Jungle and Sea in Belize

A November 2004 trip to Belize City by tlubkin

We learned that this small country, just south of the Yucatan Peninsula, reaped the benefits of bordering on the Caribbean Sea, with the second largest barrier reef in the world and yet an inland area that was exciting to explore.

  • 15 reviews
-Community Baboon Sanctuary
-Belize Zoo
-Cave Tubing
-Mountain Pine Ridge
-Ambergris Caye
-The Blue Hole

Quick Tips:

Renting a car is NOT a big deal. The roads are great as long as you look out for random speed bumps. Driving in Mountain Pine Ridge is pretty bumpy. The country is SAFE. Belize City has nothing to offer.

Best Way To Get Around:

Most of country -- rent a car.
Ambergris Caye -- WALK! Skip the taxis and golf carts polluting the island.

Radisson Fort George Hotel and MarinaBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Radisson Fort George Hotel"

The rooms on the main side were nice (we did pay for the upgrade). We had two beds that were clean and fresh. There was a nice big window with a view of the sea and cable TV. The room had a strong air-conditioning, but it had some quirks. There was a fully stocked bar with snacks to buy, and most importantly, bottled water.

My main complaint was the attitude and friendliness of the place. No one went out of their way to be nice, and you often had to ask a lot for things. We called for a ride from the airport, but the shuttle "was not working," (In reality, a taxi cost $20 versus $10 per person for the shuttle.) We arrived planning to book the next day's trips, but the tour desk was randomly closed for the entire day. The pool on our side was closed (no one told us), and on the other side, it looked kinda dirty and extremely deserted. The dinner menus in our room were never correct, food was generally just mediocre, and phone charges were pure robbery.

The overall mood there was deserted! It was almost like a ghost town; we later learned that we were there on non-cruise ship days. HOWEVER, considering other options in Belize City, it might have been the best. Princess Casino looked big and decent, but was in an area all by itself, whereas Radisson was close to the tourist shops and other restaurants.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 8, 2004

Radisson Fort George Hotel and Marina
2 MARINE PARADE PO BOX 321 Belize City, Belize
011-501-233333

The AguadaBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

I have mixed feelings about this place. It is in the lower price range and probably, compared to most budget places, a good choice. We chose it because we wanted to stay in a hotel in town and have more options for tours, etc. For the few days we spent in Cayo, this was probably a good option. If you go to the "resorts," you are usually stuck there, but with the small hotels, you feel more available to go to eat wherever you like and use the tour guides you like.

So, here are a few things about The Aguada. I think that if you have an open family-style hotel, you should reconsider because of the Rottweiler dogs that wander around the premises without leashes. I never heard a peep out of them or saw them come after me, but it just seemed creepy and uncomfortable.

The other strange part of our stay was the beds. The mattresses have seen better days. They were not all that comfortable, but more disturbingly, my husband woke up with small itchy bites that were definitely NOT mosquito bites and definitely not obtained anywhere else.

Otherwise, the one younger lady that works there is amazingly friendly and helpful, as she gave honest opinions on what to do. The other staff members were so-so.

The rooms were quiet and the bathrooms were sufficient. And most importantly, they have air-conditioning.

There is a pool, but it seemed dirty and no one was ever in it.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 9, 2004

The Aguada
Santa Elena Belize City, Belize

There is a nightly buffet, which we tried on Belizean Cuisine night. It is probably the best deal, with decent options, but it tended to have some quite stale desserts. That was about $12, but it was nice to eat some local rice and fish dishes.

The atmosphere there is weird-very quiet with bad canned music and a huge staff watching your every move. The breakfast buffet was about $8 and had basic eggs, meats, fruits, and good baked goods. Considering your options in Belize City, this place is probably safe to get something decent most nights. The usual menus had an abundance of pasta dishes, "their specialty," but we never really ordered these things.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 8, 2004

St. George Restaurant
Radisson Belize City, Belize

Le Petit CafeBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

This little cafe in the hotel has the same baked goods found on the buffet, so I trust the croissants and breads to be good. We went to check it out, and they have a beautiful spread of deserts -- simply mouthwatering to look at. However, we took one bite out of our cheesecake and decided not to eat the rest -- it was very stale-tasting and had a weird texture. We felt ripped off; I think those deserts sit there forever and then probably end up on the buffet.
  • Member Rating 1 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 8, 2004

Le Petit Cafe
Radisson Fort George Belize City, Belize

The Smokey MermaidBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

This place has a nice atmosphere, kinda junglely outside, with a cabana-like bar. Also lots of ceiling fans under the covered area. Also, one random cat was wandering around, begging.

They specialize in seafood and Caribbean-type foods. The bar drinks were good but low on alcohol. I was a little worried that the "fresh lobster" was too frozen to be served that night. I had some nice and spicy shrimp with rice and beans.

