Havana, A Great Time!

Eating fantastic home-cooking in a paladar -- the best places to eat in Cuba - no two paladars are the same but nearly are are fantastic.

Touring the bumpy streets in a bicitaxi - hold onto your hat, it's a roller-coaster ride.

People-watching while enjoying a refreshing mojito at an outdoor cafe in one of the plazas.

The magnificence of the Che Memorial at the Plaza de la Revolucion - it maybe be a busy road junction too but it's a must-see sight in Havana.

An evening stroll along the Malecon dodging the waves - young Habaneros come down here to smooch, drink rum and just hang out. With a backdrop of some of the city's finest but sadly crumbling buildings which have been ravaged by the effects of the sea, this is one of the city's most symbolic sights.

A ride in an original 1940s or 1950s American car - can be costly but a stylish and memorable way to tour the city.

Everyone will be trying to sell you a box but go and see just how Cuban cigars are made at the city centre factory. Not only is it fascinating to watch but the workers are lots of fun and will even let you have a try.

Quick Tips:

Many of Cuba's museums are a disappointment - poorly captioned exhibits or pointless reams of irrelevant stuff in cabinets. Read up first and only choose a couple, or you'll soon regret it! Also check opening times since some attractions may have a lengthy lunch break.

Best Way To Get Around:

In the centre, walking is the only way to get around, but it's fun to take a little yellow Coco-taxi up to the Plaza de la Revolucion. You should be aware though that there have been accidents with Coco taxis and some insurance policies will not pay out if you are involved in an accident when using a Coco taxi.

Buses are always very crowded but its good fun to try them. In Havana, look out for camellos -- a very long bus with curious humps in the middle. They do get extremely crowded however so hold onto your valuables.

Official taxis are plentiful and cheap - usually old Ladas and highly recognisable. The best place to catch one is in front of the Capitol building where the Coco taxis also have a rank.

Hitching is common and expected in Cuba. If you have a hire car you should check the rules since the insurance may be void if you pick up a hitcher. If you want to hitch yourself you should read my free form article giving some useful tips.

Beltran de Santa Cruz is in the heart of old Havana and in a great position for the area's major attractions, as well as paladares, cafés, and bars. The hotel is part of a Cuban chain, but don't let that put you off. Recently refurbished, it was formerly a colonial merchant's house. You enter by a huge wooden door and are in the reception area, beyond which is the beautiful courtyard. In the corner is a bar where you can also opt to eat breakfast, joined by the inquisitive parrots who love a bit of crusty bread. The rooms are on two floors, and all overlook the courtyard. Each room has shuttered doors that can be opened to let in light - ours had no other window and really needed the shutters opens although this limits your privacy.

There were two large beds, a bathroom with a bath, and a lovely wash basin set in an old dresser at the far end of the room. There was a TV with all the US, stations as well as some Cuban ones. A small fridge was very useful for chilling some much-needed water.

Breakfast was very disappointing - some coffee, some weak orange juice, and toast with butter or jam. We got much better breakfasts when staying in casas, so this was a real letdown considering we had paid around 70€ for the room.

Our other gripe was that the air-conditioning was not working and the room was so stifling and airless that we would have left had we not paid in advance by credit card and thought a refund unlikely. We asked for a fan, and the receptionist said that there were none but he would phone the other hotels and see if he could borrow one. He also said he would call out the engineer for the air-conditioning, but he never came. Returning to our room after a night out, the room was horrendously stuffy, so we went back to reception to be told there would be no fan. After some argument about the whole thing, he said we could have his fan (there was no fan in reception to be seen) and that he would bring it to the room, but he had to have it back by 8am (we had not been thinking about such an early call). Reluctantly, we accepted the offer, but were bemused on checking out the next afternoon to find that the fan was used inside the locked store cupboard in which our luggage had been stored after checking out. The precious fan was doing nothing more than blowing air around our rucksacks! Very odd indeed.

So long as the air-conditioning is okay, this is a lovely place to stay: full of character, clean, and comfortable. The okay breakfast was mean, but otherwise it was a lovely way to end our trip to Cuba.

This amazing little paladar has only three tables, so in terms of the rules relating to paladares, this is the genuine article (they must not seat more than 12 diners). This tiny place is right on the street so that you can watch the Habaneros go about their business as you eat, but it's not so open that it's a problem.

The reason for this restaurant's name is that the walls are covered with banknotes from Cuba and all over the world; there's also an interesting bit of wall which is covered with business cards from all over the world.

