Our "home" was on Cloth Fair, so named because of the annual fair held in the area from 1133 to 1855, when Victorian sensibilities were offended by the revelry and the fair was closed. The Hand and Shears Pub on Cloth Fair stands on the location of the original pub from which the Lord Mayor of London opened the fair each year. The pub also served as the location for the court of the fair. If a cloth merchant cut his cloth short or otherwise defrauded buyers, a trial was held and the guilty were punished by being placed in the stocks or whipped.

At the west end of Cloth Fair is West Smithfields, now a circular park/roundabout, where public executions, livestock trading, jousts, and tournaments were held for hundreds of years. William Wallace (Braveheart) was hanged, drawn, and quartered here in 1305, and several hundred Protestants were burned here during Bloody Mary's reign. The meat market still exists at Smithfield Market, a huge ornate building where the workday begins at midnight and the workers are all at "lunch" at 5 am. For that reason, the pubs in this area have special permits to open early, and you can find a great pub breakfast (and a beer) before dawn.

There is some good information about the area on the BBC website. This is a fascinating and seldom-visited area, with reasonably priced hotels, great restaurants, and easy access to the rest of London by Tube, foot, or taxi.

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In London, where space is so precious, our lodgings were palatial. The front door opens onto a small foyer, with an umbrella stand and coat rack. Up one flight of stairs, we found a lovely, well-equipped kitchen, complete with convection oven, toaster, electric kettle, and small refrigerator. On the same floor was a compact bedroom for one, and a combination parlour and dining room. The parlour had a coal fire stove, which was very welcome when we returned home on chilly evenings. The dining room had a bookcase filled with novels by Dickens and Thackery, Samuel Pepys' Diary, and history books about the neighborhood and London.

Up another flights of stairs, we found two modern bathrooms with heated towel racks and large tubs. Only one bath had a shower, but both were large and cheerful. There were also two bedrooms on that floor, a single and a double, both very comfortable.

The Landmark Trust maintains properties all over Great Britain and has a handful in Italy and the United States. All the properties are unique and historical and are beautifully restored. Prices vary throughout the year, and the Thanksgiving period was the least expensive for the London properties. The website gives some basic information, and also allows you to order the Handbook, which contains pictures, descriptions, and floor plans for all the properties. The price of the handbook ($25) is deducted from the price of your first booking.

After enjoying the comfort and privacy of Cloth Fair, I can't imagine staying anywhere else in London.

Our room was small but comfortable, cheerfully decorated, and well appointed. We had Internet access, a small TV, tea/coffeemaker in the room, and a wonderful shower with plenty of hot water and thick towels.

We arrived 4 hours before the check-in time, hoping to just unload our bags and then go out and kill some time walking around the neighborhood. However, the very kind desk clerk allowed us to have a room immediately, and we were able to get some rest before exploring the area that evening.

In the morning we enjoyed the free breakfast buffet with all sorts of pastries, waffles, cereal, yogurt, fresh fruit, tea, and coffee. A morning paper was also complimentary, and the breakfast room was clean and well-maintained. Even with a large breakfast crowd, there was plenty of room to sit and read the paper while planning our day.

The hotel is very near the Old Street Tube station, and the area is full of art galleries, tiny bookstores, and restaurants and bars of all kinds. We enjoyed our short stay here, and it was a very good value.

Our first visit was after a long walk on a chilly day, and we dropped in for something warm to drink. We discovered Bicerin, a rich treat that was almost a meal in itself. Our server brought us each a tray with three small jugs--one of espresso, one of rich cocoa, and another of cream. We mixed up our drinks and eventually cleaned out every jug. We felt too guilty to try that again, but the memory lingers.

On our next visit, we tried two of the specials, a pumpkin risotto and lemon-caper chicken breast. My first bite of the risotto was heavenly, and I cleaned my plate in no time. My friend gave the chicken high praise, and the accompanying bread tin, piled with several varieties of bread and bread sticks, was wonderful.

We visited Carluccios again the next day and stocked up with supplies from the deli and grocery area: fresh pasta sauce, walnut bread, spaghetti, parma ham, panetonne, little walnut/gorgonzola biscuits, luscious tarts, and cakes--we couldn't control ourselves! Luckily, we had a kitchen in our lodging, so we were able to keep everything fresh and enjoy it all for several days.