My husband's quote on this place was, "expensive for what it is," but considering this place versus the Radisson restaurant, this place at least has better character.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 9, 2004

The Smokey Mermaid
Across the street from the Radisson Belize City, Belize

The Shell StationBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

It is sad to say, but our best experience in Belize City was this gas station. We stopped there to get snacks for our drive west and finally found the cheap food and very friendly people that we had been promised.

We found the usual candy bars, chips, and drinks (load up on the water) and also little handmade sandwhiches for $1 each -- very tasty, even though we never found out all the ingredients. The cashier was nice and chatted with us. Overall, it was a safe-feeling place (not all of Belize City feels like this), and we got some good deals on our road trip food.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 9, 2004

The Shell Station
Just at the circle, headed for Belmopan Belize City, Belize

BlanceneauxBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Even if you aren't staying at Blancenaux, I recommend a trip there to visit. You need your own car to do this, and it requires a bumpy drive over unpaved roads for about nine miles. We went in the afternoon and had time to walk around the facility and sit beside the river. They seemed pretty open to this, just no jumping in the hot tub (which is the most gorgeous setting I've ever seen for a hot tub). There is a nice bar and deck area, open all day, which had nice tropical beverages.

The dinner location is way romantic. There is an indoor area that has a lodge atmosphere and then an outdoor covered porch that feels like it's in the forest.

The size of the waitstaff was someone overwhelming; we counted three people checking on us during dinner, so we were confused about who to ask for things. Dinner consists of standard pizzas, which are supposed to be the specialty, and other dishes ranging from Belizean food to steak. One highlight was the bread with oil and balsamic vinegar, which was not your standard oil and vinegar--I almost licked the plate. The pizza was great, but not quite spectacular. The crust was perfect, and the sauce was a little plain for my taste, but with fresh-tasting toppings like mushrooms and artichoke hearts. Their Coppola wine went well with the pizza.

But dessert was definitely their specialty. There were only two options, but the torte we had melted in my mouth and had a lovely presentation, as well. A perfect ending.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 23, 2004

Blanceneaux
Mountain Pine Ridge Belize City, Belize

Eva'sBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Eva's is the place to hang out and meet fellow travelers, locals, or tour guides. The atmosphere is what this place is all about. Inside, it appears to be a plain pub with lots of tour guide info, etc, and then there are a few tables outside which are great for people-watching and getting a sense of what San Ignacio is all about. The owner, Bob Jones, runs around checking on people and even stops to talk to most people--in our case, it was 2-3 hours of chatting about everything.

The drinks are good--I had one powerful Panty Ripper and some pretty good Pina Coladas. I thought the food was good for pub grub. I recommend the chili for a meaty and spicy treat, served with yummy fresh corn tortillas. The quesadillas were just good--nothing to write home about.

Anyway, you should not leave Cayo without visiting; you might not be impressed, but it is all about the people and atmosphere. Also, there is a slate-carver there who is really sweet and goes out of his way to please. Support the local artists!

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 23, 2004

Eva's
downtown San Ignacio Belize City, Belize

It is about 1-hour drive from Belize City, and it is easily drivable. The question is, how do you get a tour guide?

We saw a recommendation for Sam Tillet and called the number. We had someone pick us up in Belize City, drive us there, and then another person take us out on the water. To save money, if you have a car, you could probably drive there yourself and do the same, but I would call ahead to have a guide ready. If not, there were two places that might do last-minute guides-Sam Tillets and a birding hotel. You need a guide because you need to go out on the water to see things. The attractions are the birds: herons, egrets, ducks, etc., and also the iguanas and possibly crocodiles.

We had a 2-hour tour around the sanctuary, which looks like a large lake initially. In the back it turns more into a river and winds around through mangroves and trees.

The birds were cool, although herons and egrets are pretty often seen in the U.S. The orange iguanas in the trees were quite interesting.

Our guide was able to tell us about the different trees, like what the bark was used for, etc., and also a little bit about the different birds. He had a keen eye for finding different things.

Take a hat for the sun; our guide had binoculars and bird books.

It was worth going, although it reminded me of time spent in the Everglades, as it was not any more exotic that that.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 8, 2004

Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary
Three miles off Northern Highway Crooked Tree, Belize

This is about 30 minutes outside of Belize City. The most important thing, which I did not realize going in, was that this place is basically in the backyard of a village and is not a huge jungle. The other part is that, as you drive up to this tiny building, outside are a few men making "fly swatters." Each will offer to be your guide, so you do not need to arrange a guide, just show up there and you'll be taken care of.

Take the fly swatter, as this is a better mosquito repellant than the 75% DEET we had. When you see over 50 mosquitoes hanging off your guide's back, you start to panic.

Our assigned guide walked us across the street to a lane beside a house. He showed us the extremely interesting trail of leaf cutter ants. It was surprising, but the knowledge he had of the ants was more than enough to make me glad to be there-it was really cool.