Food is La Comida Criolla--good, hearty Cuban cuisine. There is a set menu of four choices--fish, pork, omelette (vegetarian), or "gammon steak"--all come with fried plantains, rice and beans, bread, and a super salad (which actually comes dressed--this is a rarity in Cuba). A plate of tropical fruits as a dessert was included in the price.

Beer is available, as well as soft drinks and a limited, but good selection of spirits.

Service is swift and friendly. There were no tables when we arrived, but there is a bar next door, and the owner of the paladar was happy to come and call us when a table became free. A lovely paladar serving some delicious food!

We almost missed this place while taking a leisurely stroll back to our casa after a day's sightseeing. In fact, it was a man sitting in the doorway of his house opposite who suggested we might be looking for a paladar--we made a note of the address and returned the following evening.

This is not one of Havana's more attractive paladars and would be quite difficult to find without recommendation. The dining room is straight off the street and consists of three tables. The decor is not especially remarkable--more shabby chic than anything else--and the owner's family troops through the restaurant to the living quarters at regular intervals.

While the food was also not amazingly spectacular, you could do far worse than choosing La Julia. For a start, there was a "complimentary" soup--a delicious Chinese-style soup with chicken, rice, and spring onions (my veggie partner was sorry to find the chicken--he had been enjoying the soup so far!). Since we had not ordered a soup, we mistakenly thought we were getting a freebie and so did not question it--it appeared on the bill at the end, though it was reasonably priced and, I have to say, one of the tastiest things I ate over the three weeks in Cuba!

My pork main course was also tasty, though the meat itself was perhaps a little tough. My partner chose fish and was presented with a sizeable platter of fish fillets. Rice and beans, a dressed salad (salads in Cuba rarely come dressed!), and fried plantains were all excellent.

Service was great--very friendly and polite--and despite our initial annoyance at being duped over the soup, I would not hesitate to recommend this paladar, one of Havana's cheaper paladars, which serves good, basic "comida criolla".

If you've been in Cuba any great length of time, this may be a godsend, as it offers you a chance to eat something a little bit different from the usual Cuban fare. The restaurant is part of an Islamic cultural centre and is popular with tour groups, for whom there are separate dining areas. You eat in a lovely cool courtyard where the two resident parrots mix with the other tropical birds. However, the menu is limited and some of the dishes you may be familiar with are not prepared as you might usually have them. However, the falafels are passable and the fatoush and bulghur wheat salads are tasty and a welcome change. Drinks are limited—water may be your best option! Service, too, is an improvement on most state-run places.

Plush surroundings of red velvet seats and an elegant bar greet the visitor to El Floridita. This was by far the most sumptuous bar we visited in Havana, with prices to reflect that. This is where Ernest Hemingway came to sip a daiquiri (or three), and they don't let you forget it! There's a bronze statue of him (do the touristy thing and have your pic taken standing beside him) and plenty of photographs on the wall. There's also the chance to buy t-shirts advertising the connection between this place and the author. While drinks are more expensive here, the surroundings make it worthwhile, and even the musicians are better. Complimentary fried plantain chips also help to take the sting out of the prices. Service is swift and attentive, and the red-liveried staff are perhaps the best in Havana—a far cry from the indifferent service you'll get elsewhere. If you're not eating here, take a look behind the red velvet drapes into the rather charming dining room—very 1950s and very evocative! There are usually coach parties here during the day, but for a bar in Habana Vieja, this is surprisingly roomy, and you can sit at the bar or at a table. Whichever you choose, this is an unmissable sight. I almost didn't bother, but I am so glad I did!

Housed somewhat tongue-in-cheek in the stately former presidential palace, the Museum of the Revolution primarily blows the trumpet of Cuba's dictator, Fidel Castro, and the achievements of the revolution. Here history is told according to how the revolutionary Communists see and have seen it, and it’s not difficult to recognise what should be taken with a sizeable pinch of salt. That said, this is a fascinating place to visit, and you should leave at least 2 hours, if not a whole morning or afternoon, to do it justice. If the revolution is your thing, start on the ground floor, where there is a display relating to the fighting and the guerilla tactics, with especially interesting exhibits about Che Guevara. Then go up to the first floor and learn about the achievements Cuba has made in healthcare, education, the arts, farming, and manufacturing since the revolution. There is a lot you could miss out on, but there are lots of little gems dotted around the displays.

If the history of the Spanish rule of the island is of more interest, start on the top floors for exhibits and information on the colonial period, moving right up to the wars of independence at the end of the 19th century, which were led by Jose Marti.