On our final visit, we tried the ravioli (spinach and ricotta swimming in a butter/sage sauce) and milanese de pollo (breaded chicken breast fried in olive oil), and again we experienced absolute perfection. The ravioli was tender and delicious, and the chicken breast was huge and flavorful.

Carluccios has a fantastic website, which has their full menu and an online store. Sadly, they do not ship outside the UK. There are also several other locations in London and the surrounding areas, including Neal's Yard, St. Albans, and Windsor. Stop in and you'll see why we had such a difficult time eating anywhere else.

I made reservations months in advance on the hotel website and arrived on time at 3:30pm to find a long line, although seating was quick. We were sent to check our wraps before we were seated, although I really didn't want to check anything. But it was obvious that one follows the rules here so that everyone can be processed efficiently.

The Palm Court is lovely, and we settled into a small table surrounded by one chair and a small loveseat. Our reservation had originally been for three people, so we ended up with a little extra room for the two of us. The seating is pretty close, so the space was nice.

Our tea (the Ritz house blend) was wonderful, and the service was friendly and efficient. The food, however, was pretty disappointing. It consisted of the obligatory finger sandwiches (chicken, salmon, egg salad, and watercress/cucumber), scones with clotted cream and jam, and miniature pastries for dessert. The sandwich bread was stale, although the fillings were okay. The scones were good, but the pastries were average at best. All had a mass-produced taste.

While we enjoyed the experience, we just felt a little silly for spending £68 on tea for two when there are so many excellent places to have tea at a much more reasonable price. On our way out, we noticed the lively bar filled with interesting-looking people, and decided that next time, we'll stop by for cocktails instead.

Our server was very helpful and recommended a great South African wine - Springfield Estates Wholeberry Cabernet. I have searched in vain to find it in the US. There were many other interesting selections on the wine menu, and the location is wonderful. Across the street is St. Bartholomew's the Great, the setting for one of the weddings in Four Weddings and a Funeral and for scenes from Shakespeare in Love. The churchyard provides a restful view while sipping one's wine.

We weren't very hungry, so we split a small cheese board. We were presented with a generous selection of five kinds of cheese, walnut bread, biscuits, fresh fruit, and cranberry chutney. It was heavenly with our cabernet. I enjoyed a bowl of pumpkin soup, and my friend raved over her salmon cakes.

Cloth Fair is a magical street, and we had a wonderful time sitting across from the oldest parish church in London (it survived the fire of 1666), enjoying the church bells marking the hours. Since the oldest residence in London is next door (also a survivor of the Great Fire), it is easy to imagine yourself transported back a century or two.

I revisited Betjeman's three times during my most recent visit to London in late November 2005. The wine, food, and ambiance were as wonderful as I remembered, and my time at Betjeman's is the best memory of my trip. I became acquainted with Roland, the manager, and Mark, the chef, who were gracious and kind hosts, and I will always consider them special friends. I hope Mark will cook my first meal in London next year, and that I get to share a glass of Malbec with Roland. Thanks to you both for taking such good care of us, and for the great memories.

Our salesgirl was very helpful and patient when we had a credit card problem and assisted us in finding some wonderful Christmas gifts. A box of four large lavender sachets, wrapped in ribbon and packed in a lovely box, was £26. A box of six assorted guest soaps was only £10. I like to make little gift bags for my friends, and these items were perfect.

Prices aren't cheap, but not ridiculous either. And who can resist shopping where the Queen buys her fragrances? There is a new perfume line called "Bouquet de la Reine," introduced to mark the Golden Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. I loved it, but had to resist. Fortunately, Floris does offer world-wide shipping and has a nice website for browsing.

Even if you can only afford to window shop on Jermyn Street, Floris offers an opportunity to buy some affordable luxuries and enjoy an historic shopping experience.

When we visited, the Christmas Installation had been completed. One roams through the house in silence, observing the rooms and their contents. You begin by entering the house and being given a short explanation of what's going on and how to behave. The house is lit only by fire and candlelight and no pictures (or talking) are allowed.

You begin the tour by visiting the kitchen in the basement. The era is the early 18th century, and there is food in various stages of preparation everywhere, dirty dishes in the sink, the sounds of carts and horses going by on the street outside, and the feeling that you have walked in on the last preparations for the Christmas meal.