As soon as we reached the trees, I immediately saw the monkeys. Two came swinging down to check us out. They were curious to see us too, but not in that obviously tame way. Our guide left to get some tasty leaves they like to eat, and I was left wondering if they were safe to pet or touch. I did pet the paw while I kept him entranced with my fly swatter. Our guide brought the leaves, which we fed to the interested monkeys. There were a few in the trees above that kept their distance from us. One of which was the alpha male. Our guide had the ability to "howl" at the monkeys and provoke them to howl back to defend their area. The sound was unbelievable coming from these cute soft animals.

We then walked around the rest of the sanctuary for maybe 15 minutes, looking at the plants and learning a lot about medicinal plants, etc.

This was one of the highlights of Belize. Even though you can see Howler Monkeys in the zoo, and you should go to the zoo, this experience is totally different and worth the "fly" bites.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 9, 2004

Community Baboon Sanctuary
Olde Belize River, located 30 miles west of Belize City, off the Northern Highway Belize City, Belize

Tourist VillageBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

A very interesting place. We went there on a non-cruise day, and I think it was closed. We came back another day, and the streets were crowded with people trying to sell taxi service, tours, wood carvings, or hair braiding -- some are annoying but easily deterred.

The "Tourist Village", or whatever it is called, actually requires a check-in to keep the street people from getting in -- and then probably charging high rent. In retrospect, this was the single best place to get stuff in Belize. At the time, we thought it was probably more expensive, but really, most are average deals.

Besides the usual t-shirts, bracelets, the highlights are:
- some awesome wood carvings
- some exquisate granite vases
- various "Mayan" blankets
- an alcohol store with decent prices (although, if you are flying, just wait for the duty-free in the airport for similar prices and more convenience)
- a popular pharmacy where you can get OTC American prescriptions

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 9, 2004

Tourist Village
At the cruise ship docks- a block from Radisson Belize City, Belize

Tourist VillageBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

This was a very interesting place. We went there on a non-cruise day, and I think it was closed. We came back another day, and the streets were crowded with people trying to sell taxi services, tours, wood carvings, and hair braiding-some are annoying, but easily deterred.

The Tourist Village, or whatever it is called, actually requires a check-in to keep the street people from getting in. In retrospect, this was the single best place to get stuff in Belize. At the time we thought it was probably more expensive, but you really get average deals.

Besides the usual T-shirts and bracelets, the highlights are:

- some awesome wood carvings
- some exquisite granite vases
- various "Mayan" blankets
- an alcohol store with decent prices (although if you are flying, just wait for the duty-free shops in the airport for similar prices and more convenience)
- a popular pharmacy where you can get American prescriptions over the counter

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 9, 2004

Tourist Village
At the cruise ship docks- a block from Radisson Belize City, Belize

Mountain Pine RidgeBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

We drove into the Mountain Pine area one afternoon, probably not realizing how bumpy the dirt road would be. Heading up, our first goal was the Green Hills Butterfly Farm. It was a worthwhile stop. The lady running it came out and greeted us, giving us a tour. They raise the butterflies to ship to various places. Among the types was the famous Blue Morpho, and then one really cool, see-through butterfly. The part I liked was an education tour of the different stages. We observed mating, egg laying, caterpillar stages, and then the chrysalises. Very educational and beautiful!

Next, the drive started upwards, and we could see the mountain slopes around us. The dirt was the lovely Georgia red, as promised.

We then stopped at Blanceneaux Lodge to hang out until dinner. The premises there were outstanding. The air is so different -- cooler, with a breeze, and very fresh. The pines are small and puny compared the the northwest US, but they're still lovely. At Blanceneaux, there is a nice stream and water fall with a few trails to walk around. It was hard to remember this was still Belize. Very different from the miles of shrubby mangrove areas of the coast, and different from the lush jungles.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 9, 2004

Mountain Pine Ridge
Cayo Belize City, Belize

Green Mountain Butterfly FarmBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Green Mountain Butteryfly Farm"

This is a short ride from San Ignacio, but up the bumpy, unpaved road of Mountain Pine Ridge. You either need to have your own car or take a tour/taxi ride.

It was smaller than and not as varied as some butterfly houses I've been to, but the tour and information made it my best butterfly experience ever.

There is a local family that breeds and raises several varieties of butterflies and sells them all over the world. The most famous is the Blue Morpho, but they also have some interesting varieties, such as a small transparent-winged wonder.

We showed up without an appointment, walked over, and met the owner/guide. She showed us into her butterfly house and showed us all the stages of butterfly life, from mating to caterpillar to crysalis and hatching. We also discussed plants, food, and behavior. There are plenty of photo opportunities as the butterflies land on you, flutter around, or pose on flowers.

She also has a few tourist souvenirs to sell.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by tlubkin on December 23, 2004

Green Mountain Butterfly Farm
Mountain Pine Ridge Belize City, Belize

About the Writer

tlubkin
tlubkin
Portland, Oregon

Get the Word Out

Share this travel journal beyond IgoUgo with your favorite sharing tools.