The majority of captions are in English and Spanish, and the staff is mostly here to supervise, not to elaborate with extra information.

Crossing the courtyard to the newer annex, you can see (although not very well since it is virtually hidden under a bizarre glass construction) the Granma - the boat that carried Castro, Guevara, and the other rebels to the coast of southern Cuba, where they disembarked to begin the revolutionary struggle. There is also a display of military vehicles used by leading members of the government when the Americans tried to invade by way of the Bay of Pigs in 1961.

A small gift shop sells books and fairly tawdry souvenirs, and there is an equally uninspiring café selling limited refreshments.

I would recommend this museum to adults and to older teenagers with some interest in the revolution, but would hesitate to recommend to those with younger children. This is a fairly formal museum with no interactive elements, so it can become heavy after a time. I loved it, but I'm fascinated by the revolution.

Situated in the heart of Habana Vieja, close to the cathedral, this is one of the must-visit locations in the city. Made famous because it was a favourite haunt of Ernest Hemingway, the B del M, as it is known, started out as a grocery store which then started to serve mojitos and snacks to thirsty businessmen. If possible, visit later in the afternoon, once all the coach groups have headed back to Varadero; you'll be more likely to get a seat, and it'll be generally more enjoyable. We sat in the first bar area, where you sit at the bar on high stools. A wide variety of drinks are available, including local beers, but most people opt for the mojitos, priced at $4 each. Behind the bar is a framed sign, reputed to have been penned by Hemingway himself, which says, "My daiquiri in El Floridita, my mojito in La Bodeguita"--a nice touch, but word has it that the owner actually made this himself, hoping to capitalise on the Hemingway connection. Whatever the truth, at "off-peak" times, this is a great place to enjoy a long, cool drink, especially after a day pounding the streets of the Old Town.

After you've settled in, a woman comes into the bar with a basket containing a selection of B del M merchandise--T-shirts, ashtrays, mugs, etc., all fairly reasonable values, but if you are short on cash, go for the matches at only 10 cents!

Through the back is another room, this time with tables and chairs, where meals are served--all the usual comida Criolla typical of Cuba. Can't comment on prices or food, as we did not eat here, though there were some locals dining, which would indicate it's probably not bad at all.

The most eye-catching thing about the B del M is the wall as you enter, which is covered with the signatures of previous visitors, famous and not-so-famous. Why not add yours?

On the main street, through the touristy part of Old Havana, this pleasant bar is never short of patrons. During the day, it serves reasonable food at reasonable prices, but don't expect larger portions of quality cuisine--pizzas, sandwiches, and chips, with the occasional fish dishes, are what's on offer here. The pizzas are tasty but very sloppy, with the oil from the cheese running everywhere! Order anything with chips and you'll get about ten fries! However, given the needlessly high prices at other, similar places, you'd be better off here if you want to sit down rather than eat street food.

A band plays here at around 3pm and then again in the evening. They're actually quite good, although they tend to play the same songs as every other bar band in Havana!

Such is the popularity of this place that you may have to share a table with someone in the evenings, but the place has a friendly atmosphere and attentive staff.

The usual array of drinks is on offer, with Cristal beer and the obligatory Cuba Libres being the most popular.

Cafe de Paris is decorated in the typical Cuban style, with simple wooden chairs and tables and a plain wooden bar--no frills here, but it is pleasant and comfortable nonetheless.

Famous for the fact that one of its former guests was Ernest Hemingway (he kept a room here for when he was in town), this hotel with its pink facade attracts a lot of tourists who want to follow the Hemingway trail. You can even see the room in which he stayed (for a small fee). This is still a hotel but the rooftop bar can be visited by non-residents. You go through the smart and chic foyer to the lift past a stylish water feature but that's where the hotel's charms end. The rooftop bar is tatty and unwelcoming. My advice - buy the cheapest drink and catch the tremendous view then go. The toilets were under repair and unusable, so the female attendant said I could use the men's after she'd checked they were empty - I walked straight out - they were awful - what do these toilet attendants do all day except extract money for one piece of toilet paper from tourists? My mojito was rubbish - far too much lime - hardly any rum - loads of ice! The ashtrays weren't emptied despite the fact that it was very windy up there and so ash and cigarette ends were all over the tables and the floor. The waiter didn't come back with our change and looked annoyed when we went to the bar to ask for it. This place could be fantastic; like so many Cuban places, it lets itself down. It wouldn't take much - just for the staff to do what they're meant to!