On the upper floors, you roam through lovely parlours and bedrooms decorated for Christmas in the style of the early 18th century and then the Victorian age. Bountiful tables of food and drink, gift-wrapped packages, and delightful smells surround you.

Finally, on the top floor, you find yourself in Dickens' London, in the squalid attic flat of a poor family. I almost ran out of there because it was so realistic and bleak.

My description of this experience is unable to convey how interesting and fun this is. The cost is £12 for the Christmas Installation, and reservations are necessary. At other times of the year, the hours and prices vary greatly. Please visit the website for full details, pictures, and information on making reservations.

Once covering a much larger area, the monastery's holdings were diminished during Henry VIII's dissolution of Catholic churches. Now an Anglican/Episcopal church, it has remained active for almost 900 years.

We attended the Advent Sunday service, and it was a beautiful and inspiring experience. The medieval interior has been used in movies such as Shakespeare in Love and Four Weddings and a Funeral. To hear the choir singing, smell the incense, and sit near Rahere's tomb during the service were rare privileges. The rector gave a sermon that was thoughtful, inspiring, and entertaining, and the verger treated us to a tour of the church after the service.

We stayed for 1 week right across the street from St. Bart's and came to love it. The church bells are as old as the church, and we enjoyed hearing them ring every hour. On Sunday evening the church played the bells for Evensong, and it was beautiful. The quiet old churchyard is an oasis of peace in this busy city.

In this ancient part of London, ghost stories are common - St. Bart's is no exception. Rahere is said to make periodic appearances in the church, looking for a long-lost sandal and occasionally preaching a silent sermon in the pulpit. He is also said to appear in patient's rooms at St. Bart's Hospital. And the London Walk entitled "Ghosts of the Old City" visits the churchyard, where a particularly fortunate event occurred many years ago. I'll let you take the tour and discover that story yourself.

Visit the website for pictures, history, and directions to St. Bart's. The church is open to visits by the public, except during services, and a donation of 3 pounds is requested. At 12:30pm on Sundays, a short tour of the church is offered.

The museum is very logically organized and begins with pre-historic England. There is a great deal of information concerning the Roman settlement and occupation of Londinium, which was much more extensive and long-lasting than I had realized. Along with a replica of the interior of a Roman home, one can see a remaining section of the original London Wall. There is also an interesting exhibit with artifacts from the Roman Temple of Mithras.

You move through the medieval period, the Renaissance, and onward through London history. Replica interiors from different eras are very interesting and well-done. The exhibit on the Great Fire of 1666 is particularly compelling.

I plan to return here for a more thorough visit on my next trip. The book shop is very good, and there is a café in the museum for lunch or tea. Near the Barbican and St. Paul tube stations, the museum is easily accessible from anywhere in London.

There has been a Rising Sun Pub in this location for at least 150 years. The bar has two rooms downstairs and more space upstairs for private functions and the lunch crowd. There is a quiz night every Tuesday, and if you get hungry during the hours food is not served, go next door to Betjeman's or down the block to Carluccio's for a great meal.

This was my first pub visit in London, and the host was patient with my questions about the beers and cider available and offered us samples of the various brews. We were made to feel welcome, and the drinks were great and reasonably priced. There are many interesting pubs within a couple of blocks of the Rising Sun, and this would be a great area for a pub crawl.

To find information on the Rising Sun and hundreds of other pubs, visit Beer in the Evening. The site has user reviews, maps, and pictures of pubs all over London and elsewhere. It also has a pub crawl generator and an email notification service for new reviews of pubs you may be interested in visiting.

My favorite find was Ovaltine. I bought four jars because the European version is still the same as it was 40 years ago, while the American formulation has become more and more sugar-laden over time. My friend stocked up on tea and jams.

We visited Boots the Chemist for the magical blister plasters available there. A friend had told me about them, and she was right. Our poor battered feet were ready for anything after we slapped those on, after walking far more than we were accustomed to the first day we arrived.

Boots also has an extensive line of herbal remedies, cosmetics, and any emergency items you forgot to bring with you. The larger locations also have umbrellas, tote bags, postcards, and other items at much more reasonable prices than the more tourist-oriented shops.