is very impressive. The drawbridge is modern, having been built in ‘90s to replace the old one.

It was built exactly to the specifications of the original drawbridge. There are niches alongside the gate that depict various goddesses; Juno is one of them. Above the gates is the coat of arms of Filipe the second and an inscription of the year that the gate was built. It was 1585. The city walls date from the 15th and 16th centuries.

Inside the gate is an inner courtyard. A couple of human statues are performing for a small crowd. I dropped a 1€ into Charlie Chaplin’s box, but he didn’t respond; perhaps he was waiting for a larger crowd. Once we exited the medieval courtyard, we turned left and began our slow climb toward the castle. The streets are all cobbled, and a labyrinth of alleyways runs in all directions. Moorish architecture abounds. Doorways and windows all seem to have the pointed arches. We glimpsed blossom-filled courtyards with lovely fountains behind wrought-iron gates. Most of the homes are white with flat roofs; tiny windows showcased with shutters and pots of flowers adorn entryways. Old ladies clad entirely in black pass by. Some carry baskets filled with produce, and I notice gnarled arthritic hands that have produced a lifetime of meals. Geraniums and bougainvillea spill over courtyard walls, and the whole area is spotless.

We pass the church of Santo Domingo. It is a small church, but it is closed. Another building close by was once a convent; it is now the home of their city hall. We reach the highest point of the old town, and the views from the gun turrets and castle walls are worth the long climb. The cathedral was closed; it is of Gothic architecture and dates to the 10th century. The cathedral was built on top of a mosque, a very common occurrence in this part of Spain.

Close by the cathedral is the Archaeological Museum. We wanted to visit, but as it was closing in 30 minutes, we couldn’t. The contents of the present exhibition cover 3,000 years of history. It is divided into six sections - from the Phoenician, Punic, and Early Roman up to Islamic Medieval times. Entrance to the museum is located in the cathedral square in the Chapel of the Savior, which is now the entrance hall. Just off the reception desk is a small shop selling postcards and books relating to the museum.

We wandered around the top of the castle; little green lizards sunned themselves on the tops of warm rock. All the battlement areas are marked with plaques that give information on various battles. We walked through a long tunnel inside the Castelo Almudaina and watched a brief reenactment of the castle under siege. It was presented as a sound and shadow show. The setting was the guardroom, with very good sound effects of cannon balls and ghostly shadows of plumed soldiers {free admission}. There is very little remaining of the Castelo, only the walls remain.

We walked back downward to the new town. Most of the houses closest to the cathedral and castle are from the 15th century. Walking down the tiny tortuous streets is like stepping back in time. Not a sound can be heard and shutters are closed against the hot sun; it seems idyllic. We pause for a beer on a lovely terrace that overlooks the new town and port. There are flowers everywhere, and we sit and enjoy the view. We leave through the inner courtyard. Charlie Chaplin and the devil have disappeared; in their places couples are cuddling on the stone seats, oblivious to the world.

We take a brief walk along the waterfront and watch the colorful fish. We pass by an older couple from the ship. The man appears to be recovering from a stroke, as he is assisted in his mobility by a quad cane. He walks very slowly, and his wife holds his arm. Later that evening, I speak with the man’s wife. She tells me that her husband was thrown to the ground and robbed of his camera right on the dock as they were returning to the ship. What a sad end to a lovely day.

Archaeological Museum
Dalt Vila, Plaza de la Catedral
Admission 2€, open Monday-Saturday 9am-2pm and 4-6pm