What a disappointment. We went to this museum for two reasons. Well three really. One is that we felt we'd not done enough museum-wise and felt a bit guilty. We knew this was small so we liked that point. Number two - it was hot and we needed to get into the shade but not another bar. And finally we had read that Che Guevara's Car was there. The opening hours of this place are erratic. You really have to just take a chance. They close for lunch but lunch is not the times advertised outside. The museum opens every day but I would say only go if you are passing and it happens to be open. Entrance is around $3 and is vastly overpriced. Then you have to pay another Dollar or so for photography. Another rip -off - its not until you get in you see that the lighting is terrible and there's not much photographing anyway.

All the exhibits are in one space and are behind a rope. Some cars are stuck behind others and several look like old wrecks. Only a couple of vehicles - vintage fire engines - have captions. The staff follow you closely (like you are going to put one of these heaps of metal in your pocket) and just shrug when you try to ask something. As a result, you wander round for ten minutes looking reverentially at these piles of junk and end up taking photos just because you have spent your Dollar. (If you have a bag, put your camera in it if you think you won't take pics - they charge you in advance and don't ask whether you want to take pics - they just assume). We asked someone where Che Guevara's car was. They just said "Che Guevara? Non!" But as we turned to leave, she called back to us "Castro y Cienfugos", pointing to two old wrecks hiding at the rear of the display, an inch think with dust and obscured by the shadows. Apparently these vehicles had belonged to Fidel Castro and Camille Cienfuegos. And they couldn't even be bothered to display them properly with signs. In all there are between fifteen and twenty-five vehicles displayed here. But it is really a sorry sight. Havana is famed the world over for the old cars which are on its roads; they are spectacular and so well looked after - a real credit to the mechanics and owners. To see the best of Havana's motor vehicles one need look no further than the roads. You'll get a much better display than in this sorry excuse for a museum.

Due to Cuba’s precarious position in the global economy, it should come as no surprise that petrol is a more valued commodity than it is elsewhere. Although Cuba is able to buy some supplies of petrol, it is at a premium and any ways of conserving it and making the most of what is available are championed by the Cuban government. As a result, it is considered wrong to leave empty spaces in your car, if you have one, and except for sensitive military vehicles, all vehicles on government business are obliged to pick up hitchhikers.

All over Cuba, you will see people at the side of the road thumbing a lift. Even when there is a bus service it will probably be late so you may as well see if you can pick up a lift while you’re waiting.

Such is the culture of hitchhiking that at busy locations there is even a hitchhiking marshall to make sure everything goes smoothly. He, or she, is known as an “amarillo” (or “amarilla”) because of the distinctive yellow uniform (amarillo is the Spanish word for yellow) and stands holding a clipboard by the side of the road. Sometimes, the amarillo has an elevated seat to see what traffic is coming. You tell the Amarillo where you want to go and he writes it on his list. Then, as he flags down each passing vehicle with spare seats, he asks the driver where he is going and checks his lists to see who should go in this vehicle; it may not necessarily be for the whole journey, it may only be to the next hitching point but the amarillo knows how best to get people to their destinations.

We once used the services of the amarillo to get us a lift and managed to make our journey in three different vehicles arriving about the same time as the bus we had missed.

Another time, we tried to pick up our own lift without success until a passing policeman took charge of the situation, flagged down the next vehicle, and got us a lift halfway to our destination. We have no idea why it was so hard to get a lift but it proved that help from an official is invaluable, so try to hitch with an amarillo if possible.

On one occasion we were waiting an eternity for a service bus near the Bay of Pigs when a local taxi driver pulled up. He had picked us up from the local crossroads a few days earlier, and got us to squeeze, literally, into his car with four others. It was uncomfortable and it was hot but we got to where we wanted to go; just as well Cubans have little problem with personal space. They just accept being pushed up against strangers and get on with it.

Since most vehicles are bordering on the unroadworthy and the roads aren’t much better, you are unlikely to be able to shout above the noise and strike up a conversation with the driver or your fellow passengers but they will smile, make you feel welcome and probably offer you something to eat. It’s not the best way to meet people in Cuba but it’s certainly a fun way to get from A to B.

Money does not usually change hands but you may wish to at least offer a few Pesos, especially if you have traveled some distance. It is likely to be turned down but it is a nice gesture all the same.

One last piece of advice, since space is at a premium, you may not get a lift if you have big backpacks. Traveling light is the best way to improve your chances of getting a lift.